UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_592-689826

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

AJM - needs to knuckle down and train...

Si dH - you got any plans to get back to the Cornice? I assume London walls were disgustingly hot?

Jamming Dodger - well done on the QOM. Van fixed?

the sheep - well done! Good effort.

Tom Green - I’m reminded of a conversation with my sister, who hit 1000steps raving like a loon in the last hour or so of my wedding. Definitely exercise! Hope Kyrgyzstan goes well!

Tyler - congratulations, you’ve put in the hard work and the commitment and it’s paid ff, nice one!

Cyan - for a hectic week that’s a lot of individual sessions at least! Any easing on the horizon?

MauraLorrissey- you been back to the project yet? 

AlanLittle -must be frustrating not being able to get out, but it reads like a solid set of sessions with some progression on display, so it’s all work in the bank!

Dandan82 - I feel like I should try to get in on this handstand game really, maybe one for this winter as part of an Overcoming Gravity st of goals. How’s the finger? Nice one on the day out at Swanage once more

Ally Smith - been back up in the roof this week? Do you have any 8b/+ in mind for the pyramid?

biscuit - bet won or lost? Well done on the bike ride, and a few wall sessions - you’ll break back into it before you know it...

hms - you got any plans for a Kilnsey rematch to seal the deal?

Ardo -how’s the moving gone? Did you find time to climb?

Powderpuff - always tough when work is busy. Some people can use climbing to destress from it, but once I get beyond a certain point I just shut down and can’t focus

Mattrm - Range West sounds cool. Always been one of those I thought I ought to get organised and go to, but never quite managed to tear myself away from the delights of the rest of south Pembroke 

Climbthatpitch - yes one thing fairy cave definitely isn’t is on the arms! I found bouldering was my way to try to squeeze family friendly sessions in, but even that is a long way from being workable for an hours window!

guy127917 - resting hard!

Rebecca Ting - first alpine tick dispatched!

 

Fit Club 600 goals:

AJM - some DWS (Gates of Greyskull, Crazy Notion, Z-Cars, Crab Party, Freeborn Man), some E2/3 (2x E2), 10/13 weeks of consistent weekday training (3/5)

Dandan82 - 3600s handstand (1362/3600), +60kg pull-up (+55kg), 6 fr7 onsights in a day, 60s handstand

Richard Popp - a new 7a

Ally Smith - 8b/+ x2 (0/2), 8a/+ x5 (2/5), 7b-c+ x10 (2/10)

Si dH - Ancap routine at recommended load (70/80)

Planetmarshall - E2 onsight

Tom Green - 600m new route in Kyrgyzstan 

Rebecca Ting - more DWS, Animal Mag, something in Cham (Petit Aig Verte), solid base of E1-3, convincing handstand...

Tyler - 6 new routes,  6 new >E1, 6 crags that you’ve not visited in the last decade

 

In reply to AJM:

Monday: 45 minute run to shake out the cobwebs. ‘Easy pace’ but felt hard!

Tuesday: 45 minute run

Wednesday: nada

Thursday: nada, drive to wales

Friday: 2 HVS routes in Clogwyn du tarw before it rained, walked 14km up Carnedd Dafydd

Saturday: A few routes at bus stop quarry including Fanatic 6c which I failed to even start 2 years ago. 

Sunday: Bouldering with Si dH at Parisellas. Really enjoyed it, first time at the venue- did the latter half of left wall lower from just before the kneebar and then spent some time working on pillar finish. Did all the moves on that but didn’t quite link the two halves.

 

This week I’ll just be seeing how it goes with the weather etc in North Wales. Goal routes are dream of white horses, cenotaph corner and the grooves...

In reply to AJM:

thanks AJM. Not currently no but will enquire on Mr Smith! Busy week but suspect I was off-plan for some of it and have ended up short on ancap. 

M - cycle commute. yoga.
T - cycle commute. Home via UCR. 1min on/2 min off x10 on hard 6c+. Rest then 6b+ x6 with 1 min rests. Suspect the 6c+ wasn't hard enough for this session so may have to revisit the 7a on the steep board downstairs, missing out the shoulder mangling roof sections.
W - cycle commute. FB in evening: 5/10/5/3 x6 with weight rapidly increasing to 19kg. 7/3/60/10 x2 with massive assist. Proper harness made this far more pleasant. Suspect I need a new pulley though as my weight plus the assist is a bit too much for the current one to be happy with.
T - cycle commute. Sea Mills bridge traverse in chunks for 90mins (D2 fed the ducks!). 7/3/6/1 x10 at bw on returning home. Skin very sore.
F - nothing
S - Taffs Well West with Cyan. I tried a short, brutal, bouldery 7b+. Did all the moves in short sequences apart from 1. Second go cut short by thunder and rain. Worth a revisit for sure - very much not my sort of thing - suspect use of extenders to double up the clips will making working it less scary.
S - wet, although not as apocalyptically so as the forecast made out. TCA, trying comp problems with D1. A long session of trying really hard, after which I was monumentally knackered. Which has put paid to any thoughts of fb ancap or core this evening. May drag myself as far as the TRX.

