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Afternoon- merry seasonal wishes to you all etc. We have one week left of the year, anyone remembered they have 2017 goals to tick at the last minute?
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=676035
hms: Great news about your finger, a Christmas miracle?
AJM: Nice work on another 7A (is this part of your goal ‘medium’ enough?)
Si dH: Hangboard after wine… could end up with either a fitclub point or a pile of regret
Jen: Nice work with getting a set of goals down
biscuit: Any pics of the van progress?
mrchewy: Good choice, I’m a firm believer Instincts are the ‘one true shoe’.
TheFasting: Love the fall into a heap at the end of the moon board vid. Well done for posting your ice video- hope some of the feedback from people was useful.
Tom Green: “Ski touring in Shropshire” make me double take. Btw- given your 5k goal from a few months ago, I’m impressed at your trail running pace!
Tyler: Stay safe on the skidpan roads!
AlanLittle: Hope some of the ideas from AJM and Si was useful? Good job being open about how you’re feeling!
the sheep: Congrats on the cycle and swim goals, hope you’re proud of yourself and enjoy(ed) smashing out that last 44km on the road.
Ally Smith: For my reference what’s your fighting weight?
Dandan82: Have you any thoughts on estimating how close to full elbow health you are? (I guess either in time or function?)
LauraMorrissey: So you’ve been doing your circuits for a while now- is your body adapting to them?
mattrm: Good job on putting a list and some thoughts down. I reckon in a few months you’ll look back and see progress (with sleep if nothing else
climbthatpitch: You guys getting out sport climbing at this time of year are crazy I reckon!
planetmarshall: Good to hear you are on the up. I’ll probably be in Scotland 1-7th Jan- drop me a message if you’re around then?
leon: Onwards and upwards!
Curious Yellow: What was the timer for? Enforcing rest periods?
Just Tintin: Sounds like you are doing well and taking it ‘seriously enough’ to place consistently given a 10 week ‘season’.
AWOL: Powderpuff
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=676035
hms: Great news about your finger, a Christmas miracle?
AJM: Nice work on another 7A (is this part of your goal ‘medium’ enough?)
Si dH: Hangboard after wine… could end up with either a fitclub point or a pile of regret
Jen: Nice work with getting a set of goals down
biscuit: Any pics of the van progress?
mrchewy: Good choice, I’m a firm believer Instincts are the ‘one true shoe’.
TheFasting: Love the fall into a heap at the end of the moon board vid. Well done for posting your ice video- hope some of the feedback from people was useful.
Tom Green: “Ski touring in Shropshire” make me double take. Btw- given your 5k goal from a few months ago, I’m impressed at your trail running pace!
Tyler: Stay safe on the skidpan roads!
AlanLittle: Hope some of the ideas from AJM and Si was useful? Good job being open about how you’re feeling!
the sheep: Congrats on the cycle and swim goals, hope you’re proud of yourself and enjoy(ed) smashing out that last 44km on the road.
Ally Smith: For my reference what’s your fighting weight?
Dandan82: Have you any thoughts on estimating how close to full elbow health you are? (I guess either in time or function?)
LauraMorrissey: So you’ve been doing your circuits for a while now- is your body adapting to them?
mattrm: Good job on putting a list and some thoughts down. I reckon in a few months you’ll look back and see progress (with sleep if nothing else
climbthatpitch: You guys getting out sport climbing at this time of year are crazy I reckon!
planetmarshall: Good to hear you are on the up. I’ll probably be in Scotland 1-7th Jan- drop me a message if you’re around then?
leon: Onwards and upwards!
Curious Yellow: What was the timer for? Enforcing rest periods?
Just Tintin: Sounds like you are doing well and taking it ‘seriously enough’ to place consistently given a 10 week ‘season’.
AWOL: Powderpuff
5
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy,
Quick log in today,active every day this week, clocked 3 x swims, 3 x cycles and 3x runs which was a result given car trouble at the start of the week.
Just 15 km left to hit the final goal
> Afternoon- merry seasonal wishes to you all etc. We have one week left of the year, anyone remembered they have 2017 goals to tick at the last minute
> the sheep: Congrats on the cycle and swim goals, hope you’re proud of yourself and enjoy(ed) smashing out that last 44km
Cheers Guy,
Quick log in today,active every day this week, clocked 3 x swims, 3 x cycles and 3x runs which was a result given car trouble at the start of the week.
Just 15 km left to hit the final goal
Post edited at 14:14
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy - Merry Christmas!
Fighting weight is sub 76kg, though i've been down to sub 75kg a few years ago and performed well (multiple 8b's) at that weight. Fatty is aiming for sub 6kg and stupid doesn't know what being on a diet means, as he just steals his brothers food when hungry.
This week has gone downhill massively;
M - Depot. An-cap triples - better than week before. 1on/2off HI aero-cap x10. The steep 7b was too hard for this after an-cap; I was powering out, rather than getting particularly pumped. 20min/280kcal/4.5km ergo row.
T - Gym. Cross trainer intervals. Deadlift; 10x60kg, 6x80kg, 3x105kg, then back down. 3x10 bench-press @50kg. 3x20 setaed row @39kg. 3x12 lat pull-down @73kg. 3x15 external rotator @12.5lb. Cycle intervals.
W - Pretty wiped out - lots of coffee to sustain last day in office before it closes permanently - I'm now officially a home worker! An-cap FB 10/3/6/4 BW+11kg (guessing 60%ish - not tested strength on this hold recently). Managed all 6 planned sets, failing at 7s in rep 6 of set 5&6. Developed a sore throat throughout the session and felt a wigged out. Quit on the planned FoC aero-cap.
T - Lurgy. Perked up by celebratory champagne infused meal with future in laws.
F - Lurgy. Travelling South. More booze.
S - More lurgy, and yet more booze. A few theraband exercises and press-ups.
S - Still full of cold. Might try some core to stave off pre-christmas boredom.
I need to write down some process goals for next year; >8b+ RP and >E7 HP are the headline goals - there's a list of aspirations for exactly what those might be on my laptop...
Thanks Guy - Merry Christmas!
Fighting weight is sub 76kg, though i've been down to sub 75kg a few years ago and performed well (multiple 8b's) at that weight. Fatty is aiming for sub 6kg and stupid doesn't know what being on a diet means, as he just steals his brothers food when hungry.
This week has gone downhill massively;
M - Depot. An-cap triples - better than week before. 1on/2off HI aero-cap x10. The steep 7b was too hard for this after an-cap; I was powering out, rather than getting particularly pumped. 20min/280kcal/4.5km ergo row.
T - Gym. Cross trainer intervals. Deadlift; 10x60kg, 6x80kg, 3x105kg, then back down. 3x10 bench-press @50kg. 3x20 setaed row @39kg. 3x12 lat pull-down @73kg. 3x15 external rotator @12.5lb. Cycle intervals.
W - Pretty wiped out - lots of coffee to sustain last day in office before it closes permanently - I'm now officially a home worker! An-cap FB 10/3/6/4 BW+11kg (guessing 60%ish - not tested strength on this hold recently). Managed all 6 planned sets, failing at 7s in rep 6 of set 5&6. Developed a sore throat throughout the session and felt a wigged out. Quit on the planned FoC aero-cap.
T - Lurgy. Perked up by celebratory champagne infused meal with future in laws.
F - Lurgy. Travelling South. More booze.
S - More lurgy, and yet more booze. A few theraband exercises and press-ups.
S - Still full of cold. Might try some core to stave off pre-christmas boredom.
I need to write down some process goals for next year; >8b+ RP and >E7 HP are the headline goals - there's a list of aspirations for exactly what those might be on my laptop...
Post edited at 15:07
In reply to guy127917:
Happy hols Guy - thanks again. Tried the Instinct laces properly on Thu and I approve. Half a size up from my Instinct slippers and I'm guessing it's the thicker rubber but they feel exactly the same at the front, with more support for my lardy arse. The heel is not quite as perfect however. I reckon they'd have got me up that 6B slab in Bleau last month...
Usual goals etc.
Mon - Physio appointment first thing. ShockWave on both shoulders, that was the worst yet. He's happy, said the left tendon has far less thickening now and says I don't need to see him again hopefully. Gave me more stuff to do with the bodyblade, like completely impossible to do external rotation of the cuff with the left hand. Had a good chat about going forwards and what to expect, also he things shoulder dislocates might not be possible for me with how my shoulders are - advised strongly to not pursue them as a goal. We'll see.
