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Jon Partridge has made what is thought to be the fourth ascent of Chimaera at High Rocks on the southern sandstone in East Sussex.
The route, a top rope problem, is graded British 7a (approximately Font 7C+).
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61664
In reply to Kid Spatula:
Yes... but the point is surely to claim an ascent you have to do it without a toprope or its not clean. Its just like some kind of headpoint milaki.
Yes... but the point is surely to claim an ascent you have to do it without a toprope or its not clean. Its just like some kind of headpoint milaki.
In reply to UKC News:
No he got to the top. On a southern sandstone climb, which are always toproped.
No he got to the top. On a southern sandstone climb, which are always toproped.
In reply to Quarryboy: Read the description on the main article. On Southern Sandstone you can't lead routes, its either top rope or Solo.
So he did it in the accepted style for that area.
So he did it in the accepted style for that area.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Stop it now. The report is clear. 4th ascent of this top rope problem.
Due to the soft nature of the rock lead climbing is not permitted, meaning all routes must be top roped or soloed.
Maybe one day someone will solo it.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Errm he didn't really do it. He just sort of top roped it.
>
> Errm he didn't really do it. He just sort of top roped it.
Stop it now. The report is clear. 4th ascent of this top rope problem.
Due to the soft nature of the rock lead climbing is not permitted, meaning all routes must be top roped or soloed.
Maybe one day someone will solo it.
In reply to Kid Spatula:
But anywhere else it doesn't count and the only way it would count would be to solo it.
But anywhere else it doesn't count and the only way it would count would be to solo it.
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
But why remove the overall challenge? Sure its free for people to toprope as they wish but surely it can wait for a proper ascent when someone does it in better stile. If you claim that 4 people who top roped it all made ascents then why should anyone bother trying to solo it when that counts just as much.
But why remove the overall challenge? Sure its free for people to toprope as they wish but surely it can wait for a proper ascent when someone does it in better stile. If you claim that 4 people who top roped it all made ascents then why should anyone bother trying to solo it when that counts just as much.
In reply to Quarryboy: As has already been said several times already this is the accepted style in the area. It is not accepted in other areas as leading is a viable form of ascent in other areas.
In reply to remus: Great video. Chimera looks amazing.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Look, it counts OK. It's southern sandstone. Ethics and style do vary. Jon has climbed it clean. Yes a solo would be very impressive and would be the first solo.
> (In reply to Kid Spatula)
>
> But anywhere else it doesn't count and the only way it would count would be to solo it.
>
> But anywhere else it doesn't count and the only way it would count would be to solo it.
Look, it counts OK. It's southern sandstone. Ethics and style do vary. Jon has climbed it clean. Yes a solo would be very impressive and would be the first solo.
In reply to Quarryboy: A solo ascent doesnt count 'just as much', it is clearly a far harder form of ascent and is recognized as such.
In reply to UKC News: Am I missing something, it's Font 7c+? How is that news?
In reply to Quarryboy:
There is a hierarchy of styles. Soloing is more difficult than top roping so whoever did that would be making a more significant ascent.
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC)
>
> But why remove the overall challenge? Sure its free for people to toprope as they wish but surely it can wait for a proper ascent when someone does it in better stile. If you claim that 4 people who top roped it all made ascents then why should anyone bother trying to solo it when that counts just as much.
>
> But why remove the overall challenge? Sure its free for people to toprope as they wish but surely it can wait for a proper ascent when someone does it in better stile. If you claim that 4 people who top roped it all made ascents then why should anyone bother trying to solo it when that counts just as much.
There is a hierarchy of styles. Soloing is more difficult than top roping so whoever did that would be making a more significant ascent.
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
Well done John. It is a significant ascent of climb that has seen very few repeats, none of which in any better style.
Well done John. It is a significant ascent of climb that has seen very few repeats, none of which in any better style.
In reply to ksjs:
It's a famous old problem, it's had few ascents, it is of interest to climbers.
Grade isn't the only factor in deciding what is News.
> (In reply to UKC News) Am I missing something, it's Font 7c+? How is that news?
It's a famous old problem, it's had few ascents, it is of interest to climbers.
Grade isn't the only factor in deciding what is News.
In reply to ksjs:
Exactly my point. What the title should say is "A dude from the British bouldering team toproped a font 7c+"
I'm not saying 7c+ is easy by any means but I'm sure there are probably hundreds of people who have dabbled on some hard grit stone routes (E8's and 9's) But never actually summoned the balls to do them properly despite doing all the moves. But this that isn't considered a great deal.
Exactly my point. What the title should say is "A dude from the British bouldering team toproped a font 7c+"
I'm not saying 7c+ is easy by any means but I'm sure there are probably hundreds of people who have dabbled on some hard grit stone routes (E8's and 9's) But never actually summoned the balls to do them properly despite doing all the moves. But this that isn't considered a great deal.
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
Agree.
