/ FitClub 551

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guy127917 - on 08 Oct 2017
Late post today, sometimes you just can't tear yourself away from the crag eh.

Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
biscuit: get fingerboard up (/), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (1/2)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
AJM: Force Majeure (x) another fb7 (/) Do some DWS (/) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x) 
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
Ally Smith: 2 of this: (x) (/)
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -12kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x) 
hms: wye valley challenge (x) magma1 (x) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (/) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
planetmarshall: The file (x) Banana Finger (x) Crescent Arete (x) The Unconquerables (x)
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Average three shoulder rehab sessions per week (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (x) 5km at 5min/km (/)
Jen Jones: Lead 4 of my DNFs (x) complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session (x) boulder a V5 at the climbing wall (x)

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:

Last week’s thread can be found here:

AJM: You’ve reminded me to make my periodic bolt fund donation. Great to hear you’re getting involved.
Si dH: Smashing the shoulder work, good effort.
AlanLittle: Thanks for the expedition update. Sorry to hear it didn’t go to plan, could there be a round two in more summer conditions?
mrchewy: Inspiring post! Sorry to hear about the new injuries, but it seems like you are rolling with the punches like a champion.
Bobling: Welcome back! The body is pretty good at regulating weight- you’re probably more likely to put on a little if you jump right back in with a big volume of training. Same goes for injuries- I’m sure rest will help your achilles strengthen (connective tissue takes about 6 months to renew) but ease back in. Your goals make it sound like you have a pretty good approach.
Ally Smith: Were the holidays snaps all crag shots? If so- they may not have been that confused!
hms: you seem to do a really good job of using time available and getting it done
Dandan: I’ll be interested to see what BW exercises you can work on- I’ve found quite a lot of progressions aggravate my elbow, muscle ups being the worst offender. I’m sure there is plenty of core work you can do though, can’t have too much core!?
the sheep: Do you have a feel for how your running injury is recovering?
Tom Green: That’s an interesting note- short term goals should ideally support not compete with the medium/long term ones. It’s hard though when you have goals like alpine climbing which require a big range of skills and experience.
The Fasting: Great stuff! Good job taking the time to post a video, I think it’s a really good way to self analyse and also get feedback from others here.
annak: That’s a shame about your trip. There’s not too long to go but do you want to set a different 555 goal for some new motivation?
biscuit: Congratulations on getting second place, and it’s great to hear your diet is going well in a way which feels sustainable!
Just Tintin: I won’t ask about secret project X, although I’m fascinated. If you are feeling overcommitted, just remember the goals are there to help you focus- don’t be afraid to put some on hold if you need to.
Jen Jones: I feel sure a v5 is within your reach
guy127917: Come on!

TheFasting on 08 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

M: Ran to the gym (5.5 km each way I think), did squats (80 kg x 8), bench (70 kg x 8), deadlift (90 kg x 8). Then ran back. Nice way to sneak in some cardio and save on car costs.

T: Was going to trad climb but all the trad crags dry off too slowly so we went sport climbing instead. Onsighted my first n5- (F5a) Kjærlighetsstigen (n5-), and then my second Emilstigen (n5-), and then my foot popped on an n5 (F5b) and I went flying. But at least the fear of falling doesn't seem to phase me anymore. Of course the slab was wet, but that's become my specialty anyway.

W: Too busy with school

T: Tried to go trad climbing again. Rain the day before as usual. Went to a crag where apparently it doesn't dry that quickly. Jumped on a F3b route that was the easiest there, but partner had to bail when the top traversing bit was a blank mossy slab that was now a river. Spent most of the session with him lowering off a neighboring sport route, then climbing back up the rope to thread through the anchor and getting his bail biner.

F: Too busy with school.

S: Ran to the bouldering area (3 km each way). Then sent some easy boulders (Blåbær (f3), Saft suse (f5)) and failed everything from f6A and up.
Tom Green on 08 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Hi all. Thanks guy.

A slightly better week this week, although another seven days passed without getting outside.
I think at this time of year there will naturally be a bit of disparity between STGs and MTGs due to the winter climbing season starting. I guess most training has some crossover between my different goals, but some of the more specific stuff that I need to start now for the MTGs (e.g. weighted hill work to build up toward heavy load carrying) eats time that could be working toward STGs. Maybe I need to be smarter in what I do to try and get more value out of every session. Any ideas gratefully received!

