UKC Forums - VIDEO: UKC & Plas-y-Brenin: #12 French Prussiks

VIDEO: UKC & Plas-y-Brenin: #12 French Prussiks

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UKC Articles 29 Feb 2016

In this series on UKClimbing, we have teamed up with Plas-y-Brenin, the National Mountain Sports Centre, to cover a wide range of basic climbing techniques.. We will be explaining everything from putting on harnesses and tying figure of eights, to building belays and leading.

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Dell 29 Feb 2016

In reply to UKC Articles:

He seems to have missed out a vital stage.

GridNorth 29 Feb 2016

In reply to Dell:
Hmm. IMO it would be helpful to demonstrate the knot being tensioned in the downhill direction as the video clearly shows where the belay is and which direction is down. God I must be bored today

Al

Post edited at 13:07

Paul Robertson 29 Feb 2016

In reply to UKC Articles:

It's 'Prusik' with one 's'

Tony the Blade 29 Feb 2016

In reply to GridNorth:

> Hmm. IMO it would be helpful to demonstrate the knot being tensioned in the downhill direction as the video clearly shows where the belay is and which direction is down. God I must be bored today

I agree, my first thought was: He's tying that the wrong way. Then he struggled to load/free it as he had nothing to pull against.

Slow day for me too

Babika 01 Mar 2016

In reply to UKC Articles:
great video - thanks

short, sharp and to the point

Dave Ferguson 02 Mar 2016

In reply to UKC Articles:

6mm prussick on modern skinny ropes?
I would go thinner myself

jon 03 Mar 2016

In reply to Tony the Blade:

> I agree, my first thought was: He's tying that the wrong way.

There is no real right or wrong way to tie this prusik as it will work in both directions.

Rick Graham 03 Mar 2016

In reply to jon:

> There is no real right or wrong way to tie this prusik as it will work in both directions.

True, but the number of wraps, the loop length, the neatness of the wraps, the stiffness of the cord and the relative diameters make a huge difference on how well it works on the ab rope IMHO.

Few clues in the vid on how / where to use the knot,, maybe in another video.

Post edited at 10:46

jon 03 Mar 2016

In reply to Rick Graham:

> True, but the number of wraps, the loop length, the neatness of the wraps, the stiffness of the cord and the relative diameters make a huge difference on how well it works on the ab rope IMHO.

Absolutely. But I've come across folk who don't appreciate the difference between this knot and a klemheist which does have to be tied in the right direction. That was more the thrust of my comment.