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Afternoon, hope everyone had a lovely xmas and is ready to head into 2018 tonight. I’m impressed how many people updated on xmas day, good dedication. If you haven’t already check it out, you might want to take a look at the Fitclub 2017 review thread here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=676408
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=676329
the sheep: Hope/assume you managed to get the 15km in over xmas?
Ally Smith: Does working from home make training logistics simpler for you?
mrchewy: Great to hear of continued progress!
AlanLittle: Nice to see you’re thinking carefully about goals rather than jumping into anything, especially at this time of year when things get a bit disrupted. Will be very interested to see what you decide to focus on.
hms: How does your continuous hang session work? I only heard about these recently from the power climbing company podcast and they didn’t go into much detail.
Si dH: Great to see progress, keep trying hard to get to that 8a+ benchmark!
Curious Yellow: I see. That’s the main reason I forget to take things to the crag! harnesses, shoes, chalk, partners etc
wurzl: Welcome along! In pursuit of your STG- what would you say is your biggest weakness holding you back from leading 7a right now?
guy127917: Well done on last week, actually happy with training completed for once!
Tom Green: From your drytooling day summary last week- what stopped you on that route? You say you went backwards- do you think that is because of something lacking from your training or like mental prep etc?
AJM: I think you have backed yourself into a corner of now being the time to climb one 7A+! Hope you’ve been enjoying extended time in the peak?
Jen: OK 2018, time to crush!
Just Tintin: Is the climbing unit woody a system board/symmetric or just set? Do the holds have names?!
biscuit: First physio placement… how does that feel?
Tyler: Haha having to sit through the wrong exam is a plot line from many a teen movie…
leon: Thanks for sharing your inspiration route! I find ARC fitness comes back fairly quickly if you’re consistent, boring as it may be!
LauraMorrissey: Hmm… I assumed most of it was circuit based but that’s not the case? Love the alpine steps workout, very festive!
Dandan82: Hope you have a good trip and don’t do yourself any damage!
Climbthatpitch: Good job adjusting your the STGs and ticking them off.
Powderpuff: OK so big question for you- what *is* your climbing motivation?
TheFasting: Have you practiced placing screws on top rope? Could be a good next step? It forces you to make sure you have solid foot placements, and moves your body weight around a bit!
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=676329
the sheep: Hope/assume you managed to get the 15km in over xmas?
Ally Smith: Does working from home make training logistics simpler for you?
mrchewy: Great to hear of continued progress!
AlanLittle: Nice to see you’re thinking carefully about goals rather than jumping into anything, especially at this time of year when things get a bit disrupted. Will be very interested to see what you decide to focus on.
hms: How does your continuous hang session work? I only heard about these recently from the power climbing company podcast and they didn’t go into much detail.
Si dH: Great to see progress, keep trying hard to get to that 8a+ benchmark!
Curious Yellow: I see. That’s the main reason I forget to take things to the crag! harnesses, shoes, chalk, partners etc
wurzl: Welcome along! In pursuit of your STG- what would you say is your biggest weakness holding you back from leading 7a right now?
guy127917: Well done on last week, actually happy with training completed for once!
Tom Green: From your drytooling day summary last week- what stopped you on that route? You say you went backwards- do you think that is because of something lacking from your training or like mental prep etc?
AJM: I think you have backed yourself into a corner of now being the time to climb one 7A+! Hope you’ve been enjoying extended time in the peak?
Jen: OK 2018, time to crush!
Just Tintin: Is the climbing unit woody a system board/symmetric or just set? Do the holds have names?!
biscuit: First physio placement… how does that feel?
Tyler: Haha having to sit through the wrong exam is a plot line from many a teen movie…
leon: Thanks for sharing your inspiration route! I find ARC fitness comes back fairly quickly if you’re consistent, boring as it may be!
LauraMorrissey: Hmm… I assumed most of it was circuit based but that’s not the case? Love the alpine steps workout, very festive!
Dandan82: Hope you have a good trip and don’t do yourself any damage!
Climbthatpitch: Good job adjusting your the STGs and ticking them off.
Powderpuff: OK so big question for you- what *is* your climbing motivation?
TheFasting: Have you practiced placing screws on top rope? Could be a good next step? It forces you to make sure you have solid foot placements, and moves your body weight around a bit!
6
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Apparently the continuous hang needs to be in the sweet spot of between 45s and 90s to be any good as far as ancap. I can't currently hang from 20mm edge for that long without a bit of assistance, so this week I had 6kg assist and could get to a minute on crimp and drag. Back3 still needs a bit more - 8kg just got me over the 45s line, but that was doing it last. 2 goes at each, couple of minutes rest between.
