I've settled on bouldering on a 30 degree board as my strength training thing. Done it 2-3 times a week this winter and seen modest improvement, and I quite enjoy it.
Sometimes, due to when weather/work/commitments fall, I end up wanting to have sessions 2 days or more on the bounce. Not always board sessions, sometimes routes. Now obviously, some days are better than others, but what's the right thing to do on a bad day?
Say, I did a bouldering sessions yesterday and I've got time to do a 90min session today. I warm up, pull onto a familiar problem and fall straight off. Then again. Hmmm, this is going to be crap, I think.
- Question 1: Should I sack it off and go home, as I'm not fresh and just wasting my time and inviting injury? Or maybe switch to an endurance/circuits session instead? Or is there still benefit in the session even if I'm doing quite shit?
Now, I've focused more on the bouldering so far this winter because I usually have stacks of low-intensity endurance and can hang on to routes for hours without making much upward progress, even when they're steep and pumpy. Seems to me that more power and maybe PE are needed to get to the top of trad routes without grinding to a halt at a hard bit (more willingness to go for it with uncertain outcome, would also help), hence the board bouldering.
But now it seems like time to switch focus from bouldering to routes/circuits so I'm dead fit when the trad season begins.
- Question 2: From now on, I reckon I'll do a session of 4x4 routes, a session of "route pottering" (long 25m routes, short redpoint routes, whatever's up at the wall), 4x4 circuit sessions (short/PE), and carry on with a board session a week. But this seems like a total unstructured mess that's not really focused on anything (fits with partners and stuff). Is this mishmash of endurance/PE/strength workouts pretty much ideal for the totally variable world of trad, or do I need to periodise different stuff to get the benefits of training?
Given that trad climbing is so dependent on committing under pressure, faith in gear, etc, I suspect I'm over-thinking the whole thing, and so long as I do *something* 3x a week, it'll make barely any difference what it is...
Thanks for any thought on this.
Post edited at 14:10