In reply to astoman:
> "(The professional climbers) love to come" ... because you pay them.
Are they paid just for taking part? Or only if they reach a high point in their category? I would guess that most of them would be well up for a challenge anyway, especially with the claim of the hardest in the world.
> The "hardest project indoor or outdoors". Assuming that your route setters climb 9a+ and not 9b+, how would they know if the rig is 9b+ or harder?
It's a good question. Presumably if they can boulder at reasonable level they could work it out. For instance the crux of La Dura Dura is said to be font 8b+. It's not that high on the route and it probably doesn't have a font 8a+ or 8b leading into it, preceded by a 7c, preceded by a 7b etc.. So I'd imagine it's possible to get an idea that way. But you're right. They'd still have to be pretty good climbers to do that. It'll be interesting to see how well they've done.
Also some of Ondra's projects are 9c (or harder) so hardest project in the world is still quite a big claim.
> Also, if the routes in the gym are comp style, it is normal that they get harder with every move, so for anyone not getting into the 8B region, this route is going to be like many others.
I suppose the idea is that as their climbing improves they get further on the route. Permanent routes can be quite popular (because they're like rock routes). The Schoolroom has a board from the eighties that's still got the same setting.
But I have to wonder about the state of the holds. Are they ever going to be cleaned? It doesn't take that long for indoor holds to become caked with chalk, slippery and unpleasant to use. I think a lot of the old Schoolroom board is wood which isn't as bad as plastic and it's not in a commericial climbing wall.
> And last but not least - if quality of the climb and not marketing had been a concern, you would have hired world class route setters, people like Godoffe or Laporte, and let them use any hold brand they want.
Hmmm maybe. I think if they're very experienced climbers, who climb indoor and out, and climb at a high standard and are professional route setters they might be able to do a pretty decent job. Having had experience climbing with world class climbers will also help. Lot of 'if's' there but it'll be interesting to see how they do.