Climbers in the UK have a lot to thank Pete Oxley for, roughly 800 new routes, the majority established on the southern limestone of Portland and Swanage, including three guidebooks to the South's most popular sport climbing area. Now with a move to New Zealand at Christmas, with his partner Jan Rostron, Pete is leaving his beloved Dorset behind.
In reply to UKC News: i used to climb with pete when he and myself first started climbing ihavent seen him since i moved to newcastle 21 years ago and if he or someone who knows him reads this could they wish him all the best from russell lovett
To Pete us bolt clippers on the south coast owe you a debt of gratitude for all the nice routes. I am sure my climbing partner would agree even though he is 5ft4 and can never reach the clips. Have fun down under
Bolt clipping types may have a lot to thank him for. Some of us might feel like he's been a bit vigorous with his Hilti in his time. I quote Nigel Coe posting on here from a thread about Cornish Bolts:
"Half a dozen of my routes have been retroed on Portland, yet I’d definitely not given permission"
His parting might not be viewed with too much sorrow in some quarters...
> His parting might not be viewed with too much sorrow in some quarters...
Judging by the immense popularity of the Portland/ Swanage sport routes, your un-sorrowed should probably best be quantified as sixteen-ths or thirty-two-ths rather than quarters.
Hats off to Pete Oxley and his transformation of the south coast. I predict that one day he'll even be vindicated on his actions at Pembroke when the contrived gear placements on the Big Issue become unusable and the route gets re-retro'd.
> Cue, this thread degenerating into a bolts argument.
Agree to some extent, but someone else raised the topic and, for better or worse, Pete Oxley is usually associated with bolts and bolting - even though he has lots of impressive trad FAs to his credit.
Huge contribution to British Climbing, without his intiative and energy much of Portland would still be a dour depressing rarely climbed place.
Good luck Pete
FredMead08 Oct 2005
In reply to JRobertson:
Without Pete Oxleys bolting of the South coast I would be trying to climb the Mendip sport routes of which there are about three of any quality.
Over the last 20 odd years, Pete has opened up a whole new world to climbers and pushed English sport climbing into the 21st century.
Who cares that he has retrobolted a few trad routes. He produced QUALITY sport climbs out of them. Look at Slings Shot... sooo popular.
It is a great shame that he is leaving the scene as there are still some hard hard projects left of the south coast and in Devon. Just look at the projects left on Ferocity wall at Anstey's Cove.
Anyway, We all wish you the very best of luck over there Pete. I wonder if you can make the same impact over there as you have done here ....
I have never met the guy but have done a few of his routes in Portland and wish him the best of luck.
Climbing in Portland has gotten me addicted to the sport (or is it way of life?!). I'm now planning many trips, to many exotic places, trips I would definately not have done if I hadn't have been hooked by the great sports routes in Portland...someone mentioned Slingshot earlier on - a classic route for a punter like me! Portland has made climbing great routes accessible to someone like me who came to the sport late,startd 15 months ago and I'm 31. Since March I've been to Portland 4 or 5 times and had a fantastic time each time.
Congratulations on finally doing Project Lifeforce Pete.
It takes a superhuman amount of dedication to commit to such a big project, dragging yourself down there day in, day out in some pretty atricious conditions and keeping yourself in condition to make it physically possible.
Were it not for your personal efforts in bolting-up and publicising Portland I'd not have got into this sport as much as I have (not so sure Karen is so thankful). I hope New Zealand provides as much untouched quality rock as you've enjoyed in Dorset over the last 20 years.
Keep smoking the Portland Pipe!
Mark Higgs10 Oct 2005
In reply to UKC News:Ah good way to bow out Pete! thanx for all the days out,that day on Vespasian was somthing to see,climbing makes our lives beter, even if it sometimes takes them.I think I owe my climbing to you.Hope NZ works out, it aint that bad moving away from the UK I can tell you.Keep in touch and say Hi to Jan eh!
From the Kitesurfing King of Belgium (Ha Ha)
In reply to tobyfk: That's what I've heard too, I don't think you're the only one who thinks that.
Not entirely irrelevant to Fred's point about the mendips, There is always the question about whether a piece of rock would make a worthwhile trad route or a worthwhile sport route, or if it wouldn't make any sort of worthwhile route at all.
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