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Best harness for trad?

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For the last few years I’ve used the DMM Renegade 2 for trad climbing. Alas, mine met its demise at the hands of a doctor’s scissors despite my (ketamine-morphine-laughing gas induced) insistence that it would be fine for me to wear it to hospital, because my mostly detached foot was clearly nowhere near my hips. 

Anyway:

Positives of the Renegade 2: sooooo many gear loops.

Negatives: didn’t find it comfortable, and found it inevitably and quickly slipped down from above my hips to on to them.

So I might try something different next time. 

Suggestions?

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In reply to Paul Sagar:

Black Diamond Technician

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In reply to nickinscottishmountains:

Cool. I really rate the BD Solution for sport climbing, so makes sense to go BD again. 

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 jezb1 26 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

The BD Solution is good, but the Arcteryx ones are even nicer https://bit.ly/2Z9V2Wc

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In reply to Paul Sagar:

I had a Renegade which I liked

Now have a Climbing Tech Ascent which is great https://www.climbingtechnology.com/en/outdoor-en/harnesses/ascent

The Wall seems like a newer lighter version https://www.climbingtechnology.com/en/outdoor-en/harnesses/wall

Edit to add: they also seem remarkable value - approx 55€ compared to 80+ for BD and 100+ for Arcteryx

Post edited at 17:52
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 cb294 26 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

+1 for BD harnesses. I had some for years, then switched to WC. Big mistake, next one will be BD again. Just seem to be a better fit for my fat American style arse, much less issue with slipping when climbing with a backpack.

CB

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In reply to jezb1:

I don't like the Arcteryx for trad because gear on the rearward loops is too far back for me to find things quickly when it gets urgent and it gets very congested if I try to carry everything for a big pitch on the front loops.

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 brianjcooper 26 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

I was going to suggest the latest version of the Wild Country Syncro 2 which has 7 gear loops. I love mine. But looking at their website it only shows 4 harnesses!  They must be in decline?

Regarding your fall at Wildcat. I hope you recover soon. Tut's was desperate for me just seconding.

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In reply to Paul Sagar:

> Cool. I really rate the BD Solution for sport climbing, so makes sense to go BD again. 


Given that you like the BD Solution; the Solution Guide seems logical.

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Cheers all, most helpful. I’ve mostly resisted buying gear I don’t need, but the cast comes off in two weeks so I can start getting excited about...er...three months of physio...and why not buy a nice new harness as motivation to do it. 

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In reply to brianjcooper:

Thanks - it’s especially desperate if you wander off onto the E4 instead and then decide to take all your gear out above a big ledge...

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 NIGBEE 26 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Just bought an Ocun Webee Quatro and am really impressed with it, 7 large gear loops and very comfortable, got it to replace a Wild Country Synchro and is much better

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 brianjcooper 26 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

> Thanks - it’s especially desperate if you wander off onto the E4 instead and then decide to take all your gear out above a big ledge...

Yeah! I read that bit. The ledge with the big tree on it I guess. Ouch. 

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 nniff 26 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

> Positives of the Renegade 2: sooooo many gear loops.

> Negatives:  and found it inevitably and quickly slipped down from above my hips to on to them.

There's a correlation there.  Get yourself a bandolier and fewer gear loops, or less gear, or take the gear off your harness and decorate the crag with it - and leave it there ;o)

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 David Myatt 27 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

I have the Renegade Pro as I only use harnesses with double-back buckles. Is there any potential of slippage on your current version that allows it to fall on to your hips?

David

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 galpinos 27 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Would the solution not work for trad? It’s got four big loops on?

Edit: I’ve got a Sitta which I find is ace for all uses bar ski touring (I have an old BD couloir for that).

Post edited at 11:54
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 lieraza 27 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

I have an AR-385a which is wonderfully comfortable. I find Arcteryx's naming system quite baffling but I think the AR-395a is the men's version. It's worked out well for me because I don't really like having lots of gear loops. This one has only four, but massive ones at the front, so I can fit all of my cams/wires plus some quickdraws without it all getting too bunched up. The back two gear loops are a bit further back but I don't mind that so much. 

