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 guy127917 26 Nov 2017

Morning all! A lot of good training chat in the thread last week- it’s really good to see ideas being thrown around and discussed. The highlight for me were these sport climbing gems from thebigfriendlymoose:

>My usual RP mentality is a stoical resignation to just keeping turning up, aware that failure is almost certain, but also knowing that I have little better to do before dinner time. 

> My laws of RPing are:
(1) Just. Keep.Turning Up.
(2) Try hard as hard as you can, whenever you can.
(3) It never gets easier, the grades just get bigger.



A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=674528

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here:  https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=674528


Jen: Your update last week sounded very different to normal, good to hear.
AJM: Thanks for the video- hard to see where the top of the problem is but sounds like you are nearly there!
guy127917: listen to your body
Si dH: Well if you got a 7B tick every week that would just mean you're not trying hard enough problems!
hms: Congrats on the tick- great that you’re working your weaknesses.
mrchewy: Well done on the slab tick and pushing yourself. Readin your post reminded me of this https://andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/d.f.y.u
Tyler: Any highlights from kendall mountain festival?W
Alan Little: I kind of expected that might happen! Are you feeling any change in the joint issues?
Dandan82: Your ultrasound experience sounds really interesting- it’s pretty cool to be able to confirm the extent of the injury!
Ally Smith: Those routes don’t have a lot of ticks!
Just Tintin: I’d recommend Appleturnoverload (7a+) if you’re back in that area
the sheep: That must have been one of your higher mileage running weeks this year? All feeling good?
MauraLorrissey: Do you find all those squats/lunges ok with your knee?
Climbthatpitch: Looks like a good week, nice variety of conditioning/endurance work.
Tom Green: Focus on process is a great idea. You could just call them “even shorter term goals” than your end of year ones. You can keep going as granular as you like- weekly, daily or even hourly- sometimes it makes sense to use hourly goals if you’re trying to build or break a habit!
mattrm: Sounds like you need a new small physical challenge like your 555 pushups?
TheFasting: Sounds like you are making some solid progress!
planetmarshall: Whats your impression of the uphill athlete training plans?


AWOL: biscuit, hokkyokusei
Post edited at 08:26
 Bones [:B 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> Jen: Your update last week sounded very different to normal, good to hear.

:s oh dear and good, I think!


Well this week was brilliant too! Each week I mean to write my post as I go so it is fresh in my mind and each Sunday I start from scratch. I just went to my UKC logbook to remind myself of the 1000's of climbs I did in the last 5 days and found 10 but boy were they tough! ;p

Mon: - Back for day 2 of Gandia to try the projs 7a+ and 7a again. Happily leading 6a+ as a warmup which may not sound like much but it’s a big leap from what I was happy on leading earlier in the year. Progress.
- Led L’os to put the quickdraws in. Imagined I would get part way and want to clipstick the rest but I felt very happy on lead albeit with a pull on a quickdraw past the nails roof section (that I believe is not possible) and lots of nice rests.
- Then jumped on my project Don Diego 7a+. Got the crux sequence plus the top All the moves are there, just need to do it without a gazillion rests! Today has confirmed that in order to do these routes (which I really, really want to do) I need to work on power, endurance and core strength. I have added this Don Diego as a project for the next trip.
- Also flashed Groceries, potentially. Meant to be a 7a, possibly took a turn to the wrong anchor. Banked this 'kidding myself moment' for if I didn't manage an actual 7a on lead which was my goal for this trip.

Tues: - Couldn’t resist third day at Gandia. Chose a nice ballsy 5+ layback to warm-up on in the coldest part of the crag and then decided to just top-rope it but actually it was really fun and made me feel much more confident about my lay backing skilz.
- OS lead 6b then back to DON DIEGO AGAIN! Similar to yesterday, got the crux again but got cold feet on the top bit so decided to come down with the mindset that I knew I could do it so why do it again ;p Then we had a bit of a disaster with the rope. Turns out that in order to pull through you have to undo the whole knot, not just part of the knot. So I led it again on the other end of the rope. Total blessing in disguise as I had to do the whole climb, including the top, without any excuses and I did (with rests) and I loved it. Goes to show, sometimes the best things happen when you mess up.
- Just before this I had decided we should do 4 more climbs so we jumped on a pumpy 6b and it totally finished me off for the day.

Weds: - rest

Thurs: - This was the best day yet. Back to Sella to have another go at everyone’s first 7a lead, La Cosa, hoping that it would also be mine. After putting the clips in I top-roped it clean with no problems, felt a trillion times smoother than last year. Got so close to the lead on the next go but couldn’t hold on by the next clip so took a fall in a screaming, tense little ball - like a boss. Found a much better way to do that bit. Had a few more goes but stopped short of the same bit even though I knew the moves.
So then I went up again, encouragement coming from the ground, me yelling “I CAAAAAN’T” but then I heard “you know you can do it, you will feel way better when you just make that next move". So I just thought, f-it, and I went for it and nailed it! 7a lead tick just as the sun was going down

Fri: - This was another good ’n. So today we went to Wildside again at Sella and my goal was to send Si te dicen que caí on top-rope clean. DNF’d it last year (2016) then tried last tues and got all the moves. Not sure what happened today, maybe wrecked from yesterday, maybe just a special day, but my climbing was hilarious, just lost it. All the moves were a struggle. Anyway, second go I managed the crux about two-thirds up grabbed for the jug and then just kept holding on, shaking and struggling to the top. It was like Frodo grabbing for Sam-wise in Mount Doom. Not sure I have ever tried so hard to hold on, it was like I was possessed but I knew I wouldn’t get another chance this year. So, ticked my top-rope, maybe lead next year?

Sat: home-bound rest day

Sun: - Off for a run. Ran - 4.58 miles; av pace 11.22/mi; av hr 173bpm; max hr 196 bpm - no real plan today, just wanted to get out there.
Plus 11 pull-ups in a row, new record!

