In reply to UKC Articles:
I thought this was an interesting piece. I enjoy basic balance and coordination problems at the wall. The more dynamic 3D problems scare me though! I'm worried I'll injure myself, often through hesitation, and I don't have enough experience of them to have learned to predict the speed or force needed.
I guess really I'm too old school for some of these. I still view sport climbing as training for trad (despite doing and enjoying a lot of sport climbing), so indoors come even lower in the list. As such I'm interested in learning to feel in control and deadpoints are about as dynamic as it gets!
I'm fascinated by the complexity of movement on these problems though. I watched James Pearson doing Elder Statesman at Curbar a few years back. I couldn't see what he'd done, he moved so quickly. My friend had a sequence of photos showing the hand movements. I was amazed.
