In reply to Nemo:
A historical thread indeed. Not only did Franco say I was right, we have stirred the mighty Nemo from his lair!
Nemo, you're a wise man indeed - I pretty much agree.
Minor quibbles:
>Sure you can assign tech 7a to Font 7b+-7c+ problems and tech 7b to Font 8a-8b problems. But what the heck is the point?
The point is guidebooks still have to be written and it makes sense to have all the trad routes in the same grading scale. So if we have E11, and one day may have E15 etc, so we need 7a to make sense, and maybe 7c or even Uk 8a one day. Or do you think we should just abandon E-grades?
>The only problem and confusion comes when people give stuff like West Side Story E4 or Careless Torque E6. This is what cocks everything up, and confuses everyone.
My take on this was that boulder problems don't deserve route grades.
So the E grade was for the bit that does deserve an E-grade - ie the top out. So WSS is a 7a boulder problem with an E4 (6a) to top out, and CT is a 7b boulder problem with an E7 (6c) to top out.
Its the modern highballs like Gerty Berwick or Cornelius that really balls it up. The crux is high up - so yes it deserves a big E-grade. All the above assumes no pads of course. If we are using pads, a simpler scale makes more sense...
Can we get some more votes for the ! highball scale then? I've explained it to various guide editors but none of them have jumped in.