UKC

Fit Club week 595

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 AJM 12 Aug 2018

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_week_594-690616

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

AJM 

hms - different pulley just means a need to rebenchmark. Back on the traverse this week? How hard is it route-grade, do you think (I assume it’s route length?)?

Si dH - I find the longer periods of hanging pretty testing on the shoulders as well. Mind you, I’m also finding that some of the trx stuff can leave my lower back feeling worked for a couple of days afterwards, which means a bit more need for scheduling than I’m used to!

Tyler - nooooo! What’s the damage report a week in?

Biscuit - keep plugging away - it’ll come back! Any more progress at trowbarrow this week?

Ally Smith - progress each session on the project sounds like promising stuff, nice one

Dandan82 - 600 goals all lining up well! Shame about poor conditions at Wallsend though.

Andy Nelson - congratulations on the Matterhorn!

the sheep - quiet week but still getting the miles in at the end

Richard Popp - yeah Brean is definitely a crag with a very seasonal approach drive!

planetmarshall - bad luck on the top of the Corner, but a good effort to get through the crux, my dim memory is that it wasn’t easy!

Powderpuff - I remember the fun of hedge cutting well! We had a massive leylandii one that I had to get rid of a few years back. How’s the finger progressing?

Cyan - a couple of near misses on 7as isn’t a terrible place to be. Did you get the V6?

AlanLittle - did you make it back to the Peak this week? Chee dale is a lovely spot isn’t it. Stoney on the other hand!

mattrm - I totally get where you’re at with work feeling comparatively restful! Looking forwards to Pembroke...

Ardo - how’s that crag:pub balance shaping up?

Rebecca Ting - teasing us with promises of a good report for this week!

 

 

Fit Club 600 goals:

AJM - some DWS (Gates of Greyskull, Crazy Notion, Z-Cars, Crab Party, Freeborn Man), some E2/3 (2x E2), 10/13 weeks of consistent weekday training (5/7)

Dandan82 - 3600s handstand (2400/3600), +60kg pull-up (tick!), 6 fr7 onsights in a day, 60s handstand (51)

Richard Popp - a new 7a

Ally Smith - 8b/+ x2 (0/2), 8a/+ x5 (2/5), 7b-c+ x10 (5/10)

Si dH - Ancap routine at recommended load (75-ish/80)

Planetmarshall - E2 onsight

Tom Green - 600m new route in Kyrgyzstan 

Rebecca Ting - more DWS, Animal Mag, something in Cham (Petit Aig Verte and Cosmiques), solid base of E1-3, convincing handstand (tick)...

Tyler - 6 new routes (4/6),  6 new >E1 (0/6), 6 crags that you’ve not visited in the last decade (1/6)

biscuit - Trowbarrow traverse, black circuit, 11% body fat

 

 Tyler 12 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

> nooooo! What’s the damage report a week in?

Had my second visit to the fracture clinic on Friday and a second look at the x-ray suggests the damage they could see was from a previous break (although I can't remember breaking this leg for over 30 years, if at all). The swelling sometimes goes but soon comes back as soon as I'm up right, all told I think it could be a long one. We've just completed on a new house, work is hectic and I have exams to revise for so maybe not the worst time to be indisposed. 

Damage to my waist line could be considerable and longer lasting 

 Si dH 12 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy.  

Goals:

Caviar

Powerband

7B+ on my next Font trip. 

FitClub600, goal: complete an ancap fingerboard session at 80% of max hang weight.

M: rest

T: fingerboard, did a max hangs session (6 * 10 s hangs) with bodyweight +22 kg. Felt harder than it should. 4 sets of low rows, reverse flies, IYTs. Then tried an ancap session with bw +8kg (ie 75% of max) again. Failed after only 3 of the 6 sets. Felt quite unrecovered from Sunday generally, decided to have a few days rest.

W:  rest

T:  rest,  

F: rest

S:  Cheedale Cornice, trying Taylor Made again. Good session - refined my sequences a bit, did the route in 3 overlapping parts and went through the crux section fine several times, which previously felt really hard. However I am clearly really short of endurance, I find myself consistently boxed after 5 metres of climbing.

S: Half day at Cheedale Cornice again with Ally. Lots of condensation unfortunately, which meant some parts of Taylor Made were unclimbable. Refined my sequence at the top a bit and realised the kneebar rest low down can be a bit more comfortable if I use a pad.

Lost bit of weight this week which is good. Need to lose a bit more.

