UKC

I'm just popping this up as I think AJM might be out DWS'ing and I know there's someone who must be bulging fit to burst to let us know how they've got on this week...…..

At frikkin' last. Jeeze!

Are you sober enough to post?

How much chocolate have you had?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_week_591-689413

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

AJM

Si dH - nice one on Cracked Up. Looks cool!

Jamming Dodger - what news on the beagle?

Tyler - I am so sorry to have kept you waiting. But have a YYfY from me

Cyan - that’s solid progress, I remember you saying you’d always found Nu Breed hard...

AlanLittle - I like the clock logic sounds like a solid week for training though even if nothing outdoors.

biscuit - what’s next on the bike, or is it a “long term weaknesses” focus on the short/sharp stuff?

Planetmarshall - Chee Tor is one of those crags I’ve always wanted to go to but never quite managed to make it to. Im surprised it’s not busier in this weather

Dandan - great to get out Friday. Friday fortnight might be a goer for me. Nice one on the 7c too, and 1000 secs of handstands is going to need an even stretchier stretch goal soon!

Ally Smith - I’ll take your sausage/beer weight belt and counter it with a victory takeaway and ice cream belt! I assume you were back on track the week...

hms - very varied week - indoors, railway arches and 2 different crags? Back to sea mills this week? Got to be good Smith training, right?

the sheep - how did the run through go? In fact, presumably, how did the event itself go?

mattrm - I got some Pembroke inspiration from that video too. A great piece of work. I don’t blame you for not running in this weather!

Climbthatpitch - sounds like a bit of a hectic week - anything better this one?

Powderpuff - how do you find the problem pyramids, and are they new ones each time? Do the easier ones take the edge off by the time you hit the Peak, or is it closer to just being properly warmed up?

Tom Green - I love logging 2 days of raving - the best diary log I can remember on F.C. in some time!

Ardo - did you email me (do I need to check my junk mail, I’ve not had anything)? All moved in now then?

Rebecca Ting - really getting into your stride pushing it above the waves. Was Cham as good as Lulworth?

Richard Popp - off for some serious walking! Have a good one. Bound to be some epic scenery...

MauraLorrissey - camping chairs are a versatile choice and allow for multi-purpose room usage since they can be so easily moved out of the way. A great choice

guy127917 - welcome back! Sounds like a pretty cool trip, although I can imagine the whole burglary news threw the whole thing up in the air for a bit! If you’re around in the U.K. then let me know where, although I’m afraid I’ll have to pass on October and I’m so out of practice I don’t think you’d want me anyway!

Fit Club 600 goals:

AJM - some DWS (progress on Gates of Greyskull, ticked Z-Cars, Crab Party), some E2/3 (2x E2), 10/13 weeks of consistent weekday training (3/4)

Dandan82 - 3600s handstand (1005/3600), +60kg pull-up (+55kg), 6 fr7 onsights in a day

Richard Popp - a new 7a

Ally Smith - 8b/+ x2 (0/2), 8a/+ x5 (2/5), 7b-c+ x10 (0/10)

Si dH - Ancap routine at recommended load (67/80)

Planetmarshall - E2 onsight

Tom Green - 600m new route in Kyrgyzstan 

Rebecca Ting - more DWS, Animal Mag, something in Cham, solid base of E1-3, convincing handstand...

Wait! Where does it say anything in the rules about "sober"? Or getting drunk on chocolate?

I had a burger & chips at the wall and ice cream on the way home for post-training protein & glycogen loading. Does that mean I have to wait until tomorrow to post?

Thanks Andy. 

STG (July-August):

3x ~ 7Bs in North Wales

MTGs (September-November):

Caviar 

Powerband (stretch goal...) 

LTGs:

7B+ on my next Font trip. 

Powerband if not in 2018. 

FitClub600, goal: complete an ancap fingerboard session at 80% of max hang weight.

M: fingerboard ancap session. I started trying bodyweight + 5kg but failed to complete the second and third sets so dropped back to bodyweight for the next three sets.