STGs/555 goals:
E1 on grit (x)
E1 on limestone (x)
F6A in font (x -off to font in two weeks)
5km in 25min (/)
Average 3 times per week shoulder work (x -so far, so good)

M: rest
T: climbing indoor at Boardroom. Lead up to 6b, climbing to failure and clocking up some fall practice. Active resting using easy routes on autobelay.
W: Trail run (hilly with failing headtorch!) 7km at 6:10 pace.
T: rest
F: climbing indoor at Boardroom. V2-3 short circuit. Autobelay laps up to 6b with active resting on easy routes. 3x20 situps. 3x30sec side planks.
S: shoulder rehab (bands). Trail run (flat) 10km at 5:09 pace -TICKED MEDIUM TERM GOAL of sub 55min 10k! Late night raving to celebrate!
S: shoulder rehab (bands)

E2 on grit
E2 on limestone
F6c on limestone
10km at 5:30 pace (/)
A 'Nose' day (880m climbed in a day)
M6 onsight; M7 worked.
Post edited at 22:51
Tyler - on 08 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:
OK, time for a reboot as I keep missing the cut off for FC each week. Since I last posted I've not really kept up with 555 goals (as suspected my elbow was too sore for pull-ups and I've been slack on the press ups.....). Only other things to have happened since my last post is I clawed my way up Metal Guru (7c) before Kilnsey season ended and also bought a year's pass for the new Bouder UK in Preston.

M: BUK trying a variant on the black 7b+ circuit. Pretty sure it'd be 7c outdoors even with the extra holds. 3 x FO campusing. I'm taking long rest between sets and still not managing 60 seconds on the middle (they're actually quite big) rungs.
T: BUK same as yesterday.
W: Travelled to Cheltenham
T: Work reunion, tactically decided not to start drinking until the end of the evening to avoid hangover but ended up still drinking at 2am
F: Shite drive back from Newbury with hangover, can't believe I used too do this every week. Intended to go to wall but that didn't happen.
S: Postponed Malham until Sun due to weather so went to BUK. Got close to the easy black variant on my third RP. Deliberately skipped foot on campusing.
S: Partner for Malham bailed due to flu, so back to BUK. Worse than yesterday on black variant. Only one set of FO campusing.
Post edited at 22:37
mattrm - on 08 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st

M - Rest
T - 30 push ups
W - S - Nowt
S - 15 routes at Rec

Deeply impressed that Si can do the amount he's doing. Serious effort points there. There's a vague chance I'll hit the push-ups goal, I'm at 144 at the mo. Got down the local wall again, which was nice. Big queue to get in, so I got in late and then talked too much, so only managed 15 routes.

mrchewy - on 08 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Good to hear you've been out and about enjoying the autumnal air - cheers for this.

Not so sure I feel inspiring, by Thursday I was wracked with pain and grumbling and moaning about being old or rather not wanting to be old if this was how it feels... today I'm back on track.

Mon - Rested after the walk the day before, leg was a bit ouchy and had a great pizza night at friends.
Tue - Drove back from Swizzy. Much knee pain from being inactive.
Wed - Started sorting all my stuff now it's all in the UK.
Thu - Working up a ladder again. Bad day for my back and the shoulder impingement really let rip (work not climbing related) in the afternoon. Added to the leg, not the best of days but my new sit pad for Font came!
Fri - Got in late, crashed out straight away.
Sat - Work. Finished the last outside of the year thankfully and got home at 2pm, so rested the body for Sunday.
Sun - Rubicon. Got to the high spot on the project but the sharp pain in the shoulder hit, the arm goes weak and it's over. Didn't try again. Did some rehab off the tree with a band and decided it's boulder season.

Tough week mentally but the knee has surpassed expectations and whilst the meniscus is a bit off, the ACL and medial are coming along nicely. I had ibruprofen before Rubicon today and the knee was okay - so three weeks to Bleau should be enough time to sort the impingement.
Now I have my weights and bands back, it should be easier to focus on rehab.

The trip to Switzerland focused the head and settled any doubts I had about not spending the winter in Spain - bouldering and conditioning instead, then come spring lots of easy mileage in preparation for Swiss granite in the summer.

This week's goal - rehab!
BHAG and next summer's - Salbit West Ridge

guy127917 - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Monday: 8km run
Good wave session- around 30 attempts, making progress on v7 pink
Aerocap work 6 on 6 off x 4

Tuesday: 6 km run just to blow off the cobwebs.

Wednesday Stayed way to late at work, only able to do fingerboard repeaters (12 sets 7s/3s x 6 various holds). Bad diet.

Thursday Rest, bad diet.

