UKC

Fit Club week 603

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 AJM 07 Oct 2018

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_week_602-693591

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

AJM

Somerset swede basher - solid progress on Cave Pervert, and I think I can see what at least part of your next weeks post is going to be.....

Powderpuff - glad you got away with it! Nice job on the V5 too, but take it steady!

hms - psyche high now! I’m not sure I could do 8 iterations on a Lattice, really neglected the base aero work the last few years

AlanLittle - where’s schmidtstadter then? Not one that rings a bell. I remember Schone being a nice wee crag. Keen to get back to the Frankenjura one of these days...

guy127917 - sounds like a nice trip with some good variety. Tell me more about Cadarese - always been on my list...

Pineappledog - 300 mile round trip is a serious mission. I’ve enjoyed ban y gor when I’ve been there, but I’m not sure I’d drive that far for it!

Ally Smith - nice one on Cave Slave! Did you manage to get back to Devils Gorge (is that link one of the 666 newbies, or a new new one?)

Dandan82 - sounds like an ace trip. Shame you didn’t click with secret garden, but big congrats on Aegialis and on some interesting thinking/learning about motivations...

biscuit - sounds like a bit of a mental week. Glad to hear things worked out ok with the A&E trip and the bike crash. You stay on top of things more this week?

humptydumpty - welcome welcome!

alexm198 - I always fancied the traverse over from the Dent du Geant as a way to get to the top of the Jorasses. But I don’t know where I’m ever going to find the time or mileage for that kind of thing any time soon!

The sheep - oh no! Gutted. How long a recovery?

Tom Green - found a replacement alpine goal yet? Glad you enjoyed a taste of redpointing slates a funny one isn’t it, but I can see why if you like quarried grit you also like it - all those little edges...

Ardo - having a quiet one. Given the way the weather is turning, having something to give you a warm glow is no bad thing

Tyler - sometimes life gets in the way doesn’t it. Any better this week?

 

Fit Club 666 goals:

I’m loving them so far team. Lots of devilish fun to be had with these. Keep ‘em coming! Have I missed any?

AJM - Mark of the Beast (or Blue Planet/Privateer); E5 (or equivalent); sport onsight/“quick tick” & some from Colors/Tennessee/Paradise Lost/Bird of Paradise/Return of the Gunfighter

Ally Smith - Devils Gorge newbies; Rock Atrocity; press a sport climber; 8c+

Tom Green - Satanic Verses

Dandan82 - Horny Lil' Devil/Mark of the Beast/Camino a la Perdicion; +66kg weighted pullup; 666 one-arm pullups; 666 30 second+ handstands; 66 routes at 7a and above including 6 routes at 7c+ and above.

alexm198 - Versant Sataniques, 1938 route 

 

 AlanLittle 07 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

The Schmidtstadter Wand is in Hirschbachtal, fairly far down in the southeastern corner of the 'jura and a bit away from the Trubachtal/Gößweinstein mainstream. It has one token 6a warm-up, the rest 6b to 7a+, so only really of interest to people - like me - operating in that range. And north facing. 

But the rock is just perfect. Schöne Aussicht is nice, yes, but the footholds are getting a bit glossy. Schmidtstadter is slightly steeper, more pockety & less polished. 

Post edited at 10:03
 biscuit 07 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for all your work over the last few weeks Andy.

Yes a much better week thanks. Last week I’m putting down as a transition back into uni life. This week has been much better. 

I was one down on my targets for conditioning stuff and for leg Physio. But I set the bar high to make me do as much as I could.  

Only one day bike commuting as I had to do some training for a placement so didn’t go in. On the plus side I felt a bit braver on the bike and didn’t get run over again so that’s a bonus. 

Went for a fell run yesterday which was great on a beautiful day.

Planned day out climbing on fri got weathered off so went to the wall (Kendal). Onsighted up to 7a on the big wall and fell off the last move of a 7c onsight. Its never seen 7c in its life, probs 7b at most but lots of positives, especially mentally. Also did a fair few 6b-c onsighting. 

I did 2 Dave Mac 10 min workouts and don’t seem to have injured myself.

Starting placement this week so not sure how it’s going to pan out. 

Targets:

leg physio x7 

mobility/stretching/core x7

bike commute x2 hopefully as not certain of the feasibility of this on placement. 

Climb - possibly after coaching on wed. Dave Mac as often as poss - x3? 

 hms 07 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM. Taper week this week so was trying for shorter punchy sessions.