M - core session whilst lunch was cooking and everyone was leaving me alone. 3 mile walk in afternoon. OHPs at +8.5kg, forearm curls ditto.
T - MiL was out for the day so used the chance to get on the FB without funny looks. Continuous hangs as described, 15 min rest then 10/3/5/4 x6 (20mm, 4 finger drag). Not ideal doing 2 back to back ancap but most pragmatic use of the free time.
W - TCA. Off plan bouldering play on the new reds (6a+ to 6c), trying proper hard on each. 6 ticks. Then 1min on/1min off x10 on the lattice with 'support' from D1 who was running the stopwatch. Slave driver.
T - rest. 3 miles walk. Some theraband.
F - pockets. Used AA battery in BM1000 deep 3 finger slot to turn it into about 30mm, then lots of 7/3/6/3 hangs on 2 and 3 finger pockets combos with added weight (or massive assist on the case of back 2)
S - rest. 2 mile urban walk.
S - start of next plan week. Continuity at UCR - 3 blocks of 5 routes, nothing easier than 6a, nothing harder than 6b+. Slight pump at end of set 2 but I was trying to stick to lesser climbed routes rather than just motor up ones I can do with my eyes shut.
Also throughout the week, lots and lots of worktop pressups in blocks of 40. They fit in really well in odd minutes, when cooking etc.
I see from my plan that that week was described as 'light/home focused)! The week just starting will be similar then comes the week from hell.
Thanks Guy. Apparently the continuous hang needs to be in the sweet spot of between 45s and 90s to be any good as far as ancap. I can't currently hang from 20mm edge for that long without a bit of assistance, so this week I had 6kg assist and could get to a minute on crimp and drag. Back3 still needs a bit more - 8kg just got me over the 45s line, but that was doing it last. 2 goes at each, couple of minutes rest between.
M - core session whilst lunch was cooking and everyone was leaving me alone. 3 mile walk in afternoon. OHPs at +8.5kg, forearm curls ditto.
T - MiL was out for the day so used the chance to get on the FB without funny looks. Continuous hangs as described, 15 min rest then 10/3/5/4 x6 (20mm, 4 finger drag). Not ideal doing 2 back to back ancap but most pragmatic use of the free time.
W - TCA. Off plan bouldering play on the new reds (6a+ to 6c), trying proper hard on each. 6 ticks. Then 1min on/1min off x10 on the lattice with 'support' from D1 who was running the stopwatch. Slave driver.
T - rest. 3 miles walk. Some theraband.
F - pockets. Used AA battery in BM1000 deep 3 finger slot to turn it into about 30mm, then lots of 7/3/6/3 hangs on 2 and 3 finger pockets combos with added weight (or massive assist on the case of back 2)
S - rest. 2 mile urban walk.
S - start of next plan week. Continuity at UCR - 3 blocks of 5 routes, nothing easier than 6a, nothing harder than 6b+. Slight pump at end of set 2 but I was trying to stick to lesser climbed routes rather than just motor up ones I can do with my eyes shut.
Also throughout the week, lots and lots of worktop pressups in blocks of 40. They fit in really well in odd minutes, when cooking etc.
I see from my plan that that week was described as 'light/home focused)! The week just starting will be similar then comes the week from hell.
1
In reply to guy127917:
This wound up being a bit of a slow week, but got some things done.
Tuesday:
Went to the climbing gym for some bouldering. Did a bunch of attempts at things I had failed before and that I failed again. But did manage to flash a 6B problem, which had a particular move I've so far been bad at.
Video here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BdN5lNZD0lx/?taken-by=thefasting
It's the sort of move where you have high feet and you're sideways, so to move to the next handhold to get more upright ends up being all upper back. Previously my back responded with "nope, not happening", but this time I did it.
Afterwards did 100 kg x 3 sets of 5 squats
Bench: 40 kg x 8, 50 kg x 8, and got 12 reps with 60 kg on the 8+ set.
Deadlift: 1 set of 5 reps with 120 kg.
Hangboarding: Finished my first cycle of hangboard ladders with 3-6-9-12 x 3, 30mm open hand, 20mm crimp, 20mm half crimp.
Wednesday:
2.5 hour stair climb. Did 1307m elevation gain I think, had to slow down because the ticker was going a bit too fast (was at 166, should be max 157, slowed down until I kept it there). Also now having a dispute with some neighbors that say I can't walk up and down the stairs. Good luck convincing a court about that I told them.