While the rest of you squabble, let me be the first to say well done to Jon! Brilliant effort, looks a bizarre sequence!
> (In reply to ksjs)
> [...]
>
> It's a famous old problem, it's had few ascents, it is of interest to climbers.
>
> Grade isn't the only factor in deciding what is News.
> [...]
>
> It's a famous old problem, it's had few ascents, it is of interest to climbers.
>
> Grade isn't the only factor in deciding what is News.
Agree.
While the rest of you squabble, let me be the first to say well done to Jon! Brilliant effort, looks a bizarre sequence!
In reply to Quarryboy:
Come on over to the sandstone sometime and things will become clearer. It is a very odd ethic, but it makes sense for this little corner of the country. The rock really is insanely soft, and soloing is actually a very intimidating proposition as the holds always feel sandy (brushing would just make it worse as the sand grains are released from the rock).
As for the soloing - there is a lot more kudos in a solo ascent, and the routes that haven't yet been soloed are marked in the guidebook.
Also, wasn't the first ascent by Johnny Dawes?
Come on over to the sandstone sometime and things will become clearer. It is a very odd ethic, but it makes sense for this little corner of the country. The rock really is insanely soft, and soloing is actually a very intimidating proposition as the holds always feel sandy (brushing would just make it worse as the sand grains are released from the rock).
As for the soloing - there is a lot more kudos in a solo ascent, and the routes that haven't yet been soloed are marked in the guidebook.
Also, wasn't the first ascent by Johnny Dawes?
In reply to Quarryboy:
http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=27&topic=137&a...
> (In reply to ksjs)
> But never actually summoned the balls to do them properly despite doing all the moves. But this that isn't considered a great deal.
> But never actually summoned the balls to do them properly despite doing all the moves. But this that isn't considered a great deal.
http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=27&topic=137&a...
In reply to UKC News:
Nice use of a song by my old chum Laura Veirs I'll send her the link, she'll like it.
Nice use of a song by my old chum Laura Veirs I'll send her the link, she'll like it.
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
If it's old and famous but 'only' 7c+, how come it's had so few ascents? Not being an arse here, I'm genuinely interested.
Anyway, well done to Jon, it's easy to piss around about what's headline news and what isn't and lose sight of the fact that most of us are unlikely ever to climb at that standard on a top rope or otherwise...
> (In reply to ksjs)
> [...]
>
> It's a famous old problem, it's had few ascents, it is of interest to climbers.
> [...]
>
> It's a famous old problem, it's had few ascents, it is of interest to climbers.
If it's old and famous but 'only' 7c+, how come it's had so few ascents? Not being an arse here, I'm genuinely interested.
Anyway, well done to Jon, it's easy to piss around about what's headline news and what isn't and lose sight of the fact that most of us are unlikely ever to climb at that standard on a top rope or otherwise...
Maybe we should bolt it?.........
I'll get my coat.....
I'll get my coat.....
In reply to Monk:
The first ascent was by Dave Turner at or around the time of the publication of his 1989 CC Southern Sandstone Guide. It was something like 18 years before it was repeated by, I think, James Pearson and then by Tony Musselbrook. It's graded 7a.
The first ascent was by Dave Turner at or around the time of the publication of his 1989 CC Southern Sandstone Guide. It was something like 18 years before it was repeated by, I think, James Pearson and then by Tony Musselbrook. It's graded 7a.
In reply to Ramblin dave:
7c+ in a less fashionable area with what looks like a pretty odd sequence?
7c+ in a less fashionable area with what looks like a pretty odd sequence?
In reply to Ramblin dave: Because it's very technical requiring unusual technique I guess. Many strong people have tried it. Johnny Dawes tried and failed I believe. It also needs to be dry for at least a week before hand for it to dry out. I was watching him attempt it on Sunday before he did it.
Did he top out (not shown in the video)? The top was quite wet and was making it the most difficult part.
Did he top out (not shown in the video)? The top was quite wet and was making it the most difficult part.
In reply to Quarryboy:
I should probably just shut up since Mick and others have said all that can usefully be said in response to this kind of immature and arrogant dogmatism. But I would like to point out that this route is located within a region where 10m+ ppl live, some of whom are climbers (hear hear) and where there's not much else to climb. Trust me, there are plenty of ppl who would love to do this, in the SE and beyond. Yet only 4 have managed, and it's really not about ball size. A closer look at the moves in the vid should have given you an idea why no one has done it "properly" (your word), but if you need further convincing then I invite you over for the biggest sandbagging you'll ever experience. On a 6a. On toprope. 0% friction, 100% ethical.
> (In reply to ksjs)
> I'm sure there are probably hundreds of people who have dabbled on some hard grit stone routes (E8's and 9's) But never actually summoned the balls to do them properly despite doing all the moves.
> I'm sure there are probably hundreds of people who have dabbled on some hard grit stone routes (E8's and 9's) But never actually summoned the balls to do them properly despite doing all the moves.