Got a day in N Wales planned again next week. Hopefully I'll tick something in either the Pass or the Cave.

 

Si

 Tom Green 12 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

Hi All, Thanks AJM. 

Back after two weeks in Kyrgyzstan. 

Obviously no structured training, (though I did take the theraband and keep the shoulder prehab going!) but a lot of graft load carrying, recce-ing the area, etc as well as climbing. 

Back home 4kg lighter, despite averaging 3500kCal per day. 

Acclimatised well (miles better than expected for 4500-5000m) and felt pretty fit and strong, which was a nice reward for all of the Z1 hours. Despite having doubts about the process over the last nine months, I’m now pretty sold on the aerobic aspects of the TFTNA principles. 

So, did the Q3/FC600 goal get ticked?

YES! 

FA of a beautiful ice line up the NE face of a 5000m peak. Would be an absolute classic if it was in the alps. 

TD, WI4. IV, 800m.

Will try and put up some photos but suffice to say I was very chuffed to come away with such a stunning route. 

Also, great learning opportunity from the point of view of expedition logistics and exploratory climbing tactics. 

 Solsbury 12 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy, dads funeral was on Wednesday and went as well as it might have done, there will be lots to do over the next few months sorting things out.

Realised I had missed a fingerboard session off last weeks, have been doing the weighted 5 sec repeaters as often as I can providing that I am not going to be climbing the next day. Going to do twice a week for another 2 weeks and change to something more power endurance-probably straight repeaters. I have also kept up the therabanding rehab most days and rehab weights when possible.

Would love to get back to running as anything properly aerobic is missing.

Everything has left me very tired and going back to work tomorrow which feels quite daunting.

So pulling on anything other than a fingerboard is-

TCA on Friday-very lack lustre, tired and feeling stuck with things I can do and things I cannot.

Redpoint today-7 routes to 6b+, enjoyable and saw some people I know.

Hopefully back on rock in the coming week.

 

Rich

 

Post edited at 19:37
OP AJM 12 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks me.

A quiet week this week, although slightly unavoidably so rather than just lacking commitment 

Tuesday - Lulworth. Usual bunch of warmups and then polished off Window of Opportunity (E5 6b). Excellent climbing, feel like there's some sequence refinement and it might then be in the repeatable category. Given 7b but certainly easier than Z-cars. Then fell off Z-cars twice re-remembering the sequence as part of a plan to link the two and tick Hornier than Thou (E6 6b).

Nothing else. Wedding this weekend, my parents staying Thursday until today to look after the wee man so not really much chance.

Now hit 50% on my dws ticklist - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2646 - but I've now ticked everything below Mark of the Beast on it at Lulworth so need to get back to Portland and Conner to pick up more ticks. Obviously plenty of other stuff I'm interested in at Lulworth but the ticklist was just trying to get the "big" ticks down on paper. 

Saw an excellent article on Durdle Door - https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2018/8/9/durdle-door - and whilst I've nearly zero desire to get on those routes as DWS the idea of a trip down there with a rope does have some appeal, photos look cool.

Hopefully out Tuesday again this week, low water so probably Hornier, and then have 3 days in Pembroke to try to work on the E2/3 bit of the 600 goals.

OP AJM 12 Aug 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

Nice!!!

 Tyler 12 Aug 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

Good job Tom, sounds ace. 

 Cyan 12 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

Not yet! Distracted by the new 45 set.

Mon: Rest.

Tues: Wall. Monster session on the 45. Mega fun.

Wedns: Rest.

Thurs: Wall. Still tired from Tuesday.

Fri: Wall for an hour. Getting very close to an excellent V6 on the 45. 

Sat: Cuttings. Very rainy but just about got away with bouldering. Did The World's Greatest Mono II (6C) which was good, wrenched my knee which was less good.

Sun: Project in Poole. Knee sore and feeling tired so took it very easy.

 

 hms 12 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM: Thanks for the stats AJM. Yes my logical head knows that a new pulley just means to recalibrate, but there's still a psychological effect! The traverse is a lot of moves long so should indeed merit a route grade. I'd be tempted to say somewhere around high 7a+?

This was a very quiet week on the plan - next week is something else.