Plan for this week is mainly rest with some running and a gym session and to create the framework of a training plan. Got a few things that I want to focus on for sport climbing as mentioned above and also some endurance training for sport, winter mountaineering and alpine.
Post edited at 12:42
OP guy127917 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:


Mon: - Day 2 at Gandia- gave L’Os a good go and fell off at the middle bulge after screwing up the semi-rest. Not sure it was correct in hindsight but I gave up on the route after this burn- just figured I was not fit enough to do the steep bottom section and then tackle the pump section above. Jen and I both o/s’d what we thought was Groceries (7a) - Rockfax certainly has the incorrect line or the incorrect grade (it was maybe 6a…!). Then got on A mano (7a) which went in 3 goes. Not sure this really deserves the grade alongside the others at the crag! (Felt more like a Portland 7a… 2 semi-hard moves)

Tues: Went back to Gandia to properly try Don Diego on Tylers recommendation. I’d been on it for one go the week before, but was already wasted. The moves felt a lot easier today! There is no way I am fit enough to make it through the bottom section to get to the crux fresh enough to pull it off though- the crux crimps are pretty close to my limit after resting. Valentet de València (6b) and Pepestroika (6b) were both excellent fun.

Weds: Much needed rest day. The sun at Gandia really took it out of me the last two days.

Thursday: I was still feeling wasted so took another rest day and just belayed Jen

Friday: Finally RP’d Si te dicen que caí (7a) second go of the day. Was expecting to do this on one of the first days to the trip as a confidence builder! Tried to O/S Reina Madre (6c+) but fell on the crux, not too bothered about it.

Saturday: Travel
Sunday: Rest. Did a set of 15 pull-ups which is a new PR. Weighed in at 85kg which is annoying because I’ve not weighed this much in abbot 5 years and thought I was eating really well through the trip

So to summarise the trip:
* From a ticks point of view I didn’t do so well- 2 7a’s and 5 6bs
* This is the first trip where I’ve come away feeling I was strong enough for the routes I tried and failed at
* I learned what hard steep climbing is about (fitness not finger strength)
* It takes me ages to recover after getting pumped (aerobic fitness?), and I can’t recover well at all whilst hanging.
* I learned sometimes I need 2 rest days in a row, and easier multipitch routes in the sun do not constitute rest days. I really felt the fatigue build up over days and had a big impact on physical and mental ability.
* Weight gain aside, nutrition went really well- good even energy levels throughout crag days.
* If I’m going to really RP a route near my limit (ie not a 1-2 day thing) I need to work on not getting bummed out.
* 2 weeks is a long time to spend in Benidorm


This week I’m just going to get organised for the next training phase, probably won’t climb but hope get a couple of runs in. I ordered one of these journals https://bestself.co/ to help plan my training/life. I have a pretty good idea what next year will look like now which will guide the training plan somewhat!

Jan/Feb: Scottish Winter trip
April: Provence sport trip (coached)
July: Cham Alpine trip
August/Sept: Kyrgyzstan alpine climbing expedition
November: Kalymnos?




 Tyler 26 Nov 2017
In reply to Jen-a-Thor:

Loving your work!
 Tyler 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> Rest. Did a set of 15 pull-ups which is a new PR
??
OP guy127917 26 Nov 2017
In reply to Tyler:

A rest other than that! I got drawn in by a little competition.
 AlanLittle 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Weighed in at 85kg which is annoying because I’ve not weighed this much in abbot 5 years and thought I was eating really well through the trip

Happened to be me too. Went to Kalymnos reasonably light & fit, and continued to feel reasonably trim through the first week, but by the second week the loukamades were definitely getting to me. Came home nearly a kilo heavier.
 AJM 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Thanks for the video- hard to see where the top of the problem is but sounds like you are nearly there!

Just out of shot, I guess. Feet on the lip slopers I fell off would leave hands on the top I think.

A good wall session earlier part of the week - some progress on a hard problem Dan casually campused, and managed to tame one of the comp problems with a couple of hand jams.

After that it went rapidly downhill and the week became more of a battle for survival. MiniAJM was running a temperature like a firebox by Wednesday, MrsAJM off work Thursday, ive been feeling generically rubbish,, so we have basically been struggling to hold it all together. Didn't go to London so have done a bit of admin over the weekend and I walked the infant down to Winspit and back (MrsAJM needed a break) today but other than that a write-off.

Fingers crossed this week picks up a bit. I might be out climbing Thursday morning if so. Weekend - at home, maybe a dbf day but depends how it all goes...
 Cyan 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hi all - signing back up in an attempt to refocus...
Current goals are mostly around bouldering a bit harder and finishing off some outstanding projects.
In fact next week's aims can be to put a written list of goals together and start using a training diary again.

Not a lot to report this week but as I say, I'll keep better track next week!
Mon-Fri: 2 decent boulder sessions and one crap one. I think.
Sat: Stronghold. Lots up to V3ish. What a great place
Sun: Went to the wall. Realised I didn't have my shoes so no actual climbing. Did walk around in the cold for quite a while though.
 mrchewy 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Good to hear you had a great time in Costa - it seemed pretty warm judging from my Facebook, which always makes things harder.

Struggled all week from the stomach bug, left us all feeling a bit wiped out. Shoulder is doing okay except high above head when it's useless and I also retweaked the ACL when I fell last week on the project. The medial is unhappy too from the fall, thus the knee keeps giving way.
However - Marius has a Tens machine and I've been nailing that, and all the physio too, everyday and feel like I'm doing better than treading water. It's painful tho, I sometimes wonder why I'm still here trying hard but sod the physio, this next week before I head home on Thu morn - I'm nailing 1200mg of ibruprofen before climbing and gonna enjoy myself.

BHAG - Salbit West Ridge
Even bigger BHAG - red circuit at Bois Rond. Hard beyond belief for the colour and even includes 7A.

