This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Dave MacLeod has released video footage on his blog of his ascent of The Walk of Life, James Pearson's amazing route on the steep slab of Dyer's Lookout on the North Devon coast.
It is a simple video and a record of a great ascent, there was only Dave and Claire MacLeod at the crag, Dave was climbing and Claire belaying: the camera was on a tripod. Thank you for sharing this with us Dave and Claire.
Watch the video at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=01&year=2009#n45566
It is a simple video and a record of a great ascent, there was only Dave and Claire MacLeod at the crag, Dave was climbing and Claire belaying: the camera was on a tripod. Thank you for sharing this with us Dave and Claire.
Watch the video at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=01&year=2009#n45566
In reply to Enty:
Where on the blog or video does it say 'The Walk of Life E9', is someone stirring something up here? It looks as if it is only called 'The Walk of Life' on blog and video clip, even the screenshot on the news item here.
Graeme.
Where on the blog or video does it say 'The Walk of Life E9', is someone stirring something up here? It looks as if it is only called 'The Walk of Life' on blog and video clip, even the screenshot on the news item here.
Graeme.
In reply to Graeme Seggie: Click on the embeded video, it'll take you to Youtube where you'll see the title is TWOL E9.
What a let down on the footage!
Three quarters of the time had passed before he set off and then it was from a million feet away when he was climbing .. .
Shame i was looking forward to that . .
Three quarters of the time had passed before he set off and then it was from a million feet away when he was climbing .. .
Shame i was looking forward to that . .
In reply to justin c:
The explanation for that is given on Dave's blog: it was only he and Claire who were there.
The explanation for that is given on Dave's blog: it was only he and Claire who were there.
In reply to Enty:
'Click on the news item link - it's everywhere.'
That was my point, nowhere in Dave's blog item about the footage, nor on the video itself does it mention the grade. It seems to have been added to the title by the news team on UKC.
Graeme.
'Click on the news item link - it's everywhere.'
That was my point, nowhere in Dave's blog item about the footage, nor on the video itself does it mention the grade. It seems to have been added to the title by the news team on UKC.
Graeme.
In reply to UKC News: Good to see that, he looked very smooth in the close ups when he was on a shunt.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Sorry, I just passed a comment and didn't expect it to get so complicated but...
today on UKC there is a new item calling a video clip 'The Walk of Life E9'. Nowhere on the original blog surfacing this footage does it get called this, nor does it get title as such on the video, so irrespective of what it was graded / re-graded as or blogged about previously, the E9 reference is not the video makers title, is it?
Yikes! Who cares anyway?
Graeme.
Sorry, I just passed a comment and didn't expect it to get so complicated but...
today on UKC there is a new item calling a video clip 'The Walk of Life E9'. Nowhere on the original blog surfacing this footage does it get called this, nor does it get title as such on the video, so irrespective of what it was graded / re-graded as or blogged about previously, the E9 reference is not the video makers title, is it?
Yikes! Who cares anyway?
Graeme.
In reply to UKC News:
well I didn't get to see the whole thing becase our internet connection wasn't keen but i liked the bit after he worked it on a shunt and then he stands around looking tough in his hat giving the impression that he "has somthing big on his mind" (probably weather he wanted a bacon sarnie or a sausage sarne for lunch after he'd sent the route - these things are important and deserve some thought). Made me giggle but you often don't see much of the chap looking worried in climbing vids so it does at least give the impression it was a serious undertaking.
well I didn't get to see the whole thing becase our internet connection wasn't keen but i liked the bit after he worked it on a shunt and then he stands around looking tough in his hat giving the impression that he "has somthing big on his mind" (probably weather he wanted a bacon sarnie or a sausage sarne for lunch after he'd sent the route - these things are important and deserve some thought). Made me giggle but you often don't see much of the chap looking worried in climbing vids so it does at least give the impression it was a serious undertaking.
In reply to Graeme Seggie:
Err, yes it is. Click on the Up arrow/triangle in the bottom left corner of the embedded youtube clip then on the screen icon and you will see that the title of the clip is indeed "Dave MacLeod The Walk Of Life E9".