Friday 13 pitches at Blacknor South, most O/S around 4 to 6c, plus RP of Sacred Angel (7a) which I had a couple of goes on in the spring

Saturday: 7 routes O/S (5-6b) at Cheyne Wears (weather was a bit lame but turned out to be an alright day in the end)

Sunday: Got all the way down to reptile smile then realised I forgot my harness so had to run to the van and back before climbing- was nice and warm. A couple of 6a routes O/S to get my head in gear and then got on Appleturnoverload 7a+. Was surprised to finding all the moves comfortable, bolt to bolt was no problem. First RP attempt I fell on the easyish but mega dusty first third (was rushing I think). Second RP attempt I got super pumped trying to get the clip above the crux overhang. This was a bit of beta I didn’t really dial/think about. I think I worked out a solid method using a heel hook. Should go next time.

Main progress this week was committing to working with a nutritionist for the next few months. This has been on my todo list for a long time, and I update saying ‘bad diet’ pretty much every week. The main issues are weight management (though I’m hardly obese), and getting through the training week with high energy and good recovery. I’m prepared to take time out of training if necessary to sort this out and build some better habits, but hopefully it won’t come to that.

FitClub 555-wise, project 7a+ is going well now that I’ve found a route at the grade which is definitely within reach at current level of conditioning. Big confidence booster- even if weather prevents me getting this one this season, I’m sure I can find something similar in Spain in November.
V6 indoor seems hard but possible. I thought I would try and project some specific routes but I’ve actually been putting time on the wave (ungraded 45 deg+ board) rather than the graded problems at the Castle. It’s hard to motivate myself to get on the wave so won’t make any adjustments while it’s going well. I did a max hangs session last week and hope to get one in the coming week, but I’m not sure if I can expect to progress to my goal hang without more commitment (unlikely pre-spain).

I haven’t done much handstand work recently- getting back into structured training means I have less time/energy to mess about at the wall for this. It shouldn’t take long each time though so I should try harder.

AlanLittle - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Would/will certainly visit the area again. The second crag we went on, Urlkopf, was fantastic. Wouldn't necessarily say the first half of Wassersymphonie was so great that I absolutely must get on it again, but wouldn't rule it out either.

STG (20th Oct to 5th Nov): 555 goal: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos .
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Bike one hour.
T: Rainy public holiday (German reunification day). Boulderwelt. Wasn't sure whether to do a weekly token strength maintenance session on the moonboard, or stick to pure power endurance work until Kaly. Compromised by working a vertical, fingery 7a circuit.
Half an hour elbow & shoulder prehab
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Eight routes up to onsight level; not feeling much by way of effects from yesterday's more intense session. Good.
T: rest
F: Wall, Boulderwelt. Hoping to make some progress on Tuesday's 7a circuit project, but it quickly became apparent that today was a weak day. Probably not fully recovered from Tues & Weds - which is fine going into the last week of hard training - and the wall was crowded & humid. Ran laps on a couple of steep, juggy 6b's instead. Probably more relevant.
S: rest
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits - a few easy warm-ups then 9 laps ~6b with short rests, mostly steep & juggy. have definitely reach a point of cumulative fatigue where I can feel power dropping off as my endurance improves; probably time to start the pre-Kaly taper soon.
Half an hour shoulder & elbow prehab in the weights room.

FC555 goal: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos.

1. Book flight. DONE
2. Ask Fit Club for recommendations for achievable 7b's. DONE
3. Buy guidebook DONE
4. Train like mad, focus on power endurance NEARLY DONE
5. Falling practice on steep ground MORE OR LESS. Haven't done much voluntary jumping off, but have taken real falls every time i've had a rope on for the last month. Good enough.
6. Hopefully get some decent rock mileage & a tick or two in the 7a-ish range before travelling AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN. Weather, illness & family commitments have eaten all the available weekends. Try not to worry about this too much.
7. Cease training like mad a week or so beforehand. SOON
8. Go
9. Crush
Si dH - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Matt - thanks too. I've been taking one day holiday per week since paternity leave ended and that has definitely helped a lot to find time for some extra climbing as well as looking after Sol so Ruth could have a break. However it's getting too busy at work to carry that on after next week I think, so things may get harder.

- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)

January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4

April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse

M: rest
T: shoulder work and Fingerboard max hangs. Shoulder stuff was 4 x 5 low rows, reverse flies and IYTs plus a couple of 10 second prone flies. Max hangs were the first decent one arm hangs since my finger injury - I managed up to -11kg for 7-8 seconds on the middle (20mm) bm2000 edge with each arm half crimping, 5 reps. Big rests but importantly no pain.
W: shoulder work as Tuesday
T: rest
F: stole two hours at Eastwood in the morning while family slept in (I had a day off.) Not a bad session, I felt stronger than the previous one and managed it in overlapping halves, but still quite a way from fit enough to do it at the moment. Some discomfort in finger on the most intense rh move, but not much.
S: rest
S: Burbage North (other plans were prevented by wet rock after the previous night's rain.) Repeated some stuff I've done before, and did some moves on Blind Date and (more) Boyager. Want to go back for these in primo conditions, especially Boyager, although it needs lots of pads, the landing is terrible.

A good week in retrospect. Not much achieved outside but nice to get two sessions out. Shoulder work going reasonably well. Eastwood and Boyager both very shouldery so they definitely count as a good workout! Most importantly though, I'm definitely seeing some improvement in my finger. Tuesday's hang session was great. I wanted to keep going as I was so excited to not have pulley pain, but had to force myself to stop. At my current bodyweight, I was hanging 65 kg plus clothes off each arm, which is only 3 kg off my historical (5 second) max. Suggests I should be in good shape if I can shift the 5kg I want to.
Diet also went well most of the week but I had a couple of lapses over the weekend.


Edit: forgot to say, no time for outside this coming week as we are visiting family with the little one for a 3-day weekend (he is going to see his great grandma who is 98 years older than him!) So focus this week will just be; two shoulder sessions today/tomorrow then hopefully a wall session on Thursday, and don't overeat.
Post edited at 07:22
AJM - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to Si dH:

> I've been taking one day holiday per week since paternity leave ended and that has definitely helped a lot to find time for some extra climbing

This +1. Having a 2_1_2_2 (on_off_on_off) week pattern left me with so much more energy in the early weeks.

I tapered this week, although that was somewhat unintentional as given my lackadaisical approach to training I hadn't really intended to take my foot any further off the gas pedal.

I was wiped early week. I managed an excellent foot on campus session Wednesday-ish doing a lattice-style decay test - further improvements across the piece.
If (big if) the proportional increase in time carried straight across to Lattice moves it would leave me on just shy of 70 which is good progress (49 in June and 44 I think on my last assessment 2 years ago about 6 weeks before Kalymnos 2015) and nearly at "8b moves". I managed a longer time on the foc than the lattice when I did them both in June, but not so different that they look to be fundamentally different difficulty exercises (114 Vs 140 I think). Be nice to get a chance to do a test some point before I go into winter boulder mode but not sure I'll get a chance.

I had a really good day with M on Friday, a fitting (near) close to my parental leave - 9km up and down and around the Purbeck hills on perfect weather (the exercise bit) followed by swimming class.

Saturday it was grey and I didn't get out. Sunday I went walking to/from a nice pub lunch with the in-laws - no time to get out climbing first bit a lovely day out. Reinvigorated my interest in cycling round there too.

Some sort of last training this week then off to Kaly on Saturday (Kos Saturday, Kaly Sunday, probably chill and settle M in Sunday afternoon then start climbing Monday).
guy127917 - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to AJM:

I don't have a baby to deal with, but going down to 4 days a week from the start of this year has been awesome. For me it's easily worth the decreased pay for the training/climbing time, and less work time means less stress to dissipate over the weekend. The extra day makes the 300 mile round trip to Doret seem totally worth it (if it doesnt rain).
mrchewy - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I obviously need a new 555 goal now, I'll have a think today. Not sure I'll get outside again before Font or even to a wall which leaves not so many options!
biscuit - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy.

An OK week. I didn't get on the scales enough to get any kind of average fatness score but when I did they were in the 13%'s. So progress is still happening, just slowed down a bit. The way I am eating is definitely working for me but I have slipped a bit again this week. Maybe a sign I need to look at it again to make sure it's sustainable.

Trying to remember what I did this week?

Mon ? I must have done something.
Tue: 25 miles bike. Fingerboard standard 7/3 repeaters 2 min rest. 8 sets. Better than nothing.
Wed: Finally did my circuit challenge at The Depot. 40 move 6b circuit twice, 5 mins rest, repeat 8 times. It's quite tiring but I certainly feel like I've got a decent fitness base out of it. Trip getting closer now so time to start increasing the intensity.
Thur: 25 miles bike
Fri: nothing? Drinking in the eve and a late night
Sat: Despite not drinking that much felt rough all day at the BLCC's
Sun: STILL feel rough. BUK. Warm up on boulders. Bit rubbish. No oomph. Some really good problems there to go back for. Went on the 55 and 40 degree woodies properly for the first time. Made some progress (i.e. more than one move before falling off) and felt I started to get a feel for them with some beta help/encouragement from The Fox. Had a very quick go on sections of the 7b+ circuit. If i'm fresh and not feeling rough I really think this will go. Need to get on it.

