In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: It seems to me this whole debate is largely irrelevant to the vast majority of climbers who have absolutely no problem with the system once they've been climbing more than 5 minutes.
I've never met anyone who had a problem with it, including foreigners once they'd got a few routes under their belt. They're not stupid, if we can cope with B, V and Font bouldering grades, alpine and UIAA grades, Scottish winter and WI grades, French and American rock grades, which many of us do, then I'm sure they can cope with our rock grades and since they make up a tiny fraction of people climbing here they'll just have to cope as far as I'm concerned!
Whilst there will always be a handful of routes which don't fit easily into our dual grade system there will always be some routes which don't fit well with any system and what other system could tell you more about routes with grades like E1 4c or E1 6a than ours?
It seems to me that dual grades are perfectly well suited to the style of climbing in this country, that coupled with an ability to look at the rock and see if there's any gear etc and an ability to read the guidebook for comments such as "strenuous and sustained" or "bold and serious" tell you just about everything you could want to know without totally removing the onsight ethic completely.
If you really do need any more help you might as well abseil inspect it first. Since that's what people climbing at the rarefied grades of E8 and above do anyway it doesn't seem to matter if they struggle to give their latest project a meaningful E grade.
The minute handful of elite climbers for whom E grades don't apparently work can give their routes whatever grade they want until someone good enough comes along and onsights it, then, assuming they are British or have been here long enough to understand our system, they can give it an E grade.
Perhaps instead of 300 punters watching a few hotshots debating why E grades don't work for them, we could reverse it and let them watch 300 punters saying how E grades are just fine!