I look forward to your apology to UKC
> (In reply to Simon Lee)
>
> Sorry, I just passed a comment and didn't expect it to get so complicated but...
>
> today on UKC there is a new item calling a video clip 'The Walk of Life E9'. Nowhere on the original blog surfacing this footage does it get called this, nor does it get title as such on the video
>
> Sorry, I just passed a comment and didn't expect it to get so complicated but...
>
> today on UKC there is a new item calling a video clip 'The Walk of Life E9'. Nowhere on the original blog surfacing this footage does it get called this, nor does it get title as such on the video
Err, yes it is. Click on the Up arrow/triangle in the bottom left corner of the embedded youtube clip then on the screen icon and you will see that the title of the clip is indeed "Dave MacLeod The Walk Of Life E9".
I look forward to your apology to UKC
In reply to Graeme Seggie:
I checked - it was posted on Youtube (presumably by DM) with that title. So its not UKC that are provoctively titling it that which is what you are implying unlerss they posted it on Yourtube for some reason.
I checked - it was posted on Youtube (presumably by DM) with that title. So its not UKC that are provoctively titling it that which is what you are implying unlerss they posted it on Yourtube for some reason.
In reply to Graeme Seggie:
Original title & link....
Dave MacLeod The Walk of Life E9
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lPUeQFtjYO0
lsn
Original title & link....
Dave MacLeod The Walk of Life E9
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lPUeQFtjYO0
lsn
In reply to r0b:
Okay, apologies to UKC and all for boring anyone who read this! I didn't investigate further than the most obvious stuff I read.
Graeme.
Okay, apologies to UKC and all for boring anyone who read this! I didn't investigate further than the most obvious stuff I read.
Graeme.
In reply to UKC News:
Just so you guys know, it can be watched in HD if you go to the youtube site (click twice on the video in the news article)
Just so you guys know, it can be watched in HD if you go to the youtube site (click twice on the video in the news article)
In reply to UKC News:
From Dave's blog:
"...but it's funny to see it started raining halfway up!"
I can't think of many things less hilarious than being on a culm E9, expect perhaps being on a wet one!
Funny? Weird sense of humour!
Cool video though.
From Dave's blog:
"...but it's funny to see it started raining halfway up!"
I can't think of many things less hilarious than being on a culm E9, expect perhaps being on a wet one!
Funny? Weird sense of humour!
Cool video though.
In reply to Adam Moroz:
That's because it started to rain!
> (In reply to UKC News) #
>
> Blimey he shot up that preety quickly!
>
> Blimey he shot up that preety quickly!
That's because it started to rain!
In reply to Adam Moroz: Macleod should have used the Benny Hill tune!
There's no pleasing some people . Not only a great climbing coup but video evidence as well. I thought the video was excellent under the cicumstances -- two people and no entourage. Well done Dave and Claire
In reply to UKC News:
Am I missing some thing here?
1. This is not James Pearson's route is it? He put a debateable 'direct start' onto a route cleaned by Gaz Parry and onsighted by Ian Vickers and Ben Bransby.
2. They did not place the pegs they were already in situ and by all accounts useless so they were left in place.
3. The original route was graded E8.
4. I understood that a direct start to a route, and this is as debatable as his grade, did not give the ascender the right to rename the route.
5. I am not in the least bit surprised that MacLeod did the route because clearly there is no one better than him at the present moment (some as good but not better) nor that he down graded it to E9. He would know better than most it would seem to me because he consistantly an modestly beavers away at that grade. Rather like the originators of the route.
6. No one in the race to hand out the 'oscars' to James Pearson seems to have asked Parry, Vickers or Bransby whose route it is.
7. All of this it seems to me highlights what a bloody daft grading system we have in this country but also the lengths climbers are forced to go to in order to get noticed to get in mags, on the net and thus get sponsored etc. etc.
8. No offence James because clearly you too are a fantastic climber. Its just in this case I believe all of this to be daft.
9. Don't knock the so called 'poor video' as it is evidence, and no more than that, showing MacLeod doing the route. The other issues are more important than a crap video.