Still feeling rough today so I've either got the longest hangover in the world or i'm a bit poorly.

This week:

3 x uni commutes 75miles
After coaching circuits/autobelays at MCC tonight
After coaching circuits at Depot Wed. Repeats of 7a.
Fingerboard x2
Revise a lot.
hms - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. An OK week:

M - cycle commute. Yoga - it's back! Different instructor but same general idea
T - cycle commute. UCR circuit bits. I suspect this is getting into aerocap rather than ancap, certainy for the first bloc of 4: got to hold 33, 31, 29, 27 on the first 4 tries. Second block of 4 is on a slightly harder circuit and the numbers are a lot smaller, but it isn't so good to use and has a total stopper move at 27 anyway.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes, dozen mainly in pairs. Good go at a new 7b which starts easy and finishes on tiny crimps. Got to 4 moves from the top, but at least one of them is a really powerful reach.
T - travel to parents, bit of DIY for them, short brisk walk (to go and locate a decent cup of coffee!)
F - travel back from parents. Same as Thurs - gardening plus coffee foray.
S - TCA, long session. Ticked another blue, D1 and I then had a totally frustrating time on the greens, supposedly the next set up with a lot of overlap - we only got 4 ticks between the pair of us, all afternoon. Demoralising.
S - Armistice. D1 made good progress on her 7b, I got cross at the E6 cos it's hard and I still haven't worked out how to do the crux.

This week is going to be extremely light as I'm on a course in London from today right through to Friday. Will try to sneak in a quick FB session this morning.
AJM - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: You’ve reminded me to make my periodic bolt fund donation. Great to hear you’re getting involved.

I figured if I was going to get involved I'd like to be able to get up on the ropes as well as doing the ground work and rigging logistics.

Thanks for donating. Doing the days recently has made me realise what a fantastically expensive effort it's going to be - I can forsee a jumbo-sized equivalent of the Horseshoe Heroes thing might ultimately be needed because there's so many things to replace!
Dandan82 - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Dandan: I’ll be interested to see what BW exercises you can work on- I’ve found quite a lot of progressions aggravate my elbow, muscle ups being the worst offender. I’m sure there is plenty of core work you can do though, can’t have too much core!

Thanks Guy, I can imagine muscle-ups would be a real elbow killer, I was hoping the floor based 'push' exercises might be more friendly - planche and manna progressions and maybe even handstands but I never really got motivated enough to do them this week.

Up and down progress with the elbow, it would seem to improve greatly from one day to the next and then worsen again another day. I think I was still climbing a bit too hard for it, I need to really cut down and let it get settled before I start to push again.

M: Theraband Antagonists
Lower Body Flexibility

T: Indoor Boulder; Circuit combo, 25 moves followed by onsight of medium boulder followed by 15 moves. 2/3 sets at a reasonable level.
Core: Did this with my mate Rich which meant we both pushed a bit harder, I was aching for 2 days!

W: Theraband Antagonists

T: Indoor Boulder; 2 on 1 off x5, difficulty felt ok but it still got me breathing so I don't think I was far off the full difficulty level I would use uninjured, should have been on easier ground I reckon.

F: Lower body flexibility

S: Indoor Routes; I thought the elbow was doing well but I think I went a bit hard on the eccentric exercises the previous day as even steep 6a+ felt uncomfortable so I stopped climbing.

S: Lower body flexibility
Had a bit of a breakthrough with the eccentric exercises in terms of my technique. I think I was doing the reps too fast and fighting against the movement too hard, probably causing unnecessary aggravation.
I only noticed after doing the exercise with a long sleeved jumper on, I saw that even after getting to the end of the motion and pausing, the fabric of the jumper on my forearm was still moving because the muscles were still changing shape. I slowed down the motion and tried to 'resist' less and let the arm relax, and the exercise felt very different. I'm presuming the whole point of these eccentrics is to help re align the muscle/tendon fibres, strengthening them without the strain of contraction, so it seems to make sense to be loading them with as much weight as possible but in as relaxed and smooth a motion as possible, or am I just talking hooey?

Last Weeks STG:
Do all non climbing sessions on the plan this week - TICK
Read up and do self-assessment from the Supple Leopard book - turns out there isnt an assessment section, i'm sure I read half the intro a few months back and it mentioned an assessment. Anyway, tried a few 'smashes' basically painful foam roller massages, i'll work through a bunch of them and see what causes white hot searing agony, then repeat.

