UKC

In this, the first episode of a six part video series, crack addict Tom Randall teaches us everything we need to know about finger cracks.

How's your jamming? Not too good? Get to Crack School!

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4616

In reply to UKC Articles:

Is that a different Cobra Crack then, Tom?

In reply to UKC Articles: That's a great video, Tom on fingers, Pete on Feet. I'm way off those E cracks but do get the odd useful finger jam when I can. Any advice on-
1) Fear: me finger will get stuck.
2) More fear: the jam will slip leaving bits of finger behind in the crack- I get more scared the less fingers I can get in the crack, even though just two fingers seem to make an otherwise good jam.

Can't wait for the next lesson in Crack School.
Thanks

In reply to UKC Articles:
Someone needs to tell Pete he's got a Gerbil on his shoulder

In reply to UKC Articles:

Excellent video guys!

In reply to hcawright:

Pete always has a gerbil with him. He's full of tips and useful rockover beta, right there when you need it

In reply to althesin: all I can say is that I've never got mine stuck on a route, so go with go with those dodgy statistics??! Seriously though, its actually pretty hard to get stuck.

In reply to UKC Articles: They looked so relaxed on that video! Any tips on not getting a massive pump on this sort of terrain?

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:
There must be the odd jam you've worried about falling off on to? you know something with a sharp edge in the wrong place,

In reply to CurlyStevo:
I've never managed to get a hand stuck but I've got my feet caught on 3 occasions all of them at Ramshaw. I think this is evidence that crack climbing is prefectly safe unless you are at Ramshaw

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: Can't believe you didn't put Get Rich Quick on your finger crack list Tom, unbelievable!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks very much. I almost can't believe that I never thought of the difference in hold between thumbs up and thumbs down. I feel just with this snippet of info that suddenly another grade will open up to me. You can bet I'll be crack hunting this weekend

In reply to Boy: Jon, very good point.

Get Rich Quick at Robin Hood Quarries is a great E5 finger crack for those who've done London Wall.

I didn't forget Our Forte in the "hands episode" though!!

In reply to rampantchopper: It's mostly about trusting your feet. At most times I'm actually very close to slipping off as I go as close to the margin of friction as possible. Often this is the secret to good grit climbing. Adam Long is a real master at this...

In reply to Boy: And Bob Hope in the Chew Valley!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Brilliant article, cheers. Can't wait for the rest. Could've done with these a few weeks back when I was getting spanked at Millstone!

In reply to althesin: Yes, my thoughts exactly. I can see my feet slipping off, followed by the rest of my body, minus a few fingers. I shall watch and learn for the next few weeks.

In reply to UKC Articles: great video. finger jamming is definitely one of my weaknesses. I have read a lot of articles about it over the years but I still learnt a lot in this short video.

In reply to UKC Articles: Gymcrack (HVS) at Ilkley (Rocky Valley) is an awesome finger crack, although it becomes a thin hand crack above the overlap.