UKC

/ Alien Redemption

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Martin W on 13 Jul 2018

I started a whingeing thread over a year ago about my local wall, without actually identifying it (though it was swiftly identified by other regulars, suggesting that the sources of my complaints were at least recognisable).

After not having climbed anything of any kind for over year (unless you allow the partially VFed scramble to the summit of the Gran Cir above Passo Gardena a month or so back), I went to Alien Rock (for that was indeed the wall in question) again last night.  I am pleased to report that all of the routes I climbed seemed sensibly set, not repetitive and devoid of ridiculous stopper moves.  When we did struggle to complete certain routes it was because of our own lack of skill and/or technique - which is as it should be - rather than silly route setting.

Some of the grading was still a bit wonky.  Both my partner and I felt that the 6a on right hand panel of the wall facing the office seemed noticeably easier than the 5+ on the same panel (though that might have been due to the slightly unfamiliar contortions required to use the  'hidden' holds on the panel round the corner).  We enjoyed both routes, though.

So it looks like I may become a regular at Alien Rock once again, other demands on my time permitting.  Which I am happy about.

I don't know whether the discussion on my earlier thread was brought to the attention of those with authority over such things at Alien Rock.  If so then well done for taking steps to remedy the situation.  Even if it was just a temporary glitch and it has 'fixed itself' then I'm still pleased that Alien Rock has once again become a pleasant and rewarding place to climb indoors.


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