Mon - In search of good conditions. Patouillat. Graffitied quarry, wet. Oncy Sur Ecole, overgrown brambles. Gorge aux Chats, bloody hunters! Drei Zinnen was damp, so I declare a rest day. Corne Bichce, okay a 7C slab was dry and Marius isn't far away but for me, this fits my wrist issues etc. I can hold the holds (painfully sharp) so it's on dreamtime problem list. Then Calvaire, also damp. Right knackered from all the walking.
Tue - Isatis (but up top of the hill) and 5hrs solid. Not the best friction. Tried only reds and off circuit stuff and lots of sit starts. 6A+ upwards but totally sandbagged as pointed towards a 6A and a traverse next to it - err, no. It was a 7A and a 7B+. On both of them for an hour at least. Big bad fall off a wet 6A, so wandered a bit lower and did a 5C second go and a 5A crack quickly too, despite eliminating the crack. Progress. Apart from being stuck on the block for 20min unable to get down safely.
Wed - Gorge Australia Chats. Ace place, really was. Rest day so did 6 yellows, of which no 25 was wonderful if you eliminated all the footholds on the right. Then Bois Rond in the arvo, scouting the place again and deciding it's got a brutal red circuit and the blues are tough for blues too.
Thu - Dame Joanne. Flashed an orange and then had a real green man moment (manic) on the arete next to red 2 - despite it being horrendous for my shoulder, undoable for the right wrist, I kept trying. I was battered. Tried some other stuff after but I was broken, so went to the bar for beer. Went walking, more beer. Good day.
Fri - Proper rest day! Didn't leave the gite. Physio, shower, shave etc and to Dame Joanne for dinner in the evening. The local sausage was horrific, smelt like - don't think I can't describe it and the nearest I've ever come to puking in a restaurant. I wanted to like it, everyone in the place seemed to enjoy it but it was grim.
Sat - Rain. Walked to Elefant, rock was dry so got the pads and wasn't quite there on a 6B slab. Couldn't push through the bad knee or pull with the shoulder, so a project still. Only had to pop 5 inches to the top but it was impossible with the knee. A few goes at an overhanging 6C to finish.
Sun - Isatis but don't know why, I don't like the main area, so no psyche. Lots of pain in the knee, so sacked it off. Went to Haute Plained, sorted my mates beta for a 7A, he ticked so he was happy and then to Bois Rond. Made progress on a nails blue 5B, actually managed to hit the sloper and then worked a slab 5C I struggle to get on but again, the knee stopped play.

Hard to explain how difficult this week has been, I've just kept going but carefully and every day I learn to climb better but only because I can't hold on or pull hard, which is frustrating but good. I'm far more aware of my body inside of whatever shape the holds decide to force me. It'd be nice to be 17 again with no injuries tho!

Three days left and a little rain forecast. Not ticked a 6 yet but that's mainly because I've gone for volume and purposefully for things that don't suit me or I've had to stop because of the body saying no. I feel completely tw*tted.

The elbows are good tho!
Post edited at 18:37
 AlanLittle 26 Nov 2017
In reply to mrchewy:

> The local sausage was horrific, smelt like - don't think I can't describe it and the nearest I've ever come to puking in a restaurant. I wanted to like it, everyone in the place seemed to enjoy it but it was grim.

Been there, eaten that. The locals at the next table tried to warn me off when they heard me asking the waitress about it. (Not in Font but not far away, on a bike touring holiday a bit further west in Mayenne)
1
 Si dH 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy.
You are right of vourse, but I'm lacking confidence at the moment due to knowing I'm overweight, so it would be nice to get something ticked each trip out

2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)

January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4

April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse

M: rest
T: max hang session and shoulder work. Can't remember the details now, but I think it was a decent session. Rh stronger than Lh.
W-F: nothing (too tired for planned fingerboarding on Thursday)
S: 2.5 hrs at the Climbing Unit. Fun session - nothing too hard but did a bunch of problems from the most recent comp.
S: nothing - heading to Vienna with work for tomorrow (can't complain too much.)

I think my finger is sufficiently improved now that I can update my goals a bit from next week. With that in mind, I've just ordered two things (1) a lattice edge so I can see how far I am off 8b, (2) a 5 week advanced finger atrength training programme from trainingbeta (I don't feel very advanced, but I meet their grade requirements, so figure I should pull my finger out rather than sticking to the intermediate one.)

If the edge arrives in time I'll test myself on it before next week. Then do the 5 week programme and retest. It's 3 sessions per week which will eat into outside time, but I'm not going that well outside anyway and can spend more weekend time with Sol.
Min goal is probably to get back to where I used to be on a bn2000 edge (67.5 kg I think? - I'm probably a couple of kg down currently.)
Stretch goal to hang whatever is required relative to bodyweight for 8a+ on the lattice edge.
Then it'll be January and time to start to lose weight for Font.
The plan also includes some core work. Some of the exercises are new to me so I might come asking for some advice on them.

Si
Post edited at 18:50
 Si dH 26 Nov 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

I once had bone marrow at dame jouanne - I thought it was liver (bad translation skills) and decided to be adventurous. Probably wouldn't bother with bone marrow again but it was edible. I've not had the sausage but I've heard somrone complain it was offal? - some of their food is good tho
 mrchewy 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Also - I have a copy of Climb Injury-Free by Dr Jared Vagy. It's brilliant, a whole step up from any other books of it's type. I found Dave Mac's pretty poor if I'm honest, it contained non of the climbing injuries I've had. Take collateral ligament injuries. Nothing in Dave Mac's book because I'm guessing he's never had one but in this book, 8 pages about diagnosis and rehad of what seems to me to be a fairly common climbing tweak.
Everything seems sound in terms of rehab (I've had over 300 hospital appointments in the last ten years), the illustrations are good and it's open in the way it allows you to choose your equipment for rehab and to some degree method too.

A seriously good buy.
 mrchewy 26 Nov 2017
Dame Johanne food was great - no complaints about the preparation of the menu, it was all good. I just didn't like the sausage, nor Cherky, he tried mine and we both burst out laughing. It was pretty minging in terms of perfume but Marius loved it and took mine home in a doggie bag!

 AlanLittle 26 Nov 2017
In reply to mrchewy:

Where did you get the book? I'm interested but shipping rates from the States are exorbitant.

I'm doing his shoulder impingement programme from the trainingbeta website & finding it very helpful, the taping in particular.
 Si dH 26 Nov 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

I think you might be able to get that on ebook from trainingbeta and they are currently doing 30% off - worth checking
 mrchewy 26 Nov 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

Amazon UK but it took a couple of hours to find it and I've just checked, out of stock and unavailable - I'd keep looking tho. I have his older book too but this is much better.
 mrchewy 26 Nov 2017
In reply to Si dH:

It's possible the offer on training beta is for the old book of his - I'd check. He considers his old book slightly out of date in terms of rehab knowledge.
 Bones [:B 26 Nov 2017
In reply to Tyler:

haha, thanks!
 Si dH 26 Nov 2017
In reply to mrchewy:

The offer is on all their ebooks for black friday weekend, but fair point.
 Powderpuff 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I would like to join FitClub as motivation, if you'll have me!

I'm all about the the bouldering and rarely tye in.

Don't expect the world's most exciting posts, life commitments limit my outside time but hopfully that will change in the future.

Last weeks training is easy to list as it
was limited to just one session on Tuesday.

