UKC

2022 was a phenomenal year for the cutting edge of sport climbing, and we should expect nothing less for the year ahead. It's only February and two new 9b+s have already made headlines, both less than a week apart.

If the past few weeks are any indication of what's to come, you heard it here first – we're going to see another new 9c this year.

But which one, where and by whom? Here are my top 5 predictions…

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Excellent article, thank you 

Psyche inducing!!

Yes, great article. For a piece about hard sport grades, actually very interesting!

There was an old climbing film I forget the name of but it showed Sharma and Dani Andrada starting to work Golpe de Estado. It was amazing to see how hard they worked at it. There was a whole crux section where they struggled to figure out and do ~5 moves in a row. Then they got to the big crux. They showed Sharma trying it myriad of different ways. Andrada said he reckoned Sharma tried that 1 move about 200 times before he stuck it in isolation. Incredible dedication. 

Unless I'm missing something, is this not just common French practice of using "intégral" (complete) to denote extensions that go to the top of the cliff? Or is there some wordplay I'm missing?

Am I the only one that thought the picture was Craig Y Longridge?

( teleported to Torridon)

Is there not one or two more projects left and  R of Biographie at Ceuse ?

Anyone know if Bombe Bleu at Buoux is still considered a project or is it one of those mythical/impossible things that us old men get misty eyed over like Wizard Ridge? This article says it’s possible but doesn’t say if all the moves have been done. I know the French comp coach has also been for a look but come away empty handed. 

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/bombe-bleu-at-buoux-work-in...

Nico Pelorson has been trying it recently, sounds like he was pretty close (I think he said he'd done it form 1 or 2 moves in?).

There might be a 9c in UK.