/ Best circuit boards?

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kevin stephens - on 10 Mar 2019

I really like a good circuit board for training and find they are very effective in getting strong.  The one at Sheffield Works is great if rather small. Unfortunately the circuit board at Awesome Sheffield always seems to be poorly set (maybe why I rarely see anyone on it?).  I travel around the country for work quite a bit and would be interested in finding other really good circuit boards for solitary training, so recommendations will be greatly received. 

Post edited at 17:37
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petegunn on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

Eden Rock in Carlisle normally have 9 circuits from 5+ to 8a. 

https://picgra.com/media/1973376288370823713

Post edited at 17:47
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paul__in_sheffield - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to petegunn:

2nd vote for the Carlisle Eden Rock circuit board, prob worth mentioning a varied campus section and peg board.

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planetmarshall on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

They have a good couple of boards at Manchester Depot. Normally quite quiet.

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Jon Stewart - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

It's really small, but the Kendal Wall "Malham Board" is brilliant - I think it's Neil Gresham's work. 15 deg overhanging with 4 sets of wood handholds (crimps basically) and two sets of feet (awful and really  awful). 

There's a chart which tells you how many laps of what hands and feet are equivalent to different Malham routes, e.g. 3 laps of spots/green feet plus one lap hardwood/red feet = Obsession. 

Personally I'm not interested in the Malham correspondence element, but it makes for a really convenient training tool for power endurance, being really easy to set the intensity at whatever level you desire.

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joeldering on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

Stronghold in London has a pretty great circuit board - moderately overhanging circuits that link into the 45 degree board.

Yonder has a great one too - adjustable from 10 degrees to 40 degrees overhanging.

Post edited at 18:04
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kevin stephens - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

Thanks everybody so far. What makes a good board for me is lots of up and down moves needing pulls in different directions, lots of dependence on body tension, finger holds, lay aways and occasional jugs. Not to steep, 6b to 7b (sport grade). Sheffield Works is a great example 

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jezb1 - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

Love a good circuit board.

My local wall doesn’t set circuits on the circuit board

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kevin stephens - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to jezb1:

Is that the Beacon?

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afx22 - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

I like the one at Leeds Depot.

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jezb1 - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

> Is that the Beacon?

Yeah

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TonyB - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

I've used the ones in The Works, The Derby Unit, The Nottingham Depot and the Loughborough Station. I think out of those Loughborough has the best. There is one at 10 degrees and one at 35 degrees. Routes from 6b to 8a+ on the 35 and 5+ to 7a on the 10 degree. On the 35 the routes are about 40 moves. The 10 degree wall is smaller, as they have built a lattice board that has used up some of its former space. I think the setting is really good, they have some circuits on wood holds which i find better for the skin.

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AlanLittle - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

> What makes a good board for me is lots of up and down moves needing pulls in different directions

Personally I hate tricky downclimbing sections; I have no desire to have my training buggered up by movement that has no relevance to what I'm training for.

My local, Boulderwelt (Munich) is a repeat offender in this regard, and in general tends to set tricky circuits with complex, low percentage cruxes. This may well be great for entertaining folks for whom having fun on the plastic is an end in itself - the main market these days - but severely compromises their usefulness as an endurance training tool.

The UK walls I've been to this century - Works, Climbing Station, Highball in Norwich, Manchester Depot - tend to be better in this regard. The Depot really is the opposite end of the scale from Boulderwelt - completely cruxless monotonous stamina plods. Which is not a criticism, it's great for what they're there for.

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kevin stephens - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

Well on a circuit if you want more ups then surely they have to be balanced by downs? Rather than simple traversing. I understand that controlled extension of arms, eg slow reversing a one arm pull up is particularly good for strength training? Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can confirm or correct me?

Post edited at 20:55
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AlanLittle - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

Well yes, obviously you have to go downwards at some point. But it shouldn't be the crux.

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kevin stephens - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

I agree there shouldn’t be a particular crux anywhere maybe 5 or 6 moves harder than the others, it should be all about power endurance. 

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Lemony - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

I really, really wish The Valley in Newcastle hadn't built the "skip" into theirs. Adding the roof in means that the crux of every route that goes that way is totally distinct and there's rests either side out have to choose to ignore.

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paul__in_sheffield - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

I’ve a 32 degree symmetrical board at home which also works for laps, with mostly hardwoodholds and Beastmaker holds. I’ve got room for a circuit board, what’s everyone’s preferences for angle?ive seen everything from 15 to 50 degrees I guess.

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kevin stephens - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

Well I guess it depends how strong you are? Steep enough to train on slopers and crimps but not so steep that all the holds have to be jugs. I’m frustrated that the three Sheffield walls all have 45 degree system boards. 30 degrees would be better for most of the customers. Otherwise how are we going to get strong enough to use the 45 degree boards?

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kevin stephens - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

Awesome Sheffield was rammed today but circuit board and bouldering was empty. I wish some walls would get their act together re effective training bouldering and circuit boards . I’d be happy to buy a season pass for one that does. It will be interesting to see what the new Sheffield Depot comes up with

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DenzelLN - on 10 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

Boulder UK, circuits from 6b up to 9a, brilliantly set by Ian and the team.

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Ian Patterson on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

>  I wish some walls would get their act together re effective training bouldering and circuit boards . I’d be happy to buy a season pass for one that does. It will be interesting to see what the new Sheffield Depot comes up with

I would expect the Sheffield Depot to have excellent circuit boards for endurance / stamina training.   Manchester has 2 large boards. one 10-20ish degrees the other 20-30ish degrees, each board has 6 circuits so 12 in total usually from 6a to 8a/+ and 35 to 50 moves.  Circuits are generally very well set for endurance training and use a decent variety of holds as well.   

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Sankey - on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

plus one to this, last time I went to the awesome walls I jumped on the easiest circuit as a warm up (maybe 6a) and immediately almost wrenched my shoulder out and failed on the "crux" move (I'm not a great climber but have a OK record on 6a's!).  Beyond that the whole set up seemed bewildering with little indication of starting hold, or direction of travel.  Seems odd to have the resource in terms of wall space and not make use of it.  The Edge's board was much better before it closed.  The climbing works after the re-set is also OK, but I think narrowed now due to the newer steep boards.

Can't wait for the depot to open in Sheffield, the bouldering is usually excellent at those centers, and the promise of a decent circuit board is another bonus.

Post edited at 13:52
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thepodge on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to Ian Patterson:

> I would expect the Sheffield Depot to have excellent circuit boards for endurance / stamina training.   Manchester has 2 large boards. one 10-20ish degrees the other 20-30ish degrees, each board has 6 circuits so 12 in total usually from 6a to 8a/+ and 35 to 50 moves.  Circuits are generally very well set for endurance training and use a decent variety of holds as well.   

Bit like this?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuEBaVdhF_n/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

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dilatory - on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

As much as I disliked TCA Bristol their circuit boards were pretty cool. One of my local walls occasionally sets decent circuits. The other doesn't, but is crap for bouldering anyway. I'm content with pumping out after 6 moves. 

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petwes on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

I think Veroboard was the best, cutting your own lands and being able to solder both sides gave great versatility.

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carl dawson - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

Can I make a plea for circuits that follow a figure-of-eight rather than a loop. Then you get two “ups” instead of just one.

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