Friday:
First did some climbing on the autobelay. All autoflashes (new term for flashing on the autobelay) on new routes. Warmed up on a 5b, then a 5a. Then did a 6a+. Attempted a 6c and got halfway. Then flashed a 6b+, which is a new PR (previous was 6b). Bad technique as always (need to learn to drop knee): https://www.instagram.com/p/BdVaifWDY9v/?taken-by=thefasting
Then I started the next cycle of hangboarding. 3-6-9 x 3, now on the 20mm for open hand, and +2 kg on the 20mm for crimp and half crimp.
Also did a few sets of ab wheel rollouts, and a +8 and +10 kg pistol squat for fun.
Went home and did 1h15m of stairs again, did 585m (lost 10 minutes due to the neighbors trying to argue again).
Some time during the weekend:
Did 6 reps of towel assisted one arm chin-ups on each arm, managed to hold the eccentric on just one arm for 5 seconds, so that's a PR. Also did some jumping one arm chin-ups and holding on the eccentric movement. Can barely move like 3 cm from the dead hang though.
8 second hold of an advanced tuck front lever.
Only managed something like 2 slow reps of hanging leg raises, have a lot to gain there.
Sunday:
Was going skiing for 5 hours but then I overslept and didn't have time _(?)_/
Summary:
Intended strength sessions: 3. Completed: 1.5
Intended hangboard sessions: 2. Completed: 2.
Intended cardio hours: 10. Completed: 4h15m.
This wound up being a bit of a slow week, but got some things done.
Tuesday:
Went to the climbing gym for some bouldering. Did a bunch of attempts at things I had failed before and that I failed again. But did manage to flash a 6B problem, which had a particular move I've so far been bad at.
Video here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BdN5lNZD0lx/?taken-by=thefasting
It's the sort of move where you have high feet and you're sideways, so to move to the next handhold to get more upright ends up being all upper back. Previously my back responded with "nope, not happening", but this time I did it.
Afterwards did 100 kg x 3 sets of 5 squats
Bench: 40 kg x 8, 50 kg x 8, and got 12 reps with 60 kg on the 8+ set.
Deadlift: 1 set of 5 reps with 120 kg.
Hangboarding: Finished my first cycle of hangboard ladders with 3-6-9-12 x 3, 30mm open hand, 20mm crimp, 20mm half crimp.
Wednesday:
2.5 hour stair climb. Did 1307m elevation gain I think, had to slow down because the ticker was going a bit too fast (was at 166, should be max 157, slowed down until I kept it there). Also now having a dispute with some neighbors that say I can't walk up and down the stairs. Good luck convincing a court about that I told them.
Friday:
First did some climbing on the autobelay. All autoflashes (new term for flashing on the autobelay) on new routes. Warmed up on a 5b, then a 5a. Then did a 6a+. Attempted a 6c and got halfway. Then flashed a 6b+, which is a new PR (previous was 6b). Bad technique as always (need to learn to drop knee): https://www.instagram.com/p/BdVaifWDY9v/?taken-by=thefasting
Then I started the next cycle of hangboarding. 3-6-9 x 3, now on the 20mm for open hand, and +2 kg on the 20mm for crimp and half crimp.
Also did a few sets of ab wheel rollouts, and a +8 and +10 kg pistol squat for fun.
Went home and did 1h15m of stairs again, did 585m (lost 10 minutes due to the neighbors trying to argue again).
Some time during the weekend:
Did 6 reps of towel assisted one arm chin-ups on each arm, managed to hold the eccentric on just one arm for 5 seconds, so that's a PR. Also did some jumping one arm chin-ups and holding on the eccentric movement. Can barely move like 3 cm from the dead hang though.
8 second hold of an advanced tuck front lever.
Only managed something like 2 slow reps of hanging leg raises, have a lot to gain there.
Sunday:
Was going skiing for 5 hours but then I overslept and didn't have time _(?)_/
Summary:
Intended strength sessions: 3. Completed: 1.5
Intended hangboard sessions: 2. Completed: 2.
Intended cardio hours: 10. Completed: 4h15m.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks once again guy.
A predictably easy week. Two visits to BUK interspersed by lots of eating, current weigh ~10'13" which isn't too bad but just been to M&S to buy a whole load more empty calories.
Been trying to do some "proper" training so stuck to the Beastmaker app and also tried some campusing. At the moment I can't even do 1-3-5 on the medium (actually pretty massive) rungs (managed it once leading with my right). I've discovered I literally cannot crimp which may explain a few things, not sure if that's something I can work on.