All non-climbing sessions on the plan
Try out some bodyweight exercises, see what doesn't hurt the elbow.
In reply to mattrm:

15 routes in a session is a great effort! Can't remember the last time I got over 10! ;)
AlanLittle - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

Same here - at least not roped & alternating with a partner. Circuits or autobelay laps sure, if they're not too hard.
planetmarshall on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Skipped last week due to a major work incursion. Better this week but suffered from a bit of a loss of motivation at the weekend. Missed a trail run.

Mon - Bouldering at Depot Manchester. Core. 4x 6a circuit. 1:2 work/rest ratio
Tue - Gym. Core. 3x2 pullups @+20kg. Ring Dips, Deadlifts, Squats.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Rest
Fri - Fingerboard. Max Hangs 5x 3 finger open hand (+4kg). 5x3 half crimp (-14kg)
Sat - Bouldering at Depot Manchester. Core. 4x 6a circuit. 1:2 work/rest ratio
Sun - Trad at Stanage Popular. BAW's Crawl (HVS 5a) (Lead/OS).


Next week's goals -
* 2 Trail runs
* 2 bouldering circuits - increase to at least 1 rep at 6a+
* 1 water jug carry
* 1 gym strength session
* 2 fingerboard sessions. Increase weight by 2kg
* 2 core sessions
* 3 leads at HVS or above


OMM End October
Red Rocks in November

British Trad Routes:

The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone


Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)


The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)

Scottish Winter 2017/18

Kami-kaze (VI 7)
Central Buttress (VI 7)
Shang-High (VII 7)
Central Grooves (VII 7)
Sundance (VIII 8)


The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
The American Direct (ED1)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.
Si dH - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> Had a bit of a breakthrough with the eccentric exercises in terms of my technique. I think I was doing the reps too fast and fighting against the movement too hard, probably causing unnecessary aggravation.

> I only noticed after doing the exercise with a long sleeved jumper on, I saw that even after getting to the end of the motion and pausing, the fabric of the jumper on my forearm was still moving because the muscles were still changing shape. I slowed down the motion and tried to 'resist' less and let the arm relax, and the exercise felt very different. I'm presuming the whole point of these eccentrics is to help re align the muscle/tendon fibres, strengthening them without the strain of contraction, so it seems to make sense to be loading them with as much weight as possible but in as relaxed and smooth a motion as possible, or am I just talking hooey?

This depends on the exercise Dan, although I think slow is definitely good. Some (eg elbow eccentrics) are designed to target the tendon but not the muscle as much, and so you want to load in extension, but not in contraction at all. Others (eg most shoulder theraband exercises) are designed to target minor supporting muscles, so it's really important not to overdo the load because you end up just using the overdeveloped muscles to compensate: exactly what you are trying to avoid.

I am no physio and everyone is different, but the biggest thing that strikes me about you is to take more rest. I always tried to take a completely clear 24 hrs after a proper eccentrics session so thatcthe muscles/tendons could recover and then grow. Going bouldering the next day seems a bad idea.
mattrm - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:
Weeeeellllll, I say 'routes', but they're 8m high on a auto-belay. But I guess routes at Boulders are only 12m so it's not that bad. It'd probably be better to say, 120m of 4+. I used to be able to do 30-40 routes in a session. Also it's just endless repeats. There's 5 main lines. Good for endurance, which is what I'm trying to 'train' at the moment. So if I do the get the chance to climb outdoors, I can at least second a 30-40m HS/VS ok.

Si/AJM - I'd not thought about doing that. I do get one work from home day a week which helps. I look after him all evening long till about midnight, so I'm generally stuffed by the time the weekend comes up, so all I want to do is sleep, catch-up on house stuff and do some gentle family strolls. Hopefully he'll start settling better soon. But we have been saying that for a while now. Thankfully he does seem to sleep from 2300 to 0500 now, it's just the rest of the time that's an issue. My distinct lack of motivation doesn't help either.
Post edited at 21:39
Dandan82 - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Sounds like good advice to me.
I'm torn on my approach to this issue due to recently seeing a lot of mentions of rest being less effective than previously thought for injury recovery, but I think i'm taking it too literally. I guess what is meant is that long-term rest isn't beneficial, i.e if you don't climb for 3 months and your golfers elbow goes away, it probably hasn't fixed it, when you go back to climbing, the golfers elbow will probably come back.
But a days rest before throwing myself at some boulders would probably be a smart idea! I'm going to skip my intended session today so that will be 4 full days rest with only eccentrics by the time I climb (gently) again, see how that goes.
Si dH - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Dandan82:
Cool, good luck (sounds like you've already done it more for the last few days anyway.)
I think the 'rest being less effective' thing is because it is important to ensure your body is getting the signals it needs to tell it to adapt, ie to tell it to repair/strengthen the things you need it to. If you do no rehab or climbing at all for weeks, it loses these signals. And I definitely 100% agree with this, it's been borne out by my own experience with every climbing injury I've had. But it does also need the time in which to do that repair and strengthening. I don't profess to be an expert on the right balance to strike, and to be fair your body is presumably pretty good at recovering fast as you seem to train a lot when uninjured.
Post edited at 07:38
Bones [:B - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I rested a lot last week as I was at my parents for a back appointment - only for two days but I have to explain all the rests somehow (embarrassed face):