T: rest

W:  fingerboard ancap session. Completed all 6 sets at bw + 2.5 kg (approx 70% of max). Did three max hangs afterwards but was quite a way off my best for obvious reasons.

T:  rest

F: rest

S:  Cheedale - first time on a rope for almost two years! Trying Taylor Made (7c). It's really steep and burly; most of my body had forgotten how to do more than 5 moves at a time. Ended up having done all the moves but with one sequence in the middle still feeling quite hard. Probably need to build my ancap a little more before sending it. Had a really good day though and keen for more. Great to be able to climb on this bit of the Cornice.

S: travel to London for work conference.

This conference continues until Thursday night and then I'm away at a wedding next weekend so the coming week will be mostly a write-off. I might try and get to a bouldering wall one evening this week - is the climbing hangar any good? I think that's closest (I'm just by Hammersmith tube?)

Si

Cheers.

First things first, I decided against the Beagle. I think I’d just be making a rod for my own back. Also my dog I discovered today has a lump on his..... yer know... so he’s going to the vet next week. The shame... for him and my wallet :/

Monday Tuesday and Wednesday rode to work. Thursday worked from home and Friday rode to work. So 104 miles. Got a QOM too. On my work bike. Nice. I was feeling tired on that ride but as I was noodling along some girl rudely overtook me so I couldn’t help but put the hammer down. Left her in a cloud of sweat and my own tears of victory.

No gymnastics this week. No reason other than been getting home late and feeling a bit tired. Im trying to roller and stretch after every ride but it feels like a bit of a chore. But a necessary chore.

The weekend did nowt. My life is so dull. Can’t wait to get the van sorted. It is booked in next week to be fixed. It’s like painting the golden bloody gates! 

So not much “fit clubby” to report. Still not got a new bike. But I’m doing half decent miles anyway so all good. 

Good weather predicted for the coming week... I’ll be biking to work four or five days depending on if I can work from home one day. And away at the weekend. 

I think the week after is going to be a bit of a write off so will try to get as much in as possible. 

Edit: can’t really think of a week 600 goal right now. Maybe by then I’ll actually have gone climbing. That would be an achievement... Perhaps rack up 3000 bike miles?  I’ve some way to go, and it’ll depend on a few factors in my favour. May as well try though huh? 

Sorry, don't know...I only climb in east London!!

Well hell yes bursting to post

Did the sprint tri in 1hr 11! Came 38 out of over 500 entrants and 4th in my age group. So happy 

Hi All. Thanks AJM. Glad you liked last weekend's log, although I still maintain that raving is great training!

Last week was a bit lack-lustre... again! There are many reasons that I could try to use as excuses, cramming in work between trips, heat, family/social commitments, etc. But I think some of it comes down to getting fed up of training as I near the end of this cycle of training cycle! Anyone else get that?

I leave for Kyrgyzstan on Friday which marks the end of this training phase, so I'm hoping getting back and then having a break will restore my training mojo!

Last Week:

M: Rest

T: Trail Run and Core Session. 12km with 340m vert gain at 6:45/km avg, giving 80min Zone 1. Core session later that day felt very hard.

W: Rest

T: Shoulder Prehab

F: Hill Run. 13km with 664m vert gain at 7:35/km avg. giving 100min Zone 1/2.

S: Wedding. Some serious dancing probably counts for an hour or so of Zone 1!!

S: Core Session: felt good, increasing the reps.

Next Week:

Easy week, tapering pre-Kyrgyzstan.

FC600 Goal:

600m of new routes in Kyrg.

Thanks for covering for my tardiness biscuit! I was indeed DWSing, and by the time I’d done that, had ice cream, and come back and engaged with child-wrangling and takeaway time had passed!

My training week was a disaster. The little one wasn’t well on Monday and I wasn’t feeling great on Tuesday which totalled the start of the week. And then if I’m honest I just couldn’t raise the energy Wednesday. I’m likely to fail on the consistency goal, having used 2 of my 3 passes with 8 weeks still left to go, but I guess I’m pushing things around at the minute to make use of the weather outdoors and if that comes at the expense of indoor training, either due to time or feeling whacked or whatever then so be it.