All the best for 2018 everyone.
BTW any of you SW types got a view on whether it's worth making a trip down to Brean this month?
Thanks once again guy.
A predictably easy week. Two visits to BUK interspersed by lots of eating, current weigh ~10'13" which isn't too bad but just been to M&S to buy a whole load more empty calories.
Been trying to do some "proper" training so stuck to the Beastmaker app and also tried some campusing. At the moment I can't even do 1-3-5 on the medium (actually pretty massive) rungs (managed it once leading with my right). I've discovered I literally cannot crimp which may explain a few things, not sure if that's something I can work on.
All the best for 2018 everyone.
BTW any of you SW types got a view on whether it's worth making a trip down to Brean this month?
1
1
In reply to Tyler:
If the weather on the day is good it will be nice - there's little seepage so it's largely determined by the conditions on the day.
> BTW any of you SW types got a view on whether it's worth making a trip down to Brean this month?
If the weather on the day is good it will be nice - there's little seepage so it's largely determined by the conditions on the day.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks guy. It's been great although fairly changeable weather combined with snowmelt has been testing my crag selection abilities and highlighting severe weaknesses!
- Xmas day and boxing day was family central. Got a copy of overcoming gravity though so a lot to think about.
-27th we snuck out to Newstones for the last hour of the day - cracking weather but being higher up and further west it had held the snow so a lot of snow on topouts and a bitterly cold wind.
-28th we tried to go to Burbage, in-laws to walk miniAJM and us to climb. We got there, although the road surface was rapidly being skated and polished up by the traffic. Decided not a good choice for nervous in-laws. Retreated to hathersage and then to Curbar. On off snow showers, and Trackside was wet, so went for a walk in the end.
-29th we rested
- 30th we tried to go to the Churnet. We slithered around and found nothing but wet rock. Had lunch and went to the roaches by mid afternoon which was drying but too blowy for the little man I think
- today we went to Birchen and Curbar. I tried Gritstone Megamix (f7A), which frankly is both too hard and too high for my skill level. Shifted crags for an opportunity to warm cold folk up again and managed to tick off Trackside (f7A). Shifted to baby minding after that but quite fancy Bad Lip on a future visit.
So another 7A ticked, although that and GM work on very different scales!!! Morning tomorrow still then heading home. It's been a good trip although the vagaries of winter weather have meant a few wasted missions and not a lot of opportunities to work problems for long periods.
STG by Easter
- 7B pyramid (1 7B, 2 7A+, 4 7A, some 6C/+) with the Font 7s being from at least 3 different areas including Font. [0/1, 0/2, 5/4, 1/some … 2 areas]
- some trad?
- some sport maybe from - RR, FT, HoM, NS, BHB, LAT
- >90% bw on the lattice rung and some improvements in other PBs. Improvements in shoulder strength/on shouldery problems too.
MTG 2018, a bit early to say:
- solid dws season
- good autumn trip
- build a base for long term progress - keep getting stronger
BHAG as ever - E5s, Tom et je Ris, ~7c-8a onsight/flash, big adventures that these bring.
> AJM: I think you have backed yourself into a corner of now being the time to climb one 7A+! Hope you’ve been enjoying extended time in the peak?
Thanks guy. It's been great although fairly changeable weather combined with snowmelt has been testing my crag selection abilities and highlighting severe weaknesses!
- Xmas day and boxing day was family central. Got a copy of overcoming gravity though so a lot to think about.
-27th we snuck out to Newstones for the last hour of the day - cracking weather but being higher up and further west it had held the snow so a lot of snow on topouts and a bitterly cold wind.
-28th we tried to go to Burbage, in-laws to walk miniAJM and us to climb. We got there, although the road surface was rapidly being skated and polished up by the traffic. Decided not a good choice for nervous in-laws. Retreated to hathersage and then to Curbar. On off snow showers, and Trackside was wet, so went for a walk in the end.
-29th we rested
- 30th we tried to go to the Churnet. We slithered around and found nothing but wet rock. Had lunch and went to the roaches by mid afternoon which was drying but too blowy for the little man I think
- today we went to Birchen and Curbar. I tried Gritstone Megamix (f7A), which frankly is both too hard and too high for my skill level. Shifted crags for an opportunity to warm cold folk up again and managed to tick off Trackside (f7A). Shifted to baby minding after that but quite fancy Bad Lip on a future visit.
