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FC week 600!

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 AJM 16 Sep 2018

Well, week 600 is here. Another milestone down! Last week to report what you’ve been up to for FC600, and I’ll do a roundup in next weeks edition.

 

I have a question: does anyone want to do it all over again? We have, of course, another notable milestone looming. This could be that time to set yourself a devishly difficult goal, horribly hard, something requiring terrifying tenacity, something of unholy difficulty - yes, I’m thinking week 666...

Let me know if you’re keen. It’s basically an end-19 goal when all’s said and done, but it offers the opportunity for some good punning.

Just another admin note - I’ll need to pass the baton on for the post which would be started on Oct 14th as that’s when I’m on holiday. So if you’re keen then do shout up.

-#-#-#-#-#

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_599-6925...

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

AJM

Powderpuff - glad to hear it! Just take it steady and keep plugging away and you’ll be crimping razor blades again before you know it!

mrchewy - floating up crimps and getting spanked on jugs sounds like you’re a knarly outdoor type to me! How’s the boat going? A few weeks in Font is always going to be good....

Hms - eventual grade verdict? Nice job! You don’t fancy moving to a different venue then, just shuffling along it backwards.....!

the sheep - how does sub-2 relate to previous bests? Looks like the mileage is coming along well...

Tyler - floor sanding sounds horrible. We keep thinking about getting some carpets taken up, but I’m not sure I’d want to then deal with the floor underneath myself! Have you got anything in mind for Siurana?

Tom Green - have you got the alpine trips in the diary for those objectives yet? Big ticks both!

AlanLittle - congratulations! Good tick and sounds like a good route to boot

Ally Smith - liked the videos. With a big few ticks achieved this year, what’s next on the cards for you? Limestone season must roll to an end soon, have you got big winter or longer term objectives to focus training on? 

mattrm - glad you’re feeling a bit more energised, it’s horrible that state isn’t it. Enjoy Scarborough, hope you get some climbing in...

Dandan82 - enjoy Kaly!

biscuit - looking at your pre-trip goals, you don’t seem to have done too bad. How long last week600 do you have until the big day?

guy127917 - enjoy the alps - whereabouts?

Planetmarshall - so, did you get on the Rasp then?

Ardo - any joy on the great outdoors this week?

Cyan - skydiving? Getting into some new stuff then? And was that a day trip to Pembroke?

alexm198 - weekend trips to the alps remind me of the kind of dedication that weekend Scotland trips in the car used to demand back in the day. You’ve really got to be keen. How did round 1go?

Pineappledog - welcome! What/where is the project?

Richard Popp - climbing always going to be tough when your heads somewhere else. I’m sure it’ll be back. How did you find Saturday getting out?

Bones - have fun in Aus!

 

Fit Club 600 goals:

AJM - some DWS (Gates of Greyskull, Crazy Notion, Z-Cars, Crab Party, Freeborn Man, Window of Opportunity, Rainbow Bridge pt1), some E2/3 (2x E2), 10/13 weeks of consistent weekday training (failed by now)

Dandan82 - 6000s handstand (5432/6000), +60kg pull-up (tick!), 6 fr7 onsights in a day, 60s handstand (51)

Richard Popp - a new 7a

Ally Smith - 8b/+ x2 (1/2), 8a/+ x5 (3/5), 7b-c+ x10 (7/10)

Si dH - Ancap routine at recommended load (75-ish/80)

Planetmarshall - E2 onsight

Tom Green - 600m new route in Kyrgyzstan (Tick!!!)

Rebecca Ting - more DWS (splash splash sploshing away), Animal Mag (tick!), something in Cham (Petit Aig Verte and Cosmiques), solid base of E1-3, convincing handstand (tick)...

Tyler - 6 new routes (4/6),  6 new >E1 (0/6), 6 crags that you’ve not visited in the last decade (1/6)

biscuit - Trowbarrow traverse (tick!), black circuit (progressing), 11% body fat (11.3%), Fiesta-at-Kendal (tick)

 

 AlanLittle 16 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy

STG (29th September): Flash my mates's project in the Frankenjura
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

Five weeks to Kaly, and just lost most of a week's training week to illness. Don't panic: early tapering strategy!