10. Bolt it, give it a sport grade, the original name and credit the direct start to Vickers and Bransby. There you go problem solved!
Stan the Man
Am I missing some thing here?
1. This is not James Pearson's route is it? He put a debateable 'direct start' onto a route cleaned by Gaz Parry and onsighted by Ian Vickers and Ben Bransby.
2. They did not place the pegs they were already in situ and by all accounts useless so they were left in place.
3. The original route was graded E8.
4. I understood that a direct start to a route, and this is as debatable as his grade, did not give the ascender the right to rename the route.
5. I am not in the least bit surprised that MacLeod did the route because clearly there is no one better than him at the present moment (some as good but not better) nor that he down graded it to E9. He would know better than most it would seem to me because he consistantly an modestly beavers away at that grade. Rather like the originators of the route.
6. No one in the race to hand out the 'oscars' to James Pearson seems to have asked Parry, Vickers or Bransby whose route it is.
7. All of this it seems to me highlights what a bloody daft grading system we have in this country but also the lengths climbers are forced to go to in order to get noticed to get in mags, on the net and thus get sponsored etc. etc.
8. No offence James because clearly you too are a fantastic climber. Its just in this case I believe all of this to be daft.
9. Don't knock the so called 'poor video' as it is evidence, and no more than that, showing MacLeod doing the route. The other issues are more important than a crap video.
10. Bolt it, give it a sport grade, the original name and credit the direct start to Vickers and Bransby. There you go problem solved!
Stan the Man
In reply to camshron:
'Stan the Man' - Are you drunk??
Have you talked to Ben, Ian or Gaz?
It appears that you are very ill-informed.
'Stan the Man' - Are you drunk??
Have you talked to Ben, Ian or Gaz?
It appears that you are very ill-informed.
In reply to camshron:
A few things, yeah.
The North Devon and Cornwall guide clearly states Vickers pre-practised it. Pearson's blog says Bransby attempted it, doesn't say he completed it. It also says that it was Andy Donson who placed the pegs, which would have been 4 years old at the FA date.
See point above about pegs.
Yup. Not entirely relevant if the direct start is considerable harder though.
Theres a lot of routes been done before which are direct starts and/or finishes to other routes which get new names. Are they all debatable?
Well, based on the evidence, Bransby and Parry seem to have relatively little claim to it? And the direct start can only belong to Pearson, surely? No-one climbed it before him, after all.
Puzzled, unless you are claiming differently, how the direct start ca be credited to two people who don't seem to have climbed it?
AJM
> Am I missing some thing here?
A few things, yeah.
> 1. This is not James Pearson's route is it? He put a debateable 'direct start' onto a route cleaned by Gaz Parry and onsighted by Ian Vickers and Ben Bransby.
The North Devon and Cornwall guide clearly states Vickers pre-practised it. Pearson's blog says Bransby attempted it, doesn't say he completed it. It also says that it was Andy Donson who placed the pegs, which would have been 4 years old at the FA date.
> 2. They did not place the pegs they were already in situ and by all accounts useless so they were left in place.
See point above about pegs.
> 3. The original route was graded E8.
Yup. Not entirely relevant if the direct start is considerable harder though.
> 4. I understood that a direct start to a route, and this is as debatable as his grade, did not give the ascender the right to rename the route.
Theres a lot of routes been done before which are direct starts and/or finishes to other routes which get new names. Are they all debatable?
> 5. I am not in the least bit surprised that MacLeod did the route because clearly there is no one better than him at the present moment (some as good but not better) nor that he down graded it to E9. He would know better than most it would seem to me because he consistantly an modestly beavers away at that grade. Rather like the originators of the route.
> 6. No one in the race to hand out the 'oscars' to James Pearson seems to have asked Parry, Vickers or Bransby whose route it is.
> 6. No one in the race to hand out the 'oscars' to James Pearson seems to have asked Parry, Vickers or Bransby whose route it is.
Well, based on the evidence, Bransby and Parry seem to have relatively little claim to it? And the direct start can only belong to Pearson, surely? No-one climbed it before him, after all.