Tue - AM Stretching & physio PM Weighted mobility (good) yoga (less so) core (useless)
Wed - AM bodyblade PM Stretching and tried lunges
Thu - AM bodyblade & stretching PM shoulders still too bad to hang from, so did 10min traverse at 10deg. Punch bag. 2 pull-ups (perfect and completely straight and relaxed at the bottom). 20 pull-ups @ 1 x 30sec
Weighted mobility when I got home.
Fri - AM bodyblade PM Stretching plus 2 x 30 lunges. Legs mullered after!
Sat - AM bodyblade & basic shoulder mobility PM Brisk walk on flat tarmac. Good for 3miles but ACL a little sore after that. It's not quite there but I'm happy.
Sun - Bodyblade. Tried pull-ups, again managed 2 good ones in a row. Then managed lot of single ones, on the lattice edge and even on the 12mm BM edge! Well happy, that's a huge improvement in a few weeks. Then max hangs, both hands on lattice edge 4sec, 6s, 7s, 8s, 5s. A good session despite shoulders. Can also hang two finger pockets again.
The physio visit was encouraging but even today I can't hang one armed at all - the ShockWave session was brutal, it really was and I had to not go into work on Monday as couldn't turn the steering wheel or lift my arms above my head. Hence being pleased to even be able to attempt stuff today. I've been thinking back and it would seem the left rotator cuff had been kaput since long before I started climbing 7 years ago, so I'm actually heading into 2018 super positive about my climbing.
Today I just about managed external rotation using the body blade, so it's coming together step by step.
I have to say, sacking off indoor bouldering or climbing this month has been great for me. I've only been twice, my head feels great for it and I honestly think the physio has progressed far better. Lots to think about when planning next year's training...
Happy hols Guy - thanks again. Tried the Instinct laces properly on Thu and I approve. Half a size up from my Instinct slippers and I'm guessing it's the thicker rubber but they feel exactly the same at the front, with more support for my lardy arse. The heel is not quite as perfect however. I reckon they'd have got me up that 6B slab in Bleau last month...
Usual goals etc.
Mon - Physio appointment first thing. ShockWave on both shoulders, that was the worst yet. He's happy, said the left tendon has far less thickening now and says I don't need to see him again hopefully. Gave me more stuff to do with the bodyblade, like completely impossible to do external rotation of the cuff with the left hand. Had a good chat about going forwards and what to expect, also he things shoulder dislocates might not be possible for me with how my shoulders are - advised strongly to not pursue them as a goal. We'll see.
Tue - AM Stretching & physio PM Weighted mobility (good) yoga (less so) core (useless)
Wed - AM bodyblade PM Stretching and tried lunges
Thu - AM bodyblade & stretching PM shoulders still too bad to hang from, so did 10min traverse at 10deg. Punch bag. 2 pull-ups (perfect and completely straight and relaxed at the bottom). 20 pull-ups @ 1 x 30sec
Weighted mobility when I got home.
Fri - AM bodyblade PM Stretching plus 2 x 30 lunges. Legs mullered after!
Sat - AM bodyblade & basic shoulder mobility PM Brisk walk on flat tarmac. Good for 3miles but ACL a little sore after that. It's not quite there but I'm happy.
Sun - Bodyblade. Tried pull-ups, again managed 2 good ones in a row. Then managed lot of single ones, on the lattice edge and even on the 12mm BM edge! Well happy, that's a huge improvement in a few weeks. Then max hangs, both hands on lattice edge 4sec, 6s, 7s, 8s, 5s. A good session despite shoulders. Can also hang two finger pockets again.
The physio visit was encouraging but even today I can't hang one armed at all - the ShockWave session was brutal, it really was and I had to not go into work on Monday as couldn't turn the steering wheel or lift my arms above my head. Hence being pleased to even be able to attempt stuff today. I've been thinking back and it would seem the left rotator cuff had been kaput since long before I started climbing 7 years ago, so I'm actually heading into 2018 super positive about my climbing.
Today I just about managed external rotation using the body blade, so it's coming together step by step.
I have to say, sacking off indoor bouldering or climbing this month has been great for me. I've only been twice, my head feels great for it and I honestly think the physio has progressed far better. Lots to think about when planning next year's training...
2
In reply to guy127917:
Merry Christmas fellow fitclubbers. Glad to hear about progress on the shoulder K
STG: still pondering last week's thoughts from AJM & Si
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Rest / parent's evening at school. Armaid & shoulder massage.
T: Office Christmas party
W: Didn't make it to my normal Weds evening routes session. Alex MacIntyre - the Jimi Hendrix of mountaineering - said climbing with a crushing hangover was great training for high altitude, but he was made of sterner stuff than me. Or pretty much anybody else really.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits. Still feeling pretty rough with cold + hangover + not getting enough sleep, and had another of these weird sessions where I feel shit on the warm-ups, get a horrible flash pump on the first couple of attempts on harder things, but then suddenly go well for the last half hour. Hmm.
F: Half an hour armaid & shoulder massage
S: Bike one hour (to Christmas market & back for last minute present shopping)
Wall, Boulderwelt. Working sections & links on my new circuit project; no Christmas tick but nevertheless felt like one of the better sessions of the last few weeks.
S: Half an hour general stretching & mobility - have been neglecting everything but forearms since I got my armaid.
Have finally got my weight back down to where it was in the summer of 2016 when I decided to pack in alpine training. Hurrah. Just in time for Christmas. Am probably not going to attempt to re-hit other lifetime weight landmarks such as "that time when I had dysentery in India".
Merry Christmas fellow fitclubbers. Glad to hear about progress on the shoulder K
STG: still pondering last week's thoughts from AJM & Si
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Rest / parent's evening at school. Armaid & shoulder massage.
T: Office Christmas party
W: Didn't make it to my normal Weds evening routes session. Alex MacIntyre - the Jimi Hendrix of mountaineering - said climbing with a crushing hangover was great training for high altitude, but he was made of sterner stuff than me. Or pretty much anybody else really.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits. Still feeling pretty rough with cold + hangover + not getting enough sleep, and had another of these weird sessions where I feel shit on the warm-ups, get a horrible flash pump on the first couple of attempts on harder things, but then suddenly go well for the last half hour. Hmm.
F: Half an hour armaid & shoulder massage
S: Bike one hour (to Christmas market & back for last minute present shopping)
Wall, Boulderwelt. Working sections & links on my new circuit project; no Christmas tick but nevertheless felt like one of the better sessions of the last few weeks.
S: Half an hour general stretching & mobility - have been neglecting everything but forearms since I got my armaid.
Have finally got my weight back down to where it was in the summer of 2016 when I decided to pack in alpine training. Hurrah. Just in time for Christmas. Am probably not going to attempt to re-hit other lifetime weight landmarks such as "that time when I had dysentery in India".
Post edited at 16:30
3
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. A really busy week:
M - cycle commute. Core session. Yoga afterwards, which had rather a lot of plank.
T - cycle commute. FB warmup, then continous hangs using 7.5kg assist to get hang time up over the minute mark. Finally 5/10/5/3 with very gentle progression up though the weights to +15kg without finger issues.
W - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR. Warmup then min on/2min off x10 circuits on the 7a. I know this circuit well so could go at speed. Break then 5 warm down circuits.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening, continuity so routes in blocks of 5, making sure to climb quickly and smoothly. Still taking >10 mins per set and don't think I can go any faster. 3 sets.
F - FB warmup then 10/3/5/4 on 20mm. Long rest then the same again but final few turned into 10/3/4/4. Apparently this was double the volume I should have done, due to misinterpretting the plan!
S - Weights and theraband. OHP using +8kg, up from last week.
S - start of next plan week, so TCA to do min on/2min off x10 aerocap again. Not so clear which circuit to use as they aren't so familiar. Picked the ~6c on the steep but as I smoothed it out it probably got too easy. The next hardest is quite a jump up though. Then a bit of boulder bimbling for fun.
Throughout the week - lots of worktop pressups, various weights inc forearm curls with 8kg. Haven't dug out the TRX this week though.