In reply to AJM:

Mon: Rest.

Tues: Wall. Bouldered a bit, messed around on circuits a bit.

Wedns: Rest.

Thurs: Wall. I think. Can't remember what I did.

Fri: Rest.

Sat: Taffs Wells West. 6a+, bouldery 6b+ 2nd go, wholehearted but unsuccessful flash go on a short 7a. Made a big hole in my finger :-/ Taped up and had a short working go, rained off before getting a red point.

Sun: Wall. Long lazy session ill-advisedly applying n+1 to coffee drinking. Couple of V5's and a V6. Now very jittery.

In reply to AJM:

A quieter week this week. 

Tues - Lulworth, usual warmups. In theory tried Magnetic Gates, a 7c which links from Gates of Greyskull across to Animal Magnetism. In practise, fell off twice whilst still on Gates. Tired, knackered, in need of rest. A mite greasy but that wasn't really it. Token fondle of the sidepull on Adrenochrome.

Thurs - decent TRX and weights session. Disgustingly hot .

Sat - ditto, another good TRX/weights session. Can feel it today!

Sunday - aches putting paid to ambitions of a hard training session but intend to do some stretching and light stuff around dinner. 

Hopefully a better Tuesday session this week, and maybe sneaking out at the weekend too. Be nice to have a decent crack at Magnetic and I'd still like to get Window of Opportunity done as well. And around that, I just need to keep doing some training...

 

In reply to AJM:

STG: Get some routes in in the Peak next week
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

Power Endurance phase (emphasis, not exclusive) of the Hörst 4-3-2-1 cycle, week 3 of 2 and end of my first ten week cycle. Seems to be working. I am definitely the fittest on plastic I have ever been, see for example Tuesday. Remains to be seen if I can convert this to actual performance.

M: Rest day
T: Wall, Freimann. Routes. Interesting session: went with the intention of clearing up unfinished business from Sunday, but initially felt not fully recovered & thought it would just turn into a mileage session. But then got on one of the routes I spent Sunday falling off of "just for a look" as Route Eight of the evening, and to my surprise pretty much cruised it. This feels like quite a big deal, because I usually see my session stamina as a major weakness.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Incredible thundery humidity, the worst I've ever experienced, and tired from yesterday. Got some mileage in.
T: Rest
F: Attempted a few desultory fingerboard sets while packing my suitcase.
S: Fly to UK, drive to my sister in Norfolk
S: Wall, Highball in Norwich while my son & my sister engaged in some auntie-nephew bonding time. Bouldering to warm up then autobelay laps, and shoulder stabilisation & wrist extensor work in the rather well equipped weight room to round off. Continue to be surprised that a place like Norwich has such a top notch wall: the times they have a'changed.
 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. Yes the wall was super hot and sweaty in the week. I'm hoping to get back to the Cornice next weekend. I'm feeling psyched for a few routes at the moment so have deleted my short term goals - I'm just going to enjoy trying new boulders when I'm on my own and some routes when I'm not, rather than fixating on a project, at least until autumn. 

Goals:

Caviar

Powerband

7B+ on my next Font trip. 

FitClub600, goal: complete an ancap fingerboard session at 80% of max hang weight.

M: hotel gym session in the morning. 3 sets / 10 reps each of flies on a pulley machine, chin ups, wrist flexor and extensor curls, twisting crunches, dish-tucks and supermans.

T: hotel gym session in the morning. 3 sets / 10 reps each of flies on a pulley machine, chin ups, twisting crunches, dish-tucks and supermans. Bouldering at the Climbing Hangar in the evening. About 1.5 hrs on a couple of of V6s then did an ancap fingerboard session. Bodyweight on the Bm1000 crimps was about the right intensity as I was already tired.

W:  rest

T:  hotel gym session in the morning. 3 sets / 10 reps each of flies on a pulley machine, chin ups, wrist flexor and extensor curls and supermans. Travel home in the evening. 