I should probably just shut up since Mick and others have said all that can usefully be said in response to this kind of immature and arrogant dogmatism. But I would like to point out that this route is located within a region where 10m+ ppl live, some of whom are climbers (hear hear) and where there's not much else to climb. Trust me, there are plenty of ppl who would love to do this, in the SE and beyond. Yet only 4 have managed, and it's really not about ball size. A closer look at the moves in the vid should have given you an idea why no one has done it "properly" (your word), but if you need further convincing then I invite you over for the biggest sandbagging you'll ever experience. On a 6a. On toprope. 0% friction, 100% ethical.
In reply to UKC News: Jon Partridge is my hero.
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC: Fair enough but it's really only of note to local climbers surely?
In reply to Ramblin dave: Last post on this subject: good effort to Jon but let's be clear, and this is not to say it's easy, 7c+ is entirely routine.
In reply to ksjs:
Everyone is local in the UK! We are one big happy climbing family.
Rare repeats of regional test pieces are of interest to people in that area, and others..
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC) Fair enough but it's really only of note to local climbers surely?
Everyone is local in the UK! We are one big happy climbing family.
Rare repeats of regional test pieces are of interest to people in that area, and others..
In reply to ksjs: Reading Gritstoner's post above, it does sound like I'm totally jumping the gun and that this is 'odd' 7c+ which has had various suitors yet yields only to a gifted few?
In reply to ksjs: The way Font 7c+ is mentioned in the article is a bit misleading in my opinion. Chimaera is not a boulder problem. I believe the 7c+ only refers to the crux section up the groove. Concentrate more on the fact that it's given 7A English tech grade.
In reply to UKC News: Good skills to Jon, it's almost inspired me to go back to the sandstone for a trip, where it all started so many years ago!
In reply to Quarryboy:
"If you claim that 4 people who top roped it all made ascents then why should anyone bother trying to solo it when that counts just as much. "
This comment kinds bugged me...
Do you climb to compare your ascents to others? I was under the impression that most people climb for the enjoyment? Maybe your different? Should I not bother to lead a route after someone has soloed it? Are you suggesting that it should in some way influence my decision to climb something I want to? Why should other peoples actions have any influence on what someone else climbs or how they climb it. I feel sorry for you if this is the away you approach things.
"If you claim that 4 people who top roped it all made ascents then why should anyone bother trying to solo it when that counts just as much. "
This comment kinds bugged me...
Do you climb to compare your ascents to others? I was under the impression that most people climb for the enjoyment? Maybe your different? Should I not bother to lead a route after someone has soloed it? Are you suggesting that it should in some way influence my decision to climb something I want to? Why should other peoples actions have any influence on what someone else climbs or how they climb it. I feel sorry for you if this is the away you approach things.
In reply to MattG:
I get that feeling every 3 years or so. A quick visit and i'm unequivocally reminded of why i don't climb down there, which lasts me until my memory fades in about another 3 year period and i do my next customary 'refresher'...
Very good effort on the climb!
> (In reply to UKC News) Good skills to Jon, it's almost inspired me to go back to the sandstone for a trip, where it all started so many years ago!
I get that feeling every 3 years or so. A quick visit and i'm unequivocally reminded of why i don't climb down there, which lasts me until my memory fades in about another 3 year period and i do my next customary 'refresher'...
Very good effort on the climb!
In reply to UKC News:
I believe this has a direct start that goes at F8a.
Good work Johnny. I've only walked under it and it looks hard as nails, taking into consideration that HR grades are hard enuff as it is.
I believe this has a direct start that goes at F8a.
Good work Johnny. I've only walked under it and it looks hard as nails, taking into consideration that HR grades are hard enuff as it is.
In reply to Colm_Shannon:
No, but my point is if you value that as a proper ascent then there is no reason why anyone else would or should bother to go and try to solo it.
And if it makes you feel better then I I will tell you that I do toprope and second stuff as well. However I wouldn't regard it as the full experience of the route.
No, but my point is if you value that as a proper ascent then there is no reason why anyone else would or should bother to go and try to solo it.
And if it makes you feel better then I I will tell you that I do toprope and second stuff as well. However I wouldn't regard it as the full experience of the route.
In reply to Quarryboy: mabye Jon Partridge wanted to do some climbing that was hard for him, stared in a really well produced video and happened to do a route which is of intrest to some people.
I doubt he cares if you think its a proper ascent or not as all he is doing is climbing rocks, in a way he wants to.
If somebody reports it as news (i feel rightly but its an editorial descition,) then you can read the news or not. Its still news. I dont care that
I don't really have an opinion that P&D Marsh have launced the first in a series of new models related to materials handling. (http://www.model-railways-live.co.uk/News/P_and_D_Marsh_Models/)
it is still news to somebody, and it has no effect on me one way or the other.
If you don't like the news you read you can read differnt news. Or write your own...
