UKC

Hi all

This feels like a very odd question to ask so please bear with me.

I have a beastmaker which I recently started using with a determined agenda to do some actual structured training on for once instead of occasionally doing pull ups when I pass it and could be bothered.

I've been using the Crimpd app to direct me (which is a really excellent resource).

My question is...

I am unable to dead hang on 4 fingers without forming a full crimp (which I understand should be avoided) but I can do it reasonably comfortably with an open hand on three fingers (index, middle and ring). My little finger is approximately 3cm shorter than my ring finger so I wonder if I just have freaky long first 3 or a freaky short pinky and 4 finger crimps are just not for me?

Orrrr am I #doingitwrong?

It does sound like your little finger is on the short side. It’s kinda normal for the middle two to get on towards a half-crimp when the index and little are open with all four on. Sounds like you are getting beyond that. I’d play it safe and just use three fingers and remove some weight with a pulley if necessary.  

Thanks. I'd be interested to hear if anyone has experience a similar thing to what I am describing?

From the little I have read and understand, full crimping is seen as the "extremis" option and shouldn't be the position your fingers are put in for fingerboard training Does this mean my strongest potential "safe" training grip will be my first 3 since all 4 requires the formation of a full crimp and weakens me?

During my inconsistent and brief forays into finger training I've found the same issue. Basically stopped doing 4 finger hangs to avoid it. 

yes, my pinkie too is a full joint shorter than my other fingers, which it makes it impossible to use it in any grip other than full crimp without twisting my wrist at un-natural angle.

Someone once said " I couldn't help but notice and wondered why you are using a 3 finger half crimp on the campus board"  I waved my hands at him and pointed out my short pinkies, he nodded in understanding and didn't say a word more.

My theory is that short pinkies give me an advantage on 1 and 2 finger pockets because I am only 1/3 and 1/2 as many fingers as usual so am stronger compared to someone whose normal grip is 4 fingered and therefore is only 1/4 and 1/3 as strong on those pockets. 

I do find that with short pinkies, they get used so rarely that they are much weaker than the other fingers and prone to tweaking on the few occasions when the hold shape allows it to fit. 

I have considered training my pinky on its own to get it closer to the strength of the other fingers, but mono pinky holds are pretty rare.

Interesting, thanks Jon. I experience exactly the same things you describe here too which makes me think I'm not too far off the mark with my thinking.

Why are you avoiding fingerboarding with a crimp? (or at least a half crimp, as in finger very much bent).  It's much safer to train this position in a controlled way on a fingerboard and get it strong, rather than unleashing a weak crimp grip whilst you climb and risk tweaking it.  

Very willing to listen to advice on this but I had seen a few articles which suggested that training on a fingerboard using a full crimp was a bad idea and a half crimp was what to go for?

The issue I have is that doing a half crimp with my 4 fingers is weaker than an open hang on my first 3 which struck me as unusual.

I have similar short pinky issues. When I fingerboard I end up half crimping with the front 3 and the pinky in drag, if I try all 4 fingers in half crimp my wrist is at a weird angle.

Weirdly I find I can use all 4 fingers in half crimp when doing my one arm hangs, I think the angle your body is at works better.

Although conversely to you my 3 finger drag is definitely weaker than my half crimp!

You have identified that you have a relative weakness on a 4 finger half crimp. The way to improve quickly and become a well rounded climber is not to ignore your weaknesses.

Train the 4 finger half crimp. If necessary use a pulley to take off weight. Listen to your body and don't push too much on it too soon.

The idea of avoiding training on a full crimp to avoid injury is outdated. If you ignore a full crimp and only use it when you're climbing your project, trying your hardest, when you're a bit tired and when conditions aren't perfect etc etc, that is asking for injury. Training a full crimp in a controlled manner of a fingerboard so that it is strong enough to unleash on your project is far safer. That said, it is also important not to overtrain the full crimp and therefore become overly reliant on it. Most people do a lot of their finger training on a half crimp as it is more applicable to how they hold most holds when climbing. But if you never train on a full crimp or an open hand, you will develop weaknesses in those positions.

I do pretty much all my fingerboarding in the half crimp position (think thumb off but first two joints level with the end of your finger. Pinky often ends up being more open as a result of being shorter). This is the king of grip positions. Use a pulley to take some weight off if you are failing too soon in this position. Worth also checking out the beastmaker app. I use a combination of the two depending on what I want to train. It's odd to be stronger on open3, are you using a bigger hold? 

What he said. Train full crimp, but train it carefully. Really good quality hangs, only when fresh. Also do half crimp, and 3 finger open. Add or remove weight so that you are hanging between 5 and 10 seconds, a few sets on each grip type, and you can't fail to get stronger. 

Something I've only discovered recently is to also focus on what your shoulders are doing. Don't let yourself get into a shrug position, where your neck sinks into your shoulders. Get your ears as far away from your shoulders as possible. Really seems to help protect elbows, as well as strengthening shoulders. 

Thanks all for the input. All noted for future.