So another 7A ticked, although that and GM work on very different scales!!! Morning tomorrow still then heading home. It's been a good trip although the vagaries of winter weather have meant a few wasted missions and not a lot of opportunities to work problems for long periods.
STG by Easter
- 7B pyramid (1 7B, 2 7A+, 4 7A, some 6C/+) with the Font 7s being from at least 3 different areas including Font. [0/1, 0/2, 5/4, 1/some … 2 areas]
- some trad?
- some sport maybe from - RR, FT, HoM, NS, BHB, LAT
- >90% bw on the lattice rung and some improvements in other PBs. Improvements in shoulder strength/on shouldery problems too.
MTG 2018, a bit early to say:
- solid dws season
- good autumn trip
- build a base for long term progress - keep getting stronger
BHAG as ever - E5s, Tom et je Ris, ~7c-8a onsight/flash, big adventures that these bring.
In reply to Tyler:
Haha. Maybe it's a typo but if you mean it makes you feel lazy, if it helps any I usually don't post everything I do in a session at once but spread it out a bit. Then again there are boring things I never post.
I am hooked on instagram though. I love how easy it is to post, and having a log of a lot of the things I do to look back on how I progress. Recently I found the first ever video I took of me bouldering and realized I have actually not just gotten better on paper. And it's great to see what you need to work on. I've actually gained a few friends from insta and even got some free gear from a famous Norwegian alpinist.
Haha. Maybe it's a typo but if you mean it makes you feel lazy, if it helps any I usually don't post everything I do in a session at once but spread it out a bit. Then again there are boring things I never post.
I am hooked on instagram though. I love how easy it is to post, and having a log of a lot of the things I do to look back on how I progress. Recently I found the first ever video I took of me bouldering and realized I have actually not just gotten better on paper. And it's great to see what you need to work on. I've actually gained a few friends from insta and even got some free gear from a famous Norwegian alpinist.
Post edited at 19:36
In reply to TheFasting:
Yep, that's exactly what I meant, I never noticed the typo. I joined Instagram a month or so ago, still not sure what it's for, I still prefer Twitter
Yep, that's exactly what I meant, I never noticed the typo. I joined Instagram a month or so ago, still not sure what it's for, I still prefer Twitter
1
In reply to AJM:
Cool, I might post something later in the month to see if there are any Fit Clubers who fancy meeting up.
Cool, I might post something later in the month to see if there are any Fit Clubers who fancy meeting up.
2
In reply to guy127917:
Can anyone play this?
25th - Christmas walk, family stickle tarn wet gale, survival epic
26th - middlefell butress (MFB) damp solo
27th - swim blea tarn (5 mins ), MFB with Isobel
28th - 'Slip knot' white ghyll back rope solo
29th - Ski blea tarn road
30th- Stickle tarn with wife, MFB with Isobel, night
31st - Bowfell, failed to summit, made it to Three tarns 600m ascent , 1hr up (stately)
Gained about 4kg over festive
ST - get down to 80kg
MT - climb an E1 before end Feb
LT - ignore joints and keep breathing, 2018 - exercise on 75% days, climb 300 routes of all types
Can anyone play this?
25th - Christmas walk, family stickle tarn wet gale, survival epic
26th - middlefell butress (MFB) damp solo
27th - swim blea tarn (5 mins ), MFB with Isobel
28th - 'Slip knot' white ghyll back rope solo
29th - Ski blea tarn road
30th- Stickle tarn with wife, MFB with Isobel, night
31st - Bowfell, failed to summit, made it to Three tarns 600m ascent , 1hr up (stately)
Gained about 4kg over festive
ST - get down to 80kg
MT - climb an E1 before end Feb
LT - ignore joints and keep breathing, 2018 - exercise on 75% days, climb 300 routes of all types
Post edited at 20:08
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks. Indoors, if I refine tactics a little, I maybe just need a bit of luck to get one before it's reset. Otherwise, I need something else steep and non-cruxy to be set to have another chance. Failing that I need to get stronger, which I would say is my biggest weakness, and that's strong in the sense of climbing statically rather than throwing myself about on jugs. Outdoors I ticked a 7a a year back, and there are several I've worked in the past I think I could get now, once I get my head back into outdoor climbing.
STG: 7a indoors
MTG: 7a+ outdoors
LTG: 7b anywhere
Session 01: easy bouldering and autobelay laps 30mins. Campus big rungs, matching 0,2,4,6,8 x 2 sets. Medium rungs matching 0,1,2,3,4,5 x 2 sets. 2 attempts at V4 on boulder cave roof. 3 routes 6a+ to 6b+. I run up the 7a yellow, coming off after clip 8.