Friday I went out to Conner Cove with Dandan. Having been climbing with no worries at Lulworth and Portland, just committing no hassle, I wasn’t really expecting to get all feardy here. But the water is proper deep, so not that nice welcoming twinkly bluey-green, the cliffs fall straight into the sea rather than being part of a gigantic beach playground (as at Lulworth), the routes are a little polished in places and you actually have to stand on your feet (which in my head at least makes me worry about my knackered DWS shoes, despite the fact that people probably put up high 8s in worse shoes). And not trusting my feet makes me worried about how I’ll fall, since it’s not just “you’re feet could cut and you’d just swing outwards on this massive bucket”.

those are my excuses. So I did Troubled Waters, gaffes for a bit and then did the Conger, and got on Freeborn Man. I faffed like no ones business, got pumped, and eventually jumped off from the reach into the undercut. Head suitably cleared by not even dying once, and with some slightly better shoes and an idea of what to do, I climbed so much better - more flows, more confident etc - and did it second go. A bit disappointed to have to take a second go, but pleased I climbed it well when I did. Then fell off Great Shark Hunt, and downclimbed most of the length of Fathoms after having a run out of head juice over by Funky Ledge, which is even more intimidating since you can’t even climb out without soloing HvS. Great to get some of the logistics sorted, great to do Freeborn Man, it is a classic, but I need to go back, take so,e falls over by funky ledge, and deal with some unfinished business.

Made up for it all back at playground Lulworth on Sunday though.

- Warmed up, repeating Horny in the process. Got on Window of Opportunity and touched but didn’t get established on the undercut before the Horny ledge, despite very much doing the lower section the hard way - picked up some useful beta from one of the original crag developers for next time.

- Then took a wee wander roundhthe Maypole to Crazy Notion. This was another of the things on my list to do, and I wanted to keep doing a mix of stuff rather than just falling off Gates. And I just got on it and did it. Onsight on the new moves but it shares a chunk with Animal Magnetism so hardly a purists onsight! Really good climbing, cool moves, and I climbed it no worries whatsoever.

- then there was a crew wanting to get on Gates, so I thought I might as well use my last splashdown of the day on that. Knew I was fairly close last time but needed to keep my feet on with the second side pull. Set off, ploughed through the first section, got to the spike jug without too much hassle. Up to the right hand side pull, heel on, left side pull, and this time just pulled through slow and steady to the second one. Then suddenly I’ve got the top of the crag in front of me and have to slap from compression sidepulls to a hold on the lip which is reputed to have some good bits and some not. Big explosive move with a long ride awaiting failure. But I hit it, hit the good bit, got my hands up, got my feet onto the lip, scrabbled in an ungainly fashion trying to rock over into balance, and eventually got there. Super psyched. First 7b+ dws, highest (or at least highest proper hard) dws, first 7b+ at all since becoming a dad, and a cracker of a route.

not really sure what this week holds. Tuesday night, I hope, but unsure about the weekend as we have some other social commitments - it’s high early morning spring tides though so there’s always a chance a crack of dawn start might allow me to squeeze something in.

Fantastic! Great result!

Ive tried DWS once in my life and cr@pped myself from only 5ft up. And I looked like a beached whale which didn’t make splashdowns graceful in any way  So spent most of the day on the boat. You seem to have had a much better outing! 

Also just realised my 600 goal is totally unrealistic since it’s only 8 weeks away... I’ll think of something else.

I'd like to pretend it's no big deal but for me it really is, way beyond the level of achievement, back to earth with a bump today though....

M: First weigh in after the holiday and delighted to find the damage was contained, still only ten and a half stone. Headed to Kilnsey to reacquaint with the project but only had one B2B and one go trying links.

T: Kilnsey with Ally, got to the crux slap comfortably twice but new drop knee beta not the breakthrough I'd hoped for. 

W: BUK for some social and climbed ok.