M: Rest
T: Recurrence of last week's sore throat & general crapness. Skipped a planned wall session.
W: Ditto. Skipped wall session again & went to bed 
T: Still feeling somewhat crap, but managed to summon up the energy for some max hangs while watching the speed climbing farcestream.
F: Still not fully well. Avoided the temptation to train anyway by tootling down to Innsbruck to watch the women's bouldering final. Good call, enjoyed it immensely. Setters finally came up with something hard enough to slow Janja & Akiyo down.
S: Feeling considerably better but still not 100%; resisting the temptation to immediately rush to the wall. An hour stretching, mobility, shoulders whilst watching the men's bouldering final (on youtube this time)
S: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Forty minutes bouldering to warm up, then ten rounds of ancap circuits. Start of the big pre-Kaly Ancap beat-up.

 hms 16 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

The thing with the traverse is that I don't have to wait for the whole weather, partner, no family/other commitments commitments triumverate to come together (esp as you know how dreadful I am at sticking my neck out and asking anyone other than my few close but geographically scattered climbing friends to climb).

M - cycle commute. FB 10/3/5/4 x6 with +6kg (a pb). Yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. Route session with D2 in full psychocoach mode. Did the 14 routes in pairs in about an hour less than normal (she wanted to be back home in time for BakeOff!). Utterly knackered. It was 3rd day on, mind.
W - cycle commute. Core session.
T - FB 5/10/5/3 x6 up to +22kg (a pb)
F - 2 miles urban walking. TCA hour of power. I find this session very tiring and frustrating as I tend to make negligable progress on the problems I choose. Tried 2 steep and 2 flat. Shoulder unhappy by the end so Is Ys Ts and other prehab stuff in evening.
S - shoulder fine. Back to TCA. Boulder 4x4s although a bit busy so had to be a little pointy elbowed. Lunch then lattice in lieu of having access to any FoC facility at the moment. Didn't follow the precise protocol as that seems to take 2 people plus 2 stopwatches, so I just did time then rest for same time x8. First round was 2.40, last was 1.05. Going at a steady pace too so that final set was still twice round plus a move or two. nb it's a 20degree board.
S - taking D2 back to uni so much carrying of boxes but no other exercise as such.

 Tyler 16 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

> floor sanding sounds horrible. We keep thinking about getting some carpets taken up, but I’m not sure I’d want to then deal with the floor underneath myself!

I'd definitely get a quote from a professional, I saw someone advertising from £17m2, it'll probably cost me nearly that in varnish, hire costs and sanding disks/belts but I was impatient to get on with it and here's a send of satisfaction looking at the results (I hope).

>Have you got anything in mind for Siurana?

It depends on my ankle but the trip organiser is motivated by Mandragora and as I've tried that on two previous trips I'll be disappointed if I don't finally do it this trip.

Can't remember exactly what I did but had at least three sessions at BUK when I either deadhung or did some FoC or tried unsuccessfully to combine the two. Had a minor success tonight when I managed to complete the BM 1k 7a session with only some minor failures (last set of crimps and second set of slopers).

Needless to say I got nowhere on my 600 goals (due to injury) but made minor progress on my revised goal of sitting back on my heels.

OP AJM 16 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

> AJM - some DWS (Gates of Greyskull, Crazy Notion, Z-Cars, Crab Party, Freeborn Man, Window of Opportunity, Rainbow Bridge pt1), some E2/3 (2x E2), 10/13 weeks of consistent weekday training (failed by now)

Well, my progress against FC600 was distinctly tilted.

- DWS, I did almost everything I'd hoped to do, which given my usual eyes-vs-stomach mismatch is obviously far more than I might reasonably have expected to do. I mean sure, I could have done a bit more, especially at Swanage where I didn't do quite so well, and Devon where I got quality but maybe not so much quantity, but in the round this was a big old tick.