F: Ancap fingerboard session in the evening. Completed it OK with bw+2.5kg again.

S:  rest / boozing at a wedding.

S: shortish session at Parisellas, nice to meet Guy and Jenn. Spent most of my time trying Clever Beaver but didn't quite manage to keep my foot on for the penultimate move. It would go with a bit more time/effort. Spent 30 minutes at the end on Left Wall Traverse and almost re-ticked it from the shot hole (now gets 7A+.) Pleasantly surprised by this as it's very much a power endurance problem and I didn't have time to sort out a perfect sequence as I'd forgotten all the moves. 

Put on some weight due to conference gluttony but managed to get a good amount done so not a bad week. 

 

Si

In reply to AJM:

This week I've been doing a lap of honour around my favourite foods and eateries (although I'd have happily passed on Wagamamas, they try to make a virtue out of cramming people onto tables while serving food which is basically gruel with haphazard service, it's like being in Oliver Twist).

M: Rest

T: BUK, just bouldering, managed some V5s

W: Kilnsey, was supposed to try some trad but due to various traffic issues didn't get there until 7:45. Did Vizzy Vu (7b) after a B2B warm up, best route of it's grade in the UK!

T - S: Nothing 

S: First time doing routes indoors for 18 months at least. Really enjoyed doing lots of new moves, couple of 7a OS (but also fell off a couple more) and a load of 6c.

600 Goals 

Not sure if starting the count from last Saturday is gerrymandering the figures but it gets me off the mark:

New routes - 4/6, new crags - 1/6, trad - 0/6

 

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

I've got some 600 goals now. I've sorted out a long weekend at the end of September to see a mate in Barcelona. He's decided we're actually off to Riglos to do Biceps on the 22nd. So it's panic stations as it makes no difference if you fall off the last pitch on lead or second, you'll end up dangling in space 200m off the deck. Nowhere to hide. 

Goals that are achievable before the trip:

Trowbarrow traverse (left or right) 7b+

Black circuit at BUK also 7b+

Body fat down to 11%

 

As far as climbing goes this week is going to be getting volume in and then i'm going to focus on An Cap work and get out as much as I can. I also need to get my lead head back. 

Any other suggestions at how to quickly get better at overhanging potato pulling greatly received. 

A week of work and kids has meant a quiet one on the climbing front. I've managed once today at BUK. Plan was an endurance pyramid 8xV1(warm up), 8xV2, 6xV3, 4xV4, 2xV5, 1xV6 and back down. I didn't manage the V6 (but got closer than last week) and my skin couldn't face the 8xV2's. I went upstairs to the circuits but failed a few moves into the 6c i'd previously flashed and as i'm planning on climbing Mon, Tue and Wed at least this week I decided running away was the best thing to do. I'm going for little and often. I'm definitely not as dynamic and confident as I used to be at bouldering. 

Diet has gone really well but I have boozed a bit more than I should have. I think it's time to drop the DQS scale now (not counting booze I was well over 20 each day) and get back on my fitness pal to drop another kilo or so. Quick fix for Riglos really. 

All my physio stuff has gone well but I need to do more of my least favourite glute exercises. 

In reply to biscuit:

Spend lots of time on steep ground on buckets. Try to work on climbing efficiently and not being scared - if you move quickly you'll get far less pumped.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers! 

By coincidence I spent a very hot afternoon at a conglomerate crag whilst in France. It’s quite similar I think. Lots of potato sized rounded rocks sticking out. Not quite slopers but not quite jugs. There’s generally always a good hold about but you’ve got to find it. 

My head is going to be key. I’m generally fine on multi pitch. But I generally don’t push it much on multi  pitch and I’ve not climbed a lot outdoors at all this year. 

Anyway, I’ll do what I can and give it full beans on the day. It’ll be an adventure whatever.

Forgot to mention before that the handstand comp didn’t happen. He was ‘sick’. Running scared I reckon. 

Two weeks time for a rematch. 

In reply to biscuit:

Once you've found them, the "right" (easiest) holds will definitely be quite jugs on the steep bit!

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM. Planning to get back out there in the next few weeks. 

STG/Weekly:

*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives)/new goal x2 sets of 3x3 chins or pulls ups each week as minimum - as I currently have no beast maker, currently doing push ups everyday. 
*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - one session
MTG:* lead The Most Monstrous Monster (21)  https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/glasshouse-mountains/tibrogargan... - end August 
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by end August
*Lead "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - by end Sept
LTG:
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18) - https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/bells-line-of-roa...