Mon: Rest after back appointment
Tues: Rest
Weds: Rest - work meetings etc.
Thurs: 3.2 miles run
Friday - climbing Portland - still having real trouble being consistent getting my lead head on when I go outside. Loving top roping the harder stuff though! Felt totally solid sending a 7a clean that I previously dogged.
Saturday - climbing Portland - great day with two red point leads, one of which is a 6b previously dogged route so that is another ticked off for my 555 goals. Red-pointing seems to be the way to go right now. Peace of mind on a top-rope once or twice, happy happy climbing, then on lead.
Sunday - climbing Portland - another beautiful day in the sunshine. Worked through some things for leading and working on anything I need to focus on. See below.

Lead 4 of my DNFs or dogged climbs from the past year on Portland - I have completed 3 now! It is possible that this won't be complete before November but hopefully will squeeze in another weekend.
Complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session - should probably give this a go eh, it's on the planner this week.
Boulder a V5 at the climbing wall - will need to fit in two sessions a week to get this done and need to work hard but I reckon it'll go. Thanks for the confidence boost Guy

555 goals has been a real push to get stuff done and focus on short term wins, really enjoying the challenge and motivation it provides.

Leading goals:
FALL PRACTISE which I have been avoiding, I'm not sure how scared I am of actually falling but this definitely seems to be a blocker - worrying about where the last bolt was and the next bolt is etc. An article on climbing The Salathe, El Cap put this in perspective a bit...climbing too far up 60ft of unprotected, flaring chimney "10 minutes later I found myself 40 feet up, no gear, smooth walls, smearing my feet against the two walls, slowly inching my way up" - so will work on falling 1 metre onto a solid bolt on a climb with massive foot and hand holds, especially considering a big wall is on the cards for 2018.

MILEAGE leading many, many routes at the wall to enjoy it and get used how it feels. I am finding that I am having to get used to leading very slowly every single day to calm my nerves and remind my brain it's ok so hopefully lots of routes will make it feel normal and not like I have to trick my mind into doing things.

RED POINTING this is also lots of fun for me and really gets my mind settled knowing that I have already done all the moves. Also feels very satisfying.
Ally Smith on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks for the stats once again Guy. Not much training from me, just ticking over with outdoor lantern sessions, though these are being fairly productive.

Week 41
M - Tor again. Felt strong warming up. Did Cave Problem sit start (f7C) first go – even managing a mid-crux de-smeg of my hand. Had a couple of good goes on Rumbleweed, 7C+. Tried Killerweed – got both halves done independently.
T - Shoulder prehab, core and antagonists. 4sets 20rep 40kg deadlifts too. Excellent rotator cuff workout polishing a filthy brass plant pot.
W - Rushin’ round like a blue arse fly, so no exercise apart from running to the garage and back (2miles) which exacerbated my butt #DOMS
T - More working and rushin’ – house viewings after work...
F - Bonus Tor session; didn’t feel strong as Monday. Warmed up, then dogged Weedkiller. On 5th go, finally made the move at the lip work and topped out on (unlikely) FA of Basher's Problem Right-Hand (f7A+)/Weedkiller (7c+), which might just make f8a? Was too powered down to make an impression on any bouldering objectives.
S - Nothing – travelling to Surrey.
S - My brothers’ wedding. Much less intense dancing than last wedding, but drank too much as there was a free bar.
hokkyokusei - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I skipped again last week, but didn't manage to do anything anyway. I drank some dodgy water from a stream on my circuit of the Ilkley Skyline a week last Sunday and 48 hours later my world exploded into stomach cramps, vomiting and copies sh!ting, leaving me as weak as a baby.

m - 2hrs of stretches, drills, plyo, core & circuits
t - 5k run
w - rest
t - 15k run
f - rest
s - rest
s - 16k run

Budapest Marathon on Sunday. Don't feel ready. Not looking forward to it at all. Had been hoping for sub 4hrs, but I now feel that's not realistic at all. I'll just be happy to get round, I think.

biscuit - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to biscuit:

I've remembered what I did on Monday. I had a routes session with a climbing partner I've not seen for ages at West View. Same setting style there - easy routes = big holds and small gaps, medium routes = big holds with big gaps an hard routes small holds with big gaps. Only climbed a handful of routes up to 6c (we were doing a lot of catching up) but was able to maintain a conversation up all of them and thy felt refreshingly OK.