I doubt he cares if you think its a proper ascent or not as all he is doing is climbing rocks, in a way he wants to.
If somebody reports it as news (i feel rightly but its an editorial descition,) then you can read the news or not. Its still news. I dont care that
I don't really have an opinion that P&D Marsh have launced the first in a series of new models related to materials handling. (http://www.model-railways-live.co.uk/News/P_and_D_Marsh_Models/)
it is still news to somebody, and it has no effect on me one way or the other.
If you don't like the news you read you can read differnt news. Or write your own...
I live miles away from that but I've seen the route. It's really inspiring and I'm definitely interested in seeing someone climb it. It's the best tick on the best crag in the region.
In reply to Quarryboy:
People value the first ground up ascents of headpointed routes (see those articles about a route getting a Fr + PG/R/X until it gets a ground-up, Gravediggers say).
People value the first flashes or onsights of previously headpointed routes (if the first flash of Gaia or first onsight of End of the Affair or whatever was not news then why do I think I know who did them, despite it not being in any way my local scene).
People value the first onsights of notable sport testpieces (as the reporting of last year's Ondra ticking at Malham showed, first onsights of some of those Malham testpieces did make the news).
I see very few people arguing that if you recognise the value of the head/redpoint there's no value in trying the onsight/flash, do you?
In the same way, first solos of notable southern sandstone routes are valued. The local ethic says that due to the nature of the rock the accepted style of ascent is a toprope or better a solo, in the same way that the local ethic says an acceptable style in which to ascend a sport route at Malham is a redpoint, or better a flash or better still an onsight.
And do you really think that the first solo of a Font 7c+ what looks like a reasonable distance off the ground with the kind of moves that could leave you taking a completely uncontrolled fall wouldn't be news - it sounds far more than an E8 solo to me - isn't Equilibrium a badly protected/unprotected boulder problem in the sky in that sort of region of difficulty)
People value the first ground up ascents of headpointed routes (see those articles about a route getting a Fr + PG/R/X until it gets a ground-up, Gravediggers say).
People value the first flashes or onsights of previously headpointed routes (if the first flash of Gaia or first onsight of End of the Affair or whatever was not news then why do I think I know who did them, despite it not being in any way my local scene).
People value the first onsights of notable sport testpieces (as the reporting of last year's Ondra ticking at Malham showed, first onsights of some of those Malham testpieces did make the news).
I see very few people arguing that if you recognise the value of the head/redpoint there's no value in trying the onsight/flash, do you?
In the same way, first solos of notable southern sandstone routes are valued. The local ethic says that due to the nature of the rock the accepted style of ascent is a toprope or better a solo, in the same way that the local ethic says an acceptable style in which to ascend a sport route at Malham is a redpoint, or better a flash or better still an onsight.
And do you really think that the first solo of a Font 7c+ what looks like a reasonable distance off the ground with the kind of moves that could leave you taking a completely uncontrolled fall wouldn't be news - it sounds far more than an E8 solo to me - isn't Equilibrium a badly protected/unprotected boulder problem in the sky in that sort of region of difficulty)
In reply to Quarryboy:
Never forget that you're not climbing against other people. You're climbing for the sake of your own personal achievements. I think it's quite sad that some really enthusiastic young climbers get so worked up in the numbers game so soon.
But that aside, on this particular solo: as AJM has just said, if your fingers zip while you're in that horizontal position you will probably rotate further as you fall giving you a nice opportunity to break your neck upon impact. I'm not sure that I'd encourage people to put themselves in that position on solo, but for the record I would freak out in awe if they succeeded.
> (In reply to Colm_Shannon)
>
> No, but my point is if you value that as a proper ascent then there is no reason why anyone else would or should bother to go and try to solo it.
>
> No, but my point is if you value that as a proper ascent then there is no reason why anyone else would or should bother to go and try to solo it.
Never forget that you're not climbing against other people. You're climbing for the sake of your own personal achievements. I think it's quite sad that some really enthusiastic young climbers get so worked up in the numbers game so soon.
But that aside, on this particular solo: as AJM has just said, if your fingers zip while you're in that horizontal position you will probably rotate further as you fall giving you a nice opportunity to break your neck upon impact. I'm not sure that I'd encourage people to put themselves in that position on solo, but for the record I would freak out in awe if they succeeded.
In reply to UKC News: It was talked about attempting to ground up it with pads, several things stopped us though.... Lack of pads mainly. Oh, and the height, plus the difficulty, and the heat. Did I mention it's hard?
In reply to Monk: Dave Turner made the first ascent. one of the best climbers to emerge from southern sandstone -one of yours if you're from that neck of the woods.
In reply to UKC News
Great, thanks for posting this, I live miles away and have only been to High rocks once years ago, I remember this inspiring feature and its history of repelling some very talented climbers. All credit to Mr Partridge for unlocking that sequence.
Jb.
