/ distribution of load between feet and hands
A graph of the first 8 (look closely as some are nearly on top of each other) data points is here:
Although not enough data to draw a conclusion, I think the results indicate that this is worth continuing.
Yes, looks encouraging for your hypothesis.
The wall was about 15deg overhanging
Looks good, and probably has enough data points for a medical thesis.....
Nowhere near enough points to draw any conclusion. One practically always gets quite a good correlation (from a random spread) with only about half a dozen points.
1. there are 8 points
2. I have not done the stats, but I would guess that with 8 points one might expect a negative slope say 1/3 or the time, a positive slope 1/3 and a mess 1/3. So we are some way from random already.
3. If you look at the data closely, you will see the force increases with grade in ALL cases - this type of relationship is very far from random and quite hard to get with random data (10% of the time with 8 points?). So I think we should not go claiming anything, but I do think it reasonable to suggest it is worth continuing the measurements.
Don't get me wrong. I am encouraging you to get more points. There may well be a valid trend.
I know that it's really difficult, but if this were to become a bigger study, it would seem valuable to have some kind of measure of core strength. I suspect that having a strong core (whatever that actually means) helps force the weight onto the feet, and it would be valuable to test whether this correlates better with proportion of force applied to feet then grade. I hear a lot about core, but it's not clear (at least to me) which aspects translate best to climbing and how important it is to have a stronger core versus using better technique to apply the existing core strength maximally.
Thanks! I'll keep you posted.
I think you have hit the nail on the head. if the relationship holds true, we need to know if this is because of core strength, or skill.
If core, then train core
If skill, the training core will not solve the problem, but there might be an educational short cut. Possibly using feedback from the rig to help someone.
As we are unlikely to find 8a climbers with a weak core, there is a bit of an issue. However we might be able to work with those working in the 6a/b range. Any idea how to measure core strength is a climbing relevant way?
I think the problem is that we probably don't know what core strength is actually required for climbing. I suspect you might need to develop a set up to measure this. One quick answer may be using something like a pull up bar and two footholds at a set distance away. Weight could be added to a harness until the person is unable to keep their feet on the footholds.
Also, I'm not sure why you want to work with people in such a narrow grade range. I would have thought that to test your theory, you would want as large a grade range as possible.
>Any idea how to measure core strength is a climbing relevant way?
I was about to say time a "plank" to failure then it occurred, for what you are doing, a "reverse plank" might be more appropriate...
I wonder if doing anything to failure is testing endurance rather than strength.
> Also, I'm not sure why you want to work with people in such a narrow grade range. I would have thought that to test your theory, you would want as large a grade range as possible.
For the main question I'm working with the full range of 6a to 8a.
For the question of core strength the problem is that there might not be any 7b to 8a climbers with a weak core. So using 6a to 6b or so might show a realitively greater range
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