UKC

I stopped climbing early in the year when the first lockdown started. I reckon it'll be a few months at least before I start again, making that a year or so. I've been finger boarding two or three times a week, but only short sessions on larger holds to keep a base fitness, I usually combine this with press ups to balance things out. I've kept my weight in check, too. What's the opinion on time it will take to return to former climbing ability (I'll be doing 3 indoor sessions a week)? Keep in mind I'm mid 50s. Indoors I was previously redpointing about 7a on a good day when the elbows weren't an issue.

In reply to wurzelinzummerset:

I would guess around 4 weeks.  For the first 2 weeks train twice a week, then 3 times the second 2 weeks. I would concentrate on lead rope endurance routes.

In reply to wurzelinzummerset:

Sorry to be that bloke, but does it matter? I did none for the first lockdown and no exercises either, it took a month or so, but it was just nice to be climbing again, I've been climbing better than ever grade-wise, but the spell off has made me reconsider why I thought grades were a driver. I'm trying to be more efficient and smoother at the moment, and simply enjoying it. I'm also teaching someone, which is really nice or at least I was until we moved up a tier.

I found there was little difference in my grade, maybe a grade down, so 6a+, but lost my stamina to climbing all day was too much.

In reply to Cobra_Head:

Well, first off I'm not obsessed by grades, and do enjoy climbing stuff well within my modest ability. I went to Spain last year and climbed several very easy routes which I really enjoyed, but I haven't put them in my UKC logbook as I stopped logging sports climbs under 6a because most UK ones locally aren't up to much when compared to what's on offer above 6a and into the 7s. So, that leads into part of the motivation in that the routes generally get better as you go higher in the grades, at least where I climb in the southwest. Next point is that I like to be as good as reasonably possible at the things I do (although I accept I'm not a particularly good climber in absolute terms, but relative gains are satisfying), and as I get older then age will increasingly put a cap on how much more I can improve. I'd like to be able to redpoint 7b but I think I'm up against the clock, and yes I know loads of older climbers climb a lot harder than that but most of them built up the ability when younger.  Next point, in relation to indoor climbs, at the wall where I climb I love the steepest overhanging section where you have to climb fast and precisely, where any small error will result in a fall. It's a real buzz because it's very physical in a power endurance kind of way, plus you know once you start a route at your limit then you're committing to a very likely fall, quite often unexpectedly, and sometimes when clipping (having first assessed any dubious clips are high enough). The grades on that section usually start at 6c+.

Does that answer your question?

In reply to Steve Claw:

Thanks for the opinion, I was thinking the same about the endurance side of it from what I've seen of others who've taken time out before. 4 weeks seems good. Let's hope you're right.

In reply to wurzelinzummerset:

I'm in a very similar position but early 60s.  I stopped going to the wall in mid March and only climbed outside once all year with a long weekend to Pembroke.  My fitness was well down by then but I was very pleased to find that my route finding, gear placement and general climbing skills were still not to rusty.  I started using the wall again in December, on auto belay session to find how weak I was then exclusively on circuit boards.  Circuit board sessions have been brilliant for me: an initial warm up then a circuit I can only just do followed by trying to link sections on circuits I can't do.  Over a few weeks my circuit board grade has increased greatly.  As well as improving finger strength shoulders have been helped a lot by extensions in the down parts of the circuits etc.  Circuit boards also seem to be less busy than other areas.  I've been training at approx 3 day intervals, sometimes 2 or 4 based on how my fingers feel, ie if they've recovered enough to avoid injury.

In reply to wurzelinzummerset:

You don't need to have started young to climb 7b in your fifties. Just find one locally that you like, have a session on it, and you'll know what you need to go away and do. Where in Somerset are you? There's some at Brean which is nice in the winter. Or if you can wait until spring then torbryan and Ansteys have some great ones. I can't think of the good Cheddar 7b off the top of my head but there must be loads. 

I reckon avoiding the really steep routes at the wall will set you up better for UK 7b. Not many if them involve much jug pulling, stick to the smaller holds. 

In reply to GDes:

I didn't actually say in my post that I believe you need to have started young to climb 7b, just that lots of people who climb harder than that at over 50 would have developed that at a younger age (40s downwards). I was indicating that the older you get the harder it becomes, so I want to get on with things as soon as I can. Anyway, you still make a good point. I've tried 7bs at Brean and at the wall, by the way, just out of curiosity, as when I was last climbing regularly 7a+ was the target, but every time I'd get close it would be either a finger pulley or an elbow and then finally covid. I agree about the steep wall routes not reflecting the situation outside locally, but I like climbing them.

In reply to wurzelinzummerset:

If you've been finger boarding 2 or 3 times a week, even on big holds, you might find you're better than when you stopped! A few sessions to get back into moving on rock again and you'll be cruising. 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Let's hope so! It also has the advantage that my elbows now feel 100% fine, something I've not experienced for several years.

In reply to kevin stephens:

Thanks for the reply. I'm glad you're climbing again.

Well "form is temporary but class is permanent" as someone famous possibly said once. 

In reply to wurzelinzummerset:

Well done on all the finger boarding. I'm sure that will have helped. Give yourself 6 months to return to full fitness. Endurance will probably return in about 4 weeks but finger boarding for a year plus 4 weeks of easy endurance does not equal 7a fitness. Obviously every body is different but you can't escape the fact that injuries are harder to get over the older you are, so you want to avoid that at all costs. 

In reply to wurzelinzummerset:

I agree with others, build up steadily but you'll likely find the consistent fingerboarding has maintained a lot of forearm specific strength so you'll be back at it fairly swiftly. 

You could also consider raising the intensity/structure of the fingerboard sessions now with an eye to coming back i.e. some max hang sessions and some repeater sessions. 

In reply to Isabelle Booker:

6 months?! That's a bit pessimistic I think. I've gone from a 6.month break back to near top form in a month or so. If you've been ticking over with finger boarding I can't imagine it taking long at all. 

In reply to wurzelinzummerset: Reference point - I'm in my 50's also.  I fingerboarded and bouldered outdoors so when I went back on a wall the holds seemed huge but I had horrible endurance.

Pick your 7a  carefully and I'd agree it won't take long.  I'd have thought that a year of finger boarding plus 4 weeks endurance can equal quite a lot

Thanks for the replies. So looks like once I re-start then 4 weeks or so to be nearly there, but then a bit longer to optimise would be what I can hope for. That seems fine.