UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_593-690213

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

AJM - 

Guy127917 - how’s the weather been up there? Glad you enjoyed Parisellas - somewhere I’ve walked past but never actually climbed at. Classic, if not initially the most appealing!

hms - are you doing much to work on the shoulders at the minute (I note a few references to avoiding particular stuff to avoid mangling them, which suggests stability training needed?)? What’s your current pulley setup? I have one of the old plastic pulleys that slips over an oval carabiner you can have if you want it. Or get a revolver for added utility on draggy clips?

Cyan - hectic week if the details are indistinct? Having seen your coffee habit I can’t imagine how much is required to get you jittery!

AlanLittle - projects fall in the Peak? Glad to hear you can feel the training working. Norwich - I’ve no idea how you tap into it but logically climbers far from rock should be prepared to spend to fund a decent wall, given they are inevitably going to spend more time there, although as you say it hasn’t always worked in practice (see Cambridge in the past, and many others)

Si dH - sometimes you’ve just got to go with the motivation as far as goals go (I’m sure I was going to have a rope on at some point this summer!). Make it to the Cornice?

Tyler - I think you can count it despite some gerrymandering. Surprised to hear the 7b rated that highly, it’s never been on my radar and there is some decent competition.....

biscuit - Fiesta will certainly be an outing. Still very high on my Wishlist!

MauraLorrissey - just looking at your training plan, an outsiders observation - there’s a lot of gym-style sessions you are doing, and an ambition to do 3 climbing sessions a week which you aren’t. Are you able to rebalance?

Dandan82 - farmers walk is “walk carrying heavy stuff” right? It’s never something I’ve really looked at - is it one of those that’s meant to hit everything, or is it a specific exercise for some muscle group or another?

Ally Smith - got to love the suffering that a bit of TRx and rings can inflict! Back on Epic Adventures?

Powderpuff - sleep disruption just makes it all worse! How’s the finger?

Rebecca Ting - Ali is most jealous of your handstand progress. I’m currently banned from starting attempting any until she has got it properly cracked! What made the mid -grade Wishlist, apart from Digital Crack?

Richard Popp - sorry again for your sad news.

Ardo - happy holiday hope that gives more space for climbing.....

the sheep - sneaking in and keeping things ticking over

Fit Club 600 goals:

AJM - some DWS (Gates of Greyskull, Crazy Notion, Z-Cars, Crab Party, Freeborn Man), some E2/3 (2x E2), 10/13 weeks of consistent weekday training (4/6)

Dandan82 - 3600s handstand (1840/3600), +60kg pull-up (+55kg), 6 fr7 onsights in a day, 60s handstand

Richard Popp - a new 7a

Ally Smith - 8b/+ x2 (0/2), 8a/+ x5 (2/5), 7b-c+ x10 (5/10)

Si dH - Ancap routine at recommended load (70/80)

Planetmarshall - E2 onsight

Tom Green - 600m new route in Kyrgyzstan 

Rebecca Ting - more DWS, Animal Mag, something in Cham (Petit Aig Verte and Cosmiques), solid base of E1-3, convincing handstand (tick)...

Tyler - 6 new routes (4/6),  6 new >E1 (0/6), 6 crags that you’ve not visited in the last decade (1/6)

biscuit - Trowbarrow traverse, black circuit, 11% body fat

 

In reply to AJM:

Didn't manage to get out at all this week! The little one wasn't well Tuesday, noone else was out and I was busy at work anyway Friday, and we've had the in-laws down this weekend who have wanted something pretty chilled.

So I did some training. Been hot but I've pressed on .

- Tuesday, fingerboard. AA slot, some progress.

- Thursday, fingerboard. 2 finger pockets, ok session but nothing to write home about

- Saturday, snuck a quick but promising set of front lever progressions, micro session. 

- Sunday, others have gone out so I've managed to fit a half decent session in. So hot though. Couple of sets of ohp (36kg), squats (same), some more front lever progressions, TRX I and T (facing down). Some TRX saws (which, if you hold end end of the moment, seem to really load the back in a way I'm sure I don't recall them doing in the past) to finish off. Shower!!!

Got Tuesday afternoon off this week to hit the cove, maybe Friday pm too (big tide, but looking a bit swelly). Busy at a wedding at the weekend.

In reply to AJM: I've been going to yoga which does a fair amount of shoulder stuff plus try to slot in TRX each week somewhere, but you're right - when things get busy, (p)rehab is the thing that tends to get forgotten. 