M - cycle commute. Yoga.
T - cycle commute. Shoulder was a bit crabby so delayed circuits by a day.
W - cycle commute. Circuits: 4 to warm up, the 1min on, 2min off x10 on the steep 7a. Then 1min on, 1 min off x6 on the excellent 6b+. Sadly the 7a circuit is not going to be there much longer as the downstairs bouldering area is being redeveloped as lockers so more training stuff can fit in upstairs. This is good news in the long term but a bit of a pain for the next 4 weeks or so.  
T - cycle commute. UCR routes - got the burly 7a from last week, then did 3 new 6c+ routes - a grade a usually avoid like the plague.
F - core session. Drive to Portland.
S - outdoor routes turned into outdoor bouldering due to rain. With careful problem choice (thanks to Cyan) the on/off drizzle didn't matter. Got a V5 - first one. Excellent and surprisingly long day.
S - rained, lots, hard. Went to The Project to boulder in the dry. Higher than I'm used to so some diffidence about going for final moves. Goodness knows what the grades were as they don't even give ranges. Fairly long and gentle session. 

 biscuit 12 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

i'm plugging as much as I can. Still sticking with little and often, more through necessity than design.

I had a quick go on the circuit board at The Depot after coaching. Did the 6a+ and 6b+ without rest on the right hand board (usually my nemesis as I always fall coming down the steeper far end). Had a few mins off and then did the 6c on the left board, had a few mins off and then so nearly did the 7a on the right hand board. Stupid foot slip (yes coming down the far end) meant I dabbed. I carried on and finished it but can't claim it - it was more a step off than a dab if i'm honest...

Two sessions on Trowbarrow traverse. One piecing it together and some promising links and another where I nearly got it on my warm up go. That was surprising. I hadn't looked at the finish and messed it up as I hadn't expected to go that far. A handful of moves from the end. I just felt good so carried on. Basically it confirms what I knew. I can do a couple of hard moves, my endurance and recovery are ok but my ability to string a sustained sequence of more than 6 moves together is pants. Spent the rest of the session working the end. Even with the beta it's steep, slopey and with crap feet. Psyched to go back though.

I also did another repeaters session. 5 sets this time but the 5th was done with feet up on a step for some reps. That gets a terrible burn going so i'll do more of that.

Need to get on a rope, which I plan to do this week after coaching and if the weather doesn't play ball i'll go for some routes later on in the week.

I've been better at my knee physio (4 times) but need to up the session volume now.

Diet has been OK calorie wise but not great quality wise this weekend with family stuff going on = pub lunch, picnics and buffets.

This week:

knee physio x4 - complete 12 mins (currently at 6)

DQS - 20 + every day

Keep an eye on calories.

2 x trowbarrow

1x routes

1 x repeaters  

 planetmarshall 12 Aug 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

> Hi All, Thanks AJM. 

> Back after two weeks in Kyrgyzstan. 

 

> FA of a beautiful ice line up the NE face of a 5000m peak. Would be an absolute classic if it was in the alps. 

> TD, WI4. IV, 800m.

Sounds awesome, look forward to seeing the report. Was this an Alpine Club jobbie?

 AlanLittle 12 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

STG: Find climbing partner(s) for the remaining summer weekends at home. Already sorted for 18th-19th MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

More family holiday with another brief excursion to the Peak.

M: 

T: Shoulder mobility & yoga

W: Manchester Depot. Moderate bouldering (blues-blacks-reds) to warm up then circuits. Impressed with the boulder setting - they manage to set easy problems that are still technically interesting. This is rare & better than (e.g.) Boulderwelt back home.

T: 

F: Stoney West in the morning. Couple of warmups, then just managed to cross Can't Climb, Won't Climb (7a) off the to-do list before the rain rolled in. Hurrah. Had a tentative plan for a FitClub meet with Planetmarshall at Rubicon in the evening, which would have been after the rain & probably dry but didn't happen. Pity, thanks for the offer & hopefully better luck next time.  Attempted some more circuits @ Depot on the way back instead, on which my utterly feeble performance suggested that Rubicon may not have been a roaring success anyway. Also popped up to the Depot weights room though, and there discovered that I can still go under 4 minutes for a kilometre on the rowing machine. Somehow feels oddly harder than it did thirty years ago though.

S: 

S: 

In London for a couple of days now. Anybody up for a daytime session the The Arch tomorrow or Tuesday?

Post edited at 23:02
 Ally Smith 13 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

Morning yoof - thanks for the stats - more project high points, but now have 7 days off climbing. Holibobs :-D

Week 32

M – Cornice after work. Straight on to the project (poor warm-up strategy). #1 dogged #2 RP attempt = high point with LH on crux crimp and feet around into position to stand-up. #3 = same point, but with more tired LH. Re-worked the section to clip before the lenny and found a Monica Lewinski position; need to wear slightly stiffer boots though – dragons at a minimum. Stripped it – running out of daylight for after work routing now ?