Bouldered indoors climbing 2x v3-v5 problems and worked several v5-7
Also completed exercises consisting of
2 sets of 20 push ups
2 sets of 10 leg raises
2 sets of eccentric wrist curls
2 sets of sit ups

Also did theraband for my dickie shoulders.
 AlanLittle 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Alan Little: I kind of expected that might happen! Are you feeling any change in the joint issues?

The shoulder is still progressing nicely; the elbow was but doesn't like moonboarding, see below.


STG (a): Shoulder & elbow rehab exercises at least 3x per week. Yes
STG (b): regain the ability to do a left leg pistol. Ongoing
MTG: decide on a goal for Font at Easter & plan late spring Kalymnos trip
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: rest
T: Fingerboard repeaters. Easing my way back in: a little off my pre-Kaly peak but not too far. Good. Shoulder & elbow rehab & pistol progressions between fb sets.
W: Bike one hour.
Wall, Gilching. Warmed up in the normal bouldering room for 40 minutes, then made a couple of abortive attempts on the moonboard. Lessons learned: routes the day after fingerboarding works, bouldering doesn't. And I need to build some power back up via normal bouldering before I get back onto the moonboard.
T: Bike one hour.
Stair climbing at work. 3x40 stories, 27:10. Another 25 seconds week-on-week improvement, 5% total improvement in two weeks - this surely can't be physiological gains? Must be mostly just (re-)learning pacing for the event.
20 minutes shoulder & elbow work before bed. Yesterday's abortive moonboard attempts seem to have set my elbow back quite a bit, oops.
F: Bike one hour.
S: Wall routes. Easing back in with some onsight mileage up to around 6b+
S: Having learned from a friend that one of our local walls has installed a lattice board, I went & did a benchmark for Start Of Winter Training Campaign. Turns out to be distressingly harder then feet-on campusing with correspondingly distressing low numbers, but a benchmark is a benchmark: know where you are & be able to measure improvement.
24-18-20-13-14-12-11
So, new short-to-medium term goal: get to 30 moves, which according to this ukb thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27767.msg542694.html#msg54269... should be about right for 7b.
Rounded off with half and hour shoulder mobility & elbow rehab
 Tyler 26 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Shit, f*ck, bugger! I'm going to Siurana on Sunday and I've totally lost focus on my training, worse than that I seem to have focused instead on eating. I weigh about 1.5 metric f*ck tonnes and I've no power endurance never mind endurance.

M: Rest
T: BUK
W: Had the day off work so treated myself to a slightly earlier session at BUK, it's what holidays are for. I also bought a new phone so I can Instagram the shit out of all the cool routes I'm going to do next year.... Bumped into Nomics again, based on last weeks Fit club discussion we tried minute on, minute off FoC. Managed the first two reps but reps three and four were awful. Second set I'm not sure I managed the first rep but it's easier to keep track of so will continue with this instead of going all out from the off.
T: BUK, probably but as my life consists of sitting in an attic in my pyjamas or going to BUK it's hard to keep track of things. I'm only weeks away from putting a wig on a volley ball and calling it Wilson.
F: Rest
S: BUK inaugural comp. Great fun, great comp. I managed to coach my two partners for the day to winning their respective categories, unfortunately this was at the expense of my own chances of making the podium....
S: Low boredom threshold saw me back at BUK, managed to link red into green during the warm up and psych from strong Tanya and yesterday's champ saw me up two more V5s but I spent most f the time chatting (good to see biscuit down there) to the extent that I was 30 mins late for dinner with my wife where I proceeded to eat enough to sink a battleship. So much for the diet.
 MauraLorrissey 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

Yes the squats (lunges are okay) are a little sore on my knee, but I went to physio again this week and I have some resistance band exercises. Apparently my quads are working overtime and my hamstrings/glutes are not engaging when I squat etc. My physio has explained all this to my trainer so she is going to incorporate more glute exercises in the sessions going forward.

This week I have been moving and unpacking and a bit all over the place. I have been commuting to training and work on my bike which is great. I also haven’t slept very well and feel tired/unmotivated which is weird for me. But I’m going to put it down to the move and hopefully I’ll be back on game soon. I also ate crap and didn’t do any exercise all weekend

Anyway… my week.

Monday
Even more moving of all the big stuff.
Went for a short climb in the PM instead of unpacking. Tried the crack climb and failed miserably. Need crack work!

Tuesday
No training/climbing – just my ride to and from work.

Wednesday
AM training
4 sets
x 15 squats w/ 10kg kettlebell
x 10, 6, 5, 5 push ups
5 sets
x3 inch worms
x8 bench chest press (1x15kg, 1x 25kg, 3x27.5kg)
x8 dips (with resistance band)
- scarecrow arm exercises (1.5kg dumbbells)
- various Core exercises with 5kg plate

Thursday
AM Training
4 sets
x10 jump squats
x20 (each leg) mountain climbers
x10 burpess over pole
x30 wall balls (10kg ball)
x1 rope pull up driveway
wall sits (with 10kg ball) to max
- Various core exercises

PM physio

Friday
AM Training – Alpine Step
- carrying various kettlebells over boxes
- can’t remember the rest.

Saturday & Sunday
- ‘resting’/unpacking


 MauraLorrissey 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Jen-a-Thor:

This is epic!!! Well done, so proud of you

In reply to AJM:

> managed to tame one of the comp problems with a couple of hand jams

Is that the one on the right of the overhanging wall at the Project perchance?

 Dandan 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

It is indeed. I can't get close even if I treat it as a layback instead of a crack, i've no idea how Andy did it, probably used some of that 'technique' stuff i've heard so much about...
 Si dH 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Dandan:
Perhaps it's worth clarifying that he has always been crap at hand jamming, so unlikely. Rumour goes he even fell off the File?!?

He's just stronger than he usually lets on.
Post edited at 06:49
 AJM 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Si dH, Dandan82, Just Tintin:

> Perhaps it's worth clarifying that he has always been crap at hand jamming, so unlikely. Rumour goes he even fell off the File?!?

I love waking up to a good bit of mockery. Ive been to Orco since my student days and I'm at least familiar with the concepts!

> He's just stronger than he usually lets on.

Hah!

Tintin - yes, that one. I realised by the way that I owe you a book still!

Dan - the hard bit is getting to the crack, after that it's ok. Left hand to the laybacking edge, right hand compression from the arete, sort your feed out and furkle the left hand into the crack until it becomes a jam.
 Ally Smith 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy - Masterclass and Oyster have a reputation for skin damage, which might explain the lack of ticks - but it would be good to work my weaknesses and do some more techy/vert routes again. I was idling thinking that it would be cool to do one of these old school classics as my 100th >8a...