Session 02: 40mins continuous climbing up and down on a 4ish green on autobelay. 5 routes 6a+ to 6b+. Worked a black (7a ish) for a bit
Session 03: 20mins easy bouldering and autobelay. Campus big rungs matching 0,2,4,6 2xsets. 2 attempts at V4 on boulder cave roof. Got it 2nd go. 7 routes 6a to 6b+. I run up the 7a yellow, off at clip 7. Spent some time working the 2 blacks adjacent (7a ish). Didn't get very far with the left one, right one was more promising, but still hard.
Session 04; easy bouldering and circuit board laps 20 mins. Worked some more moonboard "easy" problems for 30mins -- these weren't actually very easy at all! 2 laps on the orange on the steep circuit board. Got to one move from end on first go. Then 3 from end 2nd.
Also, a quick hill walk for a few hours just to keep some fitness incase I can get away winter climbing in Scotland or Wales.
> wurzl: Welcome along! In pursuit of your STG- what would you say is your biggest weakness holding you back from leading 7a right now?
Thanks. Indoors, if I refine tactics a little, I maybe just need a bit of luck to get one before it's reset. Otherwise, I need something else steep and non-cruxy to be set to have another chance. Failing that I need to get stronger, which I would say is my biggest weakness, and that's strong in the sense of climbing statically rather than throwing myself about on jugs. Outdoors I ticked a 7a a year back, and there are several I've worked in the past I think I could get now, once I get my head back into outdoor climbing.
STG: 7a indoors
MTG: 7a+ outdoors
LTG: 7b anywhere
Session 01: easy bouldering and autobelay laps 30mins. Campus big rungs, matching 0,2,4,6,8 x 2 sets. Medium rungs matching 0,1,2,3,4,5 x 2 sets. 2 attempts at V4 on boulder cave roof. 3 routes 6a+ to 6b+. I run up the 7a yellow, coming off after clip 8.
Session 02: 40mins continuous climbing up and down on a 4ish green on autobelay. 5 routes 6a+ to 6b+. Worked a black (7a ish) for a bit
Session 03: 20mins easy bouldering and autobelay. Campus big rungs matching 0,2,4,6 2xsets. 2 attempts at V4 on boulder cave roof. Got it 2nd go. 7 routes 6a to 6b+. I run up the 7a yellow, off at clip 7. Spent some time working the 2 blacks adjacent (7a ish). Didn't get very far with the left one, right one was more promising, but still hard.
Session 04; easy bouldering and circuit board laps 20 mins. Worked some more moonboard "easy" problems for 30mins -- these weren't actually very easy at all! 2 laps on the orange on the steep circuit board. Got to one move from end on first go. Then 3 from end 2nd.
Also, a quick hill walk for a few hours just to keep some fitness incase I can get away winter climbing in Scotland or Wales.
In reply to guy127917:
I'm just back from Wales and off out getting ratted - post tomorrow.
Enjoy your evening of hedonism folks!
I'm just back from Wales and off out getting ratted - post tomorrow.
Enjoy your evening of hedonism folks!
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers, nailed the last 15km and a few more.
Got a Fat Lad at the Back tri suit from the in laws too so very happy.
Cheers, nailed the last 15km and a few more.
Got a Fat Lad at the Back tri suit from the in laws too so very happy.
In reply to guy127917:
Happy New Year Guy & everybody
STG:??? as per last week. Meanwhile ticking over.
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: er, "rest"?
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Short session with the offspring decidedly lacking in post-Christmas motivation
W:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Better: 7a circuit project ticked.
F: An hour shoulders, elbows, mobility
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Mostly coaching a friend's daughters on their first visit, so did some beastmaker hangs afterwards to compensate for not actually having bouldered all that much. Generally matching previous bests, so good.
S: Unseasonal heatwave (12 degrees) and all the snow has melted, so went out for an hour's pre-party afternoon bike ride. This takes my total for the year to around 100 hours general aerobic/base training. Which is half of what I did last year when I was still training for alpine goals up to August, but that's fine. I don't currently have any goals involving general aerobic endurance in the mountains, and two hours a week average seems like plenty for general basic health.
Happy New Year Guy & everybody
STG:??? as per last week. Meanwhile ticking over.
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: er, "rest"?
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Short session with the offspring decidedly lacking in post-Christmas motivation
W:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Better: 7a circuit project ticked.