T&F: Rest

S: First redpoint ended prematurely when I forgot to move my feet on an easy move, possibly nerves as never done that before. Next go sent after a mid route change of plan to revert to my original original beta for the crux. I bought some beta-alanine (anyone tried this?) in the week in case things didn't go to plan, I've not dared take it yet but maybe there was a placebo effect! Good vibe at the crag again and great to meet hms.

S: Trow Gill in tropical conditions, managed to slime my way up Alick (6b+) not a Top 50 route! I'd fallen off Bush of Ghosts (7a+) on my last visit (2006) so decided to tidy that up, tried to clean it on what turned into a bolt to bolt go by it was too humid and too dirty so abandoned that idea after 40 mins of effort with an inadequate brush. Thought I'd console myself with a quick OS of Distant Lands (7a) only to be shut down by most moves, got it next go but still a struggle, there's a reason I only climb at Malham and Kilnsey!

I'm trying not to let myself go too badly ( this is the beginning and not the end and all that) so no beer yet but I have to admit to having had profiteroles for breakfast. Big dinner at New Inn, Clapham this evening as well (service was awful but it was the end of a busy weekend to be fair and the place is nice).  

Mate, am I reading this right... did you just tick THE project? 

Oh yeah, I assume because this has been all consuming for me everyone else knows what I'm on about! I climbed the Bulge yesterday which I'm chuffed about as its only my second 8a in 30 odd years of climbing. The downside is I now ought to get involved in my lifetime trad ticks which terrifies me (not least the walk ins, Trow Gill is a gentle 40 min walk but my hip is agony this evening).

Another mad week... Lots of short climbs fitted in around kind of overwhelming non climbing stuff.

Mon: Rest.

Tues: Wall. V5 on the 45°. Might be a first.

Wedns: Wall. Then beer.

Thurs: Rest.

Fri: Wall. Lots of stuff up to V5.

Sat: Wall. Quick hit, ticked a V6.

Sun: Wall. Easy climb.

Excellent! That’s great news. 

It it was just the casual way you dropped it in to Saturday’s log... I was expecting capitals, exclamation marks and smiley faces!!

Was great to get back outdoors climbing. Cleaned my 21 project on top-rope. Just need to get back out very soon and attempt it on lead. 

STG/Weekly: *do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives)/new goal x2 sets of 3x3 chins or pulls ups each week as minimum - did one session.  *3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - tick MTG:

* lead The Most Monstrous Monster (21)  https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/glasshouse-mountains/tibrogargan...  *Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by end August *Lead "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - by end Sept LTG: *sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18) - https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/bells-line-of-roa...

*climb a big wall before I'm 40 

Monday:

Training - lower body squats, lunges, etc. core exercises.  

Tuesday:

Lead session - felt good to be leading some 20-22's!

Wednesday:

Training - upper body strength session.

1hr hike Kondilla Falls. 

Thursday:

Training: high heart rate session, inc rope, wall balls, rower, sled, sit ups, beast-makers (6kg dumbbells) and core exercises.

T/R session - attempted a 25. Also did some pull ups with a resistance band 3x3. 

Friday: 

Training: stairs - endurance training.

Saturday:

Worked moves on project - The Most Monstrous Monster (21) at Tibro. Managed to do it clean after only a few attempts. Keen to get back out to try on lead. 

Sunday:

rest

Congrats!

Off the post-training carb high now, so ...

STG: Finish a project, any project. Possibilities are something in the Frankenjura next weekend [NO: raining] or something in the Peak in about three weeks.
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

Power Endurance phase (emphasis, not exclusive) of the Hörst 4-3-2-1 cycle, week 2 of supposed to be 2 but I'm doing 3. Definite improvements.