- trad, I did a bit, but I just didn't prioritise it enough. I got carried away soloing, and then had a few trips fall through in the last few weekends when I'd hoped to get out. A few E2s, but certainly nothing big. 

- training was lowest on the priority list and got shunted out of the way by everything else. I got more mileage in than I'd hoped outdoors and I didn't have the energy or motivation to do more. I've also been putting off doing anything foc because of trying to ignore my elbow. 

My real goal horizon has a few weeks left to run, and there's time in the calendar for a bit more climbing yet, so I may squeeze in my chance.

I had a good wall session this week. And I tried some weights on Friday but that seems to have strained something in my shoulder so I am taking it easy until that stops hurting.

Post edited at 21:12
 Pineappledog 16 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

The project is Exo6 (7a+), I quoted project since I spent the summer going to a lot of different places once and having jumped a grade over the winter and another over the spring/summer indoors I have been jumping on lots of fun looking routes within that range but not sending them as I was mostly just taking one run at them, so I jumped on this one(upgraded to 7a+ since the second rest hold has disappeared in the latest guidebook) to see how it went since Masson Lees is my local crag. On the second session having a go at it I got about 4 moves from the pseudo-finish(the last 4 metres or so is more like f5) so hoping for a day of nice weather on a day I am free this week to go send it!

STG: Send 7a+ "project" I spent a couple of sessions on (weather permitting)

MTG: Create and get into a structured routine of training for the winter 

LTG: See how far into the f8s I can get

M: Went to boulder, worked some problems at my limit, gym is freshly opened so grading likely to hit and miss at first but did five V5-7 problems.

T: Rest

W: Went to local wall, after my disappointment with the ungraded routes session on Sunday, I felt a lot better to see the routes I struggled with were harder than I thought, had a good session, flashed two 6c and worked moves on a new 7a.

T: Rest

F: Local wall, new routes were up on overhangs, flashed all new routes upto 6b+.

S: Rest

S: Local wall(again), short on time, warmed up then jumped on the 7a I had been working, fluffed the sequence for the crux I had worked out so was a little disappointed.

Been doing a bit of reading regarding the goal of getting into a structured training routine but have been a little flooded by the vast amounts of training sessions, ideas and plans that I need to work out what to prioritise. Given my schedule for the coming months I am looking at something similar to...

M: Local wall or boulder gym- Some form of Endurance/Power endurance

T: Rest

W: Local wall, more social session with group of friends, possibly work a hard route

T: boulder gym - core/mobility

F: boulder gym - Thinking work some hard boulders for strength training

S+S: One day rest and the other climbing with couple of friends who are unavailable in week - can be any form of session as they will go with the flow with any training.

I am open to any suggestions or critique, I have access to boulder gym any day of the week but will always be at the wall on a Wednesday and my available time to climb on thursday/friday means I will have to use the boulder gym those days.

 Tom Green 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

Hi All. Thanks AJM. 

A bit of a crap week... two days of work, one day of being disorganised and one day of life plus driving left it a three day training week. Giving myself a wrist slap. Must try harder next week. 

Last Week:

M: Bouldering at Grinshill. Fun session with half a dozen problems up to (English) 5c, plus worked an awesome little project problem (Font6b). Fingers felt tired. 

T: 60 min Z1. Trail run, 9.9km, moderately hilly and techy. 

W: Big work day

T: Disorganised so unintentional rest. 

F: Long work day

S: Core and general strength (some progressions, but shoulder slightly sore). 95 min Z1. Hill walk.

S: Life stuff then drive to Swanage.

So a bit crap, but managed to hit Z1 target and had a fun bouldering sesh  

Next Week:

150 Z1

Short Z3

2 Core Sesh

2 General Strength sesh

A few good climbing days  

 

 

 Tom Green 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

Loving the idea of 666 goals. 

I’ll get thinking up a Machiavellian goal for next week!

OP AJM 17 Sep 2018
In reply to Pineappledog:

With the training plan, what do you want from it and by when?

Your STG sounds like you just need time, your MTG is to make a plan and your LTG, getting as far into the 8s as possible, is fairly open ended.

