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 guy127917 10 Dec 2017
Morning all, hope you're all enjoying the snow!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=674903

leon: Welcome back, do you have a tick list to keep you focussed during the winter?
AJM: Thanks for the video- really good to see the routes people are working on. It seems like you could end up in the drink if you swing over the lip too wildly?!
guy127917: Stick to your plan
Jen-A-Thor: Solid rest week!
hms: Do you think 2018 will be the year of 8a?
AlanLittle: Your one arm 58% BW benchmark- is that added or removed? Either way seems like an outlier for 7b r/p (obviously depends on the exact hold shape etc)
Si dH: Interesting stuff- are you doing the fb sessions at home? Managing boredom levels ok?
mrchewy: Great trip summary, definitely making me want to get back to the forest. As for December- sometimes you just have to let your body heal!!
TheFasting: How did the ice climbing go?
Tyler: It can’t be more freezing in Siurana than here (snowing in London). What progress?
Laura Morrissey: Do you have any goals for the Jens visit?
Climbthatpitch: Nice work getting all 4 planned sessions in.
Ally Smith: Is the continuous hang for benchmark or training (presume on 18mm edges)? I’ve never done that one.
Tom Green: I think that is an excellent attitude on eating- the point is not to throw good normal habits out the window just because of the season “by default”.
The sheep: Ouch that sounds painful, hope it’s on the mend. Lucky you have 3 parallel goals
Dandan82: German hangs are slightly less intense on the rings than the bar because you can turn your hands a bit more. This really pulls hard across my chest/front of shoulders, feels simultaneously good and awful. Are you doing shoulder dislocates with a bar or bridges? I find they produce a similar but less intense/more controllable pain…
Powderpuff: Is your quantity measure number of problems, or like a /10 rating?
Mattrm: Few ays of incorporating babies into training suggested last week, anything catch your imagination?
planetmarshall: When is your next trip to Scotland?
biscuit: Sounds like keeping a training diary would be an aid to progression? I just use notes on my phone which takes 10 seconds and here.
Just Tintin: Awesome! I’ve heard that some people make Denali more interesting/harder by dragging a telegraph pole to the summit.
Curious Yellow: Welcome back!
 TheFasting 10 Dec 2017
 Dandan 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Just torrential rain on the south coast, boo!
 mrchewy 10 Dec 2017
In reply to TheFasting:


> I felt so relaxed and confident I really think I might be good enough to do some easy leading by the middle/end of the season this year.

Sounds like you had a great week! Amazing, especially ticking a few 6a routes in a row.
AJM mentioned something last week and I must admit I'm a little surprised at your reluctance to jump on the sharp end straight away. You're obviously progressing well, psyched, feeling strong - just go for it! Personally, I had no mates into climbing and I just went out on my own, soloing what I thought I could do long before I ever put a rope on. That includes climbing down a 5m vertical lump of ice with one axe after bagging a D+ FA of 800m. You're way ahead of were I was then... crack on! We need some tales of ice leading glory!



OP guy127917 10 Dec 2017
Training plan week 1 summary:
Aerobic Volume: 6.2 hours
Running Distance: 26 miles
Strength Sessions: 2
Climbing Sessions: 1

Training plan week 2 plan:
Aerobic Volume: 6.0 hours
Strength Sessions: 2
Climbing Sessions: 1

This was week 1 of my new programme, and it went really well- completed all the sessions and am feeling really good. Nutrition is hanging together now, just about- the real issue is working hard on what I eat in the office (mainly in the afternoon). The volume is the same this week, although we’re in Barcelona for a few days so will have to plan carefully.

Monday: Z2/3 run, 45 minutes
Tuesday: 15 minutes traverse warmup, 6x lead route doubles up to 6c (hard/easy pairs). Felt really great this session after listening to an Arno Illgner podcast- confident and ready to take falls which was good.
Wednesday: 1 hour Z1 run
Thursday: 30 minutes on the stairmaster Z1- 129 floors. TFTNA conditioning session.
Friday: 49 minutes Z1 run
Saturday: 30 minutes on the stairmaster Z1- 127 floors
Sunday: 1:30 Z1-3 run in the snow. May also go climbing for fun later.

 0.5viking 10 Dec 2017
In reply to TheFasting:

Long time since I posted on Fitclub, but still lurking. For first leads in Rjukan I would recommend the unknown WI2 at Krokan. Anakje at Ozzimosis area and a super wide flow completely down at the righthand side which might be skrueis. Also fabrikksfossen as a nice first multipitch although you need to start early to beat the crowds I've heard. And don't do it right after a snowfall as it's a PITA to clean the snow before placing your axes. I did Bølgen as one of my first multipitches, but be aware that the route is longer than the RFguidebook says. We also had our ropes stuck twice abseiling through the trees, something to watch out for as well.

As the others said it sounds like you're comfortable enough on ice to start leading.
 TheFasting 10 Dec 2017
In reply to mrchewy:

My foot slipped once though and I think I had some bad sticks. A few more days of toproping and I think I'll start slowly ticking the lines I've already done on lead maybe to warm up before toproping some more. Don't wanna chew off more than I can chew, I tend to do that.
 TheFasting 10 Dec 2017
In reply to 0.5viking:

I've also been thinking about Lettvann (WI-2) and Bånntjern (WI-2+) as first lead possibilities.

Anakje I've already done a few laps on actually, once without using my ice axes. Can be a good candidate.

Yeah I think I still want to get a few more days in so I feel completely sure I can't fall.
 Si dH 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

What are you training for Guy? Seems like a big change of focus from before? Alpine/winter stuff?

What's the arno illgner podcast? I'm often on the lookout for good ones, but only ones I've found somfar that I listen to regularly are trainingbeta and jamcrack, interspersed with occasional ukc or enourmocast ones. I don't like the host on enourmocast though.

Si
 TheFasting 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Btw when it comes to learning about training I'd like to link this talk by Scott Johnston (co-wrote Training for the New Alpinism) about how endurance works when it comes to the energy systems in the body and how to optimally train it: https://www.facebook.com/uphillathlete/videos/1207164636050638/

Things such as how training in the aerobic zone helps you perform better above the lactate threshold even without training over the threshold (because of a "bigger engine" to deal with the lactic acid) I think can also help with other disciplines like route climbing I bet. I have a theory one of the reasons I could do all the 6a PRs I got this week with barely getting pumped was partially because I've done a lot of aerobic zone stair climbing recently.
 Si dH 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> Si dH: Interesting stuff- are you doing the fb sessions at home? Managing boredom levels ok?