Thanks Guy. A really busy week:
M - cycle commute. Core session. Yoga afterwards, which had rather a lot of plank.
T - cycle commute. FB warmup, then continous hangs using 7.5kg assist to get hang time up over the minute mark. Finally 5/10/5/3 with very gentle progression up though the weights to +15kg without finger issues.
W - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR. Warmup then min on/2min off x10 circuits on the 7a. I know this circuit well so could go at speed. Break then 5 warm down circuits.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening, continuity so routes in blocks of 5, making sure to climb quickly and smoothly. Still taking >10 mins per set and don't think I can go any faster. 3 sets.
F - FB warmup then 10/3/5/4 on 20mm. Long rest then the same again but final few turned into 10/3/4/4. Apparently this was double the volume I should have done, due to misinterpretting the plan!
S - Weights and theraband. OHP using +8kg, up from last week.
S - start of next plan week, so TCA to do min on/2min off x10 aerocap again. Not so clear which circuit to use as they aren't so familiar. Picked the ~6c on the steep but as I smoothed it out it probably got too easy. The next hardest is quite a jump up though. Then a bit of boulder bimbling for fun.
Throughout the week - lots of worktop pressups, various weights inc forearm curls with 8kg. Haven't dug out the TRX this week though.
In reply to guy127917:
Hah, thanks Guy, many times you would be right about the wine, but I think I had sobered up enough
STGs:
- Don't reinjure my finger
- Keep up 1 or 2 sessions per week of shoulder/core training
- Follow 5 week trainingbeta advanced finger training program (started 02/12, so should theoretically finish 15 sessions by 07/01/18.)
- Get finger strength up around 8a+ level on lattice edge ideally and back to hanging 69kg with either arm on the bm2000 20mm edge.
MTGs:
January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg
- Tetris
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
LTG: either The Mentalist or Caviar depending on whether family commitments allow for any routes next summer.
M: fingerboarding. I used this to re-benchmark finger strength after 2 and a bit weeks training. Showed a good improvement in the holds I've been training on (especially the 14mm edge) but not so much on any others. I did however manage to meet my 69kg goal with either hand on the bm2000 edge. So the main goal for this training programme is now to hit the 8a+ benchmark on the lattice edge, which will be much tougher.
T: rest
W: training programme week 3 session 2. One arm training 10 sets of 3 reps on the 20 mm edges, then similar on the 35 degree slopers (but could only manage 5 or 6 sets) then 4 sets of 2-armed 10/5 repeaters on the 35 degree slopers.
T: rest
F: training programme week 3 session 3. Two arm max hangs. 8 sets each of max hangs on the 14mm edge, ceiling pinches and 3-finger 18 mm edge.
S: rest
S: took a day off the training programme to meet up with AJM and family at Robin Hood's Stride. Repeated The Cave Problem (f7A) and The Kid (f7A) then went for a beer, good morning.
Good week's training. Pleased with improvements on some holds since starting the training programme although I suspect they are likely temporary at this stage. I'm sure I did some shoulder TRX work too but can't remember when.
Si
Hah, thanks Guy, many times you would be right about the wine, but I think I had sobered up enough
STGs:
- Don't reinjure my finger
- Keep up 1 or 2 sessions per week of shoulder/core training
- Follow 5 week trainingbeta advanced finger training program (started 02/12, so should theoretically finish 15 sessions by 07/01/18.)
- Get finger strength up around 8a+ level on lattice edge ideally and back to hanging 69kg with either arm on the bm2000 20mm edge.
MTGs:
January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg
- Tetris
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
LTG: either The Mentalist or Caviar depending on whether family commitments allow for any routes next summer.
M: fingerboarding. I used this to re-benchmark finger strength after 2 and a bit weeks training. Showed a good improvement in the holds I've been training on (especially the 14mm edge) but not so much on any others. I did however manage to meet my 69kg goal with either hand on the bm2000 edge. So the main goal for this training programme is now to hit the 8a+ benchmark on the lattice edge, which will be much tougher.
T: rest
W: training programme week 3 session 2. One arm training 10 sets of 3 reps on the 20 mm edges, then similar on the 35 degree slopers (but could only manage 5 or 6 sets) then 4 sets of 2-armed 10/5 repeaters on the 35 degree slopers.
T: rest
F: training programme week 3 session 3. Two arm max hangs. 8 sets each of max hangs on the 14mm edge, ceiling pinches and 3-finger 18 mm edge.
S: rest
S: took a day off the training programme to meet up with AJM and family at Robin Hood's Stride. Repeated The Cave Problem (f7A) and The Kid (f7A) then went for a beer, good morning.
Good week's training. Pleased with improvements on some holds since starting the training programme although I suspect they are likely temporary at this stage. I'm sure I did some shoulder TRX work too but can't remember when.
Si
Post edited at 17:09
In reply to Si dH:
Interestingly, Paul mentioned today when I was training at his - he'd spoken to Alex Fry and Alex said that whilst he can hang the bottom BM2000 edge, he's nowhere near hanging the lattice edge. My self and Paul just think it's an awkward edge to hold.
> I did however manage to meet my 69kg goal with either hand on the bm2000 edge. So the main goal for this training programme is now to hit the 8a+ benchmark on the lattice edge, which will be much tougher.
Interestingly, Paul mentioned today when I was training at his - he'd spoken to Alex Fry and Alex said that whilst he can hang the bottom BM2000 edge, he's nowhere near hanging the lattice edge. My self and Paul just think it's an awkward edge to hold.
In reply to guy127917:
Happy Christmas all!
Guy - sadly the true explanation of the timer is not that i am dedicated but that I am too lazy to remember to unclip my timer from my chalkbag!
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. Pretty crap and exhausted - but nice to catch up with friends.
Wedns: Rest.
Thurs: Wall. Boulder up to V6.
Fri: Stressful journey down to Cornwall...
Sat: Rest.
Sun: Rest.
Happy Christmas all!
Guy - sadly the true explanation of the timer is not that i am dedicated but that I am too lazy to remember to unclip my timer from my chalkbag!
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. Pretty crap and exhausted - but nice to catch up with friends.
Wedns: Rest.
Thurs: Wall. Boulder up to V6.
Fri: Stressful journey down to Cornwall...
Sat: Rest.
Sun: Rest.
In reply to mrchewy:
I don't actually find that, I'm sometimes stronger on one and sometimes the other weirdly - but at my current bodyweight, 8a+ means hanging about 73-74kg, which is obviously a sizeable jump on 69kg.
I think lattice/BM preference is very dependent on hand shape and how you most naturally crimp.
> Interestingly, Paul mentioned today when I was training at his - he'd spoken to Alex Fry and Alex said that whilst he can hang the bottom BM2000 edge, he's nowhere near hanging the lattice edge. My self and Paul just think it's an awkward edge to hold.
I don't actually find that, I'm sometimes stronger on one and sometimes the other weirdly - but at my current bodyweight, 8a+ means hanging about 73-74kg, which is obviously a sizeable jump on 69kg.
I think lattice/BM preference is very dependent on hand shape and how you most naturally crimp.
Post edited at 18:05
1
1
In reply to guy127917:
STG: 7a indoors
MTG: 7a+ outdoors
LTG: 7b anywhere
Session01, 30 mins easy bouldering + autobelay easy laps. 2 sets campus board big rungs 0,2,4,6,8 matching each. 2 sets 0,2,4,6 no matching on 2,4. Boulder cave 20mins upto V3 and attempting V4.
Session02, as above, but 3x6b+ autobelay one after other, plus continuous up 6a down 4 for 10mins. Got to last hold on V4 in boulder cave but didn't match to finish.
Session03, 30mins warm up. Then routes 6 or so to 6b+. 3 redpoint attempts at 7a on big overhanging wall. 2nd attempt got above crux to clip 8, but cocked it up on the easier ground.
Session04, Easy bouldering 30 mins, easy circuit board laps 10mins. Moonboard 6 at 6A+ with varying degrees of success. 2 laps on orange on steep circuit board, managing to fall off one move from end each time.
Plus 4km run at weekend with pressups, sit-ups after.
STG: 7a indoors
MTG: 7a+ outdoors
LTG: 7b anywhere
Session01, 30 mins easy bouldering + autobelay easy laps. 2 sets campus board big rungs 0,2,4,6,8 matching each. 2 sets 0,2,4,6 no matching on 2,4. Boulder cave 20mins upto V3 and attempting V4.
