UKC

/ Any training for remembering beta? I'm awful

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Maddie - on 12 Aug 2018

Hey all,

Basically I've recently realised one of my big weaknesses is that once I start climbing a route I absolutely never stick to the same sequence. I might do for the crux but will just do something totally different with my feet or something for an easier bit and it will just throw me off because then I doubt everything. I do visualise the route on the ground but genuinely forget when climbing. Often I'll do a boulder or a section of a route and not be able to tell people how I did it, it's wierd.

Anyone found anything helpful for this? I'm going to start using pattern memory apps and stuff but any other ideas? Cheers!

bouldery bits - on 12 Aug 2018
In reply to Maddie:

Get on the woody - you have to remember the sequence of holds and the beta!

When bouldering indoor, discuss your beta and movements with others. If you can talk it, you can remember it! 

 

When I visualise I find it most effective when I lie on the floor on my back and make the physical movements from the ground.

 

Breathing on a redpoint attempt is really important. It really helps me to remember when I take a half second to think 'breathe'

 

Not sure if ant of the above helps, but it works for me usually. (I don't fall off because of forgetting vthe sequence. I fall off cos I'm fat, weak and bad at climbing!)

Post edited at 23:09
UKB Shark - on 13 Aug 2018
In reply to Maddie:

Film yourself

plyometrics - on 13 Aug 2018
In reply to Maddie:

Forget technology, simply sketch the route down in a note pad and make note of any key sequences. 

Take time to review what you’ve sketched regularly and use it to visualise. 

Andrew Kin - on 13 Aug 2018
In reply to Maddie:

We have a bit of fun from time to time.  My daughter will memorise a route and then climb it blind.  It helps her memory of what she is looking at and the holds involved and you can actually see her touching holds and then deciding they are the wrong hold by feel alone.  She has memorised the way she should be holding it and if it doesn't tally up then she knows its wrong.

At the wall we borrow the walls goggles which have been gaffa taped off.  At the wall last week we didn't have anything so she climbed with her vest wrapped around her head.  The people who had just struggled up the 6b were laughing that she waltzed up blind.

 

Maddie - on 14 Aug 2018

Thanks guys. I think the sketching idea might work quite well for me, I don't really have anything that could film well unfortunately. I'll definitely try a few of the suggestions out and let you know if anything works particularly well.

Ta!

 

ericinbristol - on 14 Aug 2018
In reply to Maddie:

* Make beta notes e.g. 'RH to sharp incut, LH slap sidepull next to bolt, LF high smear' etc
* Visualise it in your head over and over: you quickly realise the bits you are not sure about, and once you know them you can climb the whole thing bottom to top in your head.
* Get someone to film you
* A good climbing partner will be really on it and reminder you as you go (has made all the difference on many redpoints for me)

In reply to Maddie:

I try to visualise and sometimes draw the route out. I've also found that sometimes on a route my mind will flash back to an image or thought that I had when I first tried the move, so sometimes that helps to remember my sequence/body position. Maybe think of a key word/image as you do the crux sequence? Something silly to make it memorable. A story maybe? Too much effort perhaps!

"I twisted my knee and pinched myself and some money fell out my pocket." 

Sometimes the emotion I felt on making a move the first time helps me remember it, like "Awkward high foot - oh no! sharp crimp, pull like hell!"

Tricky to explain, but I suppose just tuning into the moves mentally can help!

 

 


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