Great, thanks for posting this, I live miles away and have only been to High rocks once years ago, I remember this inspiring feature and its history of repelling some very talented climbers. All credit to Mr Partridge for unlocking that sequence.
Jb.
In reply to UKC News:
If nothing else, this video shows very well the sheer quality of the climbing to be found on SE sandstone that is so much derided by ignoramuses.
If nothing else, this video shows very well the sheer quality of the climbing to be found on SE sandstone that is so much derided by ignoramuses.
In reply to ksjs:
Or perhaps simply, people who love climbing in all its various forms and appreciate that what they know best isn't neccessarily all there is to offer. Let's not get blinkered boys. all experience is good experience but more importantly, well done Mr Partridge............... deeply inspiring
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC) Fair enough but it's really only of note to local climbers surely?
Or perhaps simply, people who love climbing in all its various forms and appreciate that what they know best isn't neccessarily all there is to offer. Let's not get blinkered boys. all experience is good experience but more importantly, well done Mr Partridge............... deeply inspiring
In reply to UKC News:
btw, did you note the length of Mr P's legs..... that doesn't hurt on sandstone. Tony Musselbrook is also quite tall. Anyone know about Dave Turner?
I think James Pearson is quite tall looking at his pic in the SS guidebook climbing 'Change in the Weather' at High Rocks Annexe across the road. Just interested, cause if only 6ft + climbers can do Chimaera my dreams are shot down big time ;0)
btw, did you note the length of Mr P's legs..... that doesn't hurt on sandstone. Tony Musselbrook is also quite tall. Anyone know about Dave Turner?
I think James Pearson is quite tall looking at his pic in the SS guidebook climbing 'Change in the Weather' at High Rocks Annexe across the road. Just interested, cause if only 6ft + climbers can do Chimaera my dreams are shot down big time ;0)
In reply to Fishmate: Tony isn't tall, and Jon is under 6ft. I think it helps to be flexible as opposed to being tall
In reply to NJBrown:
cheers for the steer NJB. My comments were a bit tongue in cheek, especially being a relative newbie, but that's good to hear. I've walked many times past the route which looks amazing, but never entered HR given that it's pretty hardcore. I've soloed a couple of bits and pieces at The Continuation Wall and The Annexe and they have 3a Chimneys that seasoned guys struggle up (Starboard Chimney, what's all that about?). Puts Jon's effort in perspective.
cheers for the steer NJB. My comments were a bit tongue in cheek, especially being a relative newbie, but that's good to hear. I've walked many times past the route which looks amazing, but never entered HR given that it's pretty hardcore. I've soloed a couple of bits and pieces at The Continuation Wall and The Annexe and they have 3a Chimneys that seasoned guys struggle up (Starboard Chimney, what's all that about?). Puts Jon's effort in perspective.
In reply to UKC News:
Going to be honest this is about the least inspiring news Ive ever read.
Also climbing in the videos looked mediocre and not that interesting. If you want to climb then there are so many better places in the UK, why bother climbing on this crumbling rubbish?
Going to be honest this is about the least inspiring news Ive ever read.
Also climbing in the videos looked mediocre and not that interesting. If you want to climb then there are so many better places in the UK, why bother climbing on this crumbling rubbish?
In reply to a13x: I'm sure Jon definitely had your inspiration in mind when he was climbing it.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Ignorami?
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> that is so much derided by ignoramuses.
>
> that is so much derided by ignoramuses.
Ignorami?
In reply to gritstoner:
"Never forget that you're not climbing against other people."
This is naive.
"Never forget that you're not climbing against other people."
This is naive.
Who cares if he climbed it on a top rope???
As long as he enjoyed himself and had a good laugh.
Good effort mate, looks nails.
As long as he enjoyed himself and had a good laugh.
Good effort mate, looks nails.
In reply to Quarryboy: The ethics are to top rope or solo simples.
One year I could
onsight E2 in the peak
Repeat E3 on slate
Work a 7a to completion at Craggy Island (hard graded indoor wall)
But and an effin big but (I hasten to add)
I failed on 6a's on Southern Sandstone (SS).
You cannot move your hand on a hold for 'balling' up grains under your fingers/hand and you fall off
You cannot move your foot placement for "balling" up grains under your feet and you fall off.
When the balling occurs you are pretty much on the equivalent of slicks on ice.
The sandstone stuff is full of friction based slopers too - remember the "balling" issue when you read that last bit.
Stop questioning the ethics of the top rope for the moment. Dispell belief and go and try it. I know of many people that use SS to make themselves climb harder on grit/other sandstone/font/slate/granite/limestone because these types of rock are so much more forgiving.
I also know and sometimes have watched rock jocks quite literally shit themselves when trying it for the first time and then leaving thoroughly spanked.
One year I could
onsight E2 in the peak
Repeat E3 on slate
Work a 7a to completion at Craggy Island (hard graded indoor wall)
But and an effin big but (I hasten to add)
I failed on 6a's on Southern Sandstone (SS).