I'm now the owner of a lovely shiny purple pulley (it was a quid cheaper than the other colours?!). Had previously been using an elderly revolver. New pulley immediately mean less friction so one of my sessions took a psyche nosedive.

Incredibly busy week:

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening - shoulders.
T - taxi service for D2. FB in evening: 10/3/5/4 x6 with +2kg. Rest then 7/3/6/1 x10. 
W - taxi service for D2. FB in morning: 7/3/60/10, then continuous hangs, then another 7/3/60/10. The continous hangs were the thing that the new pulley rather spoilt - needs an additional 2kg assist to get close to last time's figures. (P)rehab in evening: wrist curls, OHP, pinch grip etc.   
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. It was like a bloody sauna in there. 15 routes in pairs including 7ax4 & 6cx3. Knackered by the end.
F - Sea Walls traverse with D2 as official mat dragger. Got a new far point of ~4/5 of the traverse. 7/3/60/10 x2 with big assist when we got home.
S - bit of urban walking. Core session.
S - Taffs Well West with D1. I'm counting this as ancap as it was trying really hard on the brutal 7b+. Considerable progress but 1 move still eludes me. 

week starting tomorrow is a low volume week which is just as well - so tired.

In reply to hms:

Strength TRX (low to medium reps) or endurance/light stuff (high reps or otherwise each rep quite easy)?

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy.  I didn't make it to the Cornice this weekend - Sol's birthday party yesterday ended up taking a bigger toll on today than I expected so I just did a fairly short bouldering session. 

Goals:

Caviar

Powerband

7B+ on my next Font trip. 

FitClub600, goal: complete an ancap fingerboard session at 80% of max hang weight.

M: fingerboard ancap session, upping the load a bit. Managed the first 4 sets with +5kg, failed near the end of the 5th set, dropped to 2.5kg for the final set and failed towards the end of that too.

T: went to the Climbing Unit. Planned to do some steep bouldering but felt wasted so focused on doing a number of oranges and blues on the near-vertical walls. Felt like I was moving well on those and flashed most things. 

W:  rest

T:  rest, training cancelled due to baby shenigans, too tired to do anything after he finally went to sleep. 

F: fingerboard in evening. Did 6 x 10 second max hangs with +22kg (total weight about 88% of max) then an ancap session. Managed it all with bw+5kg, just. Total weight hung about 73.5% of max. 

S:  rest. Sol's first birthday party bbq, I might have had a few drinks and sausages. ~25 adults and 10 kids, 8 of whom were under 18 months...

S: morning bouldering at Blackwell Dale for a couple of hours. I pulled on some crimps but didn't really achieve much. Too warm and too fat. Evening ancap fingerboard session. Done with bw + 8 kg, just failing a second from the end of the last rep on the last two sets. I'll take that. Slightly lighter than I was on Friday due to all the sweating, so equates to 75% max hang weight.

Bit of a funny week. Fingers felt OK but I was very weak in my upper body for both bouldering sessions. Partially due to lack of rest; the ancap sessions seem to hit my shoulders surprisingly hard. Also feeling heavy - weight has crept back up a couple of kg. Need to diet. 

Good progress in ancap training although I think hitting the goal is still going to be tough. I've realised that for weeks 599 and 600 I'm on holiday in Japan so I only actually have another 4 weeks... 

 

Si

In reply to AJM:

Short haired be from me this week and for the next few by the look of it.....

Fell off at bouldering wall on Tuesday night and landed on my chalk bag I. Such a way that I went over on my ankle. Fuming as it's usually something I'm very conscious of. I assumed I done some tendon damage but my health in insisted I go for an x-ray and it looks like may be a chipped bone. Far worse than when I did it in Oct 2014 and that took a few months to heal. Might need to re-evaluate my week 600 goals. 

In reply to Tyler:

Aw sh1t. Gutted for you. 

Slim chance it might not be? Fingers crossed.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

This week I've gone for little and often as I don't want to launch back into training and injure myself. I've not got time!

I managed 2 sessions at BUK. First one I bouldered hard, for me, then went to do some circuits as soon as I felt the power going. That didn't take too long. Circuits were awful and I couldn't string 3 moves together on anything over 6c. Gave up. Did some FOC. Gave up. I am not very fit atm.

