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/ NEWS: The Quarryman E8 7a by Caroline Ciavaldini

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UKC News - on 11:50 Mon
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has completed the four-pitch Twll Mawr classic The Quarryman E8 7a in the Llanberis slate quarries, North Wales. In April 2016, Caroline completed the renowned Groove' pitch and vowed to return to complete the line in its entirety, which breaks down into an E6, E5, the '8a' Groove and a 7c+ slab to finish.

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Southvillain - on 16:36 Mon
In reply to UKC News:

The more the years pass, the more respect I have for the Dawes. How many other climbers of that era climbed a number of routes that still command such respect/awe?

And watching the men at recent World Cup event (see the link below at 1.51) he came to mind again! National treasure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_ce4hCdJS0

Fruit on 19:19 Mon
In reply to UKC News:

Hot news, person climbs 30 year old route!

nice one Johnny!

Michael Gordon - on 20:08 Mon
In reply to Fruit / UKC:

It's not just any route though. I'd be interested in how many folk have actually freed the whole thing in a single ascent. Have a feeling even Neil Gresham didn't manage the final pitch? And presumably this is the first female ascent(?), which is surely significant.

baron - on 20:29 Mon
In reply to UKC News:

An impressive achievement.

Well done that person!

( I thought that the top pitch was english 7a/b. 'Thought' as in from reading the guidebook not 'thought' as in from when I did it).

Fruit on 20:29 Mon
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I agree, it is personally significant and important if you have sponsors to satisfy. 

Beyond that, in any other field, being 30+ years behind isn’t really news.

My comment really was to congratulate the folks who were so far out in front in terms of skills and ambition. 

Michael Gordon - on 21:53 Mon
In reply to Fruit:

I could be wrong, but I'm not sure Dawes did it all in a single push? (Obviously it's different for the FA anyway) 

Michael Gordon - on 22:05 Mon
In reply to Fruit:

>> in any other field, being 30+ years behind isn’t really news.> 

Thankfully in climbing, certain routes hold an enduring fascination which goes beyond just those who were first to climb them. Hard to say the same about, say, 400m of running track. 

i_a_coops - on 22:47 Mon
In reply to Michael Gordon:

At least 5 people have now done it in a single push, there may be more that I don't know about. Steve McClure was the first in 2011, Johnny definitely never got round to doing it one go. The top pitch crux is very height dependent, it feels more like tech 6c for me but its probably harder for taller people. 

Southvillain - on 09:01 Tue
In reply to Fruit:

> Beyond that, in any other field, being 30+ years behind isn’t really news.

Tell that to Bob Beamon...

 

remus - on 09:57 Tue
In reply to i_a_coops:

So modest! Didn't even mention that you and Robbie are on the list!

Jonas Wiklund - on 21:51 Tue
In reply to Fruit:

> Beyond that, in any other field, being 30+ years behind isn’t really news.

???

The season's best in High Jump was 2.41m in 1985, better than the season's best in 2017 and 2016.

 

TheFasting on 22:07 Tue

I guess we'll just have to stop climbing routes that are 30 years or older then

Arms Cliff - on 22:56 Tue
In reply to TheFasting:

Or do them in better style! 

Robert Durran - on 23:06 Tue
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:

> The season's best in High Jump was 2.41m in 1985, better than the season's best in 2017 and 2016.

And in how many years since 1968 has Bob Beamon's enormous one been bettered?

Poolie - on 00:01 Wed
In reply to UKC News:

Congratulations Caroline Ciavaldini! So glad you enjoyed the route.

bensilvestre - on 07:08 Wed
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Caro getting it done!

I was under the impression that when Steve mac did it, he did it in a day (as in starting working it in the morning, and climbed it in a push by evening). Am I wrong about that?

 

simes303 - on 11:55 Wed
In reply to Southvillain:

> The more the years pass, the more respect I have for the Dawes.

I totally agree. The Quarryman, Indian Face, Slab and Crack, Gaia, and The End of the Affair all in 1986 was a stupendous achievement back then. Even now there can be very few people who have done all of them.

 

The New NickB - on 12:08 Wed
In reply to Robert Durran:

> And in how many years since 1968 has Bob Beamon's enormous one been bettered?

27. World Championship Final Tokyo 1991. That duel between Lewis and Powell was the greatest long jump competition of all time. Powell jumped 8.95, Lewis jumped 8.87 then  a wind assisted 8.91. Beamon’s Record has only been bettered twice in 50 years, both inside an hour, with one not counting for the record books.

planetmarshall on 12:49 Wed
In reply to Southvillain:

> Tell that to Bob Beamon...

Not to take anything away from a magnificent performance, but many records and impressive performances were made that year - at least in part due to the altitude of Mexico City (2,200m above sea level).

i_a_coops - on 09:07 Thu
In reply to bensilvestre:

I think on his first day on he got benighted on the groove pitch - so it took him two days. Still very impressive though!

simes303 - on 13:43 Thu
In reply to simes303:

> I totally agree. The Quarryman, Indian Face, Slab and Crack, Gaia, and The End of the Affair all in 1986 was a stupendous achievement back then. Even now there can be very few people who have done all of them.

Actually, HAS anyone else done all five? I can't think of anyone.

jonathandavey - on 18:12 Thu
In reply to simes303:

IIRC the Indian Face list is:

Dawes, Dixon, Gresham, McLeod, DJ Viper, McHaffie, Ullrich and Muskett.

I really wouldn't be surprised if Caff or Nick Dixon hadn't done them all. A quick google shows Caff has done the Quarryman, and he talks about Gaia and EOTA in a familiar way in this article: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/james_mchaffie's_summer_ticklist_and_interview-5778

Post edited at 18:29
Michael Gordon - on 07:41 Fri
In reply to jonathandavey:

Neil Gresham has certainly done 4 of those (depending if you count failing on the final pitch but doing the groove), maybe not Slab and Crack though. He seemed to have a phase at one point of repeating classic Dawes routes.

Ed Booth - on 07:48 Fri
In reply to simes303:

Nick has done all apart from Quarryman. Only through not trying though. I’m sure he would do quarryman if he tried it. 

GrahamD - on 09:14 Fri
In reply to UKC News:

Great stuff.  She always comes over as very likeable. Its good to see European climbers going for (and succeeding on) quintessentially quirky British style routes.  Doubly so for women to be going for the same objectives as men.

And yes, as a remainer, I know we are also European.....


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