If you wanted to get out and push up the 7s next year, that's a different plan to if you're not too fussed about beimg the best you cam be next year and are instead thinking of the 2-3 year horizon and the big Fr8 goal (forgive me if I'm underestimating you but I'm assuming a current 7a+ project even if it's just one you need to commit to means the 8s are probably not next year in your mind?).

 planetmarshall 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

> Planetmarshall - so, did you get on the Rasp then?

Sigh. No.

Last week's goals - 

* Fitclub 600 goal : The Rasp (E2 5b). Pencilled this in for Thu eve if I can find a willing belayer. Might warm up (!) on The File (VS 4c) which will tick one of my route goals.
* 5 hours Z1. Get out to Wales or the Lakes for at least one long mountain session.
* Keep up the Strength and Conditioning sessions. These are going pretty well.
* Resume yoga. Have been letting this slide a bit.

The magic combination of conditions, venue and a suitable belayer didn't line up last week. Pencilled in Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b) as an alternative goal for Friday but then that was a wash-out.

Got one of my route goals, The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a) as a consolation prize. Found it surprisingly easy and even managed to mantel the top out - makes me think I should have made an effort to get on The Rasp after all.

Wed - Trail run, Hayfield. 50min/5.5k/159m 

Thu - Max Strength. Core. Weighted wide pullups, Box step, DB Inclined Press and deadlift.

Fri - AW Sheffield. Mostly easy routes at 6a

Sat - Trail Run. Stanage. 2h14/16k/432m. The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a)

Sun  - AeroCap Boulder Intervals at the Manchester Depot. 2 sets 20 problems (blue) every minute on the minute. Hard.

STG

* 5.5 hours Z1. Get at least some of this done in the early part of the week.
* Keep up the AeroCap with a view to tackling the Rasp at the beginning of October or thereabouts.
* Continue the Max Strength work
* Some E1 mileage
* Brown's Elliminate if time permits.

MTG

 * Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
 * The Rasp (E2 5b)
 * Ama Dablam Nov 2018 - now booked

 - Routes : 

The File (VS 4c)
Suicide Wall (HVS 5b)
The Hen Cloud HVSs
The Left Unconquerable (E1 5b)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)

- Problems

Crescent Arête (f5+)
Banana Finger (f6A)

LTG

- US/Canada trip in Winter 2018

BHAG

London Wall (E5 6a)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

 

OP AJM 17 Sep 2018
In reply to hms:

> esp as you know how dreadful I am at sticking my neck out and asking anyone other than my few close but geographically scattered climbing friends to climb

You should try to set something up with Dave.....

OP AJM 17 Sep 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

> Loving the idea of 666 goals. 

> I’ll get thinking up a Machiavellian goal for next week!

I warn you I'm setting a high bar for relevance - my next superclassic tick at Lulworth is Mark of the Beast (7c)

!!

 planetmarshall 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

> I warn you I'm setting a high bar for relevance - my next superclassic tick at Lulworth is Mark of the Beast (7c)

> !!

Revelations (8b) surely an appropriate tick for some strong folk. Revelation (E1 5b) is a bit more my speed...

 the sheep 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

> the sheep - how does sub-2 relate to previous bests? Looks like the mileage is coming along well...

Cheers, previous PB was 2.04 back in February. Haven't tried the distance again since then though as duathlons/triathlons had been the focus. Anyway one of lifes speed-bumps put pay to last week in the form of a nasty dose of the lurgy. Swam Monday and struggled to swim Tuesday. Rest of the week spent off work and no training

 

 

In reply to AJM:

Hi All,

Decided to get involved with the fit club to stay psyched.  My long term goal is the climb a font 8A boulder problem.  I decided a few months ago that I needed to build a base to work from and that I should do at least 5 7Cs first before moving up a grade.  Done my 7Cs now which each took me between 2 and 6 sessions.  Now I'm going to try and do 3 7C+ boulders as the next stepping stone.  I've been working on long problems rather than short and hard.  This weeks goal is to repeat perverse reverse (7B) which I climbed years ago and get it wired as its the end of Cave Pervert (stand start) which is my next medium goal at 7C+.  Last weeks success was Powerband which I've tried many times over the years and represents a definite step up for me as its something I've failed at so many times in the past.