Week 48
M - Resting
T - Depot Manc – got warmed up, then guided tour of the 30/50degree boards disappeared and so continued on a random boulder session. The purple (V4-7) circuit seemed much milder than normal, the reds (V3-5) harder and like normal, I only got up a couple of the yellow (v7-8+) circuit.
W - rest – evening stretch/foam roller.
T - Was supposed to be a lantern session, but news reached me that the cave was FUBAR with seepage, so back to a very busy Depot. An-cap: Long boulders; struggled to find something that was hard enough, without having a stopper move. Need to work out some board problems. 4x 500m row @ 1m50s pace/8x 16kg kettlebell press as a break from climbing, then 2x10min LI aero-cap continuity on 6a+ to 6c+ ground.
F - Minor YYFY moment – first sub 77kg weigh-in since Sept. Prehab session #3 – went BIG! Warm-up, then 5 rounds barbell complex with 30kg; 10x sumo-deadlift, 10x squat, 8x OHP (hard – only got to 5 reps in last 2 rounds). 4 rounds; 15x reverse flys, 20x TRX low row, 20x TRX ab roll-outs, 15x TRX flys, 15x TRX press-ups, 15x wrist curls (40kg), 20x reverse wrist curls (10kg). Shoulders like jelly.
S - Nowt. Shopping and prepping house #1 for sale.
S - More shopping and prepping house #2 for sale. 1-arm hang session #1. BM2K central slot. 5s hang with assist: -10, -5, -3.75, -2.5kg both sides. BM2K-AA, -2.5kg RH (LH fail, and fail again at -3.75kg). 2-arm hangs; front-2/back-2: BW, +2.5, +5, +7.5kg. 7/3/6/3 repeaters; little slots x2, middle-2, x1, second set felt uncomfortable on LH so stopped. 2x100 crunchies, 2x30 leg raises, 2x50 incline press-up. Stretched out the lingering hamstring/glute DOMS.
 hms 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

thanks Guy. I had a deliberately quiet week - not a total rest week but no training as such, just tick-over:

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening, lots of flexibility stuff.
T - cycle commute. Redpoint in evening. Didn't feel in tune with anything and got more frustrated as the place got more busy. Ended with a dozen auto-belay routes - they are quite good if one totally ignores the grade cards which are a joke.
W - cycle commute. Pre/hab session in evening inc TRX, theraband, bit of gentle dumb-bells.
T - travelled to parents, gardening, DIY, brisk walk.
F - gardening, brisk walk, travelled home from parents.
S - 2 mile walk. Long TCA session with D1 trying the comp problems from Thurs evening. We ticked about 9 of the 25. It was a redpoint comp so they tend to set hard, plus the little stickers showing the bonus holds had all gone by Saturday. We both tried really hard so came away rather tired.
S - 2 mile walk.

On the train to/from parents I read quite a bit of 'With winning in mind' but I really can't cope with it in too big slices. Am also struggling a bit with some chapters as they are very orientated towards sports where being able to repeat the same thing in a totally identical way is important (golf, shooting etc), so have been rather skimming those chapters.
In reply to AJM:

Ha - I enjoyed that one (though it was at the very upper end of my jam size so probably where my loss of skin started last weekend). Super impressed with that wall - great problems and good cafe I did manage to hit my head on the wall on the orange where you limbo out of the corner onto the jug on the volume though... no worries on the book. Sounds like with family there you might be back and using it before I am!
 the sheep 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> the sheep: That must have been one of your higher mileage running weeks this year? All feeling good?

Cheers, yup, good week distance wise, making sure I put the effort into running at the mo to ensure I hit my year end target. Cycling and swimming will be fine to hit, just need to ensure I clock 20km or more each week for the running target. Then its onward and upwards for for 2018, got a half marathon in Feb so the goal there is for a sub 2 hour (carried on from the 555 challenge) and also go the dates for next years Mersea Island duathlons, first one in April and may well do the sprint tri as well
Looks like a brilliant course!

vimeo.com/243835940

Anyway before getting too carried away with next year last week went as follows;

Monday, nice 1km swim after the active weekend. Starting to re model my stroke after attending the coaching session with my daughter. Some good tips on getting better efficiancy

Tuesday, 2km lunchtime swim and a 5km evening run. Upping the the pace and averaged 5.21 per km which is quite reasonable for me.

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 16km ride home. Into a strong head wind all the way, absolute killer!

Thursday, zip, busy at work getting a funky new laser micro dissection system installed and running around after family in the evening

Friday, 2km lunchtime swim stroke improvement coming on, 30km ride home

Saturday, 8km morning run with a dusting of snow out on the trails, very enjoyable

Sunday, 7km run round wodland trails whilst the youngest two were at gymnastics
Post edited at 11:37
 Dandan 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Dandan82: Your ultrasound experience sounds really interesting- it’s pretty cool to be able to confirm the extent of the injury!

Cheers Guy,
Yes it is good in two ways, firstly it's good to definitively know exactly what the issue is, and secondly it was great that it matched Huffy's diagnosis completely, which gives me great confidence in his abilities.

Another decent week, net gain in elbow health through the week despite once again getting a bit giddy and pushing quite hard at the wall once or twice. I should accept that this level of over-reaching seems to be doing the trick as I have done it several times now with no detrimental effect but immediatley after a strong session the elbow can feel pretty worked, enough to concern me at the time.

M: Lock offs. May have done some stretching/calf massage but I have trouble remembering when I'm not writing it down day by day.

T: Indoor boulder; Got to have a bit of a climb with AJM which was a pleasant surprise. I was really chuffed to be able to do some powerful moves on a problem pretty comfortably when everyone else was struggling with it, although the move suited me perfectly as it was essentially a 1 arm lock-off on a reasonable crimp, it might as well have had my name stamped on it. Felt like I pushed a little hard (one arm lock-offs, duh) but again the elbow felt great the next day.

W: Handstands; managed my best ever handstand of nearly 20 seconds, then immediately followed it with my second-best ever handstand! Progress.

T: Indoor boulder; Brought another noob along but got a bit of climbing in myself too. I set a goal of completing one of the 5 nails comp problems on the darkside wall, after a bit of discussion with another climber, it turned out one of them was less hard than we had realised, so goal achieved but only though beta tweaks. Still, it's improvement of a type, reading routes is important stuff.
I did make considerable progress on another of the problems too, I was feeling pretty good about my progress on the second problem until Huffy arrived and casually flashed it... I've never seen him climb before but it turns out he is just as strong as everyone says he is!
I kept the session short and punchy and again the elbow was good the following day.

