UKC

Ballygalley Head / NI Climbs

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 M Lyons 13 Dec 2020

I’m spending this Christmas and New Years back in my homeland of Northern Ireland and am hoping to get some climbing in. I’ve never climbed there so don’t know what’s available but will be based in a Carrickfergus and would love to hear of any low grade (up to say VD / HVD) climbs you’d recommend anywhere up to say 2 hours drive from Carrick. Thanks in advance!

 p-lawrie 13 Dec 2020
In reply to M Lyons:

Interested in getting out, have PM'd!

 Mick Ward 14 Dec 2020
In reply to M Lyons:

Have climbed a lot at Ballygalley but not for almost fifty years, so beta may not be quite up to date! The odd route was V Diff but would think the place will be covered with grass (might be wrong, though) and I think climbing is discouraged. It's (very) near the road and I heard a local golf club objected.

If I were you I'd grab the latest Mournes guidebook (in general, a superb publication) and head to Hen mountain, near the Spelga Pass. Bit of a drive (two hours?) and a twenty minute walk. But, on a good day, it would be fantastic. Very rounded holds, friction climbing (takes a bit of getting used to; bring those cams!) A great position and a feeling of being in the mountains, even if you're really just above the road.

There may well be other (better?) alternatives, these days. But a vote for humble - yet lovely - Hen! I've got great memories of the place.

Mick


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