 

 Pineappledog 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

I must start by paying homage to your FC, your replies, questions and assumptions have consistently been on point(including this reply) from what I see!

I am in no hurry to reach my long term goal, realistically I think it is probably achievable within 2 years but I am looking to build a plan to be a better climber primarily with goals such as climb X grade by X time as more secondary interim goals. I would rather build the foundations to one day climb as close to my physical capabilities as possible than hit a grade between now and that maximum within a certain timeframe.

Your statement about goals made me think, making the training plan should also be a STG as winter is almost upon us and I should have a thing and create a MTG for next summer, possibly redpoint one or two f7c. 

A version ahead of what I posted as a provisional plan, (Using the crimpd app/online training sites for session ideas) I have come up with this..

M: Endurance - 

If at wall - 5sets 2xreps 1grade below onsight with 10min intervals

If boulder - 2 sets x 20 reps (advises 4 grades below max but currently maxing V5/6 I think I will try this on V2-4 sets at gym, when this feels too comfortable will move to V3-5 sets)

T: Rest

W: I climb socially with friends, most of whom are fairly casual climbers so somewhat stuck on what I can implement here. Is a day of gradual warm up followed by a couple of redpoint attempts at hard routes in the gym particularly productive training?

T: Core/mobility - Pull ups 5x30secs good form pulls?, rings - 4x4sets of 10sec holds I, Y, T?, stretching. Hangboarding?

F: Boulder gym - Work some hard problems around my limit or pyramids (V3, V3, V3, V4, V4, V5, V5, V4, V4, V3, V3, V3)

S+S: One rest day + One day working on whatever my current perceived weakness is, at the moment that is power endurance so will start this with adding 10min sets of continuous climbing or 4x4's on routes -2 form onsight.

Does this seem to have too much or too little of anything specifically or completely missing something important, not entirely sure where to put hangboard in this?

 Ally Smith 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. Very little to report from last week; no change in the ticklist, nor any bouldering ticks. 

Sport climbing season virtually over now. Rescued my draws from the Kilnsey roof on Saturday then flew to Slovenia for a proper holiday. 

Hyper relaxing combination of eastern European stodge, beer and lots of sleep so far.

Full report next week and maybe some FC666 LTGs...

 planetmarshall 17 Sep 2018
In reply to Pineappledog:

> Does this seem to have too much or too little of anything specifically or completely missing something important, not entirely sure where to put hangboard in this?

Speaking as someone operating in the lower end of the grade spectrum, my observations are that for a (relatively) untrained individual, pretty much any kind of progressive plan will bring benefits - so long as it actually is progressive. Otherwise you're just maintaining an existing level of fitness (no bad thing, though). Whatever you did last week, you need to do more of this week - that's just basic training science.

I've found my biggest gains this season are from favouring a workout based around climbing routes and problems outside. Indoors, I favour structured training mostly because I detest climbing indoors!

As for the hangboard, I usually stick it onto the end of a Strength and Conditioning workout, but don't bother with it if I've actually been climbing that day.

OP AJM 17 Sep 2018
In reply to Pineappledog:

Thanks

In terms of some thoughts:

- if you want to be on peak routes form next summer, you might want to schedule some power endurance training in the spring (I tend to think you work both ends of the strength:endurance spectrum in the base phase and move towards the middle as you try to hit peak performance)

- I'd be tempted to have mixed sessions - trying hard stuff followed with endurance to finish off - rather than devoting whole sessions to endurance unless you really need to get fit.

- I'd have thought your social session might be better for endurance - back to back pairs and whatever - than strength. Redpointing routes is interesting in that it's probably not enough miles for fitness but not hard enough for strength. It is nicely specific, mind you.

- however, strength sessions are best done whilst well rested, and currently Wednesday and either Sun or Mon (depending on your weekend plans) fit the bill.