You cannot move your hand on a hold for 'balling' up grains under your fingers/hand and you fall off
You cannot move your foot placement for "balling" up grains under your feet and you fall off.
When the balling occurs you are pretty much on the equivalent of slicks on ice.
The sandstone stuff is full of friction based slopers too - remember the "balling" issue when you read that last bit.
Stop questioning the ethics of the top rope for the moment. Dispell belief and go and try it. I know of many people that use SS to make themselves climb harder on grit/other sandstone/font/slate/granite/limestone because these types of rock are so much more forgiving.
I also know and sometimes have watched rock jocks quite literally shit themselves when trying it for the first time and then leaving thoroughly spanked.
In reply to UKC News: oh and good effort Jon
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat: I like you !
and no way is 'Honeycomb' or whatever you call that route 6b+- much harder
and no way is 'Honeycomb' or whatever you call that route 6b+- much harder
In reply to tonanf:
I'm sorry to inform you - I'm straight and married but glad you are comfortable.
>
I'm not questioning the grade - like for like it is correct. The softness of the rock makes you change your climbing style to complete routes. Precision is a good thing!
> (In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat) I like you !
I'm sorry to inform you - I'm straight and married but glad you are comfortable.
>
> and no way is 'Honeycomb' or whatever you call that route 6b+- much harder
I'm not questioning the grade - like for like it is correct. The softness of the rock makes you change your climbing style to complete routes. Precision is a good thing!
In reply to UKC News:
Noticed he's using chalk, that used to be a no no for SS, have things changed?
Noticed he's using chalk, that used to be a no no for SS, have things changed?
In reply to UKC News:
Nice video, but I'm a bit puzzled by the grades. I can't work out on what system CrossTown Traffic is being given 7b and Honeycomb 6b+. Not that it matters, obviously, but anyone like to enlighten me?
jcm
Nice video, but I'm a bit puzzled by the grades. I can't work out on what system CrossTown Traffic is being given 7b and Honeycomb 6b+. Not that it matters, obviously, but anyone like to enlighten me?
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Font
In reply to PaleMan:
tis ok if used sparingly. I don't think many hands get to touch that route either.
tis ok if used sparingly. I don't think many hands get to touch that route either.
In reply to UKC News: There are a lot of pompous knobheads out there... well done mate! there isn't much down here in the SE, but you are certainly pushing what little we have!
In reply to RichieBizzle: I really miss the sandstone. Spent many an enjoyable evening on it when I lived in TW and I still really miss it even though I now live in Lancs. Pretty much everyone who slags it off has never climbed on it, or if they have they missed out on the many quality routes. There is plenty of choss for sure, but the good stuff is very, very good. Lovely, featured, honeycombed SS. In the right conditions it is great for climbing on. Nice effort Jon, that route has spat out many a very strong star. And would do the same with every single one of the spouting doubters evident here. Live and let live.
In reply to Escher: Live in TW now but moving to Epsom in the coming weeks, seems things are getting progressively worse!
In reply to victim of mathematics:
No, ignoramuses. O.E.D. Anglicized plurals of latin words ending in -us are usually spelt -uses. Cp. campuses.
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
> [...]
>
> Ignorami?
> [...]
>
> Ignorami?
No, ignoramuses. O.E.D. Anglicized plurals of latin words ending in -us are usually spelt -uses. Cp. campuses.
In reply to UKC News: I thought the video actually made southern sandstone look ok which is a pretty impressive feat in itself!
But as an aside Jon's ascent of Chimaera is slightly marred as he used a bouldering pad as well as the top rope - tut tut!
But as an aside Jon's ascent of Chimaera is slightly marred as he used a bouldering pad as well as the top rope - tut tut!
In reply to Quarryboy:
With respect, but you seem to be completely misunderstanding the styles versus ethics in various regions.
Taking your perspective as an absolute, you should question all climbs on bolted routes and expect people to (re)climb it using their own protection.
Why? Don't bolts remove the overall challenge?
Of course they do remove but only one aspect of the challenge. It is psychological aspect, leaving the physical strength requirement intact.
In Southern Sandstone, the physical strength is the major aspect of the climbs and top-rope does not knock off anything of the seriousness of climbs and is perfectly valid there.
By the way, if you are being die hard, you could extend your objections to crash pads (sometimes in tall stacks) in HP or solo or hi-ball attempts (e.g. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61066 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61488)
Don't be silly!
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC)
>
> But why remove the overall challenge? Sure its free for people to toprope
> as they wish but surely it can wait for a proper ascent when
> someone does it in better stile.
>
> But why remove the overall challenge? Sure its free for people to toprope
> as they wish but surely it can wait for a proper ascent when
> someone does it in better stile.
With respect, but you seem to be completely misunderstanding the styles versus ethics in various regions.
