UKC

Hi

So I'm bad a training unless it's fun, really not dedicated. I find it easier to commit to the boring stuff when I can at least pull on some midweek plastic, but I'm still not using indoor walls and I'm at least 1.5 hours from any trad/sport. So my current home training options are:

1) A fingerboard with a pulley next to it

2) 5 rung campus board at 12°

3) Mini symetrical system board 9' x 4' (the covid-board) mainly homemade wooden crimps and pinches, variable from 20° to 35°

Any tips my best bet for PE and Endurance training? I'm still able to onsight british 6a tech, bouldering 6C - 7A after practice and onsight 7a sport (maybe 7a+/b on a slate slab) but am pumping out and failing to recover on harder routes.

PE training on a finger board is mindbendingly boring imo. So how best to simulate 4 x 4's on the system board or Campus rungs? Times reps on the campus boar or a timed set sequence repeated on the system board?

Thanks

Have you tried sticking a film on whilst you do PE on the hangboard? Has worked for me in the past.

Thanks, though not really an option with our setup.

I screwed a single joint edge (20mm deep by 80mm long) to a piece of plywood (80x130mm, threaded a piece of cord through a hole in the ply and hang weights off to do AeroCap and AeroPow sessions  (30%-50% max) . I can do sessions anywhere with this setup, though preferably in front of the TV to alleviate the boredom.