*climb a big wall before I'm 40 

Monday:

Training - lower strength: front and back squats

Tuesday:

1 hr Mt Coot-tha hike 

Wednesday:

Training - upper strength: push press, chest pulls, isolated movements, push jerk, v sit ups.

Thursday:

Training - 3x3 sets skiers, wall balls, clean and press, rope, sled / box lunge step ups, squats, push press, bicep curl and press / tuck holds

T/R session - tried some moves on a 26... it was hard but fun to work. 

Friday, Saturday, Sunday:

rest/sorting flat

 

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, the handstands area lot of fun, and anecdotally I reckon it's doing wonders for my shoulder stability. Finger feels pretty good today, having been largely ignored over the weekend (it seems the best way with these things), it's at that 'don't mess with me and i'll be fine' stage where I just need to ensure I am careful with what I do.

M: TRX; press up, flys, T's, low rows, reverse T's, IYT's, all that good stuff, still felt super tough, especially on my core, significantly less DOMS than last week though.

T: Indoor Boulder; Progressive AnCap; 6 6 move problems, 3 reps of each with 30 seconds rest, 5 mins between problems. Did this on general wall problems instead of the woody for finger reasons, still felt like a decent session.
8 on 5 off x 3.

W: Core

T: Gym; Bench up to 4 x 70kg, squat 3 x 4 x 60kg (still going steady with back), pull ups 3 x 4 x +40kg (very pleased with this), new exercise - farmers walk 4 x 10-12metres x 90kg. Really enjoyed the farmers walk, coach of coaches Dan John suggests this is the single thing he regrets not doing more as a young athlete to build raw strength, so i'm happy to add it to the list. I could really feel it at the top of my shoulders. Didn't have proper farmers bars so used two barbells, keeping them level was the hardest thing, but that's just bonus wrist strengthening, right? Grip felt super solid considering it was on the shiny centre of the barbell.
Indoor Boulder; Split Continuity; 3 reps of problem then 6 mins on easy ground, 3 sets. Also had a little play with the weekly comp problems, still can't do the ones I can't do!

F: Stressful day driving 90 mins each way to look at a potential new car that turned out to be a dirty dog, then dealing with new tenant in flat, and trying to arrange re-decoration of other flat, got to 5 o'clock exhausted having done nothing.

S: Indoor Routes; Blowing a hoolie on the South Coast so we went to Calshot, did reps of the first 14-16 moves on the 7c/8a project for linked boulder session. Incidentally got a high point on the route whilst doing so!

S: Nothing, very lazy day, little bit of DIY club.

Motivation has been pretty low this week, there have been a bunch of external factors contributing to extra stress which is unusual for me, so I did miss 2.5 sessions from the plan, but I was also aware of not overloading the iffy finger, so I think it's all worked out ok, the finger is improving and i'm not resenting the training.
Good news is I have hit the 50% mark on the handstand challenge, ticked over 1800 seconds yesterday. On Tuesday I also managed my aim of getting a 30 second handstand from a kick up (as opposed to off a wall) and I managed it twice in a row, one of which was 41 seconds!

FC600: 60 minutes of handstanding - 1840/3600 seconds. Stretch goal - 60 second hold!
+60kg pull up - +55kg
6 onsights 7a or higher in a day (in Kaly) - Picked Secret Garden as a potential venue...

STG: (this week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day -
* Every session on new plan - 
* Another 5 x 30 second handstand - 

STG: (last week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day - FAIL 1/7 Must do better
* Every session on new plan - FAIL 7/9.5
* Another 5 x 30 second handstand - FAIL 4/5

MTG: (up to Kaly in September)
* Onsight 7c in Kaly, suggestions welcome
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 3 good ring muscle ups in a row
* Squat and Deadlift 100kg - Sq-70kg DL-100kg

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 100/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3 * tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 4/10
* Squat and deadlift 2x bodyweight
* Go to Kilnsey - August with Ally?
* Get to December without any new injuries
* reasonably static muscle up
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* Onsight 8a+/Redpoint 8b+ in a day by March 2022 (40th Birthday)

In reply to AJM:

Sure do - but they're all new route projects

8b/+ x2 (0/2), 8a/+ x5 (2/5), 7b-c+ x10 (5/10 +3 this week)

Week 30

M – 27km flat road biking. OHP 3x8@40kg. Rings (lower, on knees for fwd T & Is). 3x10 Ring dips with feet on stool. Static core 40s on/20s off x6. 2x 7/3/60/10 with grippers.

T – Rest. Oh the joy of ab, neck and shoulder DOMS.