My fingerboards and TRX are all in my cellar - I just go down there with my tablet and kindle, put some music on, and read in between attempts. I quite enjoy it and never get bored - finding enough time is a problem though. With three sessions per week it means having to forgo any outside climbing while I'm doing this programme.

STGs:
- Don't reinjure my finger
- Keep up 1 or 2 sessions per week of shoulder/core training
- Follow 5 week trainingbeta advanced finger training program (started 02/12, so should theoretically finish 15 sessions by 07/01/18.)
- Get finger strength up around 8a+ level on lattice edge ideally. Min target to get back to hanging 67.5kg with either arm on the bm2000 20mm, which was my previous best.)

MTGs:
January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg
- Tetris
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse

LTG: either The Mentalist or Caviar depending on whether family commitments allow for any routes next summer.

M: Fingerboard training week 1 session 2. All 1-arm hang focussed this time. It was supposed to be 10 sets of 3 reps of 5 second hangs on a 20 mm edge on each hand, with weight taken off equal to my 10 second max. All done 3 times ie stright armed, then 90 degrees, then a deep lock. For now I took off 13.6kg, which is my left hand 10 second best on the bm2000 edge. My right hand is a couple of kg stronger than my left, but removing and adding weight in between every hang would be impracticable with my setup as it involves untying and retying knots in a rope. The supposed total of 90 max hangs in a session is massive for me. I think I managed just over half way in the end and then gave up as my fingers were completely spent (I also got interrupted by the baby waking up and needing to soothe him for 30 minutes in the middle, which didn't help). It was a really good workout though and it'll be intersting to see if this week I can last longer. I also mixed in a few 5 second max hangs in the middle as I had my new latice edge and wanted to try it out.*
T: rest
W: Fingerboard training week 1 session 3. Weighted two arm hangs again, like the first session (last Saturday). 10 x 10 second hangs on 14mm edge with +7.9kg (up from +6.8kg last week), 10 x 10 second hangs pinching the ceiling rafters with + 6.8 kg, and 10 x 3 reps of 10 second on/5 second off on the 35 degree slopers with +21 kg, but this reduced to 14 kg for the last 5 sets as I was starting to fail early. The slightly different protocol on the slopers wiped me out.
T: rest
F: work xmas do No.1, nuff said - I didn't earn any Christmas points in your system!
S: recovery
S: Advanced training week 2 session 1. Weighted two arm hangs again, this time with the 3rd set being on the 25mm 2 finger pocket (middle 2). I also upped the weight ont he pinches. So 10 x 10 second max hangs with each of 14 mm edge, ceiling rafter pinches and middle 2 finger pockets. All with + 7.9 kg.
I haven't done any proper shoulder training this week so might try to squeeze a TRX session in later.

*Best benchmarks on the lattice edge for 5 second one-arm hangs were somewhere between 6.8 and 4.5 kg (ie, weight taken off) with my right hand (6.8kg was fairly fine, I failed after 3-4 seconds with 4.5kg) and somewhere between 9.0 and 7.9 kg off with my left hand. This puts my right arm around 8a/+ and my left arm at about 7c+. I didn't spend time refining further as it was in the middle of Monday's training session. Bodyweight clothed was 77 kg so I was certainly holding over 70kg with my right hand. The best I have ever managed on the 20mm edge on the bm2000 is about 67-68 kg, at a time when I was about 5 kg lighter. I find the lattice edge fits my hand better.

Good week overall. In particular I felt noticeably stronger on the pinches today than in the previous 2 sessions, and I'm pleased with initial benchmarking on the lattice edge. Hitting the 8a+ level in max hangs is certainly achievable as long as I can keep finding time to train.

Si
Post edited at 13:17
 AlanLittle 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> AlanLittle: Your one arm 58% BW benchmark- is that added or removed? Either way seems like an outlier for 7b r/p (obviously depends on the exact hold shape etc)

Neither of the above. It's 42% removed, measured by the bathroom scale I'm highly scientifically standing on, leaving 58% of bodyweight actually supported on the rung. Using a small campus rung, about the same width as a beastmaker medium edge but with less radius on it.

From the studies I've seen around 60% of bodyweight one handed seems to be about on par for the level I'm bouldering at (around 6B/C-ish). Adding weight two handed on the same rung I'm at about +25%

I'm benchmarking with percentages rather than absolute weights here because I intend to work on both sides of the power to weight equation over the winter. If I can hold the same absolute weight whilst being lighter, that's just as much of an improvement as being able to hang more weight.

Must be a considerabe effort finding something intelligent/constructive/encouraging to say to everybody every week. Much appreciated.
 Si dH 10 Dec 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Edit: after looking back at some old posts I've realised I had got my previous benchmarks wrong. This is as much for my own records as anything else, but it affects my goals.

My previous max on the BM2000 middle edge for 5 seconds was 69 kg, not 67.5kg. This was on each arm. Clothed bodyweight was 72.5kg at the time. This was in Feb.

So updated STG is to hit 69kg total weight hung on the bm2000 slot and the stretch goal is to hit (BW-4kg) on the lattice edge, with either arm.
OP guy127917 10 Dec 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Mainly an alpine trip to Kryzgystan in August/September plus a few weeks in the alps leading up to it. I'm hoping to sneak in enough climbing training to progress a little bit as well, but I decided sport climbing is definitely not my life priority right now- mountains are.

Chris Kalous is an acquired taste! Neely Quinn used to annoy me as well but I've gotten over it. The Arno one was the Power Climbing Company podcast ( http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ ) which I really like (has a bit more of a coaching angle than most others). The specific episode I mentioned was one of the "patrons only" podcasts though (if you donate $1 a month you get special access etc). I only started doing that recently and chucking a few bucks at the enormocast etc because I realised I get quite a lot of advice and pleasure from those guys!

