UKC

My girlfriend is newer to fingerboarding/climbing than I and would be better off with a 1K - but we own a 2K.

Anyone put together some nice repeater style workouts for the 2K for those who aren't climbing quite so hard?

She's bouldering around F6b/c max currently.

Can happily come up with something myself but I thought it'd be interesting to see what other folk use?

In reply to MischaHY:
Put some aaa batteries in the 2 large slots and do 5 seconds on 5 seconds off x 5 5 sets with 2 minutes between sets. Add weight if it's too easy.

In reply to MischaHY:
She could always just look at it from her desk like me. Admittedly, I often find that a bit too much what with the glare from the window and all. I've defo climbed harder than font6b just doing this. I do occasionally touch it on the way to the bathroom, mainly to get dust off, got asthma you see. Not sure if this helps but worth a try.

In reply to webbo:


Sounds good - This is what is on the Crusher website as an intro to finger boarding vimeo.com/186431199
Having witnessed Paul's finger strength in action at Longridge, I can confirm it's a good place to start!

The 555 methodology is easy to program into the "Nojo" hang-timer app too:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=air.com.nojo.hangtimer&hl...

In reply to MischaHY:

Could she do weight assisted versions of the harder routines?

In reply to webbo:

Does that make them vibrate? like those vibrating plate things you can stand or sit on down the fitness gyms, ... supposed to have some conditioning benefits too..... could be onto something here, a vibrating zlag board?

In reply to snoop6060:

I've had mine for 6 months now, + am still trying to get motivated to build a frame to hang it on. I made some progress yesterday, took the box it comes from to the recycling place, a sign that i am interested in hoping to get on with it at some point soon maybe....

In reply to Rock to Fakey:


Are you meaning does that make batteries vibrate? No is doesn't the idea is to make the slot smaller but not as small as the slots at the bottom outside corner ones.

In reply to webbo:
Apologies i thought there was a deluxe electric model

In reply to webbo:

Sounds good, keep it simple. I might chuck in a bit of hold variation as she could do with better recruitment on pockets etc. Maybe alternate sets of four finger half crimp, three finger open and 35 slopers and see how she gets on. She benchmarked 77% bodyweight on the lattice test so looking to improve that over the next few months.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Nice one, I'll check it out.

In reply to MischaHY:

1. If you've got a mobile device there's beastmaker app with different workouts for different ability levels.

2. You could reduce tension using a resistance band, old inner tube or a pulley/weight system

3. Simply add a strip of wood with a rounded edge to your existing setup. A 35mm edge with about 5mm radius edge (sand or plane it down) would be appropriate for most things. If you can't find the right size you can always add thickness to the wood using strips of hardboard or thin plywood sheet.

In reply to stp:


Ha, yeah. Ever tried the Beastmaker 2K workouts? Even the 6C has you doing repeaters on front two on small pockets.