___________________________________________

M: Rest day
T: Fingerboarding Hörst 7/53 protocol while watching Seaside. Thus experiencing both extremes of the rock climbing quality-of-experience scale simultaneously.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Similar to Sunday: warm up, some burns on projects, couple of pumpy laps to finish off. Something is definitely working: my "couple of burns to finish off" level when already tired is up from 6a/+ to 6b/+
T: Rest
F: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Half an hour bouldering to warm up then PE circuits. Nothing spectacularly hard, but again the number of pitches I can grind through at or slightly above onsight level in a session is increasing.
S: Rest
S: Rain. Buggeration. Another Sunday afternoon at the wall, Freimann. This is getting a bit much; I'm even starting to enjoy it. Another decent session: rather damp & humid and no project ticks, but close on a couple. And more to the point, did substantial amounts of hardish climbing while pumped & then fell off, which is the object of the exercise. "6b+ when already tired" turns out not to cover 6b+ on 30 degree comp walls. Yet.
 

Cheers Andy, had a great time on Friday, we will have to try Lulworth next time, see if we can actually get me in the water...

Strong FitClub scenes this week, well done all who are making progress and hitting goals!
My week was reasonable, slightly sore finger is still slightly sore, I've had this issue enough to know that it will be a couple of months of just being careful and not doing anything too crazy, but it shouldn't cause any real restrictions. My back is good, still tight at times but I squatted to 50kg this week and it felt good, not risked a deadlift yet.

M: TRX: new session, really intense! My core was giving out by the end, a lot of face down, prone positions at full extension.

T: Indoor Boulder; Linked boulder - 14 move problem, 4 reps with 2.5 minute rest, 1.5 sets with 5 min rest. Really hard still, woody problem is not ideal for this.
3 sets of 8 on 5 off at 6b or lower.
serious DOMS across my chest from the TRX on Monday

W: Core, DOMS the sequel.

T: Gym; Bench 3 x 4 at 65kg, Squat 3 x 4 at 50kg (felt comfortable), Shoulder press 3 x 4 at 40kg, pull up 3 x 4 at +35kg (100kg). I've been playing with one of these super hard hand grippers in between sets for a few weeks (listened to a podcast about doubling up on unconnected muscle groups in rest periods) and nearly closed it this session! Apparently it requires 88kg of force to close, it's not exactly analogous to hanging a crimp but there's a definite improvement in hand closing strength which can only be good.
Indoor Boulder; Split continuity, 3 reps of boulder followed by 6 mins easy climbing. 3 sets.

F: DWS! Met up with AJMiyagi for a tour of Conner Cove, it's a beautiful place and it was a beautiful day to be there. Every route I did felt like a 3 star classic, the rock quality is really fantastic. Onsighted everything I tried and so stayed dry all day, some might say I didn't try hard enough, I would say I was just getting accustomed to it, plus I only had one chalk bag! I'm not one for head games really and have no issue with leaping into water so I just focused on the climbing and ignored the exposure, seemed to work for me, I used several dubious footholds or smears without really considering the consequences (the routes were all S1 so very safe). I'll be sure to try something harder next time!

S: Portland; Went to see if Mrs Dandan could tick her project Spare Rib (7b) but it was really damp when I put the draws in and even worse when I stripped it! Must have been a weird quirk of the conditions as these routes usually dry as the day goes on even before the sun comes around, but this just got wetter and wetter! I was feeling pretty beaten up so didn't try anything hard for myself.

S: Fingerboard 7/3 x 6 at 75% max on AA slot. I dropped this to +15 from +18 as I was feeling pretty tired.
Progressive AnCap; 6 problems, 3 reps of each with 3 seconds rest, 5 minutes between problems. Got shut down on a bunch of 6b+ moon board routes, I think I'm really tired!

FC600: 60 minutes of handstanding - 1362/3600 seconds. Stretch goal - 60 second hold!
+60kg pull up - +55kg
6 onsights 7a or higher in a day (in Kaly) - Picked Secret Garden as a potential venue...