F: Spent a portion of the day reading through Overcoming Gravity 2nd Edition with the aim of putting together a 3 per week antagonist/bodyweight session to try to get some of these gymnastic skills nailed, namely handstand press, V-sit, front lever, back lever and strict ring muscle-up.
Unfortunately the book is very focussed on ensuring you create your own plan using the information in the book which requires several hundred pages of reading and note taking to achieve, there aren't really any sample plans to get started from so I spent a lot of time reading and ran out of much time for exercise.
What I did do though was ring dips and ring press-ups, holy cow both of these exercises are hard with strict form!
I can do sets of 8 weighted bar dips, I only managed 4 bodyweight ring dips.
I can also do 40+ floor press ups, I only managed 8 ring press ups!

S: Incredible DOMS from the ring work, right in at the shoulder joint on the front. The triceps felt ok but the pectoralis was absolutely destroyed, I put it down to the much longer ROM on the ring exercises versus floor/bar versions.
Indoor Routes; Off to chilly Calshot, I did a few routes up to 7a, warm ups are definitely feeling better than they had previously but climbing routes seems to tire the elbow quickly and then the pain builds so I try not to do too many.
I did a 6c that actually required a rest! It is very hard for the grade and I ticked it next go, but still, this is telling me that my endurance has taken a tumble. I'd like to pick it back up before Margalef in Jan but as I said, high volume seems to be the enemy at the moment so i'm not sure how I can train endurance with minimal hand moves?

S: Stretching; beat hell out of my calves again but this time I took advantage of their fragile state to try and encourage a bit of stretch immediately afterwards. It worked quite well, I definitely got closer to my toes, and my straddle was quite wide too.
I need to improve the straddle to achieve one of the gymnastic goals, the V-sit. It seems like the simplest thing, and probably is to some people, sit on the floor with your legs in a straddle, knees straight, then place your hands on the floor in front of your body, inside your legs, lean forward and lift your bum off the floor, then lift your heels up too.
Currently I can barely place my hands in front of me without toppling over backwards, the idea of putting any weight on them seems totally impossible! It's purely the flexibility I lack so i'm keen to make progress on this one.

Goals are still on a week by week rehab basis at the moment, i'll review my long term goals at the end of the year and then sort out a nice new set for next year.
In reply to guy127917:

Cool, thanks for the recommendation and will check it out next time - it will depend what nature of powerful the top is. I'm pretty powerful (in a Gimli way) but that is not always helpful on some terrain!

Lots of bouldering mileage this week largely due to moving about a lot. No rock

M: coaching and fingerboard
T: lead Brookes
W: in N Wales for BMC presentation - boulder at the PyB wall
T: in London for BMC presentation - boulder at the Edgware Rd wall
F: boulder volume Climbing Unit green circuit
S: boulder Wirksworth WBL
S: AM boulder Wirksworth WBL (total 175 for this round)
PM boulder Climbing Unit - a few blues onsight then worked some others

 Dandan 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I forgot to mention, i've been given moderator status for Margalef - Zona del Panta North and i'm busily updating to the latest guidebook, i'm about a third of the way through and have added nearly 100 routes already, the crag page is going to end up with something like 1300 routes on a single page when i'm done.

I'd like to request it is split up into separate pages to aid navigation but if it is split into a page per crag that would result in 80 separate pages, some with only 3 routes on!
Some crags have been grouped in the guidebook, those close together or sharing paths, but many other crags are not grouped, so again using those groups would result in 60+ pages or a load of made up group names that nobody understands.

The biggest divider is the valleys, it could be split into the two valleys at least, but even then, the Northern valley has 75% of the routes in it so would still have close to 1000 routes on a page.
My only idea is to split the North valley into crags North of the road and crags South of the road which roughly cuts it in half, then have the southern valley as a third page, leaving 4-500 routes per page.
Does that seem sensible to people or am I likely to confuse things? Should I leave it as one giant crag page?
 Ally Smith 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Dandan:

> Does that seem sensible to people or am I likely to confuse things? Should I leave it as one giant crag page?

Even the current page isn't that easy to navigate, so any split would be helpful.

Your suggestion sounds fine to me - just make sure that the title page to each valley/side of valley is really obvious.

p.s. do you know if anyone has stock of the new guide in the UK?

 Ally Smith 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Dandan:

> I need to improve the straddle to achieve one of the gymnastic goals, the V-sit. It seems like the simplest thing, and probably is to some people, sit on the floor with your legs in a straddle, knees straight, then place your hands on the floor in front of your body, inside your legs, lean forward and lift your bum off the floor, then lift your heels up too.

> Currently I can barely place my hands in front of me without toppling over backwards, the idea of putting any weight on them seems totally impossible! It's purely the flexibility I lack so i'm keen to make progress on this one.

Just had a pre-lunch furtle at this: weighting palms seemed very hard, but weighing fists seemed trivial - I think shoulder flexibility comes in to it rather than just hip/lower back?

 Dandan 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers for the input, glad i'm thinking along the same lines as someone.

> p.s. do you know if anyone has stock of the new guide in the UK?

I don't but I can pick one up in Jan for you? When are you heading out? It's freely available in the town from all sorts of places.
 Ally Smith 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks - tentative plan is end of Feb; probably easiest just to grab one in town and rely on Pod's guide for pre-trip psyche
 Dandan 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:
> Just had a pre-lunch furtle at this: weighting palms seemed very hard, but weighing fists seemed trivial - I think shoulder flexibility comes in to it rather than just hip/lower back?

I think it's all about relative levers and stuff yes, if you use fists, it's kind of equivalent to using palms but raised up on a 2 inch block in front of you, or equivalent to being able to lean further forwards so you can compress your shoulders 2 inches further, shifting weight forwards.
Still, my hats is off to you, I can't do it with fists either, I can udge my bum off the floor but heels remain firmly planted.

For me it's mostly the leg/hip flexibility so I thought I could try it sat on some kind of narrow block like an old P.E. bench or one of those reebok steps, so my legs can drop down a little either side, then I could lift my bodyweight up onto my hands (hopefully) and try 'lifting' my heels up to gain that compressing strength.

EDIT: I have a +0 ape index so you'd think that would help me with this exercise...
Post edited at 12:40
 Tom Green 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hi All. Thanks Guy.