The only other podcast I recommend to people is the Tim Ferriss' podcast. It's not climbing related (though he did interview Honnold), but I've got a ton of training/nutrition/science/life ideas from his excellent guests. He actually annoys me a lot but it's worth it. There are so many great ones- the obvious people he's interviewed like Arnie, David Blaine etc but my favourites are some the random people I hadn't heard of Coach Sommers (gymnastic strength training), Dom D'Agostino (science of keto diets), Eric Ripert (famous chef), Stanley McCrystal (US military general).
OP guy127917 10 Dec 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:
I can't say how similar that is to a lattice edge obviously (which is 18mm I think)- but for your reference this is from my lattice report, the headline of which was... get stronger (and fitter): https://imgur.com/gallery/WSWZ4

It is effort but I learn a ton from reading everyone's posts properly.
Post edited at 15:15
 Si dH 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Lattice is more like 20mm. You can create an 18mm edge by putting an AA battery in a BM2000 4 finger slot. It's quite a lot worse than a lattice edge.
 AlanLittle 10 Dec 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Agreed. Have never seriously hung on a lattice edge but have fondled one at a wall, and it felt noticeably bigger & comfier than a small campus rung.
 Si dH 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cool, thanks. Good set of podcast recommendations there - I will start with power company and see what I like.

Kyrgystan would be awesome, mountaineering there probably still fees like a wilderness I expect. I'd really like to visit that part of the world as a tourist too, just to see what it's like. We were thinking about a trip to Uzbekistan next year but have basically wimped out due to uncertainty about infrastructure and transoprt options with a 1-year old.
In reply to Si dH:

Was at Gardom’s Woods yesterday as was the only place that was in and thought I’d try the start of Suavito as a joke.
Unfortunately I got pretty far (I’d guess a heel hook and a scary pop away) before realising I had one mat and one increasingly unhappy spotter and ejected while I could do so gracefully. Now trying to work out how realistic the top is for the short. As a recent obsessive, have you come across anyone with short beta? Just looking at videos and my sequence thus far (to the LH) is different to anything there and I’m pretty spanned out by that point. It feels like from LH and arête I could RF outside edge back onto the face under body tension but then would be v cramped to go up. Not sure with the heel everyone’s using that I could have enough to get height for pop...though
I’m sure that’s the same for anyone doing the final move!


 Si dH 10 Dec 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:
Short people's beta at the top is the same. Shorter people find the move to the crimp harder than the top (certainly down to 5ft5-6ish - Ive not seen anyone shorter than that try it). You just have to really go for it and focus on keeping your right heel on. It's not actually that far and if you keep your heel on you should hold it, but it feels really scary.
Post edited at 15:45
 Tyler 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> It can’t be more freezing in Siurana than here (snowing in London). What progress?
I don't think progress is the right word! Weather has been mint here, been able climb in the sun a fair bit but barely had my shirt off. I feel I've been climbing ok but have pretty much failed to get up anything, I think I have to accept that I'm even shitter that I think I am and I know I'm pretty shit. I used to think I was pretty consistent OSing 7a+ but I've not even managed a 7a OS on either my last two trips. Main thing was I enjoyed myself and should be able to hit the ground running next spring unless I lose all self control at Xmas.
M: Did a 6c+ and 7a both second go.
T: backed off a 6c warm up, it felt like White Wand at Stanage! Decided to look at La muerte del sponsor (7b+). Did bottom few bolts to warm up them stick clipped, took ages so got straight back on a TR as it was going dark. Watched Ru rinse an 8a, contrasting moods at dinner....
W: Was going to rest but went on La Muerte and got it second go after a 6c warm up. Watched strong Ru drop a nails 8a+ after the difficulties, contrasting moods at dinner!
T: Rest, Siurana got very busy for Feast of Immaculate conception.
F: Belayed Ru on his 8a+ then tried 4 routes between 7a and 7c, didn't get up any of them. The hardest them felt most doable but still had a crux I didn't really do. Battered.
S: another day of disappointment. Two goes to do a 6c I'd failed to do before (I guess this *may* count as progress) then narrowly failed to get a scaryish, hardish 7a+ on my second go after the OS go ended in ignominy.
S: Only had the morning, clips were in Mandragora so had a spin on this as this had originally been a stated aim of the trip. Did OK but didn't go to top as it was busy. Had a quick RP but spat off crux, pulled back on and went high but not to top as it was busy. Tried to OS a 7a, thought I had it in the bag when, after some burly climbing I found myself on a jug below the chains chalk to the left and right, went right, more failure and recrimination!

I think I've accumulated quite a few self denial points as I only had one slice of cheesecake all week even though we ate out each night.
Post edited at 16:13
 AJM 10 Dec 2017
In reply to TheFasting:

> I have a theory one of the reasons I could do all the 6a PRs I got this week with barely getting pumped was partially because I've done a lot of aerobic zone stair climbing recently

Climbing endurance tends to be very specific (to the forearms basically) so unless the stair climbing has caused you to lose weight I would say it's unlikely to have benefitted your rock climbing (I'd say this about most non climbing endurance training, tbh).

I'd guess bouldering/movement skills/etc or maybe an aerobic boost to the forearms if any of your ice climbing has got a pump on is the more likely culprit...
 mrchewy 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Getting the body to heal... that's the difficult bit Guy, I feel I'm having to play catch up at the moment after all the time out last year. The physio seemed genuinely happy/impressed on Tuesday however and it feels like I've turned a corner this week. Cheers for the stats!

Sorted flights to Basel for mid January, for a five week road trip with a mate from Frankfurt - probably spend most of the time in Siurana but who knows? No fixed plan, the main goal being to make new friends, climb cool routes and try to tick a couple of old projects.

BAHG - Salbit West Ridge
Mobility goal - Shoulder dislocates.
Need to sort some other goals, I have a few things I wanna do but they feel part of the journey, not a destination in themselves.

