UKC

NEWS: Woods climbs The Process on Grandpa Peabody

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 UKC News 18 Jan 2015
Daniel Woods on Lucid Dreaming, ~8C, Buttermilks, 4 kbDaniel Woods has made the first ascent of the "mega project" on the Grandpa Peabody boulder at Buttermilks, California.
Details are scarce, as in there are no details yet other than that Daniel confirmed in a text message reading Yea man I just took it down. Crazy process.
According to rumours...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69447
Franz the Stampede 18 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

First: congratulations to Daniel, those committing dynamic moves at height can't be easy under any aspect.

Second: I wonder if it may be sensible to propose a route grade for such a climb. As far as one could tell from Exposure, the problem is longer than, dare I say it?, either Action Direct or Hubble. It'd be interesting to understand how many moves is the 7C+ and if the top out is mostly a matter of just not faffing it.

Very interesting news altogether, thanks Björn.

 jsmcfarland 18 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Gotta go look at Exposure again but damn that's awesome news. Seems like Woods, Webb, Graham are going to be kings of bouldering for a while longer yet eh :p
 RyanOsborne 19 Jan 2015
In reply to Franz the Stampede:

'I wonder if it may be sensible to propose a route grade for such a climb. As far as one could tell from Exposure, the problem is longer than, dare I say it?, either Action Direct or Hubble.'

I think Steve McClure (or maybe someone else) said something once about grading these big boulder problems, and that as they're not really individual hard moves, or hard short sequences, they should really be given a french grade, which describes the route's difficulty overall.
 jsmcfarland 19 Jan 2015
In reply to RyanOsborne:

Funny, some high level routes are broken down into boulder problems between easier terrain so it's all apples and oranges. Just because the problem is really long doesn't mean there is hard moves, just that there are super hard sections with slightly less super hard sections between
 Michael Ryan 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Franz the Stampede:

> Second: I wonder if it may be sensible to propose a route grade for such a climb.

It's a boulder route innit? Route grade has to be up there; 9b? (or E12 7b ; o )
 Michael Ryan 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Michael Ryan:

BTW ...Transporter roon next to this new rock climb used to have bolts in it and was given 5.12c - then the bolts were taken out and it was soloed.
In reply to UKC News:

It seems like with bouldering they have more or less reached the human difficulty limit in terms of individual moves and now the only thing they can do to get higher grades is link more of them together.
 Mutl3y 26 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:
Well done Daniel.
 jsmcfarland 26 Jan 2015
In reply to Quarryboy:

People have been saying that for years When Paul Robinson did Lucid Dreaming lots of people said that was the hardest move in the world, and I'm sure there are harder out there. We will have to see
In reply to jsmcfarland:
Yeah but the difference in difficulty for moves on say hubble and lucid dreaming the first ascents of which are a good 20 or so years apart is much less than the difficulty of moves on the hardest routes in the 1970's compared the routes done by the mid to late 80's so it's obvious things are becoming much more marginal now compared to what they were. I think stuff like lucid dreaming besides you being a world class athlete also requires you to be lucky enough to get the hold just right on the jump move which to a certain extent I don't think there is magic beta for.
Post edited at 00:25

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