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SKILLS: Understanding Modern Bouldering Pt. 3: Improving Spatial & Temporal Aspects

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 UKC Articles 13 May 2020

In all of these examples below, regardless of what beta the individual climber chooses, the attempts with their Center of Grav

Climbing coach and movement expert Udo Neumann is producing a UKC series on understanding and practising adaptable skills that you can apply to the dynamic and complex movements becoming popular in indoor bouldering, from IFSC World Cup finals to your local wall. In Part 3/3 Udo looks into some spatial and temporal aspects of modern bouldering and how to improve them.


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 Bob Kemp 15 May 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

This series is fascinating even though I don't have a cat in hell's chance of replicating any of these movements and sequences. What I'd like to see next is how the knowledge here can be translated to 'ordinary punter' level. I suspect many of the points here can be connected to our conventional understanding of climbing technique, and would provide new insights even for the less skilled and atheletic amongst us if this could be articulated.

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L Simoncat 15 May 2020

Great article from Udo Neumann again, thanks for sharing years of experience and scientific dissection of bouldering! Just have a quick question for the author and would be great to have some clarification: 

In the Hip section:   “…movement at the hip and movement at the pelvis. This effects overall coordination between the two areas. Better interaction between hip and pelvis increases balance, coordination, and mobility at the hip joint.”

Traditionally hip point is considered the acetabulofemoral joint (where three pelvic bones meet the femur) that allows multiplanar movement, and hip and pelvic joint are sometimes used interchangeably -  is the author referring to the posterior/lateral aspect of the hip joint as “hip” and anterior/abdominal aspect as “pelvis”?  Or was it meant to refer open/close chain on the hip joint? 

On the side note to the Terminology section, Monkey bar would be the closest word/concept in English that refers to locomotion describes brachiation. 

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 Kevin Woods 15 May 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

A brilliant read and a lot of food for thought. Much deepening of subjects I might have known a bit about, and some stuff I didn't really think about at all. Cheers!

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L udini 15 May 2020
In reply to Bob Kemp:

Bob, as a good starting point for anybody:

drive from your hip a bit more than you usually would. Pull less / hold the hold with less fingers. See if you find something interesting, enjoy!  

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L udini 15 May 2020
In reply to Simoncat: Thanks for clearing that up, I meant posterior/lateral aspect of the hip joint as “hip” and anterior/abdominal aspect as “pelvis” and especially the interaction of them.

Yeah, "Monkey bar", but that still sound like the apparatus and not like a movement to me. Just adopt "Hangeln" from German!

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L Simoncat 18 May 2020
In reply to udini:

Hi Thank you for clarifying that, looking forward to more awesome articles like this! 

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 Bob Kemp 18 May 2020
In reply to udini:

Thanks Udo- I’m looking forward to a chance to experiment. 

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