Session02, as above, but 3x6b+ autobelay one after other, plus continuous up 6a down 4 for 10mins. Got to last hold on V4 in boulder cave but didn't match to finish.
Session03, 30mins warm up. Then routes 6 or so to 6b+. 3 redpoint attempts at 7a on big overhanging wall. 2nd attempt got above crux to clip 8, but cocked it up on the easier ground.
Session04, Easy bouldering 30 mins, easy circuit board laps 10mins. Moonboard 6 at 6A+ with varying degrees of success. 2 laps on orange on steep circuit board, managing to fall off one move from end each time.
Plus 4km run at weekend with pressups, sit-ups after.
In reply to guy127917:
Training plan week 3 summary:
Aerobic Volume: 6.5 hours
Running Distance: 26 miles
Strength Sessions: 2
Climbing Sessions: 2
Training plan week 4 plan:
Aerobic Volume: 6.6 hours
Strength Sessions: 2
Climbing Sessions: 1
Monday:
45mins running Z2/3
30 minutes stairmaster Z1
1.5 hours bouldering- spent most of the evening working on a slopery black v6
Tuesday: 40 mins running Z2/3
Wednesday:
45 mins running Z1/2
Gym (Killer core + 2 sets TFTNA)
Thursday:
45 mins running Z1/2
1 hour bouldering- sent the black route from Monday- my first V6! (this was one of my FC555 goals)
Friday:
Rest with 6 mile recovery walk through the city
Saturday:
30 minutes stairmaster Z1
Gym (Killer core + 2 sets TFTNA)
Sunday:
1:30 Z1 trail run through muddy woods.
Really good week for me- was hard to fit everything around social calendar but made it work and feel good because of it. Next week is similarly tricky to schedule but hoping to get it done. I’m feeling really good about the volume, I’m feeling good rather than knackered at the moment and enjoying it. Stress definitely built up through the week and lead to sub-optimal dietary choices which was a bit depressing.
Training plan week 3 summary:
Aerobic Volume: 6.5 hours
Running Distance: 26 miles
Strength Sessions: 2
Climbing Sessions: 2
Training plan week 4 plan:
Aerobic Volume: 6.6 hours
Strength Sessions: 2
Climbing Sessions: 1
Monday:
45mins running Z2/3
30 minutes stairmaster Z1
1.5 hours bouldering- spent most of the evening working on a slopery black v6
Tuesday: 40 mins running Z2/3
Wednesday:
45 mins running Z1/2
Gym (Killer core + 2 sets TFTNA)
Thursday:
45 mins running Z1/2
1 hour bouldering- sent the black route from Monday- my first V6! (this was one of my FC555 goals)
Friday:
Rest with 6 mile recovery walk through the city
Saturday:
30 minutes stairmaster Z1
Gym (Killer core + 2 sets TFTNA)
Sunday:
1:30 Z1 trail run through muddy woods.
Really good week for me- was hard to fit everything around social calendar but made it work and feel good because of it. Next week is similarly tricky to schedule but hoping to get it done. I’m feeling really good about the volume, I’m feeling good rather than knackered at the moment and enjoying it. Stress definitely built up through the week and lead to sub-optimal dietary choices which was a bit depressing.
Post edited at 20:33
3
In reply to guy127917:
Hi All
Thanks Guy for the great ongoing analysis and insights. It’s a good boost.
Yep, for two days Shropshire was the new Norway! Need to get more tech savvy so I can share the vids.
I’m not sure whether it’s the trail running that’s impressive or just that I wasn’t pushing myself hard enough a few months ago!?! I love running trails tho, so maybe that’s part of it.
Looking increasingly unlikely that the STGs are going to be on deadline...
SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
PROCESS:
Run a minimum of 500m vertical per week (fail).
Average two core sessions per week (yes)
Average two shoulder prehab sessions per week (yes)
END GAME:
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on any rock type
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)
Improve Alpine Combine Test by 10% in each category.
MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Improve Alpine Combine Test by a further 10% in each category
THIS WEEK:
M: Rest
T: Core session (added new exercises so set longer. 2 sets).
W: Rest
T: Shoulder rehab (bands)
F: Rest
S: Drytooling at white goods. Went expecting to get the red point of Jaz and tick an STG. Instead got a complete schooling and couldn’t even dog up it. Annoying to have gone backwards. Shoulder rehab.
S: Hill sprints (4km warm up run, 6 x 10s max effort, 2km warm down run). Core session (2 sets).
Hi All
Thanks Guy for the great ongoing analysis and insights. It’s a good boost.
> Tom Green: “Ski touring in Shropshire” make me double take. Btw- given your 5k goal from a few months ago, I’m impressed at your trail running pace
Yep, for two days Shropshire was the new Norway! Need to get more tech savvy so I can share the vids.
I’m not sure whether it’s the trail running that’s impressive or just that I wasn’t pushing myself hard enough a few months ago!?! I love running trails tho, so maybe that’s part of it.
Looking increasingly unlikely that the STGs are going to be on deadline...
SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
PROCESS:
Run a minimum of 500m vertical per week (fail).
Average two core sessions per week (yes)
Average two shoulder prehab sessions per week (yes)
END GAME:
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on any rock type
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)
Improve Alpine Combine Test by 10% in each category.
MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Improve Alpine Combine Test by a further 10% in each category
THIS WEEK:
M: Rest
T: Core session (added new exercises so set longer. 2 sets).
W: Rest
T: Shoulder rehab (bands)
F: Rest
S: Drytooling at white goods. Went expecting to get the red point of Jaz and tick an STG. Instead got a complete schooling and couldn’t even dog up it. Annoying to have gone backwards. Shoulder rehab.
S: Hill sprints (4km warm up run, 6 x 10s max effort, 2km warm down run). Core session (2 sets).
1
In reply to guy127917:
Happy Christmas Fit Club, and thanks to all those who think, comment, congratulate, commiserate and advise and therefore make it more than just a free form diary thread.
A fair shout. The time goal is the same really (Easter) but you’re probably right that that is STG territory now.
STG by Easter
- 7B pyramid (1 7B, 2 7A+, 4 7A, some 6C/+) with the Font 7s being from at least 3 different areas including Font. [0/1, 0/2, 4/4, 1/some … 2 areas]
- some trad?
- some sport maybe from - RR, FT, HoM, NS, BHB, LAT
- >90% bw on the lattice rung and some improvements in other PBs. Improvements in shoulder strength/on shouldery problems too.
MTG 2018, a bit early to say:
- solid dws season
- good autumn trip
- build a base for long term progress - keep getting stronger
BHAG as ever - E5s, Tom et je Ris, ~7c-8a onsight/flash, big adventures that these bring.
A poor week and a good weekend.
Nothing done all week. I was off work ill for 3 days and miniAJM was also off nursery with a tummy bug.
Friday we left for Christmas, drove up and visited some friends.
Saturday I helped said friends do some moving in - shifted a few wheelbarrows of firewood around, fought some sofas up stairs, that sort of thing.
Sunday I got out with Si to Robin Hoods Stride. Thanks to having the local knowledge I managed to tick The Cave Problem (f7A) and drag my way up The Kid (f7A). Excellent short session followed by seeing more friends for a drink and the arrival of family.
So the 7A component of the pyramid is complete which means I’m going to have to commit to some 7A+s soon. Gulp. Probably just need to find the right one, given that even allowing for a judicious margin of caution for soft grading/etc 7As seem to be going down fairly well right now. But I have always found that historically a bit of a challenge.
We are up in the Peak until new year (any FC meet ups welcome) so hopefully a few more opportunities to nip out. What I need is a spotter-not-required, not too tricksy, good quality, not too slopery 7A+ in ideally the southern half of the Peak...
Happy Christmas Fit Club, and thanks to all those who think, comment, congratulate, commiserate and advise and therefore make it more than just a free form diary thread.
> AJM: Nice work on another 7A (is this part of your goal ‘medium’ enough?)
A fair shout. The time goal is the same really (Easter) but you’re probably right that that is STG territory now.
STG by Easter
- 7B pyramid (1 7B, 2 7A+, 4 7A, some 6C/+) with the Font 7s being from at least 3 different areas including Font. [0/1, 0/2, 4/4, 1/some … 2 areas]
- some trad?
