UKC

/ Fingerboard -progressing to harder holds

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RX-78 on 18 Apr 2018

Hi, currently i am using a crusher fingerboard and using the deepest 4 finger holds, I do 5 sets of 6 reps holding each rep for 7 seconds, so 30 in total. I have tried to move onto the next shallower hold but no luck. The difference between holds is that using the deep one i can get up to my second finger joint in, but in the next step up i only get to the first joint. Any hints or tips for progressing? Thanks!

Andy Hardy on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to RX-78:

Try one hand in the big hold, one in the small, alternating each rep?

Greasy Prusiks on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to RX-78:

Either reduce the duration on the small holds or put something in the back of the large holds to make them shallower as an intermediate. 

Si dH - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

> Either reduce the duration on the small holds or put something in the back of the large holds to make them shallower as an intermediate. 

...or use the smaller holds, but using a pulley and some weights, take some weight off so that the difficulty is correct.

Greasy Prusiks on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to Si dH:

That's a good idea. 

RX-78 on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to RX-78:

Thanks for the suggestions, will try some, the pulley thing might be awkward with the fingerboard as it is not permanently fixed.

Dandan82 - on 19 Apr 2018
In reply to RX-78:

If you can't rig a pulley to create a weight assist then you could do the opposite and add a bit of weight to yourself while using the larger holds.

While this doesn't help with acclimatising you to the single finger joint hold (which may require a slight adjustment in your grip style) it would help build your raw gripping strength so you might have more luck on the smaller holds eventually. 

ian caton on 19 Apr 2018
In reply to RX-78:

Your protocol did nothing for me. Try switching to max 10 second hangs with 3 minute rests, 3 times for each finger position. See Dave McCloud vid. I made rapid advance from big slits to bottom slots plus weights in 6 weeks. We are all individuals.

RX-78 on 29 Apr 2018
In reply to ian caton:

Thanks, had a look at the video, i moved the board to the garage and got a pulley set up in place now. So trying a mix of my current routine and harder routines.

Kristof252 - on 13 May 2018
In reply to RX-78:

Have you considered adding weight?


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