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 Mark Haward 27 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Firstly, continued good luck with the recovery.

    Once you are ready and shops are open I suggest trying different harnesses on and hanging from them in the shop whilst wearing your normal climbing clothing. 

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In reply to nniff:

My favourite ploy seems to be to hang all the gear I own off my harness, and then not bother putting any of it in the climb, which certainty contributes to the situation you point out!

Definitely leaning towards the Solution Guide, but interested to check out the Arc’Xpensive and CT ones mentioned. As Mark suggested probably worth trying them on if possible. 

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In reply to brianjcooper:

Nah, I had enough gear (that I’d actually left in the rock) such that what I hit was between the big tree ledge and the ramp of Lynx (HS 4b). The big tree was where I got lowered to and waited for MR for two hours. I think that’s now my least favourite tree in the world. 

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 McKEuan 27 Jun 2020
In reply to brianjcooper:

No decline for WC! 

4 new harnesses for this year and 2 new ones for next summer. New, updated Synchro and a lightweight sport harness!

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 lieraza 27 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Haha yeah I found it for a heavily reduced price, but even with that it was still pricey. I spent two years wearing a Mammut sport harness with tiny gear loops so decided I deserved it!

Might not be the one if you do like having lots of loops though.

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 mattck 27 Jun 2020
In reply to McKEuan:

Any info anywhere on the new Syncro?

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 brianjcooper 27 Jun 2020
In reply to mattck:

> Any info anywhere on the new Syncro?

I can't see any on their official website.

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 Becky E 28 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

if you're used to 7 gear loops on the Renegade, you'll find having just 4 on the Solution a real pain. I ended up with a Solution as an emergency purchase (airline lost luggage...) and the lack of a rear gear loop is really annoying for trad.

Just a thought re the harness slipping down - do you actually need a harness with a longer rise (ie are you relatively long in the body)?  If so, try a women's model to see if the fit's any better.

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 PaulJepson 28 Jun 2020
In reply to Becky E:

I don't understand the obsession with having loads of gear loops. Your waist stays the same size, so you only have a finite amount of racking space. Having used the dmm one with tons of loops, I'd rather just 4 big ones. 

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 Vergency 28 Jun 2020
In reply to Paul Sagar:

I also suggest using Black Diamond Technician, it is what I currently use and it is the best that I have used so far.

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 Becky E 28 Jun 2020
In reply to PaulJepson:

My main grip with the BD Solution is not having a rear loop for the stuff that you only need at the belay - screwgates, belay device, etc.  If I can shove that round the back, then only having four "normal" gear loops is fine.

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In reply to Becky E:

Yes, my thought here though is that the Solution Guide precisely does have a big rear loop for exactly this sort of stuff - which is appealing.

Good thought though about a woman's version. I borrowed my girlfriend's harness during lockdown when I was doing weighted hangs and I have to admit it did feel like it fit better.

Post edited at 19:28
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 rockwing 19:54 Sun
In reply to PaulJepson:

Agreed. I went from the Renegade2 to the Mythril.


4 large loops (and a rear haul loop that can take a few krabs), lighter than the R2, more comfortable and straps less flappy.

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In reply to Paul Sagar:

I've been 'informed' that WC are working on a new Syncro harness, not currently showing on their website. Hopefully it will have 7 gear loops too. Not sure when it will be available though.

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In reply to Paul Sagar:

Having reviewed the options, and given that I want something that can be used in the mountains and Scottish winter (assuming I can ever actually walk that far again) I'm now leaning heavily towards the Black Diamond Technician. 

Thanks all!

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 McKEuan 11:23 Mon
In reply to mattck:

Not quite yet!

It's being released next spring, kept the core principal, 7 gear loops, 4 points of adjustment. Have added a huge mesh panel in the waist to make it super breathable!

and still black and orange. hopefully add some more details soon! Also a new superlight sport harness!

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In reply to McKEuan:

Just saw a video for this 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_1RCr1zKMs&feature=emb_title

it does look really good!

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 McKEuan 14:53 Mon
In reply to Paul Sagar:

That's the one! Worth noting that for production it won't say air mesh on the waist band!!

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