- some sport maybe from - RR, FT, HoM, NS, BHB, LAT
- >90% bw on the lattice rung and some improvements in other PBs. Improvements in shoulder strength/on shouldery problems too.
MTG 2018, a bit early to say:
- solid dws season
- good autumn trip
- build a base for long term progress - keep getting stronger
BHAG as ever - E5s, Tom et je Ris, ~7c-8a onsight/flash, big adventures that these bring.
A poor week and a good weekend.
Nothing done all week. I was off work ill for 3 days and miniAJM was also off nursery with a tummy bug.
Friday we left for Christmas, drove up and visited some friends.
Saturday I helped said friends do some moving in - shifted a few wheelbarrows of firewood around, fought some sofas up stairs, that sort of thing.
Sunday I got out with Si to Robin Hoods Stride. Thanks to having the local knowledge I managed to tick The Cave Problem (f7A) and drag my way up The Kid (f7A). Excellent short session followed by seeing more friends for a drink and the arrival of family.
So the 7A component of the pyramid is complete which means I’m going to have to commit to some 7A+s soon. Gulp. Probably just need to find the right one, given that even allowing for a judicious margin of caution for soft grading/etc 7As seem to be going down fairly well right now. But I have always found that historically a bit of a challenge.
We are up in the Peak until new year (any FC meet ups welcome) so hopefully a few more opportunities to nip out. What I need is a spotter-not-required, not too tricksy, good quality, not too slopery 7A+ in ideally the southern half of the Peak...
1
In reply to guy127917:
Merry Christmas everyone
Unfortunately, this week I got the illness again so training had a little setback but I will pick it up from week one again next week. On the other hand this meant that I ate very little and what I did eat was mainly wholesome and healthy with the exception of a huge chocolate bar which my mother kept encouraging me to eat because she said it would make me fell better. It was delicious.
Transitional phase - week 2 summary:
Energy levels - fairly low
Recovery - not really applicable
Hydration - drank some water
Aerobic activity - 250 mins
Running time - 99 mins
Climbing sessions - 1
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength sessions - 0
Transitional phase to start next week - week 1 (again) plan:
Aerobic activity - 240mins
Running time - 84 mins
Climbing sessions - 1
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength (and core) sessions - 2
Monday: bouldering session
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: bed
Thursday: rest
Friday: roughly 90 mins walk
Saturday: roughly 60 mins walk
Sunday: 1hr 39 mins running in the woods - I was going slow and taking it easy but it was not so much zone 1/2 training as 4/5. Good to get back out there.
STG:
To get better this week and continue with TFTNA week 1 next week - paying attention to my hunger, recovery, energy levels whilst training and hydration and mood
Eat well over the Christmas period
To follow the next 8 weeks of my transition phase plan from TRTNA - keeping a record of progress and assessing it on a weekly basis
To work a 7a on lead at least once a week
To flash 2 6c/6c+ indoor routes for every reset
Merry Christmas everyone
Unfortunately, this week I got the illness again so training had a little setback but I will pick it up from week one again next week. On the other hand this meant that I ate very little and what I did eat was mainly wholesome and healthy with the exception of a huge chocolate bar which my mother kept encouraging me to eat because she said it would make me fell better. It was delicious.
Transitional phase - week 2 summary:
Energy levels - fairly low
Recovery - not really applicable
Hydration - drank some water
Aerobic activity - 250 mins
Running time - 99 mins
Climbing sessions - 1
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength sessions - 0
Transitional phase to start next week - week 1 (again) plan:
Aerobic activity - 240mins
Running time - 84 mins
Climbing sessions - 1
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength (and core) sessions - 2
Monday: bouldering session
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: bed
Thursday: rest
Friday: roughly 90 mins walk
Saturday: roughly 60 mins walk
Sunday: 1hr 39 mins running in the woods - I was going slow and taking it easy but it was not so much zone 1/2 training as 4/5. Good to get back out there.
STG:
To get better this week and continue with TFTNA week 1 next week - paying attention to my hunger, recovery, energy levels whilst training and hydration and mood
Eat well over the Christmas period
To follow the next 8 weeks of my transition phase plan from TRTNA - keeping a record of progress and assessing it on a weekly basis
To work a 7a on lead at least once a week
To flash 2 6c/6c+ indoor routes for every reset
2
In reply to guy127917:
Merry christmas! Sitting looking out and trying to decide whether I can be bothered to head to Christmas crack - forecast says stanage okay but Matlock is distinctly damp... a busy but fairly okay week for training. Depart ski touring tomorrow so need to get back to Oxford and pack at some point today!
M - climbing unit - blues and oranges
T - drove up to Blencathra to meet with BMC patrons for the ORG.
W - raining in the Lakes? Unbelievable! Jaunt around the Cat Bells loop.
T - tried to get out but too wet so wirksworth - led a soft 7a+ and started WBL - a rare two chances fortnight for this set!
F - climbing unit blues and oranges. Good WCS meeting for new 2018 exciting project.
S - curbar ultimate gritstone experience
S - AM wirksworth WBL second go 205/250
PM climbing unit new woody making up problems
The woody is very exciting but need to read more to learn how best to use it to training advantage instead of just playing around on what I feel like ...
Merry christmas! Sitting looking out and trying to decide whether I can be bothered to head to Christmas crack - forecast says stanage okay but Matlock is distinctly damp... a busy but fairly okay week for training. Depart ski touring tomorrow so need to get back to Oxford and pack at some point today!
M - climbing unit - blues and oranges
T - drove up to Blencathra to meet with BMC patrons for the ORG.
W - raining in the Lakes? Unbelievable! Jaunt around the Cat Bells loop.
T - tried to get out but too wet so wirksworth - led a soft 7a+ and started WBL - a rare two chances fortnight for this set!
F - climbing unit blues and oranges. Good WCS meeting for new 2018 exciting project.
S - curbar ultimate gritstone experience
S - AM wirksworth WBL second go 205/250
PM climbing unit new woody making up problems
The woody is very exciting but need to read more to learn how best to use it to training advantage instead of just playing around on what I feel like ...
In reply to Just Tintin:
I'm impressed you managed to get anything done on the woody after a morning at a bouldering comp! . I've not been down there yet but keen to get on it once I've finished this Fingerboard program, it looks great.
Andy, 7A+s you should try that are ok with no spotter and 2 pads include:
Early Doors (f7A+)
Downhill Gardner (f7A+) (7A really, but has several good 6Cs nearby - Art of Japan (f6C), The Ultimate Gritstone Experience (f6C), Last Light (f6C))
Cloud Cuckoo Land (f7A+) (landing is a bit rocky so no spotter required but 3 or 4 pads would be best - you'd have to take a view yourself. It's near the above.)
Blood Falls (f6C)
Wish (f7A+)
Grizzly Arête (f7A+) (probably - a third pad might help)
Hard Arête (f7A+) (ditto)
I make no promises about lack of sloperyness though - you are in the Peak!
Happy Christmas everyone!
Si
I'm impressed you managed to get anything done on the woody after a morning at a bouldering comp! . I've not been down there yet but keen to get on it once I've finished this Fingerboard program, it looks great.
Andy, 7A+s you should try that are ok with no spotter and 2 pads include:
Early Doors (f7A+)
Downhill Gardner (f7A+) (7A really, but has several good 6Cs nearby - Art of Japan (f6C), The Ultimate Gritstone Experience (f6C), Last Light (f6C))
Cloud Cuckoo Land (f7A+) (landing is a bit rocky so no spotter required but 3 or 4 pads would be best - you'd have to take a view yourself. It's near the above.)
Blood Falls (f6C)
Wish (f7A+)
Grizzly Arête (f7A+) (probably - a third pad might help)
Hard Arête (f7A+) (ditto)
I make no promises about lack of sloperyness though - you are in the Peak!
Happy Christmas everyone!
Si
Post edited at 09:48
1
In reply to wurzelinzummerset:
Hi there, you're based in Bristol aren't you? If you'd like to meet up to climb some time I'd be delighted - currently I don't have a regular outdoor partner for local trips. If you've been doing a lot at TCA or UCR more than likely we'd recognise each other. I'm the older lady with the grey hair!