Taking your perspective as an absolute, you should question all climbs on bolted routes and expect people to (re)climb it using their own protection.
Why? Don't bolts remove the overall challenge?
Of course they do remove but only one aspect of the challenge. It is psychological aspect, leaving the physical strength requirement intact.
In Southern Sandstone, the physical strength is the major aspect of the climbs and top-rope does not knock off anything of the seriousness of climbs and is perfectly valid there.
By the way, if you are being die hard, you could extend your objections to crash pads (sometimes in tall stacks) in HP or solo or hi-ball attempts (e.g. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61066 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61488)
Don't be silly!
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:
Same here, nearly to the very detail. I can do E2 in Peak, 7a/7b indoor, flash V6/V7 indoor, but it took me at least 6 attempts to climb "The Leaf" Font 6b+ (V4?) in the SoSa.
Think of gritstone style of climbing where the rock is like a sponge, but you still have to stick it very hard or even harder. Southern Sandstone is one of the most difficult rock to climb, IMHO.
> (In reply to Quarryboy) The ethics are to top rope or solo simples.
>
> One year I could
>
> onsight E2 in the peak
> Repeat E3 on slate
> Work a 7a to completion at Craggy Island (hard graded indoor wall)
>
> But and an effin big but (I hasten to add)
>
> I failed on 6a's on Southern Sandstone (SS).
>
> One year I could
>
> onsight E2 in the peak
> Repeat E3 on slate
> Work a 7a to completion at Craggy Island (hard graded indoor wall)
>
> But and an effin big but (I hasten to add)
>
> I failed on 6a's on Southern Sandstone (SS).
Same here, nearly to the very detail. I can do E2 in Peak, 7a/7b indoor, flash V6/V7 indoor, but it took me at least 6 attempts to climb "The Leaf" Font 6b+ (V4?) in the SoSa.
Think of gritstone style of climbing where the rock is like a sponge, but you still have to stick it very hard or even harder. Southern Sandstone is one of the most difficult rock to climb, IMHO.
In reply to Mattyk:
I'd say the pad was probably there to keep his shoes clean before he started climbing...
>
> But as an aside Jon's ascent of Chimaera is slightly marred as he used a bouldering pad as well as the top rope - tut tut!
> But as an aside Jon's ascent of Chimaera is slightly marred as he used a bouldering pad as well as the top rope - tut tut!
I'd say the pad was probably there to keep his shoes clean before he started climbing...
In reply to Guy Atkinson:
Rock jocks of today have far too much money then! What is wrong with a nicked beer towel I ask ye!
> (In reply to Mattyk)
>
> [...]
>
> I'd say the pad was probably there to keep his shoes clean before he started climbing...
>
> [...]
>
> I'd say the pad was probably there to keep his shoes clean before he started climbing...
Rock jocks of today have far too much money then! What is wrong with a nicked beer towel I ask ye!
In reply to Guy Atkinson:
AFAIK, pads also play an important role in ground & floras protection. Otherwise, it could be well ploughed around the crags.
> (In reply to Mattyk)
>
> [...]
>
> I'd say the pad was probably there to keep his shoes clean before he started climbing...
>
> [...]
>
> I'd say the pad was probably there to keep his shoes clean before he started climbing...
AFAIK, pads also play an important role in ground & floras protection. Otherwise, it could be well ploughed around the crags.
In reply to UKC News: Well done Jon, good effort, there's some nuts sequences in that climb, enjoyed the flim clip!!!!
In reply to Fishmate:
Hi Fishmate
I'm 5ft 9 1/2" - if interested (?!) I got my left foot really high as the guy in the vid (helped by a small nubbin, now broken, about 8" above the main foot ledge) and rocked onto it, being shortish and bendy helped to get my other foot on the edge in the groove before standing up ... so perhaps easier for me!
Topping out, that another poster mentioned, took me something like 15 minutes as it was covered in sandstone slime ... I think it (and the whole crag) is generally drier now as a lot of trees have been removed.
Is it news? Probably not ... it's definitely not cutting edge ... nice to see a video though and thus of interest but not news as such.
Solo? No!
Grade? Don't know the current Font grades are after my time ...
Dave Turner
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> btw, did you note the length of Mr P's legs..... that doesn't hurt on sandstone. Tony Musselbrook is also quite tall. Anyone know about Dave Turner?
>
> I think James Pearson is quite tall looking at his pic in the SS guidebook climbing 'Change in the Weather' at High Rocks Annexe across the road. Just interested, cause if only 6ft + climbers can do Chimaera my dreams are shot down big time ;0)
>
> btw, did you note the length of Mr P's legs..... that doesn't hurt on sandstone. Tony Musselbrook is also quite tall. Anyone know about Dave Turner?