- in terms of specifics, 10m continuous climbing is base aerobic, not power endurance. Power endurance is a couple of minutes trying really hard (ie at a pace unsustainable for 10m)

Post edited at 17:22
 Ally Smith 17 Sep 2018
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Good progressive goal setting. I'm keen to session Cave Pervert too

OP AJM 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

> I warn you I'm setting a high bar for relevance - my next superclassic tick at Lulworth is Mark of the Beast (7c)

> !!

FC666 then. Going to put some goals out there - “What gets measured gets managed” and all that.

Mark of the Beast (7c) (ideally, or other big hard DWS - Blue Planet (7b+ S2) or Privateer (E6 6b))

- E5 (or equivalent, and in as good a style as possible)

- sport to support the trad primarily - focus somewhere between onsight and “quick tick”; also try some specific routes - some from Colors (7b+)Tennessee (7c)Paradise Lost (7b)Bird of Paradise (7b+)Return of the Gunfighter (7c).

 AlanLittle 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

FC666: bugger that. Devil's Crack would be the obvious candidate down my way. But I'm not doing thirty metres of overhanging fist crack with or without lederhosen & beer (as per legendary Kurt Albert solo pic)

 Powderpuff 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

> Powderpuff - glad to hear it! Just take it steady and keep plugging away and you’ll be crimping razor blades again before you know it!

Hi AJM 

Thanks for the PMA, looking forward to being back to full strength, this rehab business is boring!

Just one session at the wall.

And one session at the pub.

Not fit in either areana, but the latter was far more enjoyable

Post edited at 20:32
 alexm198 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

> weekend trips to the alps remind me of the kind of dedication that weekend Scotland trips in the car used to demand back in the day. You’ve really got to be keen. How did round 1go?

I'm no stranger to the 10h drive to Scotland after work on a Friday, so to be honest the alps feels comparatively civilised! Round 1 was pretty good. Started climbing at 11:30am, got 16 pitches of West Ridge (ED1 6b) done and then had a planned bivi. Unfortunately it wasn't to be as we woke up to storm clouds and drizzle. Bailed.

The climbing we did do was utterly sublime though, I'm frothing at the prospect of going back next year. Would do it much earlier in the summer, when the days are longer and the nights are warmer and now that I've recce'd half the route I think I'll try and do it in a single lightweight push.

Last Week:

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: General strength w/core routine warmup.

T: 35min Z2

F: Rest

S: Approach to Salbitschijen (2h30, 1000m) and 16 pitches up to 6b in 8h. Palatial bivi. 

S: Rained off. Rapped 200m and walked down to the van. 

This Week:

Going to leave the Z1 workouts for alpine approaches this weekend and instead focus on getting lots of sleep and getting the strength & Z2 workouts done. 

  • 40min Z2
  • 2 general strength sessions w/core routine warmup
  • 1 alpine route
  • Prioritise sleep, avoid alcohol, don't get ill from weekend alps exhaustion.

Goals: (will add more/refine as they become clearer)

STG (end of October)

  • 2x long alpine routes, TD or above, 800m+
  • 3x E2 O/S

MTG (~end of January, maybe a little later)

  • 2x Scottish VII O/S
  • 3x WI6 O/S
  • 1x M8 O/S

LTG (~end of 2019)

  • New route in the Cordillera Blanca
  • Bugaboos trip
  • Caucasus trip

 

 

 mrchewy 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for all that work that goes into this Andy, it's muchly appreciated.

 

Boat life is getting there slowly. It's communal in the marina, I like it so far but there has been a lot of fixing shoddy electrics on both boats to sort - still, it's got my brain working again.

 

I'm going to back out of fitclub for a while. The back was a mess again last week, no idea why and it's taking it's toll on sleep, work and general happiness. Climbing just isn't going to happen and reporting nothing on here is sort of depressing after a great summer in Swizzy.

I'll get back on it when I'm feeling rather more upbeat than now.

 

Hope everyone has a great Autumn.

 biscuit 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

Fiesta should be getting done over the weekend. My friend has arranged work so we can now get more time in Riglos. Hopefully enough for a warm up route on Friday, Fiesta on Saturday and a harder one on Sunday. Should be good!