Mon - Physio mobility work 1hr
Tue - Saw Physio. Shockwave Therapy on both shoulders this time! The left shoulder tendon he was happy with, pleased with the flexibility of my back, we had a chat about issues I've noticed recently and used a body blade to identify all manner of instabilities in the shoulder. Definite no no stuff are pressups, dips and anything to do with rings. Okay things are mobility work with weights and climbing (thankfully) plus buy a body blade and set to sorting the left shoulder.
Wed - Physio stuff 1hr. Went really well which was surprising after the shockwave therapy.
Thu - Paul's garage. Warm up with physio and new bodyblade! It's actually fun. Not been on the board in a while, set to 30deg, pulled on with one foot and used every hold on there pretty easily except the minging 10mm lx grips ones that are slopers at this angle. A big improvement.
Everything from here is two handed - One arm hangs on jugs are next to impossible with left shoulder.
Pullups, can only manage one at a time but one is easy.
Hangs with no weight - Bottom lattice edge 4sec reps. BM1000 bottom 4finger 4sec reps. Top 4finger 1sec. Can't do pockets at all.
Hangs with weight +36kg (total over 120kg eek) Top lattice edge 13sec easy. BM1000 Big 4finger 13sec easy.
Fri - Bodyblade and mobility 1hr. Plus 20min yoga climber core session on youtube was tough for me but helped me pin down the issues with the knee, what's pulling where, so ace progress. Also Bent Hollow body hold for 60sec and Arch body hold for 15sec (rubbish!) to see if the back is now up to core work. Really good session.
Sat - Physio stuff 1hr. December's mobility goal was crushed! Face down, hands at sides and bring above head in a wide arch +3kg in each hand. I couldn't do the arch, maybe only the first 30% with no weight about 8/10 weeks ago. 20min yoga core session, much improved but downwards dog is awful. Bent Hollow BH 2x60sec with 15 cat pose in
between. Arch BH 2x60sec with 2x3reps jefferson curls +10kg. Made a start on cossack squats. Proper knackered after but chuffed to bits.
Sun - Pretty sore, especially the shoulder tendon so took a rest day and walked around a very snowy park.

Really happy with shoulder progress, it seems like all the underlying issues have revealed themselves now and it's a matter of being a little patient, completely focused and it'll sort. Even got a handle on an annoying hip imbalance that's affecting the bad knee but the ACL tweak is good now, so I can start doing some legwork.

Finger stuff - so it seems I'm properly weak in the finger department at the moment, so a good job I generally climb on slabs and vertical. No ability to have a fingerboard at home, so need to find a suitable tree in the park and make an edge to hang from. Was shocked at how easy the big holds felt with 36kg added and I have no idea what that shows? Work to do.

I think climbing is over for me now this year, so I had a think about how the year has gone and I can only be pleased. It started badly in Chulilla, scared and sitting on an easy F5 after 8 months off climbing, to getting back on 7a projects here and abroad but being too weak and looking back, the issues I'm having to address now were what stopped me ticking. Especially the instability in the left shoulder. Climbed well in Switzerland, ticked 6b+ second go and considering I'd only done one before, an onsight of a really soft one - that was progress plus climbing Motorhead etc was really enjoyable. Font last month was an education I can only benefit from also. I'm definitely not as strong as I was three ago, with less endurance too but I'm climbing just as hard as then - if I can keep plugging away, it should be a great summer and autumn.



 AJM 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Thanks for the video- really good to see the routes people are working on. It seems like you could end up in the drink if you swing over the lip too wildly?!

Yeah, so the topout of the 7A (if you don’t drop off from the jug) and the link rightwards that Sam does in the video pass above the water. Force Majeure and its neighbours are fine, touch wood.

I found a different video in the week which had beta for the left hand start (totally different from mine, and if I’m honest not a sequence which I think I’d be inspired to work), but usefully also some beta for the right hand exit which probably adds a grade to both problems and could be a logical progression. About 1.30 here:
youtube.com/watch?v=e_g04vJvNJU&

So much better a week in life this week. MiniAJM slept and no one got ill and so team morale improved dramatically.

Mtg by Easter
- 7B pyramid (1-2-4-some) with the Font 7s being from at least 3 different areas including Font. [0/1, 0/2, 1/4, 0/some … 1 area]
- some trad?
- some sport maybe from - RR, FT, HoM, NS, BHB, LAT
- >90% bw on the lattice rung and some improvements in other PBs. Improvements in shoulder strength/on shouldery problems too.
Ltg 2018, a bit early to say:
- solid dws season
- good autumn trip
- build a base for long term progress - keep getting stronger
Bhag as ever - E5s, Tom et je Ris, ~7c-8a onsight/flash, big adventures that these bring.

Sunday - did some stretching after my last report
Monday - fingerboard I think. Pockets. Got to bw+1.25 on middle 2 for 10s and about 7 secs at bw on front2 on the shallow bottom rung pockets on the 2k.
Tuesday - more stretching
Wednesday - tired so failed to fingerboard. Maybe I did some stretching instead, I forget
Thursday - Christmas party 1:- no guy points obtained. Excess boozes and a late night.
Friday - stretching
Saturday - Cuttings with Ally and hms. Some nondescript 6b to warm up, but still cold. Went bouldering in the end between chatting breaks as roped climbing in a 3 on a cold day didn’t appeal. Managed to tick Neil Armstrong (f7A) in a few goes - I’d done the cheating version with the block (Lance Armstrong) several years ago with Quiddity and Nick Russell so good to go back and feel stronger and fairly ok on the version without. Then went back to try Lightning Strike (f7A+), and remembered that it is all of my weaknesses in one problem and I always feel miles from it. But I feel I should stick with it as it’s an obvious classic and I’ll never do it with a token play every 2 Year’s.
Sunday - no snow but lots of rain. Project. Lots of playing on the new set, did a decent volume of problems. Managed a white (not that they’re colour graded, but they don’t have many big white holds so they’re usually hard) that also involved a crack, this time ringlocking. Overall a pretty decent session. Going to try to do some trx later on to earn a rest day tomorrow.

A good week, got on the scoreboard on the MTG. Hopefully out again next weekend. Still got a half day of holiday unused as well. Xmas party number 2 on Wednesday so maybe fingerboard/trx tues and thurs?
 TheFasting 10 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:

Yeah I thought about that, could be. But the effects of a higher heart rate on the body's energy systems would still be there when climbing, right? So if you can do more work at a lower heart rate, or the body handles higher heart rates better, shouldn't that provide some benefit?

I suspect I'm just moving more efficiently like you say. I haven't been ice climbing since March so probably not that, but I also notice very acutely how better technique makes me less pumped when I climb ice too. It does feel like even when I'm "redlining" pump-wise I recover faster from being on the brink.
 AJM 10 Dec 2017
In reply to TheFasting:

> Yeah I thought about that, could be. But the effects of a higher heart rate on the body's energy systems would still be there when climbing, right? So if you can do more work at a lower heart rate, or the body handles higher heart rates better, shouldn't that provide some benefit?