Great thread last week. Thanks for all who contributed to the chat about mental toughness, particularly in relation to alpine training. This week's mental toughness is going to be trying not to get too frustrated whilst getting over the lurgy... Just when I was all psyched up for extra brutal hill sprints!

SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
PROCESS:
Run a minimum of 500m vertical per week
Average two core sessions per week
Average two shoulder prehab sessions per week
END GAME:
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on any rock type
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)
Improve Alpine Combine Test by 10% in each category.

MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Improve Alpine Combine Test by a further 10% in each category
(I've got rid of skiing the Haute Route as it just won't fit in the diary!)

LAST WEEK
M: Alpine Combine Test. 1000'feet vertical (800 15" box steps) in big boots, with 12kg sack in 38:27. 32 Dips in 60s. 37 Sit-ups in 60s. 14 Pull-ups in 60s. 23 Push-ups in 60s. 33 box jumps in 60s.
T: Shoulder Rehab (Bands)
W: Rest
T: Core, including new A-frame exercise with 6kg weight.
F: Climbing at UPT. A day of getting pumped weirdly quickly. Did VS. Fell off HVS. Fell off E1. Falls/jumps partly due to not trusting myself to go higher with arms that were pumping. At time blamed it on overgripping linked to not trusting feet and finding gear fiddly to place, but was a bit baffled by it. However the following day...
S: Full on lurgy. Rest.
S: Lurgy worsens. Rest.
 Tom Green 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> August/Sept: Kyrgyzstan alpine climbing expedition

Nice year plan!
What are your plans for Kyrgyzstan? I'm out there the first two weeks of August -it's obviously 2018s hot destination!
 Bones [:B 27 Nov 2017
In reply to LauraMorrissey:

> Yes the squats (lunges are okay) are a little sore on my knee, but I went to physio again this week and I have some resistance band exercises. Apparently my quads are working overtime and my hamstrings/glutes are not engaging when I squat etc. My physio has explained all this to my trainer so she is going to incorporate more glute exercises in the sessions going forward.

Sounds like you still managed to fit quite a lot in even with moving. I'm impressed!

Would be interested to see which exercises your trainer suggest for your butt. I did squats (no weights) for years without any effect but then started cycling and doing weighted squats at the same time, which led to some muscle gain. Not sure which was most effective but could do with some help in that area too.
 Ally Smith 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Dandan:

> EDIT: I have a +0 ape index so you'd think that would help me with this exercise...

+3" - does that make it harder for me?
OP guy127917 27 Nov 2017
In reply to Tom Green:

I'm going with ISM on a virgin peaks expedition- the last two weeks of August and first of September. I'm not sure the climbing will be super technical but this is closest I could get to good expedition experience in a 3 week break. My longer term alpine goals are the 1938 route, Cassin Ridge and a new route in the Himalayas.
 Tom Green 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Nice one. Looks like there's a tonne of unclimbed stuff to get stuck in to. We'll have to compare notes nearer the time.
 mattrm 27 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st

M - T - Rest
W - 4k run
T -S - Rest
S - Indoor routes

Definitely an improvement on last week. I suspect picking a new physical challenge would be a good idea. On the 'endurance' end of the session, I made a good attempt on a 6a, so did 5 of them with the aim of stuffing myself, which seems to have worked. Based on mrchewey's comment that 'it's supposed to be hard'. I'm currently doing 10 easy routes as a warm up, then 3x5 fr5/6a routes. So I did 6as on the last set, couldn't do it, but got mega pumped about 3/4 of the way up the route. So I guess that's a good thing.

 MauraLorrissey 28 Nov 2017
In reply to Jen-a-Thor:

So this morning we did some glute stuff. Warm up were some butterfly bridges.

We also did some sumo squats with a 16kg kettlebell.

And also to activate the inner thigh, use a foam roller between the legs to squeeze when doing squats.
 Climbthatpitch 29 Nov 2017
In reply to Tom Green:

Looks like I got a bit of work to do to catch up on the push ups and pull ups

Good time on your box step ups. How did you control the boredom factor I had to put the step in front of the Tele
 AlanLittle 29 Nov 2017
In reply to Climbthatpitch:
> Good time on your box step ups. How did you control the boredom factor I had to put the step in front of the Tele

I used to do a lot of them. Music was key for me - over several years I have built up a finely tuned load/hard/motivational playlist. I also use it for ARCing at the wall and Thursday afternoons on the forty storeys of stairs at work.
Post edited at 07:02
 AlanLittle 29 Nov 2017
In reply to Tom Green:

> Alpine Combine Test. 1000'feet vertical (800 15" box steps) in big boots, with 12kg sack in 38:27.

In the book Steve & Scott recommend an 8" to 12" step, and it's amazing how much harder that is. I have 10" and 16" steps, and I'm at least ten minutes faster over 300 metres on the taller one. I simply can't move my legs fast enough on the small step, even wearing training shoes let alone big boots.

(I don't do this any more because I've packed in alpine training to focus on sport climbing. But it makes a change from "my lattice board is steeper than your lattice board")
In reply to AlanLittle:

> But it makes a change from "my lattice board is steeper than your lattice board")

I like that it’s “my pistol squatting cat is fatter than your pistol squatting cat”

Now more seriously, is that book the New Alpinism one, and would it help for skimo (ie too lazy for snow trudging) training?
OP guy127917 29 Nov 2017
In reply to Tom Green:

Definitely. I have very few details at the moment but will drop you a mail at some point.

I bet you'll find the second time you do the alpine combine the numbers go up regardless of training- having a target to beat makes a big difference in that kind of thing. Even with your 10% increase goal, get the actual rep numbers written down and let your brain process internalise them for a while before doing the test and I'm pretty sure you will do it
OP guy127917 29 Nov 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

Yes to some extent- Scott and Steve train skimo racers as well, and recommend it as good training for alpinism. The key takeaways from their method relevant to skimo is lots and lots of low intensity work with a heart rate monitor and core strength development. You can get a good idea of their philosophy and stuff from the articles on https://www.uphillathlete.com/
 Bones [:B 29 Nov 2017
In reply to LauraMorrissey:

Thanks for the info and demos. I'm going to fit these into my gym workouts in the next few weeks.
 Tom Green 29 Nov 2017
In reply to Climbthatpitch:

Thanks mate.
I had two strategies for dealing with how horrendously dull it was...