Second was better as I just warmed up on the easier circuits and then tried the black. Bearing in mind I have previously done this it was a bit demoralising to start with. My plan was to break it into 4x12-15 move sections to use as an ancap workout while I build fitness. Turns out that's no good if you can only do about 6 moves before falling off. I did remember how to pull hard after a while and manged some good links of the right length. Can't do the crux move anymore though. Filmed myself climbing and i'm very rigid and stiff in the hips. My hip flexors feel very tight atm, especially the right. I'm guessing it'll have been the biking.

1 quick routes session after coaching that was literally 6a, 6b (fall practice) and a 6c attempt on the steep wall. Supposed to be hard for 6c and I got further than I thought I would but I still fell off.  

Had a session of repeaters on a medium campus rung - 4 sets (7on 3 off for a min, 2 min rest) before epic failure set in.

Trowbarrow traverse - i'm going to do the left to right version. Looked at first half today and worked all moves out. Did some good links. Felt OK really considering it was very hot. 

Bike ride yesterday - 60k 1400m ascent. Tried hard but I've lost a bit of fitness since france for sure. No surprise there. Thumb flared up after. Must be biking that's causing it.

Diet has been mainly good but fell off the waggon last night with beers and today with two greasy sausage rolls to cure the hangover.  

This week:

AN Cap circuits after coaching

Trowbarrow traverse - hopefully twice

Repeaters - 2 sessions. Beat 4 sets. 

Stretch hips every day

Leg rehab 4x

Measure body fat

In reply to AJM:

Yep - more of the same this week.

Nope - no time to get to Kilnsey this week. Hopefully this week/end?

Week 31

M – Cornice. Une Crime Passionel (7a) E4 6a/6c+ hybrid warm-up. Bit of a flash-pump as it was still dirty and I over-gripped. 3 goes dogging newbie. Tried and adopted new beta for crux – thanks to the lanky kneebar tw@/genius (delete based on opinion). This makes this project much more appealing – as it’s probably only 8b now? Done it in 3 very overlapping sections, including; floor to mid-lenny, jug through lenny to crux, and a big link of crux to chains.

T – Rest. Very quickly pressed 40kg over my head 10 times for 4 sets at lunchtime. Definitely getting less weak at OHP ???? but this maybe these lifts are contributing to reoccurring headaches ?

W – DIY club.

T – Cornice. Gardener's Question Time (7a) OS warm-up (hms - you looked at this when we were at the Cornice - you would have hated how dirty and reachy this is!) A bit dirty and a bit of a flash pump – maybe I need to use a gripper or something on the walk-in? New links on the project – now in 2 sections. Pseudo RP effort had me tickling the crux crimp from the floor. Repeated the 7a by headtorch to recover draws as Toothless Dan could make the reach...

F – Trained before visiting parents arrived. An-cap campus; 25moves/45s on/2:30min off x8. Failed on last 2 sets about move 15. Bunch of rings & 5x 80kg DL singles. Then 12x 1on/1off FoC.

S – Nowt. DOMS.

S – Nowt. Deeper DOMS.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, yes that's a pretty good description of the exercise, i'm certainly not being any more technical than that; pick up heavy thing, walk.
I think it's supposed to hit a lot of areas, you basically have to tense your whole body while you walk, it must be good for core in one way or another. Personally I feel it in my traps, (shrugging muscles) so maybe that's a weak spot of mine.

A pretty decent week overall, the finger has been keeping itself to itself while not really limiting me too much so that's good. Topped the week off with a pretty disappointing trip to Portland, everything vaguely hard was a slimy grease-fest so I settled for a swim. Still had a better day than the poor chap who fell clipping the 4th bolt and decked onto his ankle though, ouch.

M: Core

T: Gym; bench 4 x 3 x 70kg, squat 4 x 3 x 70kg, Farmers walk 4 x 12m x 90kg, then the big one, had a crack at my max weighted pull up and just - *just* managed to do +60kg! New PB for me, very pleased. Tried a bodyweight pull up immediately afterwards and it felt like I could fire myself through the ceiling!
Indoor Boulder; Prog. AnCap; 6 move problem, 3 reps with 30s rest, 6 sets. Even did some on the woody with no issues!
Also completed the 5 weekly comp problems as a sort of warm-up, i'm joint 2nd at the moment but 1st place is a fair way ahead, have to hope he goes on holiday for a week...!