Hi there, you're based in Bristol aren't you? If you'd like to meet up to climb some time I'd be delighted - currently I don't have a regular outdoor partner for local trips. If you've been doing a lot at TCA or UCR more than likely we'd recognise each other. I'm the older lady with the grey hair!
1
In reply to AJM:
We’re heading out to Austria tomorrow AM but going to curbar now in case you want to start early doors
Possibly back peak on New Year’s Day off you’re still up?
We’re heading out to Austria tomorrow AM but going to curbar now in case you want to start early doors
Possibly back peak on New Year’s Day off you’re still up?
Post edited at 11:00
2
In reply to Si dH:
I’m clearly not trying hard enough at anything..! When you get on it my best attempt at setting a problem so far is:
Match SS Duke
R Seb
L Devil
R Dos
L 2
R Dutch
L Sleepy
R Borg + Match
Sleepy is a cop out so working to eliminate it
I’m clearly not trying hard enough at anything..! When you get on it my best attempt at setting a problem so far is:
Match SS Duke
R Seb
L Devil
R Dos
L 2
R Dutch
L Sleepy
R Borg + Match
Sleepy is a cop out so working to eliminate it
In reply to Just Tintin:
Not today I don't think, but NYD is our last day here (but a full day) so an option there.
Not today I don't think, but NYD is our last day here (but a full day) so an option there.
In reply to hms:
I'm near Bristol. I think I've seen you at Redpoint a few times and we've probably briefly spoken. I'll send you an email via this place later.
> Hi there, you're based in Bristol aren't you? If you'd like to meet up to climb some time I'd be delighted - currently I don't have a regular outdoor partner for local trips. If you've been doing a lot at TCA or UCR more than likely we'd recognise each other. I'm the older lady with the grey hair!
I'm near Bristol. I think I've seen you at Redpoint a few times and we've probably briefly spoken. I'll send you an email via this place later.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Top work on the thread as usual,
The van isn't ready for pics yet. I'm due to build the kitchen unit over the next week or so and then it'll be looking more like a campervan. Even then there's lots of little jobs to be done to finish it off.
Not a bad week. 3 sessions from Tue-Thurs. 2 at BUK and 1 at Depot. Tried lots of purples at Depot (flashed 3, got a handful, failed on many many more) and ticked some more of the winter league. Think i'm on about 220 pts now. Could be more to come but not sure when i'm getting back there. Had a go at the BUK league too. Harder than last time. Ones I didn't get quickly feel well out of my league. 2nd visit I focussed on getting the steep V7 I wanted. After a quick remember of the steep moves I gave it full effort and whacked my elbow on a hold launching for the crux move. Had another go after i'd stopped crying and fluffed up the easier bit. Got it 3rd go, which is lucky as I was starting to tire.
This week I need to get out on my bike as I've got a shiny computer now that can stop me getting lost and provide me with lots of data to make graphs with. Weather/xmas preparations and laziness have conspired to stop me so far.
My chronic shoulder/elbow problems seem to be in a good place currently so time to press on with getting strong. Rather than just pushing on regardless i'm wanting to concentrate on climbing 'better' on BUK V6's and Depot hard reds and starting to use the BUK boards regularly. I've had notice my first placement is nice and local so I should be able to make it to BUK one evening a week and the Depot when coaching.
Thanks Guy. Top work on the thread as usual,
The van isn't ready for pics yet. I'm due to build the kitchen unit over the next week or so and then it'll be looking more like a campervan. Even then there's lots of little jobs to be done to finish it off.
Not a bad week. 3 sessions from Tue-Thurs. 2 at BUK and 1 at Depot. Tried lots of purples at Depot (flashed 3, got a handful, failed on many many more) and ticked some more of the winter league. Think i'm on about 220 pts now. Could be more to come but not sure when i'm getting back there. Had a go at the BUK league too. Harder than last time. Ones I didn't get quickly feel well out of my league. 2nd visit I focussed on getting the steep V7 I wanted. After a quick remember of the steep moves I gave it full effort and whacked my elbow on a hold launching for the crux move. Had another go after i'd stopped crying and fluffed up the easier bit. Got it 3rd go, which is lucky as I was starting to tire.
This week I need to get out on my bike as I've got a shiny computer now that can stop me getting lost and provide me with lots of data to make graphs with. Weather/xmas preparations and laziness have conspired to stop me so far.
My chronic shoulder/elbow problems seem to be in a good place currently so time to press on with getting strong. Rather than just pushing on regardless i'm wanting to concentrate on climbing 'better' on BUK V6's and Depot hard reds and starting to use the BUK boards regularly. I've had notice my first placement is nice and local so I should be able to make it to BUK one evening a week and the Depot when coaching.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks I certainly again guy.
M Turned up for an exam to find I'd requested the wrong one, needless to say I failed whatever the f*ck it was I was sitting. Consoled myself with a BUK session and another look at a Beastmaker app session, this time BM 1000 6C, crimp and middle 2 sets didn't happen, but decided this will be my workout of choice as it has more grip types than the BM 2000 6C
T: Due to administration mix up on my side my holidays started today. Nice daytime but session at BUK where I failed to get up any new witter league probs.
W: Rest
T: Can't remember, probably nothing.
F: BM 1000 6C still failing to do crimps and mid 2
S: Went for a run for first time in ages to prepare Xmas excess, a point to me I guess.
S: BM 1000 6C, slight improvement to crimps as I changed the order, also managed one of the winter league probs I struggled with before.
Thanks I certainly again guy.
> Stay safe on the skidpan roads!
Much warmer this week so good for me but not so good for the gritstone boulderers and winter climbers on here. M Turned up for an exam to find I'd requested the wrong one, needless to say I failed whatever the f*ck it was I was sitting. Consoled myself with a BUK session and another look at a Beastmaker app session, this time BM 1000 6C, crimp and middle 2 sets didn't happen, but decided this will be my workout of choice as it has more grip types than the BM 2000 6C
T: Due to administration mix up on my side my holidays started today. Nice daytime but session at BUK where I failed to get up any new witter league probs.
W: Rest
T: Can't remember, probably nothing.
F: BM 1000 6C still failing to do crimps and mid 2
S: Went for a run for first time in ages to prepare Xmas excess, a point to me I guess.
S: BM 1000 6C, slight improvement to crimps as I changed the order, also managed one of the winter league probs I struggled with before.
In reply to guy127917:
Merry Christmas everyone!
Three sessions this week. I've started to get back on the old ARC circuit. Three years ago it was easy to do 30 mins on, now I'm doing 2 on 1 off!!! I'll keep at it till I can do 20 mins solid.
So goal this week is 3 sessions on the old ARC circuit.
Started to eye-up Cruel Sister(Pavey) as my inspiration route. Its a route I've always wanted to do but the bold bit always stopped me getting on it... Should have asked santa for a tiny bit of courage, too late now...damn......
Merry Christmas everyone!
Three sessions this week. I've started to get back on the old ARC circuit. Three years ago it was easy to do 30 mins on, now I'm doing 2 on 1 off!!! I'll keep at it till I can do 20 mins solid.
So goal this week is 3 sessions on the old ARC circuit.
Started to eye-up Cruel Sister(Pavey) as my inspiration route. Its a route I've always wanted to do but the bold bit always stopped me getting on it... Should have asked santa for a tiny bit of courage, too late now...damn......
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy... what do you consider the circuits specifically? I do feel fitter and stronger. I've also noticed my increased fitness level when carrying my climbing back.
Monday
AM Training
*4 sets barbell squats x6 reps of 6 pulses (30kg)
*4 sets
- zombie lunges (16kg kettlebell)
x8 reps elevated single leg glute bridge
*3 sets
x5 each arm scotty bobs (no weight)
x10 each leg mountain climbers
x30 wall balls (x15 with 15kg ball/x15 with 2kg ball)
*Core exercises with 6kg kettlebell extended arm
PM climbing
-Top rope session. Tried and failed on a few new reds (23/24, 6c/7a).
-Did a bit of overhang bouldering afterwards. Definitely need to be doing more overhangs...