T – Nowt

W – 1-armers, 1-arm shoulder shrugs (x5), 1-arm max hangs (all 10kg assist). 6x DL singles up to 105kg. 8x 90s on/30s off aero-power FoC. Failed 3s to go on final set – perfect intensity. Finished with 60min Pilates class.

T – Rest. Achy. Sports massage focusing on old infraspinatus injury.

F – Rest. Very achy shoulder from magic pokey

S – Big K. Epic Time (8a+) RP on 2nd tie-in thanks to new beta from the Moose. Got back on Aboriginal Sin (8a) and still found it $hit scary. 2nd go 1-hanged it – might feel alright if i go on it fresh?

S – Cornice – early start with Si dH – spooge after overnight rain/warm-front, so avoided obviously wet project. 6c OS warm-up. Eventually RP’d The Naive and Sentimental Lover (7c) after another 4 tie-ins; more like 7c/+ than the advertised 7b+? Fl-on-sight of 7b link-up. Quite tired.

 

UKCFC600: 8b/+ x2 (0/2), 8a/+ x5 (3/5), 7b-c+ x10 (7/10)

Post edited at 09:21
 Tom Green 13 Aug 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Sounds awesome, look forward to seeing the report. Was this an Alpine Club jobbie?

Thanks mate. We’ll be putting a report together over the next week or two. 

If was a self organised jobbie by a bunch of us from the Alpine Climbing Group (newly rejuvenated ‘sub-group’ of the AC). 

Turns out the organisation was harder than the climbing! Lots of lessons learnt for next time! 

 Tyler 13 Aug 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

Is Aboriginal now fully re-equipped? Not that it matters to me at the moment. 

 Ally Smith 13 Aug 2018
In reply to Tyler:

> Is Aboriginal now fully re-equipped? 

Not really, but it is clean now.

To make the start safer by avoiding the choss rock, i've added a bolt so you can traverse in from the start of Mandela.

PaulB added new bolts to the main roof traverse section, and a new belay on the headwall, but for reasons unknown didn't replace the 2 rusty bolts on the headwall. (I would speculate because this section is shared with a trad E6, Limerace?)

This 3 bolt section a short punchy 7c in it's own right, and coming after the strenuous and pumpy traverse, 7c+ ain't generous!

Brilliantly, the best rest before the crux is to actually do the Dave Pegg invert bat hang (though I wasn't bold enough to take my hands fully off!)

Still looking for a copy of the FA photo

 

 Tyler 13 Aug 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

> PaulB added new bolts to the main roof traverse section, and a new belay on the headwall, but for reasons unknown didn't replace the 2 rusty bolts on the headwall. (I would speculate because this section is shared with a trad E6, Limerace?)

Even if it is, if the bolts are there I'm not aware of any ethic that says they have to be shite!

> Still looking for a copy of the FA photo

I'm not making it up! It's a pity Mick Ryan doesn't still post as there's a fair chance it will be one of his. Alternatively Neil Foster might have a copy as it was in High Rock Notes

In reply to AJM:

Great job on Window - with current rate of chipping away at Lulworth I'm sure you'll get Hornier. We're definitely up for Portland/Conner if stars align. I'm 25% through the ticklist now! 

So in true me fashion, after hitting the critical point of sluggish inactivity, I went overkill and had a mental week of kick-starting activity again. Feels good to be more active again, but with the way my body feels I've definitely overdone it. Also need to keep an eye on finger, which has been okay while I was just doing weekends outdoors, but is not enjoying the return to wall stuff. Looking forward to Pembroke and getting on some proper trad. 

M -T - nothing

W - Brookes routes testing women's harnesses for a review. Jumped off the top of routes in every harness and caught Ben doing likewise.  Will definitely rope in some differently shaped women and repeat as part of the test. Also planning some very scientific racking up fully and sitting in the harness on a sling from my pull up bar for 30 mins to test sitting body position, support and comfort. Other thoughts for harness tests (beyond just going climbing in them) welcome!

T - Quick and ridiculous pop to Lulworth between meetings to manage a greasy morning tick of Animal Magnetism (7a+). Slightly scary fall the second time and not the warm and quick-drying conditions I have been used to at the venue. Still, delighted to have it done and already eyeing up the direct (Crazy Notion (E5 6b)) as well as looking to Portland, Conner, Pembroke and Devon for more DWS fun. Also assumed the people who were around when I was climbing were AJM's friends, but they weren't, so are probably really confused/wondering who the weirdo was. Was very glad of their support and company all the same!

