In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I'm another punter that has had a minor epic on the Long Reach. I took a stance too soon after the 2nd set of overlaps and should have known better than to continue climbing with a skyhook runner...
Having looked back at the proper guide and not our black and white photocopy (pink, light green and white lines all look the same colour in a B&W copy!) it seemed we climbed one of the 5c pitches of Angel to reach the top overlap.
The top overlap was climbed in gathering dusk, and the epic was completed by not having headtorches and groping around in the dark trying to follow the descent path by feel alone. A 120m abseil (2x60m ropes joined) saved the day and we collected the ropes the next day after bivvying by the loch.
With regards to midges, we went at the end of Sept after the first frost and we hardly got bitten at all. Another trip there to kayak in early was a disaster and we ran away to Fort Bill to buy head nets.