1. Bite size chunks -had a piece of cardboard With 50, 150, etc written on and I ticked off every 50 steps. I also recorded ‘lap times’ for every 100 steps instead of just timing the whole thing... it became a competition to try and be as fast over each hundred.

2. Focusing on not passing out helped too!
 Tom Green 29 Nov 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

Interesting point. I used 15” as I’d heard that the test was for a step that was 75% of knee height... I must have been misinformed.

I can see that it could be harder on the smaller step, although I guess there’s a balance point for power/strength vs endurance? As in, if you are fit but with lower leg strength a lower(?) height may be easier and vice versus?
 TheFasting 29 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Monday:

- Ran 5 km to the gym, then bouldered with a friend. Mostly tried to do as many as I could.

- Briefly jumped on a 6B+ that I attempted 3-4 times the previous week and got it first try! My third 6B+ ever, so progress might be happening.

- Then ran 5 km back home.

Wednesday:

- First 1.5 hour of limit bouldering. Managed to tick a 6B I tried a few times the week before. Then found a 6B+ that I managed on the second go! I have flashed a 6B+ once before, but have struggled with that grade since.

- 1.5 hour of strength training and hangboarding.

90 kg x 5 squats, 80 kg x 5 bench and 100 kg x 5 deadlifts. All for 3 sets.

Hangboarding 3-6-9 for 4 sets, 30mm open hand, 20mm crimp and half crimp.

I think I did 3 lever one arm chin-ups sometime during this week, might have been this day.

Saturday:

- We had a couple of plus degrees and sun forecasted, and I finally found someone willing to try winter trad climbing with me. Approach was uphill on blank ice, so it took a while. Belay was snowy. But finally ticked my second trad F4c, Gunneng (n4+). Attempted an F5a but psyched myself out. Chickened out on a start variation so could do the other one next time to onsight it, just need to be tougher and not worry so much about falling.
OP guy127917 29 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Having just seen the Margo Hayes film on the reel rock tour I can confirm I definitely wasnt trying hard enough in Espagna!
 Climbthatpitch 29 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

That is an impressive line up of trips you have planned. I'm planning on being in cham around the last week on June first week of July might see you over there

I've dropped my goals for next week as my better half is away and I actually have to be a full time dad for a week - I think the kids are already sick of take aways

STG-Last Week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches) - Tick for the climbs but I did not get on the tools
1 x Mountain Walk - 6 hours - Fail
1 x run - Short <20 min fast pace - Tick
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions - Fail
1x leg strength session - Tick

STG-Next week

2 x condition sessions
2 x run

MTG - Next march

2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3

Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism - Increase all by 10%

Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap

Last weeks training

M - Weighted hike (10kg) 6.5 km, 237 meters accent
T - Bouldering v3 - v4
W - Climbing indoors up to 6a+
T - Rest
F - Run - 4.1km, 5:04 min per km 145 meter elevation gain
S - 1 round TFTNA conditioning
S - Climbing at woodcroft. Climbed Let That Be A Lesson (4c),Dog of the Month (6a+), Caveat Emptor (6a), Much Zebu Crudness (6b).
Pulled a big block off Still Nice and Still Sleazy (6a+) just above the first clip. Luckily the block missed everyone and my bealayer was paying attention and I only grazed the floor . I then fell off the crux because i was holding onto the wrong crimp I was trying to use a really small 2 finger crimp and if I moved my hand 1/2 inch back there was a much better crimp

Lee
 Climbthatpitch 29 Nov 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

40 storeys of stairs at work sound brutal.
Think the Ipod will have to come back out
 Climbthatpitch 29 Nov 2017
In reply to Tom Green and Guy127917

Hi Both

Dont know if you have seen this thread before about Kyrgyzstan but it might be of interest. There looks to be a lot of potential for new routing there

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=559187

OP guy127917 29 Nov 2017
In reply to Climbthatpitch:

Great stuff, thanks for that!
 Tom Green 29 Nov 2017
In reply to Climbthatpitch:

Awesome. Thanks Lee
 biscuit 30 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy. Totally forgot to post last week. Nothing missed I don’t think as I was poorly. Nothing major just an underlying feeling of not being 100% so I didn’t do much.

A better week last week with two trips to BUK and one to the Depot.

New problems just up at BUK so played o those. Quite a few done. Did all the new ones up to V5 and got a couple of V6’s. Good session.

Hard session at the depot trying yellows. Surprised myself by making ok progress on them. 3 goes max on each was the rule so none completed but a handful felt possible.

Full day at BUK coaching. Ended up with a odd number so I ‘had’ to join in. Split into morning on normal problems (volume up to v4) and then the comp wall winter league problems. Great setting, strong people and vets starts at 50 so I’ve got to mix it with the strong kids.
 planetmarshall 30 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> planetmarshall: Whats your impression of the uphill athlete training plans?

Good - mostly just what you could put together yourself from reading "Training for the New Alpinism", though. I was interested to see what a more compressed plan looked like, since most of the plans in TftNA are at least 24 weeks long.

The downside is that they use TrainingPeaks - not a particularly bad service (in fact I think their website and app is pretty well put together) but it's something else you need to subscribe to if you want to get the most from it.

Last week -

Mon Core warm up, bodyweight and axe hangs
Tue Indoor climbing at AW Sheffield. pyramid up to 6b (2nd attempt)
Wed 2x Core, 2x bodyweight and axe hangs
Thu Rest
Fri Driving. Oh, lots of driving.
Sat Honeypot (IV 6) First route of the Winter, and first since the 2015/16 season. Excellent.
Sun Jenga Buttress (III 4). One off Simon's "Chasing the Ephermeral" ticklist - though I'm sure he'd be mortified that his book has inspired a ticklist. I should have asked as I chatted to him and Roger Webb at the crag and asked for directions to the route...

MTG

Some of these are pretty ambitious for this year, but...

Scottish Winter 2017/18

Fallout Corner (Winter) (VI 7)
The Hoarmaster (VI 6)
Savage Slit (Winter) (V 6)
The Guillotine (V 6)
Tholl Gate (VI 6)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)

British Trad Routes (2018):

The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone

Bouldering

Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)

LTG

The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 14:21
 Tom Green 30 Nov 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

Nice ticklist for Scottish Goals! A few on there that hadn't made it on to my radar (Tholl Gate), so thanks for the inspiration!

Good work getting started as well. I've just had to cancel a trip up this weekend, but I've got at least ten days booked in for the rest of December so only gutted, rather than descending in to despair!

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