F: An hour shoulders, elbows, mobility
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Mostly coaching a friend's daughters on their first visit, so did some beastmaker hangs afterwards to compensate for not actually having bouldered all that much. Generally matching previous bests, so good.
S: Unseasonal heatwave (12 degrees) and all the snow has melted, so went out for an hour's pre-party afternoon bike ride. This takes my total for the year to around 100 hours general aerobic/base training. Which is half of what I did last year when I was still training for alpine goals up to August, but that's fine. I don't currently have any goals involving general aerobic endurance in the mountains, and two hours a week average seems like plenty for general basic health.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy, I guess they are circuits. Looking forward to the new programme in the new year.
Monday
**Christmas day** tired due to 5am wake up call due to my over excited nephew! The kids faces when they saw the trampoline was priceless.
"Rest Day" unless swimming and drinking beers in my dad's lap pool count?
Tuesday
- rest
Wednesday
- 1hr 45 min cycle. Achieved my 'uni loop circuit' goal, although my strava didn't work so it didn't get recorded... estimate 21kms.
Thursday
- rest, beach day
Friday
- 10km cycle
Saturday
- rest day. Flatmate and I finally put up the Beastmaker and some practice anchor bolts. Spent the morning learning several sport anchors on the balcony and definitely feel more comfortable about testing them out on the rock.
Sunday
- rest day
The festive period has been great to catch up with family and friends. My mood does seem to be affected by the amount of exercise I do which I need to keep in mind when I have so much time off and no actual holiday plans. I found going and exploring on my bike a lot of fun, if not a little hot and muggy. Excited for new goals for the 2018 year!
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles) - done
STG:
**do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
**lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point by 31/01/2018
**Dave Creek Circuit Hike
** one outdoor climbing trip a month
MTG:
Mt Tibrogargan:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c)
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
LTG:
*100km cycle - either Brisbane to Bay (June) or cycle to Gold Coast (Oct)
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains (either Easter or October)
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
Thanks Guy, I guess they are circuits. Looking forward to the new programme in the new year.
Monday
**Christmas day** tired due to 5am wake up call due to my over excited nephew! The kids faces when they saw the trampoline was priceless.
"Rest Day" unless swimming and drinking beers in my dad's lap pool count?
Tuesday
- rest
Wednesday
- 1hr 45 min cycle. Achieved my 'uni loop circuit' goal, although my strava didn't work so it didn't get recorded... estimate 21kms.
Thursday
- rest, beach day
Friday
- 10km cycle
Saturday
- rest day. Flatmate and I finally put up the Beastmaker and some practice anchor bolts. Spent the morning learning several sport anchors on the balcony and definitely feel more comfortable about testing them out on the rock.
Sunday
- rest day
The festive period has been great to catch up with family and friends. My mood does seem to be affected by the amount of exercise I do which I need to keep in mind when I have so much time off and no actual holiday plans. I found going and exploring on my bike a lot of fun, if not a little hot and muggy. Excited for new goals for the 2018 year!
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles) - done
STG:
**do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
**lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point by 31/01/2018
**Dave Creek Circuit Hike
** one outdoor climbing trip a month
MTG:
Mt Tibrogargan:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c)
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
LTG:
*100km cycle - either Brisbane to Bay (June) or cycle to Gold Coast (Oct)
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains (either Easter or October)
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy.
You've been doing this long enough that my tablet has now started giving me 'Guy' as one of the three suggested following words when I write "Thanks"... really appreciate the time you put in.
STGs:
- Don't reinjure my finger
- Keep up 1 or 2 sessions per week of shoulder/core training
- Follow 5 week trainingbeta advanced finger training program (started 02/12, so should theoretically finish 15 sessions by 07/01/18.)
- Get finger strength up around 8a+ level on lattice edge.
MTGs:
January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg
- Tetris
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
LTG: either The Mentalist or Caviar depending on whether family commitments allow for any routes next summer.
M: Christmas day. Did 6-8 sets of TRX exercises (low rows, reverse flies, IYWs) in and around the splurge.
T: Fingerboard training programme week 4 session 1. 2 armed max hangs again on the 14mm edge, ceiling pinches and 2 finger pockets (middle two.) I increased the added weight a little on all of them.
W: rest.
T: Fingerboard training programme week 4 session 2. 1 arm hangs on the 20mm edge again, but this time for 10 seconds with a bit more weight taken off. Followed by some 1 arm lockoffs on the 35 degree sloper and assisted 1 arm chin ups on the good 4 finger pockets. My elbows started playing up half way, so I cut the number of reps. (I was also tired as this all happened at 6am after Sol refused to sleep all night and then conked out after I'd taken him downstairs at 5am......)