STG: (last week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day - FAIL 3/7
* Every session on new plan - FAIL 7.5/8.5
* Another 5 x 30 second handstand - FAIL 2/5

STG: (this week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day -
* Every session on new plan - 
* Another 5 x 30 second handstand - 

MTG: (up to Kaly in September)
* Onsight 7c in Kaly, suggestions welcome
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 3 good ring muscle ups in a row
* Squat and Deadlift 100kg - Sq-70kg DL-100kg

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 100/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3 * tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 4/10
* Squat and deadlift 2x bodyweight
* Go to Kilnsey - August with Ally?
* Get to December without any new injuries
* reasonably static muscle up
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* Onsight 8a+/Redpoint 8b+ in a day by March 2022 (40th Birthday)

Well if it’s the start of something it’s a pretty good start! Well done. 

Nice one on the 7b+ Andy, and DWS to boot

Wear the t-shirt with pride

I swore I saw the start of an ab too

Thanks Ally.

First time I've had a project of that sort - I probably fell off Horny almost as many times but (in greaay nick and) mainly in the same place whereas this one on most goes I pushed a little further forwards, slowly grinding towards the end.

Feel a bit wrecked today but super psyched and already looking for the next one

Week 29

M – Nowt but stretching/foam rollering tired legs.

T – Kilnsey after work. A couple of exploratory trips in roofy mc roof face. Home late.

W – Max hangs, rings and weights.

T – Rest. Minor DOMS

F – Nowt.

S – Kilnsey with hms. More roof explorations - Aboriginal Sin, 7c+ proved to be very dirty, very bouldery, and very bloody scary. 2nd go RP of Biological Need, 7c getting very pumped with a duff sequence. Then back for round 2 of scarefest in the roof. At least this time I actually managed all the moves rather than prevaricating and cleaning holds whilst crapping my pants!

S – Cornice with hms, Dan & Jonny. Up the River Without a Paddle (7a) flash warm-up. 7a repeat. Snails of the Riverbank (7b) OS, The Naive and Sentimental Lover (7c) failed flash, then failed RP. Solid 7c?

8b/+ x2 (0/2 - no change), 8a/+ x5 (2/5 - no change), 7b-c+ x10 (2/10 - Biological Need & Snails of the Riverbank)

Cheers Andy.

Back to work this week but I’ve manged to squeeze a decent amount in.

Only one bike ride. I just went out for an hour as fast as I could up some local hills. Lots of pb’s on strava so all good. It’d be a bit disappointing if I wasn’t fitter after the Marmotte. Bike wise I have no goals as such but I need to improve my sustained power output. So while the bike takes a back seat for a while it's the ideal time to work on this on shorter rides.

I’ve manged to climb 3 times. Short sessions as I’ve no fitness, its hot and my skin is paper thin.

BoulderUK – circuits up to 6c, tried the 7a CRUXY. Got the crux sorted but not a great circuit for getting fit on so didn’t bother trying the whole thing again. Bouldered up to V5. Found a soft V6 but it was still too hard for me.

Climbing Hangar – hot, smeggy holds and tired. Circuits were awful so sacked them off quickly. Problems up to V5. Rings. 

MCC – Circuits – up to 7a with the squad. Nearly got beaten by a 9 yr old. Good circuit board for a small one. Impressed with what they’ve done upstairs. Rings and some core. Anything over 7a = quick fail. Serious lack of str end. 

All my rehab stuff is going OK. Finger, shoulder and neck are feeling good. Upper back still giving grief but better than it was. Need to do more lower limb work. 

Diet – I managed over 20 on the DQS app everyday apart from one, as I am giving myself one day off a week. Currently averaging at 66.3kg and 12.3% fat. But I’ve come back with the appetite of someone who has been biking in the Alps for a few weeks. I’ve been hungry – a lot. Would like to get down to 10% but that may be a long battle. I’m not counting calories as well as the DQS atm. That’s just too much to deal with. Once I’ve got the heathy eating habits sorted I’ll start looking at that.

Handstand bet is this Wednesday. Lets hope 4-5 secs is enough to do it. 

This week will be tricky for climbing as it’s Summer hols for the kids plus work. Keep up with rehab stuff, get out on my bike and climb if I can will be the plan.

Great work, congrats! 