M - cycle commute. Yoga cancelled as instructor was ill. Doubtless should have done some self motivated (p)rehab, but slobbed about & watched telly instead.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes. 10 in pairs, pulling hard but stopping well short of knackered.
W - cycle commute.
T - Early session at TCA. Sort of hour of power lite ie tried hard on the new 6a-6b+ set. Precisely one of which is remotely close to 6a. Got 3.
F - Back to TCA. Steady warmup which included ticking 3 more purples. 4x4s. Lunch then 4 lattice iterations with rest:climb.
S - 2 miles urban walking.
S - New Quarry. Couple of 6bs to warm up, then 3 goes on a 7a. Came a whisker away from getting it - it's short and bouldery with very body-position dependant moves (and gruesome polish)

As ever felt a tad miffed at the new TCA set. Then was ear-wigging whilst a muscular guy was saying how he'd done half of them. He then struggled/failed to do 2 tech ones which I had felt were quite reasonable. Left with the feeling that the TCA setting style generally is geared towards powerful blokes not petite females, so I shouldn't be too down-hearted.

 Tyler 07 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks once again Andy. Same old, same old this week in as much as work got in the way of what little climbing I can do and then my parents were here for the weekend. Starting to stress about how the weekends are all filling up with stuff to do until Christmas, I know it will leave me grumpy (more so than usual), I need to consider postponing a loft conversion until next year.

T: House of pain, did very little but managed a new PB (possibly, record keeping might be wrong) on the max time DH (51 secs).

W: Nothing

T: Full BM session followed by 1.5 sets of FoC (middle rungs: minute on: 1.5 minute off x4)

F & S: Ate out both days

S: Ate out then full BM session except did pretty miserably on the slopers (probably oozing chip fat through my fingers).

Might try to get out this weekend for the first time since I twisted my ankle

OP AJM 07 Oct 2018
In reply to hms:

> As ever felt a tad miffed at the new TCA set. Then was ear-wigging whilst a muscular guy was saying how he'd done half of them. He then struggled/failed to do 2 tech ones which I had felt were quite reasonable. Left with the feeling that the TCA setting style generally is geared towards powerful blokes not petite females, so I shouldn't be too down-hearted.

Training should be training and performance should be performance. If what you want from your indoor climbing is to perform, then I can see why that setting style might be frustrating. But as training, it sounds like just the thing you need - you're already very good at techy vert tick-tacking on miserable crimps .You don't need to spend more time doing it or need to feel flattered by its grading!

In reply to AJM:

Thanks  

Mon: managed cave pervert stand start first go today. Still had a bit of juice left in the tank at the end too. Had a play on bashers left too to remind myself of the moves. 8.5km trail run by head torch later on. 

Tues: mega work day, really busy and forgot to eat dinner, home after 9pm.

Wed: back to the Tor but really tired and hungry so couldn't link more than 3 moves together on anything!

Thurs: rest

Fri: Tor session, made some good links into bashers left from the cave prob stand start. 

Sat: 6km pram run 

Sun: hard 35km Mountain bike around Mirfield, Nice to explore somewhere new. 

OP AJM 07 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Usual sort of a week for me - ticking over, no training bar the wall session, although my back is pretty worked after today. 

Tuesday - wall .good start, got some good problems done and a lap on the black traverse, but then it just got so busy! Crowds standing under everything, all a bit silly.

Sunday - a day out with the Dorset Bolt Fund. Tackling the far left end of the accessible stuff at Battleship (plus a bit beyond) - basically left of Monoculture. Bit of a faff to start as more people than expected vs the amount of kit that had been brought along. But I drilled 3 lines (others glued and chopped) which was good plus usual lugging and stake bashing and so on. Jumaring rig worked better this time and harness a lot more comfortable. Looked at some cool climbing on the way past.

As ever, please donate to your local bolt fund as it's expensive work. 

Probably just the wall on Tuesday this week, then trip starts by the weekend...

 mattrm 07 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 2lbs (7lbs loss)

M - S - Horribly ill.

The rapid weightloss was mainly due to illness / dehydration / loosing my whole stomach.  I won't give any more details than that.  However it's left me feeling pretty weak and grim.  I'll get back into some gentle exercise next week.  Obviously it's totally clobbered the whole 10 minute work out thing.  I might do that towards the end of the week.  We'll see.

 AlanLittle 07 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Two weeks to Kaly. 