W: Nothing

T: Indoor Routes; Cap-Pow; 2 reps of 7b-ish route with 60's rest. 5 sets. Sweaty. Nice to try hard on a rope though.

F: TRX; Flys, T's, Low rows, Reverse T's, IYT's. Getting much less DOMS from this session now.

S: Portland; Went to Wallsend South but conditions were not ideal. Despite the air feeling quite dry and there being no haze, it was still really greasy in certain areas. Took 2 goes to do the underwhelming Shibumi (7a) and then punched myself in the head while greasing off of Reverence (7a+). Reverence seemed like a good route worth returning to in better conditions. The grease put me off trying anything harder, but we did the do fantastic The Empire State Arête (6b+) on our way out. 
Watched 12+ people across 4 emergency services try to extract the guy who broke his ankle, i'm sure there has to be a more cost effective way to do these things...

S: Fingerboard; 3 x 2 pull ups on 18mm edge @+35kg. 4 x 7/3x6 on 18mm adge @+18kg. Finger felt absolutely fine and fine today, very pleased with this. 
Aborted a session in the bouldershed as it had taken on all the main characteristics of an oven, was around 40 deg c inside.
I also managed a new PB handstand, 51 seconds! Getting to 60s is going to be a case of endurance rather than balance now, I only dropped this one as my elbows started to give way!

Got a boulder comp coming up on Tuesday, the last round I felt weak and feeble and we decided it was down to my poor pre-event nutrition so this time we are loading up the carbs for the next 2 days to keep energy levels high, i'll report back how it went, whether the extra energy overcame the couple of pounds of bloat i'm likely to put on!

FC600: 60 minutes of handstanding - 2400/3600 seconds. Stretch goal - 60 second hold! - 51/60
+60kg pull up - +60kg!
6 onsights 7a or higher in a day (in Kaly) - Picked Secret Garden as a potential venue...

STG: (last week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day - 3/7
* Every session on new plan - 6/9
* Another 5 x 30 second handstand - TICK!

STG: (this week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day -
* Every session on plan - 
* Another 5 x 30 second handstand - 

STG: (last week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day - FAIL 1/7 Must do better
* Every session on new plan - FAIL 7/9.5
* Another 5 x 30 second handstand - FAIL 4/5

MTG: (up to Kaly in September)
* Onsight 7c in Kaly, suggestions welcome
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 3 good ring muscle ups in a row
* Squat and Deadlift 100kg - Sq-70kg DL-100kg

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 104/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3 * tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 4/10
* Squat and deadlift 2x bodyweight
* Go to Kilnsey - August with Ally?
* Get to December without any new injuries
* reasonably static muscle up
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* Onsight 8a+/Redpoint 8b+ in a day by March 2022 (40th Birthday)

In reply to Tyler:

Bolx!

I was doing easy climbing within 10days of an aulsion fracture on my ankle - maybe test it out gently in the next week?

In reply to AJM:

Hi Fitclub cru,

Erm, since I last wrote, which was a while ago, I HAVE been training. But also moved house, twice, and am now in month 5 of our pregnancy.

 

However, more important news:

Summited Matterhorn on Friday morning and wanted to share a couple of thoughts, given all my concerns in the run up.

Route: Lion ridge ascent, Hornli descent: 13 hours. (Abruzzi to Hornli hut)

1)Carrell hut is not a  good place to sleep. Instead stay at the refuge Abruzzi, then take a very steady plod up to the hut, leaving at 1AM. This saves water carrying, and food for the night. The walk up is very easy. We arrived at 4:30, fresh and keen as the people at Carrell stirred and packed after clearly a shitty night's sleep and poor feeding.

2)Same on the way down. Sack off Hornli hut, it is very expensive. Instead, walk another two hours down to the Swartze Hotel. Cheaper and better food/accommodation. This does make for a 15 hour day, but if you've prepped well, it is totally doable.

3)Lion ridge is WAAAY more fun/interesting than Hornli. If you don't fancy the full traverse, 'do yourself a favour' and take on Lion ridge instead of Hornli. It also felt safer: more stable rock.

4)The summit ridge and snow field IS a bit scary, but the video's you've watched beforehand make it look more scary (wide angle go-pro exaggerates the severity of the ridgeline). Couple of deep breaths and concentrate on your feet and you'll be ok. (This was a big concern for me as my exposure head game ain't strong) In the conditions we had, the snow section was about 30 minutes of intense concentration. Be ready for it and know it'll be over after that.