F - AM - yoga PM - boulder mileage at Climbing Unit

S - Routes at Bamford testing harnesses. Saw a Lancaster, Spitfire and Hurricane as the BBMF went through. Enjoyed finally doing some easy classics - Gargoyle Flake (VS 4c) and Neb Buttress (HVS 5a) were delightful. 

S - AM - routes Wirksworth  PM - comp problems Climbing Unit

 planetmarshall 13 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

> planetmarshall - bad luck on the top of the Corner, but a good effort to get through the crux, my dim memory is that it wasn’t easy!

Yeah, initially I let out a proper primal scream of frustration which echoed round the Cromlech... But then Brown used 2 points of aid so I don't feel too bad. Ivy Sepulchre was a pretty good consolation prize.

Bit of an iffy week, though it feels good to be strength training again.

Mon - Yoga. Something called 'Ashtanga Fusion' - a bit sweatier than the usual session.

Tue - Rest day

Wed - Yoga. Strength session in the evening. Weighted Pullups and Ring Dips.

Thu - Did a fingerboard test using RandallCorp's 'Crimpd' app ( which I was pretty impressed with - quite slick ). My Beastmaker doesn't have a 20mm edge but since I'm weak I just used ~20mm of the deep 4 finger pockets. Managed to do 7 seconds of bodyweight,

Fri - Trail Run - 1:15, 8.7km, 360m.

Sat - Got stood up by a date which was massively annoying, it was a really nice morning and there were about 101 things I could have done with that time. Did some more strength training in the eve. Weighted pullups and ring dips.

Sun  - AW Sheffield. First time climbing indoors in yonks. 2x6a, 4x6a+ and failed on two of Yann's steep 6a+ routes. Interestingly while I'm probably climbing trad better than I ever have, I'm not nearly as strong. Hopefully I can recover a bit of that strength and have the best of both worlds before attempting The Rasp (E2 5b)

STG

  • 4.5 hours of Z1  
  • Continue the Strength training, but incorporate more leg work  
  • Introduce some fingerboard training. Maybe incorporate it into other strength work  
  • If it's wet, try some of RandallCorp's Aerobic Power routines. Probably at the Depot.

Fitclub 600

The Rasp (E2 5b)

MTG

 - Routes : 

The File (VS 4c)
Suicide Wall (HVS 5b)
The Hen Cloud HVSs
The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a)
The Left Unconquerable (E1 5b)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)

- Problems

Crescent Arête (f5+) Banana Finger (f6A)

LTG

- Ama Dablam possibly end 2018 - US/Canada trip in Winter 2018

BHAG

London Wall (E5 6a)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

 

Post edited at 10:50
 Dandan 13 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

> Dandan82 - 600 goals all lining up well! Shame about poor conditions at Wallsend though.

Cheers Andy, I'm going to up the handstand goal again because I passed 3000s last night and I still have 5 weeks to go! Going to up it to what I previously thought was a ludicrous but numerically suitable, 6000 seconds. My original goal of 600 seconds seems laughable now, I did 600 seconds last week alone!

Didn't get outside this week due to weather conditions, but to be honest I ruined my self a bit midweek so the rest probably did me good.

M: Resting up for upcoming bouldering comp (plus it's a rest week on the plan)

T: Boulder comp; I got 2nd which I was mostly happy with, there was only 2 points in it and I could have easily got 3 or more extra points by not charging off like a bull at a gate and getting some beta on a couple of problems before beginning, but that's how these things go.
I did get a couple of flashes that I was very happy with though, including a slab and a couple of world cup-style dynamic routes which I am notoriously bad on. I also think I was the only person to top what was supposed to be the hardest boulder, but it suited me, powerful and steep.
Overall, I tried really, really hard which was a good thing, it's good that I didn't have to favour any injuries or hold back at all.

W: Indoor Routes; All that trying hard came back to bite me, I was feeling pretty exhausted before I even started the session! 4 on 4 off x2 @ 7a/+ (downclimbing was a bitch) and Threshold up - 7b/+ 30 moves, 28, 26... 12 moves with rest = climbing time.  Completely ruined by the end with a hint of the old classic elbow overuse rearing it's head, which is fully understandable.