STG: Kalymnos: redpoint 7b, onsight 7a
MTG:
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: Shoulders & elbows. I have been neglecting these for the last few weeks in favour of first being ill, then getting climbing mileage in for Kaly. Am starting to pay the price in tweaks & twinges, so back on the wagon.
T: 
W: Public holiday (German Reunification Day). Grey, drizzly morning when it would have been very easy to just give up and go the the wall, but my partner was made of sterner stuff and insisted on driving out to a south facing crag, the Rote Wand near Regensburg, where his faith was rewarded with a sunny afternoon of perfect temperatures. Scruffy little locals' crag for the most part, but there were two routes, 6b & 6c, that were absolute gems. Worthwhile session.

T: Oktoberfest with work.
F: Erm, "resting"?

S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Ten rounds of PE circuits followed by half an hour shoulders, core etc in the weights room. Tentatively tried some pullup variations for the first time since I went down with impingement & biceps tendonitis last year. Nothing exploded. Good.
S: Wall, Freimann. A dozen routes, admittedly mostly vert crimping not steep jug hauling. Naughty!

 Cyan 07 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. Had a mad few weeks and have been AWOL again.

Been to Pembroke, Font, Lundy and the Women's Climbing Symposium. All fab and have been very lucky with the weather.

Pembroke was a day-trip and a triumph of keenness over common sense. Good to get a couple of routes in before Lundy, which maybe wasn't the best place to choose to get back into trad. However it was a clear lesson on what I've been missing by concentrating so much on sport. Spent a lot of time outside my comfort zone and had some excitement but no epics. Did some great routes. Gear placement got significantly faster over the week. For the first two days I basically only placed cams.

Font glorious but having trouble with my knee again - I either need to heel hook less or strengthen my legs I think.

Highlight of WCS was the comp climbing workshop with Petra Klingler. Awesome fun, learnt a crazy amount in a very short space of time. And actually did some of the Parkour style problems that I usually pretend I cant see. 

Smith Rock end of this week!!

 

 Ally Smith 08 Oct 2018
In reply to Cyan:

> Font glorious but having trouble with my knee again - I either need to heel hook less or strengthen my legs I think.

Been there before - one of the reasons i started lifting - I've had fewer problems since, though some heelhook intensive routes (e.g. Aboriginal Sin) still leave my hamstring/knee sore, so not the complete solution.

> Highlight of WCS was the comp climbing workshop with Petra Klingler. Awesome fun, learnt a crazy amount in a very short space of time. And actually did some of the Parkour style problems that I usually pretend I cant see. 

I pretend I can't see these problems either; I'm guessing hms has a full on allergic reaction to them??!!??

What's the magic answer?

 Ally Smith 08 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy, for this week, and all your previous efforts - have a great trip to the US of A.

Week 39

M – Tor bouldering. Cold breeze warming up. Burnt through wearing downie. 1st RP effort pinged off final move – analysis by Jonathon pointed out a missed intermediate. 2nd go – smashed Cave Pervert (Stand start) (f7C+), with a bit to spare. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bogn0X9h3Ka/ Worked full version and a couple of other projects - L elbow feeling a bit grumpy. 

T – Fingerboarding. Max hangs with Dan-psyche for company. 3-finger drag 10s x4 @ +21kg. 3-finger half crimp. Fail at 8s with +8kg (slouched into drag). 10s x2 @ +6kg. 3x10DL@55kg. Various attempts at muscle-ups on the rings, including some pitiful attempts at sets of dips (managed 6 on my best effort!) I made tofu curry; Dan made tart tatin: we all felt glutinous.

W – More of the garage torture chamber. 5 rotations of 10x55kg DL, 10 flys & BFR 30rep pre-exhaustion, then 4x10s RA lifts at 32kg. A few sets 10x Dumbell OHP 15kg/10x reverse flys, then v-sit & side-plank core routines.

T – Gorgeous anterior deltoid DOMS. Nuttin’ but stretchin’ 

F – Rest. TV stretching.

S – Tor again. Warmed up, repeating Perverse Reverse with relative ease. Powered out on swing move of Cave Pervert (sit) after faffing with getting fingers in first tight slot. Very brief play on Keen roof mit einem uber starken Deutsche mann – intriguing beta… Then 3 tie ins on Mecca, which went from desperate, to merely hard, to pretty good links. Mat fell off the last move twice, so don’t think he’s going to be a partner for long!?! https://www.instagram.com/p/BooHcDRhpGd/ 

S – Devil’s Gorge. Feeling a bit beat up after Tor the day before (writing down everything I did makes me realise how high volume session it was!) Back on the headwall project.

