UKC

The Val di Mello in Italy has become famous internationally over the past decade through the Melloblocco bouldering festival, which takes place every year in early May and brings together thousands of climbers from all over the world. But whether you like getting away from the crowds, hard sport climbing, hiking, trad multi-pitching, big walling or alpine climbing, chances are this beautiful valley has something for you.

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Very nice article to one of my favourite places.

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I've climbed several times there. Oceano Irrazionale is definitely one of the best routes in the western Alps, and the combination Il Risveglio di Kundalini + Luna Nascente, called "KundaLuna", is really really worth it too!

For something easier and shorter but still cool try "Stomaco Peloso + Alba del Nirvana", or "Cunicolo Acuto" (a strange narrow chimney).

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Climbed there in 1992, one of the most beautiful valleys I have ever visited. my wife and I got a cheap flight to Milan and drove " north" with the old Italian rock guide in our sweay hands.

The weather was superb, climbing great and the food fantastic.

Highly recommend the place and nver forgotten the trip.

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Sounds great. Anyone live nearby who might want to do Luna nascente or similar with me in a few weeks? Also anyone know if you can rent boulder mats nearby?

Thanks
Shane

A lovely fresh article - I hope to see more from the same author in the future.

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I have also fallen in love with the valley having spent a couple of Easters there recently and also to went to this year's Melloblocco.
Both Easters we drove via an overnight stop in Chamonix and then through the Mont Blanc tunnel and returned via the Gottado Pass and back through Switzerland and up to Font to break the journey home. The Swiss/Gottado Pass way is cheaper as your Vignette (40euro) is valid for a year and the tunnels are toll free. (mont blanc tunnel being around 55euro one way). Before you head up into Val masino it's worth a 20min excursion towards Sondrio to stock up at the Hypermarkets (and a Decathlon) but it's not necessary as there are local village stores, bakeries there.
There are plenty of no overnight camping signs in the carparks in the valley that seem to be ignored but we have always used Camping sasso remenno. Which is central for the bouldering/ sport climbing. We didn't move the van in ten day as we walked to all the bouldering areas. There is also site in Val Di Mello (jack's camping?) And also on in Val Bagni(closed at Easter)

If you've never been you must add it to your "must visit there sometime" list- the outstanding beauty of the valley, the top quality climbing (of all disciplines) the really friendly locals , the pizza and the coffee make Val Di Mello magical.

Here's a video we made of the bouldering vimeo.com/214564326

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...and of course Val di Mello has the reputation as the place Adrian Berry and Gaz Parry were benighted, and a helicopter tried to rescue them in the morning.