I have tried beta-alanine, both on it's own and as part of crazy 'pre workout' concoctions (mixed with bcaas, caffeine, etc). It definitely does *something* and you can feel it within a few minutes, but I never established whether that was beneficial to climbing or not. I still have some at home, could do some experiments (though I dont have much of a benchmark for pumpy climbing to work from at the moment),.

Cheers, as from the earlier post the event went well, in fact far better than i had imagined it could go!

The run up to it went as follows;

Monday, gentle half km swim

Tuesday, full tri run through after work. 400m in the pool, out onto the bike for a 22km ride home then out on the road for a 5km run. Completed the lot in 1 hour 30 ish

Wednesday, again a gentle half km swim, was going to run with the wife and her club in the evening but ended up getting a free triple wardrobe so had to get that home, dismantle it, get it upstairs and build it. All done between getting home from work and the wife returning from running which was quite an achievement!

Thursday, 1km swim

Friday, gentle half k swim

Saturday, went over to the venue to register early and get my race pack. Took the oppertunity to do a lap of the bike route so a nice 10k cycle

Sunday, tri day 

I guess for what you are doing is it has no relevance and for me to a certain extent as I'm hoping to switch focus to trad (I'm thinking the more I say this the more I'll be shamed into doing something abut it!)

I was going to ask what was on the big trad ticklist, if listing it out loud will help with getting it done!?

Thanks Biscuit and AJM. Busy week as is was the first week of the new training plan.

M - cycle commute. Core session. Yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. FB 5/10/5/3 x6 working up to +17kg. Rest then continuous hangs on crimp, drag and back 3 with an assist to get the time over 1 min.
W - cycle commute. TCA in evening. Warm-up then boulder triples using the resin dishes on the lattice. Chose this as TCA as busy so using a boulder problem looked like it could be difficult to do. Unfortunately I think the dishes was too hard.
T - FB 7/3/60/10 x2. Massive assist which proved problematic as I was using a legless harness so it pulled up, hurt a lot and stopped me breathing!
F - nothing
S - Kilnsey with Ally. Nice to meet Tyler, especially after his Big Tick! Didn't get my route, WYSIWYG, although not for lack of trying very hard - could do it in 2 overlapping sections but not quite seal the deal. Subsequently got beta on how to get a better rest on the big jug which could make a crucial difference.
S - Cheedale with Ally et al. Ticked Clarian Call second go. Stumped by the crux on Martial Music - sure it would go, but need to work out a height appropriate sequence.

Hey AJM, no email yet: posting on Fit club first!

Zero climbing or training, due to continued flat stuff and work deadline. Diet good though and keeping active, so not stressing about it, plus flat completed Friday and weekend deadline hit, hallelujah.

Got a lot of box moving to get through, but looking to get at least one training session or climb in this week, (before a day at the cricket on Saturday with my brothers, which may involve drink and unhealthy food).

Now to start planning my August holiday, anyone for climbing?

At the moment I can't get a partner for Saturday (weather awful on Sunday) so I might be spared even starting a trad campaign! The lifetime tick would be the Cumbrian, one of the few routes I've been inspired by looking at it rather than reading about it first. Any classic E5 (OS) would be good as I've not done one for over 20 years. There I've said it! Mind you there are lots of low extremes in Scotland I'd be almost as happy to have done Shelter Stone in particular and any Extreme Rock route tick is the non plus ultra for people of my age. 

Hey AJM,

I had no conscious plan to do bouldering pyramids, but if I think about it what ive been doing recently is similar ,but less intense. When I do put a pyramid together, my method is that advocated in "self coached climber".

Monday:can't really remember what I did at the wall. Certainly a couple of v4/5 problems. Felt tired.

Saturday:outside almscliff ,Worked a 7a I only recently became aware of. Climbed some easy slabs and a v2, and v4. 

Work crazy busy so just maintaining climbing is the aim. Not sure this is uplifting enough to be a fc600 goal but it could be.

Diet better but could be better still.

Sleep ok but will probably get worse with work getting more full on.

Thanks AJM for contining to keep fit club going....and thanks biscuit for starting the post.