I’ve always understood the problem to be where the overload occurs: you can max out the specific respiration/recovery/blood flow capabilities of the forearm long before you really stress your body’s wider capability to supply/remove.

 Powderpuff 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hello Guy.

Its the number of problems sir.

Bit of a slow week training as I was out late at a business networking event on Tuesday night which meant eating fatty food and drinking too much beer....I've been a bad lad!

Wednesday
Went to the wall, climbed a v5 second go then spent the rest of the session working a v6/7 problem.

Saturday
Trained on my beastmaker at home
24 easy pull ups
3 sets of 20 push ups
3 sets of 20 sit ups
Some eccentric wrist curls.

I've been giving some thought to my goals for 2018. As other areas of my life are going to make going climbing difficult I plan to keep them achieveable

STG
Phase one go climbing as much as I can to get fit

MTG
Phase two Pyramid or CIR training.
Then phase 3 recruitment training involving some maximal fingerboarding.

LTG
Go outside when the light evenings arrive and climb some new problems in the v5-v8 range and most importantly have fun!


 mattrm 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Si/AJM - Yeah, I know that fingerboarding is the obvious thing, but at the moment, I don't trust the mount that I've got. It's probably ok, but I'm just not 100% about it. Also I've just never got on well with it as a training method. I would say that finger strength is about 5 on my list of weaknesses, so I'm not that fussed about it. I'm already swapping an evening, Rhi goes to choir and I go climbing at the wall.

Jen - It really doesn't leave any time. I think that once he starts going to sleep in his room (6 weeks away) then I'll have the time to get some house work-outs going. BTW, this is the journalling. I also use the activity diary. If I hadn't done FC for the past 8/9 years, I doubt I'd still be climbing or have ever got up to 6bish.

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs (-1lbs)

M - Rest
T - Indoor routes
W - S - Rest

Got out down the wall. Went out for a decent walk on Friday, but it was a bit cold so didn't get as far as I'd hoped. But it was better than nowt. A nice sunny but cold day. The lad seemed to like it, well he slept for most of it, but that was good enough. And yes you can run with the push chair. I just plonk him in a sling and go for a walk insead. 'travel' systems are a pain.
 biscuit 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

Yes I agree - however it goes against what i'm aiming at atm. I have the knowledge and ability to do myself a fully periodised schedule. But life is so busy in other areas at the moment climbing is not high up enough on the list of priorities for me to be able to stick to one. I hate it when that happens and live in a Tyler like state of angst So for the last however long I've just been climbing for the sake of climbing and enjoying it for what it is. It's been very refreshing. I have recently felt the need for a bit of structure, but I want to keep it just at that. So I've set a target of getting strong. It fits with the time and lifestyle I've got atm. I've stuck a goal of V8+ at BUK on it. That's so far off as to be near impossible, but near enough to be tempting.

This week I've given my grumbling left shoulder, elbow, bicep insertion a rest. One climbing session of sorts at MCC (half decent training room they've got now - but they messed up the campus board for FOC) on Monday was it.
Did two bike commutes, so 48 miles done and I've started tagging hill repeats on the end of them. I live on a 300m long 10% hill. So laps on that are pretty tiring. 5 is the record so far.

I've done lots of stretching, eaten well, hardly drunk alcohol and slept well. Amazingly enough I feel really good. Strange eh?

Coaching tomorrow and will have a shoulder/elbow test session after it. The rest of the week will then depend on how that goes. Wed at Depot after coaching is a possible. Prepared to leave it until the weekend if it flares up. I'll be working on finishing off my campervan then but will head to BUK for a break on Sat and Sun.
 AJM 10 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:

> Going to try to do some trx later on to earn a rest day tomorrow.

Ticked, although a little constrained as some of the arm extensions are a lot easier with miniAJMs door open.
 AlanLittle 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

STG (a): Shoulder & elbow rehab exercises at least 3x per week.
STG (b): regain the ability to do a left leg pistol.
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Slacking on both of the STG's, partly due to poorliness.

M:
T: Beastmaker max hangs
Bike one hour
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Decent, fairly relaxed onsighting session. New belayer so didn't try anything hard.
T: Bike one hour.
Armaid arrived - spent half an hour aiding my arms.
F: Boulderwelt with my son, working a circuit project. An odd session - felt crap for 90% of it & thought I might as well have stayed at home, then in the last quarter of an hour suddenly started to get links through moves that I only managed to do in isolation in the previous session.
S: Definitely going down with a cold today, which perhaps explains some of yesterday's not too inspiring performance. Another half an hour armaid while watching moonboard masters.
S: Properly poorly now. Chauffeured son & friend to the bouldering wall but didn't even bother to pack shoes. Did at least see that one of my local moonboards has the new hold sets, which will come in handy when I'm ready to start trying to acquire some power again.
OP guy127917 10 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:

I think this is right unless you are terminally unfit. Your aerobic fitness should impact your recovery time between each pitch and after each training/session day out though, so fitter could (to some extent) mean you can train harder, or do longer multipitch routes/days. I think nose-in-a-day training is fairly aerobic in nature (ie not just ARC)
 AJM 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> I think this is right unless you are terminally unfit. Your aerobic fitness should impact your recovery time between each pitch and after each training/session day out though, so fitter could (to some extent) mean you can train harder, or do longer multipitch routes/days. I think nose-in-a-day training is fairly aerobic in nature (ie not just ARC)

Yes, mostly agree, although there's a balance to be struck as all training demands recovery: if you do a lot of aerobic training for the bigger days etc you will inevitably also be able to do less or less optimum climbing training due to being less well recovered.
 mrchewy 10 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Not so sure a terminally unfit person can manage pistol squats and stair stuff etc or would dream of setting off on long days out. I'd call myself terminally unfit of late but I still rocked up in Switzerland and ticked four big multipitch fairly easily. The walking in and out was knackering but the climbing wasn't at all. We averaged 10min a pitch per person most of the time, so not sluggish. I think I can honestly say that improving my movement skills and decision making made everything easier by the end of the trip and I was still huffing and blowing on the walk to the pub.
 Si dH 10 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:
> Yes, mostly agree, although there's a balance to be struck as all training demands recovery: if you do a lot of aerobic training for the bigger days etc you will inevitably also be able to do less or less optimum climbing training due to being less well recovered.

