/ VIDEO: Toru Nakajima solos Shomyo Falls in Japan

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
UKC News 03 Oct 2019
Japanese bouldering and trad climbing phenomenon Toru Nakajima recently made the first free solo ascent of Japan's highest waterfall, Shomyo Falls (350m) in Toyama. Sawanobori is the Japanese art of climbing a mountain river to its source, involving scrambling up gullies, ravines and waterfalls. As a sport, sawanobori has been practised for over 100 years, but rivers have long played a crucial role in Japan's mountainous jungle regions as the paths of least resistance for transit. Waterfalls are also sacred places in Japan, believed to be the dwellings of gods. 

Read more
Report
peter.herd 03 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing

Report
hang_about 03 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Deep Waterfall Soloing?

That is seriously bonkers....

Report
Carless 03 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Fine film: and I'd never heard of him

Black Out, E9 6c, Burbage South, first ascent, solo: enormous...

Report
thommi 03 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Can't wait to see him turn his attention to burden... Has it seen a repeat yet?

Report
Duncan Campbell 03 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Legend

Report
MGRT 04 Oct 2019

Fascinating climbing and viewpoint.

Not sure I fancy the "splash crux" very much. 

Report
douwe 04 Oct 2019
In reply to thommi:

I don't think Burden of Dreams has seen a repeat.

Another very strong Japanese boulderer Ryohei Kameyama is aiming for the second ascent also.

I vaguely recall reading Toru and Ryohei have been training on the same Burden simulator on a wall in Kyoto together.

Report
Michael Hood 04 Oct 2019
In reply to MGRT:

I'd seen the previous video on Sawanobori and thought "that's not for me".

So watched this one thinking, ok, bit risky, wet, possibly cold, etc.

Then he did that "splash crux", FM that looked crazy, more like "torrent crux". Difficult to see the actual angle and size of holds but even so, that was a fair bit of water (and not steady flow) that was landing on him.

Report
Hardonicus 04 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Looks about Scottish VS.

Seriously though that was harrowing f*cking watching for anyone who's had the feeling of beeing caught out on an esoteric Lakeland scramble in the damp.

Post edited at 13:09
Report
Olaf Prot 04 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Yeah, but what's he done on...

...oh, hang on, er...

Report
Michael Gordon 04 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Looks horrific! Anyone got any idea of a rough grade for the 'normal' climbing sections?

Report
slab_happy 04 Oct 2019
In reply to Carless:

> Fine film: and I'd never heard of him

> Black Out, E9 6c, Burbage South, first ascent, solo: enormous...

Worth Googling him; he's astonishing.

There's some film from his 2012 visit: https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=28

Report
Southvillain 04 Oct 2019
In reply to MGRT:

> Not sure I fancy the "splash crux" very much. 

At that point I really WAS wondering whether he was shod in ordinary Air Tommies or whether he'd slashed the soles to give himself a bit more grip in the wet (going to the equivalent of F1 `cut slicks' or intermediates, although full wets wouldn't have been out of order!)

Post edited at 15:07
Report
Darron 05 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

On the ‘splash crux’ the water seemed almost malevolent, out to get him. Terrifying.

Report
GrahamD 06 Oct 2019
In reply to Carless:

> Fine film: and I'd never heard of him

The hype machine was being wound up by "Team America" around the time of his visit so his exploits here went more under the radar than they should have  

Report
Dan Arkle 06 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Wonderful film. What a great adventure. 

It's tricky with the translation, but I interpret that he looks back on his grit ascents as risks he would no longer view as acceptable ('young blood'). This is pretty much what I felt at the time. Outrageously audacious ascents by a talented climber. But the sort of thing that could never be sustained for any length of time before coming to serious grief. 

Report

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.