>
> I think James Pearson is quite tall looking at his pic in the SS guidebook climbing 'Change in the Weather' at High Rocks Annexe across the road. Just interested, cause if only 6ft + climbers can do Chimaera my dreams are shot down big time ;0)
Hi Fishmate
I'm 5ft 9 1/2" - if interested (?!) I got my left foot really high as the guy in the vid (helped by a small nubbin, now broken, about 8" above the main foot ledge) and rocked onto it, being shortish and bendy helped to get my other foot on the edge in the groove before standing up ... so perhaps easier for me!
Topping out, that another poster mentioned, took me something like 15 minutes as it was covered in sandstone slime ... I think it (and the whole crag) is generally drier now as a lot of trees have been removed.
Is it news? Probably not ... it's definitely not cutting edge ... nice to see a video though and thus of interest but not news as such.
Solo? No!
Grade? Don't know the current Font grades are after my time ...
Dave Turner
In reply to dbturner:
Thanks for the response Dave. I too am 5' 9''1/2 so hope springs and all that I should be at the Annexe across the road tomorrow but of course will have to take a peak at Chimaera. rude not to really.
You are right about the trees being cut back. Shame the same couldn't be said about the continuation wall. If your top out was anything like the routes there then 15 minutes is an achievement in itself. Tis great to see a video of the ascent though. Mad moves. All the best.
Thanks for the response Dave. I too am 5' 9''1/2 so hope springs and all that I should be at the Annexe across the road tomorrow but of course will have to take a peak at Chimaera. rude not to really.
You are right about the trees being cut back. Shame the same couldn't be said about the continuation wall. If your top out was anything like the routes there then 15 minutes is an achievement in itself. Tis great to see a video of the ascent though. Mad moves. All the best.
In reply to UKC News: Nice one man, looks effing hard! some very bizzare moves!
In reply to UKC News:
Nice wee video. Great flexibility and very tough looking sequence of moves. Interesting to note about the ethics of southren sandstone, didn't know about that.
Not specific to the climb in the video, but with top roping obviously how tight the belayer has the rope can be a major advantage in a tenuous balancey move and can be the difference between success and failure for a climber at their personal limit.
For a successful ascent, is there an etiquette to govern this, e.g. has to be some obvious slack in system, or is it just done on trust?? Genuinely interested to hear....
Nice wee video. Great flexibility and very tough looking sequence of moves. Interesting to note about the ethics of southren sandstone, didn't know about that.
Not specific to the climb in the video, but with top roping obviously how tight the belayer has the rope can be a major advantage in a tenuous balancey move and can be the difference between success and failure for a climber at their personal limit.
For a successful ascent, is there an etiquette to govern this, e.g. has to be some obvious slack in system, or is it just done on trust?? Genuinely interested to hear....
In reply to Paul035: As a rule the rope has slack, otherwise you're dogging really. Additionally for many the local ethics discourage dogging at all - if you weight the rope you lower off.
Re: soloing - if you knew the area and had the guide, you would know what had and had not been soloed. This is the hardest route in the area, but there's a lot of others which haven't seen solo ascents. If you went and looked at the routes you'd start to see why, if you then tried them you'd understand even better, because routes and holds don't come much more tenuous than on SS. If you think top-roping isn't a valid ascent on SS, come and do some solos which haven't been done and if, afterwards, you can still walk, come back and we can all have the discussion again with some genuine understanding on both sides of the argument. Until then try to understand the different local ethics which at your own crag couldn't apply.
Re: soloing - if you knew the area and had the guide, you would know what had and had not been soloed. This is the hardest route in the area, but there's a lot of others which haven't seen solo ascents. If you went and looked at the routes you'd start to see why, if you then tried them you'd understand even better, because routes and holds don't come much more tenuous than on SS. If you think top-roping isn't a valid ascent on SS, come and do some solos which haven't been done and if, afterwards, you can still walk, come back and we can all have the discussion again with some genuine understanding on both sides of the argument. Until then try to understand the different local ethics which at your own crag couldn't apply.
In reply to UKC News:
I was linked to this thread from a different one re Dundee-area routes (!?)
Damned good video, well done camera & editing bods!
I was linked to this thread from a different one re Dundee-area routes (!?)
Damned good video, well done camera & editing bods!
In reply to Radical-G:
well put Radical, true words. If you want to improve your head game or risk ruining it come and climb SS.
On a domestic note, I soloed at the High Rocks Annexe and Continuation Wall yesterday and would like to say 'don't put soft sandstone climbing clothes in with other items'. All my work shirts have sandy smears on them as though the sand has been puffed up and I brushed my trousers off before washing them and used top soap. That is harder to work out than how someone can get up Chimaera.
well put Radical, true words. If you want to improve your head game or risk ruining it come and climb SS.
On a domestic note, I soloed at the High Rocks Annexe and Continuation Wall yesterday and would like to say 'don't put soft sandstone climbing clothes in with other items'. All my work shirts have sandy smears on them as though the sand has been puffed up and I brushed my trousers off before washing them and used top soap. That is harder to work out than how someone can get up Chimaera.
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