/ FRI NIGHT VID: The Franchard Cuisiniere Black Circuit with Nalle Hukkataival
I don't understand why it's such a big deal for someone who boulders 8C+ and maybe 9A to climb 32 small boulders between 6A and 7A+.
I'm pretty sure I've done better than that, and I'm rubbish.
Am I missing something?
*Edit. 6A to 7B+, but still, surely that's an easy day out for him?
*Edit again. "These were done before pads existed, you just stepped off a towel. That's how I wanted to do it..." Next shot he's walking through the forest with two gigantic pads. What?
Isn’t that kind of like saying “I can’t undersatand why climbing Freerider is such a big deal. I redpointed a 7b+ in Kalymnos the other day”
Did you watch the film, or pay any attention to it when you did? Your questions imply that you didn't. Cuisiniere to me is la foret encapsulated, it's rarely busy and very special. This is soul climbing, and it's lovely to see the circuit finally get done in a oner.
Plenty of reasons your post is stupid, but the most obvious is that the hardest problem isn't 7B+ - the circuit finishes with Duel (8A).
Nice to see this one finally available for free. I paid for it when Neil first put it out and it really is an excellent little film that gets across the sense of what he's doing really well along with conveying how hard it is despite how easy Nalle makes it look.
Great video, really inspired me to head back there at some point... it’s been 15 years!
I’m guessing those that don’t understand the difficulty of this have never climbed at Font! It’s not like down at the indoor wall... ;-)
> Plenty of reasons your post is stupid, but the most obvious is that the hardest problem isn't 7B+ - the circuit finishes with Duel (8A++++++)
Fixed that for you :-D
> Great video, really inspired me to head back there at some point... it’s been 15 years!
> I’m guessing those that don’t understand the difficulty of this have never climbed at Font! It’s not like down at the indoor wall... ;-)
I've been to Fontainebleau nineteen times.
> Did you watch the film, or pay any attention to it when you did? Your questions imply that you didn't. Cuisiniere to me is la foret encapsulated, it's rarely busy and very special. This is soul climbing, and it's lovely to see the circuit finally get done in a oner.
Yes, I watched it all.
Nice vid. I see your point, it's not really ground breaking stuff but not every climbing vid has to be. Nothing wrong with a short film, showing some great problems, in one of the best bouldering areas in the world.
I haven't been to Font for 7-8 years but the vid definitely gave me the itch th go back.
Then I’m even more confused!
I wouldn't be surprised if people who climb font 8b couldn't touch Duel... @realfontslabs are something different... I think back in the day Pat Ament said about John Gills problems, "I could grasp the holds but not the problem"... on Duel I think one would be just struggling to grasp the holds!
> Plenty of reasons your post is stupid, but the most obvious is that the hardest problem isn't 7B+ - the circuit finishes with Duel (8A).
If he'd made a statement then maybe the post could be considered "stupid" - but he didn't, he posed a question and received a response. On the basis of there being "no stupid questions" then why beat him up about it?
Lovely video, I'm off for my first proper trip there in couple of weeks with the family even more excited now.
I sort of agree with the poster getting slated. The film perhaps over Eggs the whole "carrying everything you need all by yourself" aspect. Surely that's just normal with bouldering? Your shoes, chalk, food and mats?
I really enjoyed this film. Nice to see an 8C wad also enjoying a circuit with some 6a problems on it too.
Yeah, I thought that was funny - like climbing 30+ blocs up to 8A is no big deal but carting a couple of mats a hundred meters from the car park is an epic test of fitness and determination.
Presumably the actual point of this was that he was climbing with just a couple of mats and no spotter, which makes the highballs a bit more serious than they would have been if he'd had a bunch of mates carrying in enough pads to build a bouncy castle underneath them...
I would suggest you try to complete a circuit if you haven’t already- it sounds easy but is surprisingly tougher I thought . I have tried an easy one and it took about 4 hrs+ my tips were all through and I was a sweaty mess. Finished thrashing around on a f6a. Moving around in between was also a lot of effort.
Great video, god awful music
I mean, yes, they're easy - but flashed (or at least retro-flashed?) all but one of them - and as we all know, Font's a fickle beast.
The black circuit at Cuisiniere has been a notional challenge since before it was retraced in the 90s. Up until Nalle no one had achieved this, it may have been tried by locals although the last problem, Duel 8a, being one of the hardest slab problems in the world may have put them off. Before attempting this final exam any suitors will have climbed 11 x 6a, 4 x 6b, 4 x 6c, 2 x 6c+, 9 x 7a, 2 x 7a+, 3 x 7b, 1 x 7b+. Mosquito Coast 7a and Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin 7b have top rope bolts in place, are very highball and not ones to fall off. The notion that any of the problems are ‘easy’, does no justice to the technical difficulties and physicality of these problems (it’s easy to get stopped by one of the 6a problems if you don’t know ‘the way’. Any doubters should go try and complete the 6a’s in a day! In the 2000s when I was visiting Font regularly, I was trying to pick off the 7a’s and 7b’s on this circuit, suffice to say some of the ‘warm ups’ ended up being sieges. It’s a great spot and was always quiet despite starting so close to the parking. Excalibur 7a is brilliant problem hiding under the noses of the masses who turn left when leaving the car park.
Great video, but the music... jesus.
Where is it actually documented? Bleau.info didn't have it noted, as far as I could see, and my comprehensively unecessary library of Font guides also doesn't mention this circuit. Thus increasing the curiousity/appeal.
Can see some of the obvious classics (Moondance highballs etc.), but wondered if it is mapped anywhere...
Great, thanks. I was on the main Cuisiniere overview.
More fool the guy who says this is no big deal in a day! What a list...
> Any doubters should go try and complete the 6a’s in a day!
Now that sounds like a challenge. I suspect surprisingly few people would be able to do it.
I tried it on a tired 'rest day' once, but was defeated pretty quickly. A really worthwhile challenge in a lovely part of the forest.
Our Friday Night Video this week is a look at a bright young talent in British sport, trad and competition climbing: Jim Pope. Jim's climbing starts in the Lake District and catches up to his present day visit to Norway to sample some of the hardest...