UKC

Hey up,

Can anyone explain the facilities at the different climbing walls in Leeds?

I've been looking for somewhere near Huddersfield that's equivalent to Kendal, i.e. with decent lead walls, some autobelays and good bouldering.

Unfortunately, The Depot websites are, in my view, pretty lacking in that they don't really tell you about their actual facilities. I've just about divined that Pudsley is bouldering only. What's the Gelard road site like? Does it have decent bouldering, as well as lead walls, and are there any autobelays?

Also, are there any better walls near Huddersfield? I've only visited Freeklime (bouldering den) so far.

Thanks very much in advance!

The Big Depot on gelderd road has quite a large bouldering section.  Slabs to steep roof and vert wall. It has 5 auto belays with grades up to about 7a on them. Got a cafe in it and a decent ish shop that sells food and coffee etc too as sometimes the cafe is closed. 
I would say an in all it’s a pretty good venue. 

Ta, that's helpful thanks! Any idea how high the walls are? They look quite short (12m)?

Main lead wall is pretty girthy. Has routes from 9mtrs to at least 15mtr. Can't remember exactly how big the main lead wall is!! There is going to be a 3rd Depot in Leeds soon as well.

The main overhang lead wall is about 18-20 meters I would say. The auto belay walls differ in height and are shorter as they arent on the main lead wall. I’ve never thought they were too short though. The new depot is going to be a dedicated bouldering wall and gym. No routes. 

There are some autobelays and a few routes at The Hub in Bradford.  It’s mainly bouldering though.

Rokt at Brighouse would have suited.  Unfortunately they’re closed to the public after being flooded twice, then impacted by COVID.

Big Depot is really the main venue for routes.

Thanks all. Good to know. 18-20m sounds reasonable. It sounds worth checking out. I might end up checking out Stockport and Sheffield as well, though from Huddersfield they're a massive trek for plastic. I hadn't realised I was so spoilt having Kendal within 30 mins.

The Big depot is what used to be the Leeds Wall. The bouldering is improved, the toilets are cleaner but the roped walls are pretty much how they've always been with a couple of extra auto belays. So you might be able to find more pictures of the facilities by looking for that.

Didn't know the Depot were opening another wall. Any ideas where? Otley would be nice.

Also I might be misremembering I didn't think there were any routes at the big depot/leeds wall you couldn't do off a 30m rope so 13-14m tops? Please verify this before anyone takes that at face value on a 30m rope.

14m is the maximum height at the big depot so a 30m rope is fine for all areas. 

Rumored to be in Armley last I heard. Never had a problem at Big on the main wall with a 30m rope but if anyone has cut both ends off theirs I would ask at the desk and put a knot in the end.

Could be worth looking at the Parthian in Harrogate if you're after a lead wall? (Rather than bouldering only).

Big depot. Reliable power-endurance routes, rarely cruxy, suited to training for sport climbing. Grading OK. Bouldering an afterthought. Lots of young wads and strong older people.

Depot Pudsey. Consistently engaging classic setting, low walls, focus on finger strength as problems get harder. Mixed friendly vibe. Older but good training facilities. 

City Bloc. Good quality mixture of classic and 'competition' setting, most reliable in Leeds, regularly reset. Mixed friendly vibe. Good training facilities (kilter, spray, moon). 

Lab. Big space but consistently poor setting, holds suffer from rosin polish from liquid chalk and rarely reset. Friendly but mostly full of beginners in rental shoes. Now has a gym (with nobody in it).

Last sun dance. Mostly gymnastic / comp setting (of a mixed bag). Suffers from hold polish. Mostly super edgy students - and has alcohol license so full of drunk non-climbers all weekend. Tendancy to have a 'dj' turned up so loud that the drinkers outside can party (but nobody inside can think let alone climb). Started good but now a victim of image. Good gym.

Honorary mention - Harrogate Wall. Short, often cruxy lead routes with quite soft (potentially erratic?) grading (7a Hgt = 6b+ big depot). Regularly reset but small bouldering. Friendly vibe. Don't eat at the restaurant they have food hygiene issues. 

There's a new wall opened in Oldham which isn't too bad to get to from Huddersfield so I am told and, again from what friends have told me, fits your requirements for lead/auto belays/bouldering.

Thanks for this run-down, it's very helpful.

I went to the Big Depot today for a bit of endurance training by myself, as my endurance has disappeared over the last two years. I think that the grading is pretty spot on, with a few slightly challenging for the grade and a few slightly soft and a few a bit lanky, but most creating good movement with quite a lot of fun rockovers and deadpoints. I agree that the bouldering is a bit of an after thought. I'm also pretty sure nothing is longer than 12m, including the main wall, but was pleasantly surprised to find 6 autobelays, which helped keep the session interesting. The holds are getting a bit worn, in places. I also thought their "competence" check on the door was a bit undone by the lack of a staff floor walker: some of the belaying I saw today was very dangerous. But, generally a decent and pleasant wall.

I might check out Parthian, but it's quite a long way if the routes are still only c.12m. I hear good things about Stockport!

Yeah I mean I've climbed pretty extensively @ depot with a 25m and never died so it can't be that high.

Hgt is 10 tops.