UKC

I've started doing some dead hangs and small moves on the campus board at the local wall. I'm not quite bounding up there footless but I'm also trying to improve my open hand grip (for reach, strength and injury avoidance), so have been using that on the largest campus rungs.

However, I've been told by those that know that I shouldn't be using open hand on campus rungs and should be using a half crimp.

Am very aware the campus board is the ruin of many a good finger... so which is the best technique to use?

Sounds like you should use "those" advisors for purposes other than Training . . .

since the Open grip is the grip most recommended for safety in campus-board training by real experts.

There is both a 3-finger and a 4-finger version of Open grip. Many cliimbers seem to only use one of those - (might be worthwhile to try both in various climbing situations, see which one is better for what purposes).

"half crimp" has several different meanings -- Before having a detailed conversation about that recommendation, suggest find a link to photo which shows exactly what you (or "those" advisors) think you want to use -- and show that link to us here on UKC.

Ken

I don't know why you shouldn't open hand on campus rungs if you can but most people half crimp as it is a more stable grip to pull on traditional campus rungs. However, small moves on big rungs isn't really campusing in the classic sense.

As a general aim I'd look to train all the grip types for performance and injury prevention. Avoiding training crimping altogether could make you more susceptible to injury when you are forced to crimp by a route or problem.         

I think there are a number of sources that caution against using a full crimp for campusing.

Presumably campusing won't be the only form of training so probably best to train other grip types, certainly full crimps, in a feet on position. After all the vast majority of climbing moves are foot on. If you do end up on something where you have to catch a full crimp footless at least you won't be doing it repeatedly, week in, week out.

Hi Steve - you misconstrued what I said - I didn't recommend full crimping to campus but recommended to train all grips as a general aim.

The OP seemed to be keen to avoid it altogether. There is difference between doing it with care and not doing it all and the message seems to have dumbed down to the latter these days despite crimp strength being an undeniably important strength to have. 

I was chatting with a friend today who has done a lot of campusing. He says he uses the open/half crimp when campusing.

Then again if you take a look at Adam Ondra he frequently seems to use open hand grip:

youtube.com/watch?v=e0C8KOX7ROE&

I imagine the choice might also be determined to some degree by the size and shape of the rungs. For smaller rungs maybe an open crimp is more suitable. Using less than 4 fingers though almost certainly means using an open handed grip.

Ah OK. I wasn't sure but that makes sense now.

There's a video of Jim Pope and Alex Megos battling it out in the BIFF final on the Infinity campus thing. Look like Jim uses open hand grip while Alex is using an open crimp as far as I can tell.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BeeTERuALes/

Well . . . in the teaser photo on that page . . . seems clear to me that the climber on the left is using a _closed_ crimp with their left (lower) hand. . . ("closed" meaning thumb over top of index finger).

But generally in the video both of them are using some sort of open grip most of the time.

Ken

P.S. Could someone post an "official" / "correct" photo of the so-called open crimp grip. To me "open" and "crimp" are contradictory categories for climbing grips.

Well spotted, definitely a closed crimp to start, which is surprising actually.

The key for me with half crimp (aka open crimp) is that the forefinger is bent at the second joint rather than the first joint. If the first joint is flexed and the second joint is straight then it's an open hand (see Jim Pope in this vid). The thumb is usually underneath and not used. A half/open crimp is most useful in a narrow slot because you can't pull into a full crimp position. The first two joints are roughly perpendicular to the rock whereas in a full crimp they're more like at 45 degrees.

Thanks.

So I guess what's missing is the "correct" name for a normal crimp, which is just like the closed crimp but not folding the thumb over the top of the index finger.

. . (What's funny is that some authorities call _that_ a half-crimp, which is how I first learned it).

Ken