1, Bolt-to-bolt.

2, RP to sideways move off crimp despite not doing 7c bit that well, RP to crimp despite being tired and not doing 7c bit well.

3, Re-worked rest (Send pad), plotted new clipping strategy and tweaked final move beta (heel instead of toe and 2 mini intermediates to take power out of big rockover).

Worthwhile session on headwall project (which is one of the Devilish goals) but slightly self-hijacked. Felt very jittery (too much morning coffee?) and couldn’t get heart rate back down in either of the rests. I think this was part psychological and part fatigue.

Hopefully back one evening this week?

 hms 08 Oct 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

what parkour style problems - I see none of them, full on blinkers, mate!

 Tom Green 08 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Hi All. Thanks AJM -sterling work on the stats.

Yep -love the easy angle and all those positive little edges, although I have never had footpump before! On Comes the Dervish my arms felt fine but my feet were exhausted -need some Blancos!

Regarding a new alpine goal, I think I'm going to save cash for a couple of trips in early 2019 and go for a 'UK Alpine' goal...

Last Week:

A good week, with all goals hit. Supposedly the last of my Transition weeks, but I'm going to add on a couple more due to the previous couple of weeks being useless!

M: Trad at World's End. Highlight was Intensity (HVS 5b) -pleasing because I had the discipline to get on a route that is my exact antistyle, then further pleasing because I got up it, no problems!

T: Shoulder prehab. Serious core DOMS from Intensity.

W: Core and General Strength. Some progressions. Sore back from decline press-ups.

T: Hill run. 50min Z1. 6.3km at 7:43 avg. 430m ascent.

F: Road run. 60min Z1. 11.5km at 5:13 avg. Flat. Indoor bouldering -pretty unstructured but fun session doing all but 1 of the V1-2 problems plus 2 V3s and 1 V4.

S: Rest.

S: Core and General Strength (with deadlifts using new bar -braap, braap!) Trail run. 35min Z1. 5.1 km at 6:50 avg. Slightly hilly, slightly techy.

Next Week:

150 min Z1.

2 Core and General Strength sessions.

2 Climbing Sessions

STG/Q4:

Jaz (D8)

UK 'Alpine' Route -something like Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) or Ben Nevis ridge enchainment

MTG/Q1:

The Ginat (ED1 5)

Scottish 7

Nice ski tour -TBC!

LTG/Q2:

TBC -struggling to see past winter focus at the moment!

 

 

 

 

 Dandan 08 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, I'm taking the helm as of next week, is that right?

> Dandan82 - sounds like an ace trip. Shame you didn’t click with secret garden, but big congrats on Aegialis and on some interesting thinking/learning about motivations...

Cheers, I think Secret Garden needs at least one more visit, I heard later on that some of the harder stuff around 7c is particularly excellent (and you'd imagine slightly less polished) so I won't write it off completely yet. I think we just had a poor pick of routes and a low energy day which made a rubbish combination.
I'm really pleased with the progress I made on understanding my motivations for climbing, i'm still going to have grade related goals to hit, but they now feel like progress markers rather than goals in themselves, you know? For example I still want to climb 8a in a day, but I feel like I can just climb what I enjoy and then at some point that milestone will fall, without me having to chase after it.

This week was a gentle transition back into training mode, things were feeling good and I had a particularly good session Thursday, but then a swollen knuckle has grounded me for a few days, hopefully it's nothing major.

M: Nowt

T: Indoor boulder; 8 on 5 off x3, then a pockets fingerboard warmup (getting ready for Margalef mode) and 1 hour 'Boulder Play' session. This is an open session of trying hard stuff, making up silly moves, that sort of thing, which was a lot of fun. What I realised though is that I pretty much do this session whenever I go to the boulder wall on top of any training sessions! I'm sure i'm not alone in this, you have a planned session to do but your mates are trying some interesting problem or you do a few routes to warm up and get drawn into some tricky problem, so you end up putting in a fair bit of effort before you even get to the planned session. Maybe I need to be more strict with this and stop doing so much extra curricular stuff to keep the training quality high, I'll see what Lattice say.