Also, the last thing you want for rock climbing is more thigh muscle (obviously if you find yourself losing weight overall then that's unlikely to be a concern). It's all a balance of priorities.
Post edited at 22:11
 MauraLorrissey 11 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy… I have a few ideas of what I want to do with Bad-arse Bones when she gets here. I’ve already started a spreadsheet planner.

I have also started my 2018 life goals which I’m very excited about. I’ll update my goals later, but plan on attending all the free walks provided by my training group (https://basecamptraining.com.au/hiking-trips/)

Goals for now…
STG:
*2 pull ups by end of 2017
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
*climb at Mt Ngungun wearing a Xmas hat and tinsel - Dec 17th

MTG:
Mt Tibrogargan:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c)
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
*do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles)
LTG:
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains (either Easter or October)
*climb a big wall before I'm 40

MONDAY
AM Training
Warm up
- Lunges with 8kg kettlebell
- full body twists

x 2 sets progressive squat holds (up to 6 reps with 5kg dumbbell)
x 4 sets plank dumbbell rows (laddered dumbbells 3kg up to 8kg)
x 5 hollows - 1 minute

PM indoor climb
- physio exercises with resistance band
- assisted chin ups to max - 5,4,3
top rope session:
- tried and flashed a few new 22 & 23 (6c/6c+) routes
- attempted a funky long 23(6c+) in a corner. Tried a few times, but the push up move on my left wrist was strong and my wrists are weak.
- attempted my overhung 21 project and got about two-thirds the way up, improvement on last attempt.
- worked and progressed moves on a new 24(7a) route

TUESDAY
Rest day/physio

WEDNESDAY
AM Training

Warm up - downward dog to upward dog movements x 20, trigger point ball on shoulder, active hangs x10, 1 min dead hang (rested briefly after 45sec)

4 sets
x8 one-arm dumbbell row (12.5kg x2, 15kg x2)
x5 overhead press (25kg bar)
x5 each leg reverse planks raises
3 sets
x5 elevated feet push ups
x5 each leg, wide leg glute bridge extensions
x8 ring rows, increased to ring rows with feet elevated for 2 sets
3 sets
x5 zombie lunges each leg (12.kg dumbbell)
x10 double leg raises
x5 jump squats

Physio exercises - hamstring roll-outs x3 sets to max (about 7/8 reps), foam roller leg raises x3 sets (7/8 reps)

PM Climb KP
Lead 'The Bees Knees' 16(5a) - freaked out that there might be a snake on a ledge
T/R "Standing Room Only' 16(5a)

THURSDAY
Yoga
Basecamp Training Xmas Party - #3 for driving and only drinking 1 beer

FRIDAY
AM Training - Alpine Step
#4 for staying out late and getting up at 5am for training

x2 sets: 5 each side Turkish get-ups (8kg kettlebell)

Various exercises:
box step ups with 2kg ball
lunges with 2kg ball overhead
walking squats
reverse lungs with 2kg ball overhead
box step ups with 5kg plate
box step up with broom stick
15kg sandbag get up and shuttles
core exercises

SATURDAY
Metcon Class
5 min ladder
- Burpees
- V-Up's

x50 overhead step ups (5kg plate)
x50 triceps dip
Farmers carry (9kg dumbbell)
x50 jump lunges on boulder mat
x50 squats on boulder mat
Farmers carry (9kg dumbbell)
x50 kettlebell swings (8kg kettlebell)
x50 sit ups
Farmers carry (9kg dumbbell)

– pull up prep work x3 sets seated pull ups (5 reps)

SUNDAY
Beach times with the niece and nephew
- practiced handstands on the beach
 Bones [:B 11 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Jen-A-Thor: Solid rest week!

This week was even more restful and now I feel fully recovered and ready to start week one of my 8 week transition phase from TFTNA. Today is a 24 minute run/walk Z1 then strength training at the gym this evening- I need to make sure this workout includes inner thigh to balance out my upper leg muscle and core.

Last week: M-S: rest ;p - went for a lead climbing session on Tuesday, up to 6b or 6b+, can't quite remember. Felt very happy on lead - just a little tired and didn't warm up properly so got a little twang in my cold hands. Note to self - always warm up!

Transitional phase - week 1 plan:
Aerobic activity - 240mins
Running time - 150mins
Climbing sessions - 2
Fingerboard sessions - 1
Strength sessions - 2
- eat according to plan and note down energy levels, recovery and hydration for next week.

BHG:
climb Nanga Parbat or similar (laughing face)
Lead 8a sport

LTG:
To climb a big wall - El Cap
The Matterhorn
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead E1

MTG for 2018:
Lead 30 x VS
Climb 5 routes from the Aiguilles Rouges book
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
To follow an 8 week nutrition plan to ensure I eat the right things to repair my body after workouts. To fuel my body in order to become more efficient, energetic and fitter without eating in excess
To complete the TFTNA training plan starting with the 8 week transition phase
Goals for Australia in September tbc

STG:
To follow my initial two week nutrition plan - paying attention to my hunger, recovery, energy levels whilst training, hydration and mood
To follow my 8 week transition phase plan from TRTNA this week and keeping a record of progress and assessing it on a weekly basis
To work a 7a on lead at least once a week
To flash 2 6c/6c+ indoor routes for every reset
 Ally Smith 11 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Morning Guy - the hangs can be used for both benchmarking and training, though i didn't have time for them this week as work took me down to the big smoke.