Tuesday
-rest day
Wednesday
AM Training
- 360 degree shoulder rotations on bench (3kg dumbbells)
- 180 degree dumbbell flys (3kg)
- lat pull downs with resistance band
4 sets
x6 reps bicep curl and overhead press with dumbbell (10kg & 9kg)
x6 barbell row (35kg)
2 sets
x6 each arm kettlebell windmills (10kg kettlebell)
x2 pull up (red resistance band)
x5 dips (black resistance band)
- had physio after training. Was tortured for 1.5 hours, but knee feeling much better and my physio is happy with my progress. Still unable to run, but have additional exercises to do.
Thursday
Yoga - strength class
Friday
AM Training "12 Alpine Steps"
- Warm up squats to 'Bring Sally Up"
-12 Alpine steps (4sets)
x12 (each leg) jump squats
x11 high knees jumps
x10 kettlebell swings
x9 kettlebell thrusts
x8 push ups
x7 squats
x6 v snaps
x5 tricep dips
x4 burpess
x3 (each leg) box step ups
x2 handstands
x1 driveway sprint
x3 sets - x10 mountain climbers/driveway sprint
x3 sets - x24 sit ups
Saturday
- rest
Sunday
- walk and swim at the beach
- finally did 2 pull ups... after drinking beer... think I have found the trick to working out
- constructed a trampoline until 1am
STG:
*2 pull ups by end of 2017 (DONE - woooo)
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
MTG:
Mt Tibrogargan:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c)
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
*do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles)
LTG:
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains (either Easter or October)
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
Thanks Guy... what do you consider the circuits specifically? I do feel fitter and stronger. I've also noticed my increased fitness level when carrying my climbing back.
Monday
AM Training
*4 sets barbell squats x6 reps of 6 pulses (30kg)
*4 sets
- zombie lunges (16kg kettlebell)
x8 reps elevated single leg glute bridge
*3 sets
x5 each arm scotty bobs (no weight)
x10 each leg mountain climbers
x30 wall balls (x15 with 15kg ball/x15 with 2kg ball)
*Core exercises with 6kg kettlebell extended arm
PM climbing
-Top rope session. Tried and failed on a few new reds (23/24, 6c/7a).
-Did a bit of overhang bouldering afterwards. Definitely need to be doing more overhangs...
Tuesday
-rest day
Wednesday
AM Training
- 360 degree shoulder rotations on bench (3kg dumbbells)
- 180 degree dumbbell flys (3kg)
- lat pull downs with resistance band
4 sets
x6 reps bicep curl and overhead press with dumbbell (10kg & 9kg)
x6 barbell row (35kg)
2 sets
x6 each arm kettlebell windmills (10kg kettlebell)
x2 pull up (red resistance band)
x5 dips (black resistance band)
- had physio after training. Was tortured for 1.5 hours, but knee feeling much better and my physio is happy with my progress. Still unable to run, but have additional exercises to do.
Thursday
Yoga - strength class
Friday
AM Training "12 Alpine Steps"
- Warm up squats to 'Bring Sally Up"
-12 Alpine steps (4sets)
x12 (each leg) jump squats
x11 high knees jumps
x10 kettlebell swings
x9 kettlebell thrusts
x8 push ups
x7 squats
x6 v snaps
x5 tricep dips
x4 burpess
x3 (each leg) box step ups
x2 handstands
x1 driveway sprint
x3 sets - x10 mountain climbers/driveway sprint
x3 sets - x24 sit ups
Saturday
- rest
Sunday
- walk and swim at the beach
- finally did 2 pull ups... after drinking beer... think I have found the trick to working out
- constructed a trampoline until 1am
STG:
*2 pull ups by end of 2017 (DONE - woooo)
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
MTG:
Mt Tibrogargan:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c)
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
*do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles)
LTG:
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains (either Easter or October)
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy,
As of the end of last week, I wasn't really sure, it had been slowly improving in fits and starts for about 3 months but never seemed quite like things were on the home stretch, it was always very delicate.
Then for some reason in the last couple of days, it's made a massive improvement, its now way beyond where it's been any time since it started to hurt.
The only thing I did differently was to remember to do the lock-off pull-up holds that Huffy the Physio gave me, he told me to do them the day before climbing but it had slipped my mind for a few weeks. I did those then went to Boulder Shack the following day (Christmas eve) and had a great session. They are repainting the comp wall so problems were a bit limited, but then that just encouraged me to play with the 30deg woody, which the elbow seemed to really like!
As of right now it still feels much improved so it wasn't just a fleeting moment of improvement, this little jump in condition couldn't have come at a better time really, I'm off to Margalef in 3 days!
M: OG session, cut short due to time limits, again didn't get to the rings for muscle ups, handstands felt pretty decent though.
T: Indoor boulder; last 'training' session before Margalef, 10 on 10 off ARC stuff and 1 on 1 off on the traverse wall. Felt good, I did 6 reps on the easier red and 4 reps on the harder black. Should be able to get to 10 reps on black pretty soon.
W: Lurgy struck. Made it through work but went home to shiver on the sofa.
T: Felt ok, went to Project after work but literally just sat around and was sociable, probably best I did no climbing.
F: Indoor Routes; Went to a damp and empty Calshot and confirmed that all of their new in-house route setters are a bit rubbish. Didn't do anything hard, still keeping the men's hard comp route for a special occasion.
S: Relapse, felt really rubbish, did basically nothing but did manage the lock-off pull-ups
S: Boulder Shack; felt reasonably recovered but had a great session, felt super strong trying all the new woody problems until I tried some of my old ones and realised the new ones were massively undergraded!
It would have been nice to get on rock one more time before Margalef but the weather was rotten xmas eve and no other opportunities have presented themselves. Should get another indoor climb in tomorrow then its off to the airport early Saturday morning!
Thanks Guy,
> Dandan82: Have you any thoughts on estimating how close to full elbow health you are? (I guess either in time or function?)
As of the end of last week, I wasn't really sure, it had been slowly improving in fits and starts for about 3 months but never seemed quite like things were on the home stretch, it was always very delicate.
Then for some reason in the last couple of days, it's made a massive improvement, its now way beyond where it's been any time since it started to hurt.
The only thing I did differently was to remember to do the lock-off pull-up holds that Huffy the Physio gave me, he told me to do them the day before climbing but it had slipped my mind for a few weeks. I did those then went to Boulder Shack the following day (Christmas eve) and had a great session. They are repainting the comp wall so problems were a bit limited, but then that just encouraged me to play with the 30deg woody, which the elbow seemed to really like!
As of right now it still feels much improved so it wasn't just a fleeting moment of improvement, this little jump in condition couldn't have come at a better time really, I'm off to Margalef in 3 days!
M: OG session, cut short due to time limits, again didn't get to the rings for muscle ups, handstands felt pretty decent though.
T: Indoor boulder; last 'training' session before Margalef, 10 on 10 off ARC stuff and 1 on 1 off on the traverse wall. Felt good, I did 6 reps on the easier red and 4 reps on the harder black. Should be able to get to 10 reps on black pretty soon.
W: Lurgy struck. Made it through work but went home to shiver on the sofa.
T: Felt ok, went to Project after work but literally just sat around and was sociable, probably best I did no climbing.
F: Indoor Routes; Went to a damp and empty Calshot and confirmed that all of their new in-house route setters are a bit rubbish. Didn't do anything hard, still keeping the men's hard comp route for a special occasion.
S: Relapse, felt really rubbish, did basically nothing but did manage the lock-off pull-ups
S: Boulder Shack; felt reasonably recovered but had a great session, felt super strong trying all the new woody problems until I tried some of my old ones and realised the new ones were massively undergraded!
It would have been nice to get on rock one more time before Margalef but the weather was rotten xmas eve and no other opportunities have presented themselves. Should get another indoor climb in tomorrow then its off to the airport early Saturday morning!
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
In all fairness wyndcliff is a really nice crag in the winter and last week I was climbing in a t-shirt for most of it and just sticking a jacket on to belay. It is south facing so gets the best of the weather.
Had a really good week in terms of volume. Missed one climbing session as on Sunday we went to go Wintors but when we got to Chepstow everything was soaking so we went for a walk instead.
Next week is going to be a reduced volume week for me as I have a really busy week in work.