> 7. All of this it seems to me highlights what a bloody daft grading system we have in this country but also the lengths climbers are forced to go to in order to get noticed to get in mags, on the net and thus get sponsored etc. etc.
> 8. No offence James because clearly you too are a fantastic climber. Its just in this case I believe all of this to be daft.
> 9. Don't knock the so called 'poor video' as it is evidence, and no more than that, showing MacLeod doing the route. The other issues are more important than a crap video.
> 10. Bolt it, give it a sport grade, the original name and credit the direct start to Vickers and Bransby. There you go problem solved!
> 8. No offence James because clearly you too are a fantastic climber. Its just in this case I believe all of this to be daft.
> 9. Don't knock the so called 'poor video' as it is evidence, and no more than that, showing MacLeod doing the route. The other issues are more important than a crap video.
> 10. Bolt it, give it a sport grade, the original name and credit the direct start to Vickers and Bransby. There you go problem solved!
Puzzled, unless you are claiming differently, how the direct start ca be credited to two people who don't seem to have climbed it?
AJM
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM for your comprehensive post. I would also like to add that Vicker's route 'Dyer Straits' starts half way up the wall and was climbed on pre-placed quickdraws.
Thanks AJM for your comprehensive post. I would also like to add that Vicker's route 'Dyer Straits' starts half way up the wall and was climbed on pre-placed quickdraws.
In reply to emily b:
I'm sure many routes which have been lead on fixed gear and subsequently reclimbed with gear removed have been renamed - even without any original climbing. Lundy and Cornwall spring to mind, or freed lines on the Scoop.
WoL is a different line for a big proportion of its distance and climbed in totally different style to Dyer Straits.
I'm sure many routes which have been lead on fixed gear and subsequently reclimbed with gear removed have been renamed - even without any original climbing. Lundy and Cornwall spring to mind, or freed lines on the Scoop.
WoL is a different line for a big proportion of its distance and climbed in totally different style to Dyer Straits.
In reply to UKC News: Wow, never knew I onsighted Dyer Straites, I will have to get my pen out and do some ticking!
I tried the route with Ian and belayed his ascent but I wasn't ready to lead it myself at the time (having only spent the 1 day on it).
I think (regardless of peg removal) James' start adds a considerable amount to the difficulty and quality of line over the original so a new name is expected.
In the past renaming of routes with fixed gear removed has only been done when the fixed gear was seen as unaceptable for the area (ie bolts) so if James had repeated Dyer Straits without the pegs (and without the start) renaming would not have been the norm. I think as times move on pegs on sea cliffs (and anywhere?) are starting to be viewed as pretty bad (At least personally I am dead against them and would like to see them all removed, I think my views on pegs were some of the inspiration for James removing the Dyers pegs) If James had repeated Dyer straits without the pegs I would have been happy for him to have a new grade and lots of glory etc but probably less keen for a rename - Ian did nothing wrong with his ascent at the time (they aren't bolts and he didn't even place them) so his name and ascent shouldn't be removed/forgotten about...
Any how back to child care.
bb
I tried the route with Ian and belayed his ascent but I wasn't ready to lead it myself at the time (having only spent the 1 day on it).
I think (regardless of peg removal) James' start adds a considerable amount to the difficulty and quality of line over the original so a new name is expected.
In the past renaming of routes with fixed gear removed has only been done when the fixed gear was seen as unaceptable for the area (ie bolts) so if James had repeated Dyer Straits without the pegs (and without the start) renaming would not have been the norm. I think as times move on pegs on sea cliffs (and anywhere?) are starting to be viewed as pretty bad (At least personally I am dead against them and would like to see them all removed, I think my views on pegs were some of the inspiration for James removing the Dyers pegs) If James had repeated Dyer straits without the pegs I would have been happy for him to have a new grade and lots of glory etc but probably less keen for a rename - Ian did nothing wrong with his ascent at the time (they aren't bolts and he didn't even place them) so his name and ascent shouldn't be removed/forgotten about...
Any how back to child care.
bb
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Loading Notifications...