Week 50
M - London with work - Mile End random bouldering session after work (+1pt). Good setting, but bloody busy and slippery warm. Hotel room handstands – I’m rubbish. Protein bar my only dinner (+1pt)
T - Nowt. Massive hotel breakfast & buffet lunch (-2pt) Work “xmas do” despite it barely being December. Binged 3 pints in 90min (-3pt) before heading to another social engagement at Westminster. Skipped dinner (+1pt?)
W - Home late – nowt (-1pt)
T - Bit of TRX, press-ups and a few repeaters to warm-up. Then Lattice Test edge; RH 86.7%; LH 87.0%. By Lattice’s reckoning, that makes me a 7c climber. So f*cking weak – why do I even bother? (-1pt for negativity)
Swapped to BM2K, central slot. Worked my way down to 1.5kg assist on both sides, with a cheeky elbow killing the rotation on the doorframe – pretty much a PB (+1pt). This made me much happier, so I went out into the garden and dug up the Christmas tree to celebrate (-1pt for disregarding my carbon footprint).
Weighted pull-ups: 4x singles @BW+38kg, 2x quadruple @+14kg, 1x 8reps @+5kg (-1pt for not redoing this session before recommending it to hms). Finished with pocket “habituation” 7/3/6/3 BW all combos.
Tree decorating and mulled wine (-1pt)
F - WFH – rest – drive to Brizzle (whiskey -1pt)
S - Portland. 5+ warm-up with gratuitous kneebars (-1pt). Nightmare Scenario, 7c – flonsight (+1pt). Had seen photos of the crux, and belayer reminded me how to do the start shared with the 7a+. Fighting Torque, with much improved beta managed all the moves on go #1. Pseudo RP effort ended at the undercuts, unable to clip. Went to top with a few links, then stripped it as it was degrees! IPA, stollen & whiskey (-3pts)
S - Wetter than desired. Project. Random boulder with hms & AJM – taught the local strong man a lesson by statically ring-locking through crux of a V5/6 (+1pt), but elbows uncomfortably grumbly (-1pt). Tea break, 12x 1on/1off HI aero-cap (+1pt).

On balance; -10pts this week - less indulgence this week - i need to learn to say no to kneebars, mulled wine, and stollen...
OP guy127917 11 Dec 2017
In reply to mrchewy:

Agreed- 'teminally unfit' wasn't a comment on TheFastings fitness level!
 hms 11 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. I think my goals might be more pyramidal - couple of 7cs and a 7c+. Need to square the circle of my best style being on euro-enduro but having a real dislike of serious redpoints far from home. Good week hurling myself at a new training plan but fear I may have goosed my left ring finger.

M - cycle commute, yoga in evening
T - cycle commute. FB warmup, then benchmarking continuous hangs, then min on/min off x10.
W - cycle commute. Core, really hard work.
T - cycle commute. FB warmup, then 5/10/5/3 with increasing weight. L ring finger seriously unhappy after this.
F - basically rest.
S - Cuttings. Warmed up on a totally delightful route which was full of character. 3 TR goes on Nightmare Scenario. Have almost a whole sequence and chunks were flowing nicely.
S - Project due to minging weather. Tried hard on lots of problems, ticked rather a lot less, realised yet again that I'm not a boulderer at heart. Wasn't giving it 100% as knee was having one of its grumbles at the soft matting and I'd forgotten to pack the support thing which sorts the issue out, doh. The very brisk min on/min off x 12 on an easy traverse which got me very hot indeed.

I'd taped the finger before bouldering and added more before the traversing, but by the end of the session it was very sore indeed and has been giving me hell since then. Think I'll have to back off the FB part of my shiny new training plan which is a bugger.
Post edited at 09:41
 Tyler 11 Dec 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

> On balance; -10pts this week - less indulgence this week

Four training sessions and one blow out does not a minus 10 point week make otherwise we're all in trouble! And if we are giving negative points for negative a outlook.........
 the sheep 11 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> The sheep: Ouch that sounds painful, hope it’s on the mend. Lucky you have 3 parallel goals

Cheers Guy, been a light week exercise wise however hand recovery is going well. Managed a quick ride Wednesday evening to clock 26km then nothing until the weekend. Distance year goal pretty much in the bag on the bike so no pressure there

Had a good weekend though. Had a good 10km run over frosty fields and trails on Saturday and a truly wonderful 5km run through snow covered forest on Sunday. It was like being in Narnia!

So whilst not a busy week enough was done to keep me on track, just need to keep the distances up on the running side and make sure i hit the pool every remaining work day this year!
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers. Some mornings when I get up and have slept well I pretend I'm nearly 5'7" so clearly have no excuse!!
Thought it was a case of scariness rather than reach so need to start talking to my brain
 Si dH 11 Dec 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

Cool.
The sequence once you get the lh crimp is; right heel hook, bounce right hand up to highest part of arete, bring lf up to obvious hold, move rf heel up higher again (really high!), really trust the heel (I sort of rocked over it a bit) then slap your rh to the top. Left hand stays on the crimp throughout.
It's towards the end of the last video I put on my vimeo feed. Mina does it in life on hold too.
 Dandan 11 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy, do I get negative points for bringing mince pies into the office today...?

> Dandan82: German hangs are slightly less intense on the rings than the bar because you can turn your hands a bit more. This really pulls hard across my chest/front of shoulders, feels simultaneously good and awful. Are you doing shoulder dislocates with a bar or bridges? I find they produce a similar but less intense/more controllable pain…

I guess they would be a bit easier on the rings, but the OG book suggests that the german hang position is one of the core positions to get right to be able to do all sorts of other moves with good form, so I thought I might as well try to get it right on the bar. It has definitely eased off in the last couple of sessions, the desperate bicep stretch is no longer there and i'm even thinking of removing a weight off my floor pile so I have to drop my toes a bit lower...

Pretty good week, nothing super exciting went on but the elbow is continuing to improve.

M: OG session; Handstands were pretty decent, everything else went to plan, ran out of time to do any of the muscle -up progression.

T: Indoor Boulder; messed around on various problems then did 1on 1off on the pinks on the traverse wall, felt harder than last week!

W: OG session; First time I have done 2 full sessions consecutively. Again some good handstands although nothing nearing 20 seconds this time, muscle-up progressions feel like there might actually possibly be a tiny bit of improvement there. I added climbing tape to my (plastic) rings for grip which worked great, but lowering down into the false grip really hurt the fleshy part of my left palm, I think it might be something I'll just have to battle through.

T: Indoor Boulder; Traverse wall had been stripped so just mooched about on the new problems, tried not to try anything too difficult. The set seems good, big range of difficulties within some colours and some very interesting problems.

F: I decided against going for the third full OG session in a row, I'm guessing the elbow must have been feeling a bit delicate so I didn't want to cause further problems. I've a feeling I might have done absolutely diddly squat!

S: Indoor Routes; I did get an invite from AJM to head to Portland but the forecast didn't look worth the risk (it's 90 minutes each way for us) so off to Calshot we went. Did 1on 1off on a 7a+ which felt pretty steady, i'll need to find something harder for next time, although pickings are slim at that grade.