T: Indoor boulder; 6 reps of problem with 2.5 min rest 1.5 sets - This was basically a complete washout, I was knackered and the elbow overuse was really flaring up, seems it's been quite a while since I tried as hard as I did on Tuesday!

F: Nothing, bit of super light DIY

S: Indoor Boulder; just mooched about, elbows still complaining but slowly improving

S: Nothing, finally feeling a bit more energised but decided not to do any sessions to be in a good position ready for next week.

FC600: 6000 seconds of handstanding - 3008/6000 seconds. Stretch goal - 60 second hold! - 51/60
+60kg pull up - +60kg!
6 onsights 7a or higher in a day (in Kaly) - Picked Secret Garden as a potential venue...

STG: (last week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day - FAIL 4/7 getting there
* Every session on plan - FAIL even on a rest week, ruined!
* Another 5 x 30 second handstand - TICK, more like 10+

STG: (this week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day - 
* Every session on plan - 
* 600s handstands in a week - 

MTG: (up to Kaly in September)
* Onsight 7c in Kaly, suggestions welcome
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 3 good ring muscle ups in a row
* Squat and Deadlift 100kg - Sq-70kg DL-100kg

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 104/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3 * tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 4/10
* Squat and deadlift 2x bodyweight
* Go to Kilnsey - August with Ally?
* Get to December without any new injuries
* reasonably static muscle up
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* Onsight 8a+/Redpoint 8b+ in a day by March 2022 (40th Birthday)

 Tom Green 13 Aug 2018
 AlanLittle 13 Aug 2018
In reply to Dandan:

> (plus it's a rest week on the plan)

You seem to be having trouble grasping the concept 

 Dandan 13 Aug 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

Yeah, i don't rest particularly well, but that said, even the rest weeks have 4 or so sessions on the Lattice plan, so I never get to completely kick back! This one was distinctly not restful though, even for me.

 

 planetmarshall 13 Aug 2018
 Dandan 13 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

I forgot to follow up on the diet/nutrition plan for the comp, I had a double portion of breakfast (oats and fruit and greek yoghurt) Monday and Tuesday, a big carby meal Monday night, ate a good amount all day Tuesday (but not overly so) then had a banana and a protein shake when I left work (about 90 mins before comp), then an energy bite about when the comp started and one halfway through.

The results were great, I felt strong and energetic throughout but not overly hyped with no spike of energy followed by a slump. The difference compared to the last comp was significant, I spent the whole evening waiting for the energy to fade but it never happened!

I know i'm not breaking new ground here but i'm confident that what I ate leading up to the comp was the sole difference between coming 5th last time and coming 2nd this time, it's really that important.

 

 Powderpuff 13 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM: 

> Powderpuff - I remember the fun of hedge cutting well! We had a massive leylandii one that I had to get rid of a few years back. How’s the finger progressing?

You can empathise then, hedge cutting takes me a whole afternoon!

Im resting the finger until the end of the week to be sure it's had time to heal.

Not much in the way of exercise last week due to family and work commitments, just one 30-40 minute run...must do better.

 Climbthatpitch 14 Aug 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

Cracking Tom

 

Bet u are well happy

 

 

 Tom Green 14 Aug 2018
In reply to Climbthatpitch:

Thanks mate. Pretty chuffed!

So much more to do out there though. We barely scratched the surface. 

 Ardo 15 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

Crag:pub balance just about right for holiday. Took it easy at the beginning of the week, bit of, (bad), sport climbing on Tuesday, then packed up for a quick Lakes walking hit, before heading up to see family in Carlisle.

Walked up Pike o'Blisco in the dark, (late arrival due to M6 roadworks), bivvy on the summit: a star filled sky, shooting stars aplenty and the ISS passing overhead. Watch the sun rise and head over to Cold Pike to complete the Wainwright Southern fells book, before a coffee in Ambleside, some new shoes in Keswick and a short drive up to Carlisle for family, food and er, well, it's the weekend, some more booze.

 the sheep 17 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

Another quiet week, summer holidays really messing with the normal routine.

Mon -Friday swam a km each lunch time. No running or cycling due to a dodgy hamstring

 mattrm 18 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs (1lbs loss)

M - Rest

T - 4k run

T - S - Rest

Had a family visit and generally felt wiped due to work and childcare.  So wimped out of going down the wall.  Managed to get a run in tho.  Somehow lost a lb.  Didn't think I'd done well on the diet front, but it obviously worked.  So that's good.  Still only going back to the low point from a few weeks ago tho.  But better than nothing.


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...