I also did a 4 mile run with the dog on Wednesday.
the sheep - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> the sheep: Do you have a feel for how your running injury is recovering?

Cheers Guy, recovery seems to be going ok and im ventured out for a little run last week. All in all a much better week with more activity

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, met the wife for a nice gentle 5k run then jumped in the pool for the usual 1k swim. Pre run didnt change my pace which was nice

Wednesday 30km cycle home

Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim

Friday, 15km ride to work, 1km lunchtime swim and 30 km ride home

Saturday, swim training with the kids. Eldest daughter challenged me to a 100m sprint race and beat me, going to have to sprint train now as well as distance ;-)

snoop6060 - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Apologies, skipped last week's posting due to not having anything remotely positive to add apart from the fact I may have broke my PB for drinking Alfa/Fix/Mythos in Kalymnos.

Wrist injury was healing up when I left for Kalymnos, started to climb a bit harder after a few days. Did a few routes up to 7b but something just wasn't right. Felt like my arms had been replaced with rusty Mechano. . Just felt laboured and uncoordinated. Went to Sikati Cave for the first time (been kalymnos 5 times, cannot believe I have never been) and just could not help myself. Did 5 routes upto 7b all onsight then next day could not move my arm. End of trip. The General was quietly pleased that we could sunbathe some more I suspect. I still dragged her the crag though, even just to look at them .

Was supposed to have flown to Chullia this Monday, that got cancelled as well . Luckily my mate had people to climb with that are there too.

Felt like some sort of tendon/nerve issue possibly triggered from falling over and hurting my wrist. Weirdly over the last year I have been waking up with really bad pins and needles in that arm despite the fact I sleep on the other arm almost always. Wondering if this is related.

Nevertheless, I am booked for red rocks at the end of October, so need to be fit for that so I had to rest. I can go Chullia any time. Had 7 days full rest now so gonna go the wall later and see if I can do an easy bouldering circuit. Anything to keep me moving.

Might need some new goals!
planetmarshall on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

Sure the content is great but finding the Android App totally unuseable I'm afraid. Just hangs on the "Downloading" screen. Anyway - Fitclub not the place for bug reports!
Si dH - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to snoop6060:

If you are getting pins and needles, read up on carpal tunnel syndrome. It's one possible cause.
I have had a bit of this I think, although only mildly. Strengthening your extensor tendons (eg with a rice bucket, elastic bands or Powerfingers) is supposed to help.
snoop6060 - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Well carpal tunnel syndrome or some other RSI type issue would not surprise me. Been sat at a computer for pretty much 15 years. Read about the rice bucket thing whilst away. Gonna get down the Chinese supermarket for a big bag.
Bobling - on 14 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I don't think I need to worry about jumping back in with a big volume of training! Any is good. I managed to get back to the pool and do at home exercises (though only once) this week.

Tues - Ran to train station from work
Weds - Exercises. P28, S33. Bloody hell that lot takes me 45 minutes! No wonder I was having trouble doing them all and coping with the extension.
Thurs - Pool - 1.5, 40 mins.

Weight: 72.35 (+ 0.15)
Injury report: Achilles ached after run to station, don't pelt down hill from cold in wrong shoes with a big bag you knob!

Exercises: Lat pull-over, inch worm, couch stretches. 2 min press-ups, 2 min each leg leg stands with rotations, 2 mins sit ups, leg lifts on side 2 set 12, 1min front plank, 30 sec each side plank, 1 min front plank, 30 sec each side plank. 3 sets 12 heel drops, combination of both legs at once and each leg singly.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to April 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Get up a 6c at the wall. Get running again. Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall & Petros at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock.

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks for your patience Guy. Not much progress this week as family stuff meant busy week and London weekend.

M-F - coaching and conditioning at home. General wall avoidance but getting better on the lattice test edge.
S- S - The Reach - lots of routes to 7a and boulders to V5. Also went to a park with my nephew and found I could do monkey bars for the first time since I was 10.

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