/ Fingerboard training plan
Looking for a bit of training advice.
It looks like I'm going to have a five month spell where I'm not going to be able to get out climbing or to a climbing wall very much, if at all.
The only resource I'm going to have is a fingerboard and a couple of weight belts. It's going to be pretty grim so I would like to get the most out of the training that I do and any suggestions for how to plan my training would be appreciated.
I've been climbing for around 10 years and have fingerboarded regularly for about four years . I was thinking something along the lines of a month of repeaters, a month of max hangs and a month of pull ups/lock-offs, and then back to the start. Any thoughts?
Download the Crimpd app. It’s free and ace.
I'd be thinking repeaters twice a week for six weeks, rest week, max hangs twice a week for six weeks, rest week then back to the start. I think the Ava Lopez advice is that 4 weeks is too short to get the max benefit and 6-8 weeks is better. Pull-up and lock offs I'd combine with a core-y front lever type thing calistetics session once a week to give three sessions a week in total.
That's exactly the sort of advice I was looking for, thanks so much. Sounds like a good plan.
Well yes it's a plan but is it the best plan?
I think more important than the details of the plan is the enthusiasm with which the plan is undertaken.
Being psyched for an average plan is going to be better than going through the motions with a great plan.
Hmmm, yeah I think this might have been where I've been going wrong in the past.
> Well yes it's a plan but is it the best plan?
Can only really speak from a training theory perspective, but it would make more sense to do the max hangs first (a max-strength protocol), followed by repeaters (a strength endurance protocol).
No point working strength endurance if you have no strength to endure...
Look up Paul Robinson training videos on YouTube (sorry, on a mobile and can't seem to cut and paste). He does a couple of sessions with a very average guy including how to use a fingerboard.
> No point working strength endurance if you have no strength to endure...
I think I've read that repeaters are useful for hypertrophy so can be used for the first phase, then switch to max hangs to increase recruitment.
>"No point working strength endurance if you have no strength to endure..."
No point in trying to do intense training if you don't have any sort base condition.
If you are going to start lumping on additional weight I think it prudent to first of all be sure your fingers are well used to just body weight and your recruitment level is good. For me it makes sense to start a program with the least intense sessions first and save the harder stuff for when your condition has improved and is better equipped to deal with higher intensity.
Just to be clear, I wouldn't claim to have any great insight into training for climbing. I'm just making it up as I go along like most people.
Cheers, I'll take a look at that.
I've got a crusherholds board and you can download their training guide free. Nice fingerboards.
This week's Friday Night Video is from UKC regular David Linnett. The short clip features Johnny Dawes climbing the Roaches classic Chalkstorm, although in Johnny's modern style: hands-free.