/ Best finger board app?
I hate finger boards but they do work for me.
Anyone recommendation for a finger board app? has to be android. I've got a basic timer...
I've only used the Beastmaker, but it did motivate me more than not having an app, and it's easy to use and customise your work out. Probably best if you actually have access to a Beastmaker.
I hate fingerboards too, I actually find it more fun and motivating to use a fixed hold board. Not specifically fingers, but it does work. The best training is the one you'll stick to, and I'm not sure I'd persevere long enough with fingerboarding to make it worthwhile.
I bought the beastmaker app as well because my local wall has a beastmaker 1000 and 2000 and I know from experience I won't FB at home. I can't say how it compares but it works fine for me and is probably translatable to other boards.
Worth noting there seems to be a big jump in difficulty from the 1000 workouts to the 2000 workout - or there is at my sort of grade (the easiest 2000 workout!)
I use Boulder Trainer, it has some pre-loaded workouts for all the popular boards, but the reason I chose it was because you can take a picture of the board (In my case, some brandless monstrosity from ebay), and superimpose numbers on the holds to build a custom workout, I crafted some large pinches for my board when I consistently failed on routes that required clipping from any kind of pinch, then I just had to take a new picture and renumber the holds with the pinches too.
Now I can get to the wall often enough that I don't fingerboard at all, I don't really climb hard enough to require that kind of specific training, but I got the board when I couldn't get to the wall more than once a week and it did help.
+1 for Hangtight. Simple and good for saving a variety of custom routines. Probably best if you're into Lopez style "max hang" sets - where you just repeatedly hang an edge, and aren't switching holds every hang.
Have you used Seconds Pro? It's not specifically a fingerboard app but it's so flexible and well designed that I'd find it hard to think of anything useful a fingerboard app could do that this couldn't. Plus you can use it for all kinds of other training too.
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