Fascinating climbing and viewpoint.
Not sure I fancy the "splash crux" very much.
I don't think Burden of Dreams has seen a repeat.
Another very strong Japanese boulderer Ryohei Kameyama is aiming for the second ascent also.
I vaguely recall reading Toru and Ryohei have been training on the same Burden simulator on a wall in Kyoto together.
I'd seen the previous video on Sawanobori and thought "that's not for me".
So watched this one thinking, ok, bit risky, wet, possibly cold, etc.
Then he did that "splash crux", FM that looked crazy, more like "torrent crux". Difficult to see the actual angle and size of holds but even so, that was a fair bit of water (and not steady flow) that was landing on him.
Looks about Scottish VS.
Seriously though that was harrowing f*cking watching for anyone who's had the feeling of beeing caught out on an esoteric Lakeland scramble in the damp.
> Not sure I fancy the "splash crux" very much.
At that point I really WAS wondering whether he was shod in ordinary Air Tommies or whether he'd slashed the soles to give himself a bit more grip in the wet (going to the equivalent of F1 `cut slicks' or intermediates, although full wets wouldn't have been out of order!)
> Fine film: and I'd never heard of him
The hype machine was being wound up by "Team America" around the time of his visit so his exploits here went more under the radar than they should have
Wonderful film. What a great adventure.
It's tricky with the translation, but I interpret that he looks back on his grit ascents as risks he would no longer view as acceptable ('young blood'). This is pretty much what I felt at the time. Outrageously audacious ascents by a talented climber. But the sort of thing that could never be sustained for any length of time before coming to serious grief.