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Eva Lopez progression / Beastmaker 1000

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 purple sue 26 Dec 2020

I'm just getting a basic home training facility built; few hangboards, that sort of thing, and will be looking to invest in a Beastmaker 1000, new or second hand (already have a 2000) . Also interested in adding an Eva Lopez progression board. Has anyone used one of these much, either now or in the past or could vouch for effectiveness? Think they were pretty expensive from memory? I'm hoping for some different boards to ring the changes and monitor progress. Thanks.

 1poundSOCKS 27 Dec 2020
In reply to purple sue:

> Has anyone used one of these much, either now or in the past or could vouch for effectiveness?

They have one at Pudsey Depot which I used in the past. I liked it providing you want to half crimp because the edge is very sharp, not good for dragging. And it's got a very rough texture.

EDIT: as far as effectiveness goes, at my level there are more important considerations than what board you use. I had some of my best gains using a couple of campus rungs during the first lockdown. 

Post edited at 08:26
 douwe 27 Dec 2020
In reply to purple sue:

I'm using the beastmaker 1000 for fingerboarding. Actually I'm mostly if not only using the 20mm slot on the lowest rung which is a pretty standard edge size for fingerboarding. The rest is just for warming up, few pull ups etc.

Two fingerboards sounds kind of overkill to me. I would say it is perfectly possible to do a full fingerboard workout on just a single 20 mm edge. Different grip types (isolating fingers) or adding weight will get you pretty far.

Using a blocker on the 20mm edge will make it possible to decrease the edge size if nessecary.

Having said that I find the beastmaker really nice on the skin and I also enjoy having the two huge jugs for pull ups. I wouldn't want to have a resin board since it'll be hard on the skin especially in combination with indoor climbing on resin holds.

I think the most important thing with fingerboarding is finding a good programm which suits your goals and targets your weaknesses. The type of board you do the exercise on comes secondary.

Post edited at 10:22
 LucaC 27 Dec 2020
In reply to purple sue:

I've used all three: Eva Lopez and the 1000/2000 from Beastmaker.

If you've got weights, the Lopez documents and time to really get to grips with the protocol it's by far the best fingerboard training scheme you can do. You can easily train back 3/front 2/any combo on the Eva Lopez edges if you need to work on something specific.

Beastmaker plus the Beastmaker app will however be a good workout, especially if your fingers are generally weak. An 'all around' training scheme will work wonders. Ignore the given grades and how they relate to your climbing, just find out what level of Beastmaker you're at and work up from there. I find the 2000 a bit too specialised for general finger fitness. 

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In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

> They have one at Pudsey Depot which I used in the past. I liked it providing you want to half crimp because the edge is very sharp, not good for dragging. And it's got a very rough texture.

The instructions for my Lopez board (a Transgression) suggested a few rubs with sandpaper to make it less harsh.  I overdid it - my fingerboard has the character of polished lime - more skin-friendly but can feel like Teflon when it's warm or humid.

OP purple sue 27 Dec 2020

In reply: Many thanks for all your input everyone (and Duncan!)

Some useful considerations to bear in mind for me.

 redjerry 28 Dec 2020
In reply to purple sue:

I live in a very dry climate, so I don't know if/how this would apply in the UK. 
I find that my performance really varies drastically (and unpredictably) on my wooden fingerboard depending on temperature, humidity and skin condition. This makes it really difficult to choose appropriate intensity on a day-to-day basis. I like the easy-on-the-skin nature of the wood and also think that the low friction is probably better for making you work harder, but I do feel that the lack of consistency has a negative effect on the training value.

 Sean_J 28 Dec 2020
In reply to purple sue:

The Eva Lopez board is great. It grates Parmesan faster than either of the Beastmaker boards, and it's great on wash day down by the river too. Highly recommended (not)

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 MischaHY 28 Dec 2020
In reply to purple sue:

What sort of space do you have available? All things considered you may be better served with  =a campus board or woody if you've got room. More than one fingerboard is unnecessary IMO. Stick to wood - the Lopez boards are like cheesegraters on the skin so not exactly ideal except in a gym environment where they get properly bedded in. 

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