5)The climbing is easier than I expected. (Yes it is always a relative statement, sorry) The North ridge of Tryfan scrambling has moves that are of similar effort. It really is a scramble, not a climb.  But the endurance is key, so, rather than spend time putting up hard routes, focus on low intensity training for extended periods. Perhaps most useful for us was the few weekends in Ogwen Valley, doing loops on tryfan and the glyders. Got to 'know' what an 1800m scrambling day felt like. (Tryfan, bristly, devils kitchen, side of Idwal slabs, Cniefen Rib, Yr Gribben, Bristly, Tryfan - sticking to the hardest scrambling on all ridges was great practice)

6)Nav on Hornli really is as hard as people describe. (Naively I had wondered how hard a ridge can be to nav, but being off route by a few meters can suddenly leave you in a dangerous spot. Time lost here can be critical, well worth a guide for that alone. (As well as the help, back up, and improved ability to move at speed etc)

7) Hire boots are surprising comfy! Swiss air lost our gear bags so we had to borrow and hire soime of our gear. Happily this meant I tried a pair of lighter boots than my Mont Blancs, which helped. In reality, the super light boots like the Ribelle would be ideal for a summer ascent. 

There are loads more pointers and thoughts of course, but the above are those that come to mind.

 

Finally, wanted to say thank you to you lot. I appreciate my 6-8 week absence might leave some of you thinking 'who the hell is this' but I didn't drop off completely, I had you guys and this forum's accountability in mind on the Monday mornings I didn't want to go out, and I lurked in and out to get some inspiration from more regular posters.

 

Any way, you can insert your own inspirational/motivational platitudes in this bit: e.g. "You too can achieve your goals" etc

 

Of course the next question is: what do I do now, with the fitness I've earned in the past six months....?

 

 

In reply to biscuit and Ally:

Yes, no idea of long term prognosis but I was getting quite excited about doing some trad but that won't happen this year now. Possibly a good time to push for a hip replacement, I'm 50 next year and the Walker isn't getting any shorter or easier!

 

In reply to AJM:

Cheers, been off work for the week with the kids so the normal routine went completely out of the window. Nothing to report for the start of the week. Managed to go running Fri, sat ans sun. All around the 7km mark. No great pace due to the heat.

In reply to Andy Nelson:

Congrats on the summit! Will definitely read your post again in more detail and take some notes!

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. Needless to say I have been overtaken by events, funeral planning etc as good as it gets.

Managed some light therabanding etc some days.

Wed-Brean, only managed three routes before I lost focus but did the brutal pull at the start of the warm up first go and got a 6b+ so left quite happy. Like the look of Chepito into Coral Seas as my 600 goal but Brean is a surprisingly long trek at this time of the year.

Sun-Sally in the Woods-short but perfectly formed session. Did the traverse with its inflated grade three times-it is not easy but...did my straight up micro problem, F6A+? Made inroads into route straight up the highest point-everything so eliminate it is hard to know grade. I have topped out this face but not on the highest bit-5-6m and was not willing to do so this time.

In work just for today and got the funeral on Wednesday so not a training week but may get out next weekend.

 

Rich

 

In reply to AJM:

Bit of a slow week training wise but a good weekend in North Wales.

Mon - Strength training - first time I've been indoors in the gym for some time. Core. Weighted wide pullups, Box steps, Weighted ring dips.

Wed - Yoga

Sat - Soloed The Ordinary Route (D) to get up to Heather Wall. Original Route (VS 5a) P1 and seconded Continuation Crack (HVS 5a). Led Herford's Crack (HVS 5a) and seconded Yob Route (HVS 5a)

Sun  - Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c). Absolutely gutted to successfully negotiate the crux and then have a foot pop just below the finishing jugs. Logged it anyway because I felt I'd done the hard work, but will need to come back for a clean ascent. No such troubles with Ivy Sepulchre (E1 5b), great butch route that deserves to see more traffic - every bit as good as the other E1 classics on the Cromlech.

STG

 - Feeling pretty positive about attempting The Rasp (E2 5b) in a few weeks, but think some power endurance training might be in order. Not sure I can face going indoors, though. Maybe someone can show me the mysterious ways of Peak Limestone bouldering.