W: nowt

T: Indoor Routes; I used the crux of my project route to do reps of 14 moves, 4 reps with 2.5 min rest, 3 sets. I was really pleased with this session, after the first set I was thinking I would need to move to a considerably easier set of moves, but I decided to persevere and managed to do all sets on the crux moves with very little failure. Another example of how I often just don't try hard enough, the ability is there, I just need to try really hard.
Unfortunately while putting away dishes that evening I felt a soreness in one knuckle, I'd not noticed it earlier but I can only presume it was climbing related. It got quite sore and swollen, I can bear down straight on it no problem but any lateral movement or twisting of the finger is quite sore. The swelling has gone down in the 3 days since and it feels much better so i'm hoping it's only a minor issue.

F: Did belay duty for Mrs Dandan on Portland while resting the finger, although I did take the opportunity to tick a couple of the easy routes on the top50 Portland ticklist, Fallen Slab Arête (3a) really is fantastic, andFallen Slab (3a) goes with no hands

S-S: Nothing, I forgot to do a core session which I will squeeze in this week.

So i'm not doing any climbing for this week at least to rest the knuckle, i'll do all the S+C stuff and might even try a fingerboard as the movement is so controlled. I think the knuckle will be ok in a few days.


666 Goals:
Horny Lil' Devil/Mark of the Beast/Camino a la Perdicion
+66kg weighted pullup +60kg
666 one-arm pullups 0/666
666 'good' handstands; 3/666
66 routes at 7a and above including 6 routes at 7c+ and above. 0/66 0/6

I'm going to change the handstand challenge to 666 'good' handstands. I'm sick of counting to 30 but if I get up and balance in control, then either hold it, or try different leg positions, or try shifting weight to one side for 1 hand progression, or try a handstand pushup, then I'll count that as a 'good' handstand.

New STG MTG LTG goals to come soon!

OP AJM 08 Oct 2018
In reply to hms:

I either grumble that they're just not relevant for real climbing, or pretend that it's clearly just an incomplete problem that the setter started (but forgot to add the non volume holds to) and therefore pointless trying.

 AlanLittle 08 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

I agree that grumbling about "parkour" is fun & generally to be encouraged, but ...

  1. anybody who genuinely & seriously thinks dynoing sideways can have no possible relevance to real climbing needs to re-watch the dream sequence from Stone Monkey every night before bed until further notice
  2. The odd half hour of holdless slopy volume shuffling at the end of a session , after your fingers are too tired for proper bouldering, can be quite fun, and can't possibly do your footwork, body position awarenesss etc. any harm
 Cyan 08 Oct 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

> What's the magic answer?

Be like bamboo.

OP AJM 08 Oct 2018
In reply to Cyan:

Fast growing?

 hms 08 Oct 2018
In reply to Cyan:

what, keep popping up shoots all over the lawn?! Not totally convinced of the relevance...

 the sheep 08 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

> The sheep - oh no! Gutted. How long a recovery?

Hopefully not too long. Took it easy the last week and did nothing. Going forward it will be a gentle introduction back to the pool and see how we go from there.

 

 guy127917 08 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Cadarese is excellent, you should definitely make a trip! I'd like to go back and try some harder stuff at some point. I put a bit about it and a couple of photos on here https://aguyclimbing.com/2018/10/08/cadarese/

 

Not a great week, but I'm on the up now, trying to get more a routine sorted.

Monday: Was at my parents planning a trail run but forgot my shoes

Tuesday: Nothing

Wednesday: An uninspiring bouldering session

Thursday: Short run then got really drunk

Friday: Had a hangover

Saturday: Run in the morning, then went to twickenham for Saints vs Tigers... more beer.

Sunday: Tennis match and really fun lead session.

 

OP AJM 08 Oct 2018
In reply to Dandan:

>  is that right?

yes please.....

 alexm198 08 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for doing the stats AJM. Nothing much to report this week. Rainy weekend meant no climbing, but managed not to miss any training sessions. A ramped-down recovery week now before heading into the base period of training.

Last Week (Transition Wk.7/8):

M: 60 min treadmill Z1. Bit of soreness on the right tibia so going to ramp down the running with the exception of off-road stuff (which is much more comfortable but limited in London). Replacing it with stairmaster.

T: General strength w/core routine warmup.

W: 45min Z2 stairmaster.

T: General strength w/core routine warmup.

F: 60min Z1 stairmaster.

S: Rest

S: Rest

This Week:

80min Z1 

2 general strength sessions w/core routine warmup (lower intensity)

30min Z2

Some gentle climbing this weekend if possible. 