W – Still felt a bit overcooked from training on Monday, but went to the Cornice anyway. Martial Call (6c+) 6c+/7a link warm-up. Failed flash, failed RP on Old Man River (7b). 3rd go RP. Same deal with Keep on Rollin' (7c). Not my finest hour.

T – Minor weights session (DL & OHP @ 40kg) in the garden as I thought I might get out Friday (which didn’t happen)

F – See above.

S – Kilnsey. 6c warm-up. Point of Vu (E5 6b) OS (7a+/b, though i went most of the way up Vissy-Vu before stepping right). Realised rope wasn’t long enough for Aboriginal Sin so had 3 tie-ins on Epic Time (8a+). Good route – funky moves; keen to get back and RP.

S – Epic headache all day whilst shopping, sunday lunching & house cleaning. No exercise beyond stretching and foam rollering neck to alleviate headache.

 

In reply to AJM:

Hey AJM,

I know the feeling, I'm at that point were it's reducing the amount of sleep I'm getting which is not good for training.

Monday: @ the wall. climbed a couple of v4/5's,  then alot of trying to do problems.

Wednesday: @ the wall. climbed a tricky problem,  v6 probably,  pleased to get it took some serious effort.

From Friday onwards I started to feel pain in the joints of my right hand little finger. Feels slightly better today, but needs more rest. Not sure if it's swollen joints or a proper finger strain, time will tell...bit gutter. ...full on work schedule has probably been a big factor but hey ho.

 

 

In reply to biscuit:

What an awesome goal route! Following your training for potatoes with interest.... 

 

In reply to AJM:

Ugh France is bad for eating lots. Still a bit on the power weekend and nothing in the week pattern, but life circumstances are killing training at the moment. I've even cancelled my wall direct debit! 

FC600-wise, I have now ticked the alpine bit, and possibly the handstand bit? I realise I didn't set a measurable goal, so will need help to decide whether I've met my goal of doing a "convincing" one... https://www.instagram.com/p/Blu94dcF2zj/

M - Led Arete des Cosmiques (AD 3) Every bit of the hype lived up to and super quick even though we were backed up the whole way - just had some gaps to enjoy the views. Digital Crack (8a) now firmly added to the BHAG list. I had a good look while queuing for the flake. Altitude was fine and definitely developing a mid-grade ticklist for quick jaunts to Cham.

T - SPAing for friends at La Joux - nice little crag with excellent views and stream- then bus to Geneva and on to wine country.

W-T - handstand work. 

F - Local Dordogneshire crag doing routes in the 6s

S -S - Travel

In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

As resident handstand super-expert and all-round modest guy, the looks like a pretty convincing handstand to me!

Now do a longer one!

In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

100% a handstand! Nice work.

In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Cheers. It’s all been totally unplanned but is also totally great because of that. 

As for your handstand that’s a definite handstand and just to put it in context that’s about as good as I get atm after over a month of practising most days. Good work! 

In reply to Dandan:

On it

In reply to AJM: Hi all, more of a placeholder that a record of training as we had to abandon our (fantastic) walk due to the sudden death of my father.

Rather lost track but have been doing bits and pieces here and there and am just off to Brean before going back into the maelstrom of funerals and the like.

Stopped the ITB stretches which has annoyingly led to a recurrence of severe hip pain so will see how we get on today.

Rich

 

In reply to Solsbury:

Really sorry to hear about your father, I hope all is as well as can be with you and your family.

In reply to Solsbury:

Sorry to hear that Richard. As Tyler says, hope things are as ok as can be at such a tough time.

In reply to AJM:

Box moving going slowly, climbing nonexistent. Workload and psyche are issues at the moment: one high, one low and the wrong way round. The busy workload has, ironically, helped me hit weight and body fat targets, cos I've been too busy to snack!

Holiday starts Friday, so that'll be one less thing getting in the way!

Onward and upward.

In reply to AJM:

A very belated and short entry so I’m not awol.

Swam 1k mon-fri at lunch

commuted on the bike both ways mon and tues

ran 10k Saturday in rough windy conditions 

 

In reply to AJM:

Very late.  Sorry!

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 4lbs (2lbs gain)

M - 4k run

T - Rest

W - 5 mile walk with baby on back (the Four Waterfalls walk)

T - S - Rest / baby stuff

This was my last week with Llew before returning to work.  So I went out for a nice walk on Wednesday, there's quite a lot of steps down to the various waterfalls.  Then the weekend was a nice mix of birthday parties and chilled family stuff.  However too many cafe visits, so the weight crept back up again.