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VIDEO: Toru Nakajima solos Shomyo Falls in Japan

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 UKC News 03 Oct 2019
Japanese bouldering and trad climbing phenomenon Toru Nakajima recently made the first free solo ascent of Japan's highest waterfall, Shomyo Falls (350m) in Toyama. Sawanobori is the Japanese art of climbing a mountain river to its source, involving scrambling up gullies, ravines and waterfalls. As a sport, sawanobori has been practised for over 100 years, but rivers have long played a crucial role in Japan's mountainous jungle regions as the paths of least resistance for transit. Waterfalls are also sacred places in Japan, believed to be the dwellings of gods. 

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In reply to UKC News:

Amazing

 hang_about 03 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Deep Waterfall Soloing?

That is seriously bonkers....

 Carless 03 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Fine film: and I'd never heard of him

Black Out, E9 6c, Burbage South, first ascent, solo: enormous...

 thommi 03 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Can't wait to see him turn his attention to burden... Has it seen a repeat yet?

In reply to UKC News:

Legend

 MGRT 04 Oct 2019

Fascinating climbing and viewpoint.

Not sure I fancy the "splash crux" very much. 

 douwe 04 Oct 2019
In reply to thommi:

I don't think Burden of Dreams has seen a repeat.

Another very strong Japanese boulderer Ryohei Kameyama is aiming for the second ascent also.

I vaguely recall reading Toru and Ryohei have been training on the same Burden simulator on a wall in Kyoto together.

In reply to MGRT:

I'd seen the previous video on Sawanobori and thought "that's not for me".

So watched this one thinking, ok, bit risky, wet, possibly cold, etc.

Then he did that "splash crux", FM that looked crazy, more like "torrent crux". Difficult to see the actual angle and size of holds but even so, that was a fair bit of water (and not steady flow) that was landing on him.

 Hardonicus 04 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Looks about Scottish VS.

Seriously though that was harrowing f*cking watching for anyone who's had the feeling of beeing caught out on an esoteric Lakeland scramble in the damp.

Post edited at 13:09
 Olaf Prot 04 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Yeah, but what's he done on...

...oh, hang on, er...

 Michael Gordon 04 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Looks horrific! Anyone got any idea of a rough grade for the 'normal' climbing sections?

 slab_happy 04 Oct 2019
In reply to Carless:

> Fine film: and I'd never heard of him

> Black Out, E9 6c, Burbage South, first ascent, solo: enormous...

Worth Googling him; he's astonishing.

There's some film from his 2012 visit: https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=28

In reply to MGRT:

> Not sure I fancy the "splash crux" very much. 

At that point I really WAS wondering whether he was shod in ordinary Air Tommies or whether he'd slashed the soles to give himself a bit more grip in the wet (going to the equivalent of F1 `cut slicks' or intermediates, although full wets wouldn't have been out of order!)

Post edited at 15:07
 Darron 05 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC News:

On the ‘splash crux’ the water seemed almost malevolent, out to get him. Terrifying.

 GrahamD 06 Oct 2019
In reply to Carless:

> Fine film: and I'd never heard of him

The hype machine was being wound up by "Team America" around the time of his visit so his exploits here went more under the radar than they should have  

In reply to UKC News:

Wonderful film. What a great adventure. 

It's tricky with the translation, but I interpret that he looks back on his grit ascents as risks he would no longer view as acceptable ('young blood'). This is pretty much what I felt at the time. Outrageously audacious ascents by a talented climber. But the sort of thing that could never be sustained for any length of time before coming to serious grief. 


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