Body fat this morning was 11.2% so i'm happy enough with that.

I didn't get the black circuit, but made progress. From the start to 6 moves from the end. Last time I was missing the hard moves at the start out. Most importantly I feel i'm recovering quicker and am able to have more quality tries than a few weeks ago.

I did some circuits at The Depot after coaching and did 5 repeats of the 7a, with decent rests inbetween.

This week may be a short session squeezed in somewhere then off to Spain on Thursday.

More long-term I've been enjoying trying hard again and started to get the bug to find a goal route and get fit/strong again. However being realistic i'm doing the Haute Route next April and as a current non skier weekends will be spent skiing. That on top of the small matter of my final year at uni (and i'll be on the Haute Route when i'm supposed to be finishing my dissertation) and I need to be realistic. Climbing won't be improving much. So I have a loose plan forming in my head which i'll commit to paper whilst in Spain. It's basically some rehab stuff (my knee/hip has become slightly more important now i'll be skiing), general conditioning and strength and aero cap prioritised for climbing. 

 UKB Shark 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

Happy birthday

1
 Ardo 17 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

•Mo: pu/su/pl x 6/20 x 3. 6.7m General walking. 20 problems, (v3).
•Tu: pu/su/pl x 6/20 x 3. 7.2m General walking.
•We: pu/su/pl x 6/20 x 3. 7.3m General walking. 20 problems, (v3).
•Th: pu/su/pl x 6/20 x 3. 8.1m General walking.
•Fr: pu/su/pl x 6/20 x 3. 7.9m General walking.
•Sa: pu/su/pl x 6/20 x 3. 7.3m General walking. 8 problems, (v3), h/board x 4 x 1.
•Su: pu/su/pl x 6/20 x 3. 2.8m General walking, aka sweet fa.

Training week 2, went ok. 2 x hypertrophy, plus a quick boulder/hangboard on Saturday. Weather, partners absence and family birthday meant nothing outdoor, so aim to rectify that this week.

 Dandan 18 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

Kalimera everyone! 

Quick one from me as we are about to head out to Odyssey, just wanted to check in. 

Weather and temps are good here, not too humid so I have yet to blame conditions for any failures! Got quite a large quantity of ticks so far but nothing big, put a day into Daniboy (8a) with no luck and a day into Angelika (8a) where i came off the last, hardest move, but it's all a good learning experience!

I tried the fc600 goal of 6 fr7's yesterday but I think I tried too hard the day before so I only managed 4 at 7a/+ and a 6c+, all done with all tips taped up to save skin! 

I'll do a full report in 2 weeks and have a good think about some devilish new goals..  

 Pineappledog 18 Sep 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the informative replies, I think I will try the mixed sessions and like planetmarshall pointed out, something is better than nothing. Fine tuning over the next few weeks to see what I feels like its working and what doesn't, adjusting accordingly. I also like the thought process behind strength and endurance in the winter and power endurance in the spring.

My theory behind redpointing routes for strength on a Wednesday was thinking along those lines of it being after a rest day but I will be at the wall that day rather than a boulder gym so it was the closest I could come upto for strength, perhaps some fingerboard followed by endurance to mix may work best! 

 Solsbury 21 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM: Hi, last minute post whilst at work-it is has been a bit hectic on work and managing dad's estate front. I have however decided to hang on here at Fitclub, will try and post more coherently for this week, week 600 is so far away now.

I did get out last weekend-let myself off the hook goal wise and just climbed, did manage to get in the flow which and it was very pleasant in the sun. 7 routes, mainly 6a-6b.

Missed 600 goal but not really that worried, now just a year since surgery and to be honest I am glad just to be climbing with no real pain or impingement.

 

 mattrm 25 Sep 2018
In reply to AJM:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 6lbs (2lbs gain)

M - Rest

T - 4k run

W - S - Rest

Apart from a short run squeezed in on Tuesday it's been a week of gentle strolls.  And too much food, but I guess that's a given!  I did talk about going bouldering, but it never actually materialised.  Oops.

 


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