MTG

 - Routes : 

The File (VS 4c)
Suicide Wall (HVS 5b)
The Hen Cloud HVSs

The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a)
The Left Unconquerable (E1 5b)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)

- Problems

Crescent Arête (f5+)
Banana Finger (f6A)

LTG

- Ama Dablam possibly end 2018
- US/Canada trip in Winter 2018

BHAG

London Wall (E5 6a)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

In reply to AJM:

Hey AJM,

Finger is definitely strained, going to give it another weeks rest before slowly building up the amout and intensity of climbing.

Monday: 30 minute run.

Wednesday: tested out finger. Climbed v2, v3, v4 and did some more easy climbing. Did 3 sets of my usual exercises.

Friday: not sure if it qualifies as exercises but my boys did kids yoga at home and I joined in.

Sunday: diy club: cut 15 meters of privit hedge in the blazing sun, feel the burn.

 

 

In reply to AJM:

Competitive coffee drinking is not very smart really, is it...

Mon: Rest.

Tues: Wall. Problems up to V5, about an inch short of the top hold of V6 project a couple of times. Need to move my foot up - sketchy :-/

Wedns: Wall. Short sharp session on an excellent but very tough new set.

Thurs: Rest.

Fri: Rest.

Sat: Stony Bank. 6a+, 2x 6b+. Quick RP of Burlesque (7a), very close to the onsight. Thrashed around on Jocasta (7b, short and bouldery).

Sun: Trow Gill. Handful of onsights including Still Waters (6c, type 2 fun). Did Open for Business (7a) second go, again very close to onsighting. Fitness better than I deserve, frankly.

In reply to AJM:

STG: Find climbing partner(s) for a few days in the UK in the next couple of weeks between family visits. Done; repeat next week.
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

Family holiday with a brief excursion to the Peak.

M: 
T: 
W: Stoney West. Had my eye on Can't Climb, Won't Climb (7a). I thought it looked good when I visited the crag previously, and the comments in the ukc log make it clear that it's a one-mover at the absolute bottom of the grade. Ideal target for a first 7a onsight attempt then, but the one move turned out to be too powerful for me in the two goes I had time for.
T: Cheedale Cornice. Totally schooled. I'm a great believer in gentle warming up, and a flash pump on the fine but  desperate Brief Camouflage (6c) was anything but. Had a bolt to bolt play on Martial Music (7a) discovering just how hard 7a on polished, inscrutable Peak lime can be. (UPDATE: especially when it's 7a+ in the current definitive guide, as I discovered later in Outside)

Walking down Cheedale also reminded me though that, although I often compare the Frankenjura to the Peak, I don't know of anything there as utterly idyllic as the Cheedale-WCJ stretch of the Wye. The rock is nicer in the 'jura though.
F: 
S: 
S: Shoulder. mobility, yoga

In reply to AlanLittle:

I'd be up for some redpoint attempts in that range in Cheedale and elsewhere if you're looking for partners, Alan. Unfortunately I'm only available evenings and weekends, though.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Thanks. I have family commitments at the weekend, but might manage an evening or two free later in the week. Will mail you if so.

In reply to AJM:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 4lbs (sts)

M - Rest

T - 16 routes at the Rec

W - S - Rest / back in work!

Back in work this week after 8 weeks looking after my son.  That was lovely, but utterly tiring.  Looking forward to a bit of rest.   Got down the wall on Tuesday.  Still not consistent enough with sessions.  Two sessions a week seems miles away as well.  However, I'm back into 6as.  Which is great.  The strength is returning as well.  I have toned up as well in a few areas.  I doubt that the old fat/muscle thing is really explaining the weight staying the same, but I suspect that it's partly to do with it.  Once the weight belt is off, I should be nice and strong.  That's definitely easier said than done.  Really looking forward to Pembroke in a few weekends.  Hopefully I'll get the STG done.  But there's again been a few too many meals out over the past few days, so who knows.

 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy, climbing or not, it's good to be on holiday.

Last week was boozin', box moving and finishing up at work. Last two finished, so just need to knock the first one on the head and get to the crag, instead of the pub.

Happy days.

In reply to AJM:

A bit of a dud climbing week with work and getting stuff together for my sister’s excellent wedding. I did make a wedding cake out of cake and scotch eggs though so perhaps that can be my achievement for the week. We went to Symonds Yat on Sunday but tired from 4 hours of bad dancing the night before so nothing of note! 

Things should be looking up for my next post though!