I can aslo now start planning some 600 goals. I'll aim for the following with an expectation that I won't get past the first:

Six new to me routes

Six new to me trad routes >=E1

Visit 6 crags I've not been to for 10 or more years.

A good aim - aside from the whole "20 years" thing that might be my main aim for next year...

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 2lbs (2lbs loss)

M - 5k run

T - S - Rest

S - Climbing in Range West

Decided to go out and do some trad on Sunday.  So I asked my self, where's the easiest and chillest place I can think of.  Some where near.  Ideally without unexploded bombs.  So I went to Range West.  We arrived at 0900 and reported to the guardhouse.  Unsurprisingly the only nutters on the range that day.  We went to Mount Sion.  Nice easy crag.  Did lots of oddly graded routes (range of different grades, but all felt like Severes, apart from the Diff which was probably VDiff).  It's stunningly lovely there and it's always great to see so many insects, butterflies everywhere.  I wimped out of leading after seconding the VDiff, which was definitely a Sev.  It's a nice non-tidal ledge, so we didn't have that faff.  Disappointingly as Mount Sion is 15 minutes from the car park, there's not so many bombs, only saw a few.  If we'd gone to Bulliber, I reckon it would have been more spicey.  Definitely going to try and get back a few more times this year, it's just such a great place to climb and mostly in my grade range as well.  Tho the routes are obviously put up by people who climb to a much better standard, hence the lower grades being a bit odd.  Nice and sunny too. 

The run was good and I've managed to loose a couple of lbs.  Might make the STG next week with a bit of luck.

Well done on the 8a.  I'd no idea.  What was the route?

Edit : just been to the Climbing Hangar in London. Problems well set and a friendly crowd but blimey it's cramped! I will never again complain about any climbing wall outside of London being too busy... 

Thanks AJM

This week went better. Still would like to get more climbing in but it takes a lot of time away from the family. Its easy to get out for an hour run but to go out for a few hours climbing is starting to prove harder. Might invest in a finger board

M - My car had to go to the garage so I rode the 11 miles to and from work. I haven't been on the bike in ages and certain muscles felt it

T - Rest

W - Am - Run, 7.5km, 6:35 min perkm, 63m accent

       PM - A few easy routes up to HS at symonds

T - Run - 8km, 5:36 ,in perkm , 42m accent

F - Genreal strength session

S - AM - took the youngest indoor climbing. Had a mess about on some boulders but did not do a lot.

      Pm - Run, 8.3km, 07:14 min perkm, 196m accent

S - Fairy cave quarry. Lead  a vs and an e1. Seconded 3 e2

I like fairy cave as it is all in the feet and I realised as soon as I take my hands away im really not a very good climber so this pushes me to actually try and learn good footwork

This weeks post is easy for me... nowt.

Sitting in Pete’s eats now so should have more to report next week!

Get out and do another route this evening, have you seen the forecast?!

Yeah... it rained all afternoon. Might not get that much done... It’s much nicer being here than London though! To Parisellas!?

! To Parisellas!?

A trip there might vaguely be on the cards for me tomorrow - does anyone know if the right hand side around Clever Beaver stays dry in the rain? 

No idea- we picked up the mini guide today with an idea of going there tomorrow or Monday. If you are heading up definitely let us know- I don’t think much else will stand a chance tomorrow.

Great job on the lulworth ticklist Mr AJMiyagi! 

Nothing week (life stuff innit) then flew to Geneva on Friday. 

F - evening river walk in Cham

S - raining so intro to ice work on the glacier. Led WI 4+.

S - first alpine route lead taking a rope of 4 on a very crowded Northwest of the Petite Aiguille Verte - mess of guides and newbs meant it was a bit crazy and very slow. First impressions of alpine climbing is that it’s slower than skimo but pretty sure I could get into it...

I will either go there or the boardroom tomorrow unless I am too hungover  (!) (currently at a wedding.) I'll post here again if I'm going, would be good to say Hi. 

I'm going to have a look at the cave.