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DESTINATION GUIDE: Trad Climbing on Mallorca

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 UKC Articles 16 Oct 2019
Steve on Malovista pitch 4. Mallorca is an island with high limestone mountains and massive sea cliffs. Traditional climbing on Mallorca goes back a very long way. It mostly took place in the mountains, which are like the Eastern Alps on a smaller scale, but unlike the Alps they can offer good rock climbing conditions all the year round. Nowadays it is very difficult to get any information about the traditional climbing and mountaineering on Mallorca. All the modern guidebooks are sport climbing guides and the long history of Mallorcan mountaineering is fast being forgotten - but traditional climbing is where the real adventure lies and it could still have a bright future on Mallorca.

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 Will Hunt 16 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

It's a bit of a relief to see this. When on a family holiday there a few years ago we took a trip to the Formentor lighthouse and the potential was just staggering. We did see a couple of rusted bolts just shy of the top so there must be some climbing already around there, but I couldn't find much record of it anywhere.

 Sean Kelly 16 Oct 2019
In reply to Will Hunt:

Yes, my thoughts as well when I visited  about 25 years ago. It certainly looked like a boat would be required to reach any possible climbs. Interesting to see if  the inland crags have had much trad development.

 TobyA 16 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Is this article sort a of re-run of something I presume Pat must have written for one of the magazines back closer to the time when he did those routes? I did the Cavall Bernat ridge in two halfs on two different trips to Mallorca ,split by quite a few years, but the first time we went, maybe 12 years ago now, I somehow knew that a British team had done routes somewhere on the face below us - so it must have been something I had read in the magazines.

It's an interesting article but it feels a bit "orphaned". Pat and Steve did their routes 15 years ago and then the postscript mentions more trad routes being done by a (Spanish?) team, 5 years ago. Why the article now? Has any other trad climbing been recorded there in the last half a decade?

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