Goals: (will add more/refine as they become clearer)

STG (end of October)

  • 2x long alpine routes, TD or above, 800m+
  • 3x E2 O/S

MTG (~end of January, maybe a little later)

  • 2x Scottish VII O/S
  • 3x WI6 O/S
  • 1x M8 O/S

LTG (~end of 2019)

  • New route in the Cordillera Blanca
  • Bugaboos trip
  • Caucasus trip

666

  • 1938 Route
  • Versant Satanique
 AlanLittle 08 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

So does this 666 malarkey have to be *in* week 666 - middle of winterish - or *by* week 666?

Cos if it's *in* week 666 then I'm definitely not doing the Herbst Teufel in Oberreintal. Whereas if it's *by* then I might make it up there some time next summer. Alternatively I could repeat Devil Wall (VIII-) in the Frankenjura as another means of avoiding Devil's Crack (VII)

Post edited at 21:54
OP AJM 08 Oct 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

I’m not doing Mark of the Beast at Christmas! By 666 will do just fine

 Powderpuff 09 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Hey AJM,

The finger is still slowly recovering.... I'm taking it steady, I promise!.

Tuesday: climbed 10 problems up to v5 @ the wall. Shoulder exercises too.

Friday: walked/ran to the wall. Climbed 12 problems up to v4 then ran back home.

 

 

 

 Ardo 10 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

A warm glow and barely a care in the world, so, sciatica aside, a very relaxed week. Back improved last week, comparatively drug free, so tried it at the wall and then got out on real rock. Steady week and just pleased to be climbing outdoor.

•Mo: 8.3m General walking
•Tu: 8.7m General walking
•We: 7.7m General walking. 16 problems, (v4), 30m ARC, (2*15m).
•Th: 8.7m General walking
•Fr: 7.0m General walking, 5 trad routes
•Sa: 7.7m General walking
•Su: 7.8m General walking. Boulder & a couple of solo routes.

Focusing on sciatica improvement, booking El Chorro for November, then going to look at re-setting targets for Scottish winter and 2019.
 

 Pineappledog 11 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Well I am not spoilt for choice, its about 20-30mins further than most crags in the Peak district so it makes a nice change sometimes!

Last week was a funny one:

M: Worked some hard routes at the boulder gym

T: Rest

W: Went to wall, did a few warm up routes the jumped on another route, one I had flashed when it went up and took two falls on left hand jugs where my hand had just given given way. Came down and had pain in wrist so iced and ibuprofen'd within a few hours pain was gone seemed fine again.

T: Went to boulder gym to access any damage, seemed fine but stuck to easier stuff and just put volume in, about 34-40 problems V2-4~

F: Went to boulder gym, warmed up and then tried a few harder problems, both wrists started to hurt a bit so called it for the day

S: Rest

S: Went to wall we don't go to often, did a few warm up routes then jumped on some of the harder stuff (They only have a few odd routes past 6c and upward there so wasn't spoilt for choice) wrists seemed fine.

At first I was unsure if something was wrong with my wrist but once I got pain in both assumed it was a product of lacking in antagonistic training, planning to start doing some wrist curls this week to try and build a bit of strength where its lacking there. 

 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy ( and Dan in advance)!

Lots of work. No climbing but ran WCS. Good to meet Cyan finally! 

 Bones [:B 14 Oct 2018
In reply to AJM:

Hey Andy,

Back from an awesome trip to Australia. Got rained off the goal multipitch but had a couple of superb days sport climbing in the Blue Mountains. I was really inspired by Laura's climbing and it was very chilled. Did a 5(4) pitch climb called Troposphere on Tibrogargen and a couple of indoor days roped-climbing and bouldering. I was pretty happy with my climbing and leading and excited to get on some more stuff before the winter really kicks in. Hoping to get away to Spain in the next few months, maybe Mallorca or mainland but no solid plans yet. Aiming to get more 7a's plus on lead. Any suggestions? I have been to Costa Blanca couple of times, had a brief trip to Aosta but didn't get much done and a weekend in Mallorca which was great. 

Short-term goals for the next few weeks are:
- to run 4 times a week
- have a minimum of 4 climbing sessions per week
- I hurt my back whilst I was away, so need to work on recovery for that too. Probably just means doing a lot more stretching.
- paying attention to what I eat and cutting out the unnecessary extras

Medium-term goals include 20 pull-ups and a front-lever

Long-term goals are:
- the Matterhorn - saving for a few trips next year to get a little more confident
- big wall - I will continue to work on my trad climbing for this but am really happy with my progression


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