STG - Last week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches, 220 meters) - Almost a tick
1 x Run - 1 hour 15 min - Tick
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace -Fail
1x run - 45 min - Tick (2 mountain walks instead)
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions -Tick
1x TFTNA Conditioning - Tick
Stretch more - Starting to get there
STG - Next week
1 x climb
1 x Run - 1 hour 15 min
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace
1x run - 45 min
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
1x TFTNA Conditioning
Stretch more
MTG - Next march
2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3
Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism - Increase all by 10%
Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c
LTG- August 2018
Mount Blanc
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap
m - Rest
T - Run, 8.6km, 07:34 per KM pace, 426 elevation gain
W - 21 indoor pitches on tools
T- Indoor climbing routes up to 6b
F - 2 rounds conditioning TFTNA
S - Walk up around Pen Y Fan.
S - Walk around the Blorange
Lee
Thanks Guy
In all fairness wyndcliff is a really nice crag in the winter and last week I was climbing in a t-shirt for most of it and just sticking a jacket on to belay. It is south facing so gets the best of the weather.
Had a really good week in terms of volume. Missed one climbing session as on Sunday we went to go Wintors but when we got to Chepstow everything was soaking so we went for a walk instead.
Next week is going to be a reduced volume week for me as I have a really busy week in work.
STG - Last week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches, 220 meters) - Almost a tick
1 x Run - 1 hour 15 min - Tick
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace -Fail
1x run - 45 min - Tick (2 mountain walks instead)
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions -Tick
1x TFTNA Conditioning - Tick
Stretch more - Starting to get there
STG - Next week
1 x climb
1 x Run - 1 hour 15 min
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace
1x run - 45 min
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
1x TFTNA Conditioning
Stretch more
MTG - Next march
2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3
Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism - Increase all by 10%
Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c
LTG- August 2018
Mount Blanc
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap
m - Rest
T - Run, 8.6km, 07:34 per KM pace, 426 elevation gain
W - 21 indoor pitches on tools
T- Indoor climbing routes up to 6b
F - 2 rounds conditioning TFTNA
S - Walk up around Pen Y Fan.
S - Walk around the Blorange
Lee
1
In reply to guy127917:
My phone was being repaired which made it difficult to post sorry!
Last couple of weeks I've found it difficult to climb, mainly down to Christmas work do and having a bad cold.
Climbed once at the wall both weeks.
I'm hoping the coming of a new year will cause a boost to my climbing motivation.
My phone was being repaired which made it difficult to post sorry!
Last couple of weeks I've found it difficult to climb, mainly down to Christmas work do and having a bad cold.
Climbed once at the wall both weeks.
I'm hoping the coming of a new year will cause a boost to my climbing motivation.
In reply to guy127917:
Last week was mostly climbing, which is good. I was trying to get a lot of climbing in before everyone left for Christmas.
Monday:
Lead climbing indoors. Was at the gym I first started at, so I think as some pavlovian response I got scared on lead again. But I did set a gym PR with a 5b on lead that I failed on due to fear last year. Nearly onsighted a 5c, but I pumped out on literally the last move haha. The grades in this gym tend to be harder, so I was pleased with that.
Wednesday:
Went to No match for climb id:150765 to toprope some ice. Did 3 laps up and down a WI3+/WI4 route. Didn't have any issues this time either, never got pumped. I worked on implementing what you guys told me about my footwork. The ice was very wet with one side of it spewing water, so we climbed until the sun hit the crag and then bailed. Very wet ice, but no fallen ice at the bottom of the waterfall so we figured it was safe to toprope. Finished with some drytooling to get a more direct route up to the anchor.
Oh wait I actually did almost fall once. I was traversing and doing the "hook the outer axe over your neck and match on the axe in the direction you're climbing" thing, and the axe I matched on slipped. Then my feet popped and I was about to fall but the axe hooked on something as I was about to go over and I was dangling there with one arm but still held on. So, I need to work on traversing.
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evQoqedKBXM&
Thursday:
Lead climbing indoors. Onsighted my first 6a+ (first ever 6a+ on lead actually), and then my second. Tried a 6b but I didn't see a foothold (it was an arete) and goofed it up. I might have it next time.
Sunday (Christmas Eve):
Went to No match for crag id:21589, aka Hvalsberget, to toprope more ice. Did 5 laps, but it was only WI3 (but there was one side of it that was probably 10 meters vertical) so I got a bit bored. Ended up doing a direct mixed variation through an overhang. Axe popped at one point but the other one was solid so I didn't fall. Seems to become a theme... What mixed grade would this be? Trying to figure out how this compares to other things I want to try.
Mixed variation: youtube.com/watch?v=ZtpvxySnUgM&
Here's the first (more struggly) attempt at the mixed variation, with the rest of the route as well: youtube.com/watch?v=3Th3abqsWMQ&
Please chime in with anything I can improve.
Summary: Great week! Feel at home on the ice still. Maybe I should buy a rack of ice screws for new year's... I feel ready to lead, but I want to do maybe another 4-5 days on toprope before I start with some easy stuff. What do you guys think? Am I overconfident?
Last week was mostly climbing, which is good. I was trying to get a lot of climbing in before everyone left for Christmas.
Monday:
Lead climbing indoors. Was at the gym I first started at, so I think as some pavlovian response I got scared on lead again. But I did set a gym PR with a 5b on lead that I failed on due to fear last year. Nearly onsighted a 5c, but I pumped out on literally the last move haha. The grades in this gym tend to be harder, so I was pleased with that.
Wednesday:
Went to No match for climb id:150765 to toprope some ice. Did 3 laps up and down a WI3+/WI4 route. Didn't have any issues this time either, never got pumped. I worked on implementing what you guys told me about my footwork. The ice was very wet with one side of it spewing water, so we climbed until the sun hit the crag and then bailed. Very wet ice, but no fallen ice at the bottom of the waterfall so we figured it was safe to toprope. Finished with some drytooling to get a more direct route up to the anchor.
Oh wait I actually did almost fall once. I was traversing and doing the "hook the outer axe over your neck and match on the axe in the direction you're climbing" thing, and the axe I matched on slipped. Then my feet popped and I was about to fall but the axe hooked on something as I was about to go over and I was dangling there with one arm but still held on. So, I need to work on traversing.
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evQoqedKBXM&
Thursday:
Lead climbing indoors. Onsighted my first 6a+ (first ever 6a+ on lead actually), and then my second. Tried a 6b but I didn't see a foothold (it was an arete) and goofed it up. I might have it next time.
Sunday (Christmas Eve):
Went to No match for crag id:21589, aka Hvalsberget, to toprope more ice. Did 5 laps, but it was only WI3 (but there was one side of it that was probably 10 meters vertical) so I got a bit bored. Ended up doing a direct mixed variation through an overhang. Axe popped at one point but the other one was solid so I didn't fall. Seems to become a theme... What mixed grade would this be? Trying to figure out how this compares to other things I want to try.
Mixed variation: youtube.com/watch?v=ZtpvxySnUgM&
Here's the first (more struggly) attempt at the mixed variation, with the rest of the route as well: youtube.com/watch?v=3Th3abqsWMQ&
Please chime in with anything I can improve.
Summary: Great week! Feel at home on the ice still. Maybe I should buy a rack of ice screws for new year's... I feel ready to lead, but I want to do maybe another 4-5 days on toprope before I start with some easy stuff. What do you guys think? Am I overconfident?
1
In reply to TheFasting:
I wouldn't say overconfident. If you feel you are ready go for it. Just start on a route you know will be easy for you to get your head in the game.
I am off to Norway for my first ice trip in February and I plan on after a few seconds i hope I will be leading my first routes.
I have been known to do silly things in my life tho
Lee
I wouldn't say overconfident. If you feel you are ready go for it. Just start on a route you know will be easy for you to get your head in the game.
I am off to Norway for my first ice trip in February and I plan on after a few seconds i hope I will be leading my first routes.
I have been known to do silly things in my life tho
Lee
1
In reply to guy127917:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 3lbs
M - T - Rest
W - Indoor routes
T -S - Rest
S - 30 push ups
Got down the wall this week. It was rather tiring, but glad I got out. Threw in a few push ups today so I felt a bit less bad about not having done much more.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 3lbs
M - T - Rest
W - Indoor routes
T -S - Rest
S - 30 push ups
Got down the wall this week. It was rather tiring, but glad I got out. Threw in a few push ups today so I felt a bit less bad about not having done much more.
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