S: Nothing again, what a lazy weekend I had. Looking at my schedule for the coming week I should have done the OG session because i'm going to have trouble fitting it in tonight.

Nothing much more to add really, I'm happy that things are progressing well and I should be able to climb at least reasonably hard in Margalef, maybe even pull on to some potential project lines, I can't ask for much more than that.
 Dandan 11 Dec 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Fighting Torque, with much improved beta managed all the moves on go #1. Pseudo RP effort ended at the undercuts, unable to clip. Went to top with a few links, then stripped it as it was < 3 degrees!

Out of interest, which beta did you go with? Being long of limb I'm guessing a big reach around the left arete from the undercuts?


> S - Wetter than desired. Project. Random boulder with hms & AJM – taught the local strong man a lesson by statically ring-locking through crux of a V5/6 (+1pt), but elbows uncomfortably grumbly (-1pt). Tea break, 12x 1on/1off HI aero-cap (+1pt).

Hehehe, who was the 'local strongman' or are we talking about AJM here...?
 Ally Smith 11 Dec 2017
In reply to Dandan:

> Out of interest, which beta did you go with? Being long of limb I'm guessing a big reach around the left arete from the undercuts?

undercuts to minging crimp; toe hook eygptian the lower arete, reach the arete hold with LH; spicy slap to flow-stone nose and heart in mouth shuffling to the ledge

> Hehehe, who was the 'local strongman' or are we talking about AJM here...?

He should be recognisable 90% skin tattoos

 Dandan 11 Dec 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

> undercuts to minging crimp; toe hook eygptian the lower arete, reach the arete hold with LH; spicy slap to flow-stone nose and heart in mouth shuffling to the ledge

Ah, that's the beta I used!

> He should be recognisable 90% skin tattoos

Ah yes, I know the chap, hard to miss, did he have his giant wolf-dog with him?

 0.5viking 11 Dec 2017
In reply to TheFasting:

I have actually never seen lettvann due to it being covered in snow. Good to have a local option as well. Is there any ice around Oslo at the moment? Here on the westcoast it has started disappointing. When things almost were in condition thaw came in and destroyed most of it. Going to have a look tomorrow though.
As for feeling that the stairmasters helped in climbing I always feel my climbing endurance gets better if I run frequently. The two explanations I have is either that I breathe better and thus supplying more oxygen rich blood to my forearms or that being a kilo or two lighter helps a lot. I guess stairmasters also work the legs and after winter/alpine training with legwork I feel that I'm able to transfer the weight better through my feet on vertical and slightly overhanging ground, which also makes things feel easier. Keep us updated on your (ice)progression!
 Tom Green 11 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Hi All.

Last week saw a reasonable bounce back from the lurgy, though I took the first half of the week relatively easy as I didn't want to overdo it and knacker myself for my first Scottish weekend. Opened this season's scorecard with a combination of a good route, some conditions frustration and a bit of prospecting for new routes...

SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
PROCESS:
Run a minimum of 500m vertical per week (not achieved so far, although this week saw the target hit but at a walk with a big bag).
Average two core sessions per week (three in two weeks)
Average two shoulder prehab sessions per week (yes)
END GAME:
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on any rock type
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)
Improve Alpine Combine Test by 10% in each category.

MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Improve Alpine Combine Test by a further 10% in each category

LAST WEEK
M: Rest.
T: Core Strength. 3 Sets of 20 sit ups, 1 min front plank, 1 min decline side plank, 20 A frames, 15 press-ups.
W: Shoulder Rehab (bands)
T: Drive to Scotland. Shoulder Rehab (bands).
F: North Wall Groove on Cobbler. Nice route to open the season.
S: Walk in to Beinn Ime. Turf not frozen. Walk out again (should have gone for a good walk, but was partly sulking and partly keen to head east for the following day).
S: Plan was to ski-mo, but snow wasn't great in the Northern Cairngorms so had a good walk to a mystery location to check out how formed some nice unclimbed icelines were... Maybe next weekend if the freeze continues!
In reply to Ally Smith:

Ha - only been there once and know exactly who you mean!

 Cyan 11 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. Problems up to V6.
Wedns: Rest.
Thurs: Wall. Monthly comp. Sprained ankle but won
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Rest. Ate a lot.
Sun: Rest. Ate more.

Don't seem to have done any serious damage to the ankle so on the whole a positive week!
 TheFasting 12 Dec 2017
In reply to 0.5viking:

Apparently Bånntjern (WI-2+) is thin but climbable. Probably going to go there this weekend and just hook my way up it on toprope to let it build some more before I bash the tools into it.

I just walk up and down the stairs in my apartment building though. Or, 75% of the time I take the elevator down to not ruin my legs for other types of training. A stair master would be cool to use once because I've never tested how much I can climb if I only go up. 40% or half of my stair climbing sessions are me going back down again when I get to the top floor.
 leon 13 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I have a tick list from 3 years ago. I'll review it & pull out a few to do in 2018.

Did the two sessions this week. I'm weak(fingers, core, shoulders) but seem to have kept some technique.

Chirstmas is busy so I'll stick to two sessions a week until the new year when things will have to get more structured.
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy. Not sure about telegraph poles...I’m heavy enough by myself!

M - coaching and fingerboard
T - rest
W - routes to 7a+
T - 1 on 2 off and some bimbling
F - late to comp at unit so only managed to get on first 15 problems before having to turn in scorecard
S - snow conditions led to gardoms where I finally got on G-Thang (f6B+) and the sit start at V5. Nice climb though scary snowed up top out. Then got curious and got as far as the final sequence on Suavito (f7B) before realising it was high and I hadn’t got a plan or enough mats or spotters. Great moves and aesthetic line. Adding it to the list.
PM - 180 round for wirksworth WBL
S - back via climbing unit - a few more comp problems and 5x blues

 Climbthatpitch 16 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

A quick update from me so I can get in before Sunday

M - Rest
T - Indoor climbing to 6b
W - Run with my son only 2km but he really enjoyed it
T - Climbing routes to 6b+
F - 10kg weighted hike 1 hour 20 min 300 meters height gain
S - Rest
S - started a conditioning session and felt really slugginsh could only do 2 pull ups my easy warm up squats were hard so I stopped and then developed a cold

Lee

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