F: rest
S: Got a bit of lurgy but not too bad. I was visiting family in the NW so didn't have any training facilities at home. Went to the Boardroom instead. Nice wall. Unfortunately didn't find the lattice and moon boards until I was leaving (they should put a sign up from the other training area.) I did a few max hangs on 2 arms but mostly bouldered. Did 10-15 of the red v3-5 circuit which were almost all flashes, but then the yellow v4-6 circuit seemed a very big step up (>> 1 grade) and I was out of gas to do any. Psicobloc looks fun.
S: rest/lurgy
Quite a tough week with an over excited 5-month-old. Too many visitors and loud flashing toys. Major sleep deprivation from Monday until Friday/Saturday.
Only 4 sessions of the plan left now. Hoping to do one today but still got lurgy so we'll see.
S
Thanks Guy.
You've been doing this long enough that my tablet has now started giving me 'Guy' as one of the three suggested following words when I write "Thanks"... really appreciate the time you put in.
STGs:
- Don't reinjure my finger
- Keep up 1 or 2 sessions per week of shoulder/core training
- Follow 5 week trainingbeta advanced finger training program (started 02/12, so should theoretically finish 15 sessions by 07/01/18.)
- Get finger strength up around 8a+ level on lattice edge.
MTGs:
January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg
- Tetris
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
LTG: either The Mentalist or Caviar depending on whether family commitments allow for any routes next summer.
M: Christmas day. Did 6-8 sets of TRX exercises (low rows, reverse flies, IYWs) in and around the splurge.
T: Fingerboard training programme week 4 session 1. 2 armed max hangs again on the 14mm edge, ceiling pinches and 2 finger pockets (middle two.) I increased the added weight a little on all of them.
W: rest.
T: Fingerboard training programme week 4 session 2. 1 arm hangs on the 20mm edge again, but this time for 10 seconds with a bit more weight taken off. Followed by some 1 arm lockoffs on the 35 degree sloper and assisted 1 arm chin ups on the good 4 finger pockets. My elbows started playing up half way, so I cut the number of reps. (I was also tired as this all happened at 6am after Sol refused to sleep all night and then conked out after I'd taken him downstairs at 5am......)
F: rest
S: Got a bit of lurgy but not too bad. I was visiting family in the NW so didn't have any training facilities at home. Went to the Boardroom instead. Nice wall. Unfortunately didn't find the lattice and moon boards until I was leaving (they should put a sign up from the other training area.) I did a few max hangs on 2 arms but mostly bouldered. Did 10-15 of the red v3-5 circuit which were almost all flashes, but then the yellow v4-6 circuit seemed a very big step up (>> 1 grade) and I was out of gas to do any. Psicobloc looks fun.
S: rest/lurgy
Quite a tough week with an over excited 5-month-old. Too many visitors and loud flashing toys. Major sleep deprivation from Monday until Friday/Saturday.
Only 4 sessions of the plan left now. Hoping to do one today but still got lurgy so we'll see.
S
Post edited at 12:04
2
In reply to guy127917:
Nice to see you patting yourself on the back for a good last week - and hope you've enjoyed the festivities.
STG - Tie on a rope and get falling.
MTG - 7a
LTG - 7A
BHAG - Salbit West Ridge
Mon - Rest Day
Tue - AM Bodyblade PM Drive to Wales
Wed - 4hrs Over 600m ascent. Up and over Y Garn in the snow and down Devil's Kitchen before watching Chiz have a swim in the lake. ACL was fine. Bodyblade shizzle.
Thu - 3.5hrs Over 450m of ascent. Up and around a snowy Moel Siabod, ignoring the ridge as it was busy, going around the back and then up directly to the summit via boulders etc. Came off the west side and once over the style did some running down the icy path. Only the third time I've ever really let go running down hill and it felt great - legs felt good. Sore knee later but to be expected. Took the long walk back. Bodyblade physio.
Fri - Rest day. Decided to be sensible and relax but the legs felt fine if I'm honest. Bodyblade stuff.
Sat - 5.5hrs 24km 1000m of ascent/descent. Dropped off at the Pen-y-Gwryd, to force me to walk the six miles back to Capel later on. A snowy Snowdon was slow in parts due to walkers with no axe or crampons. Either would have been sensible. Legs felt strong after a rest day, I'm learning.
Sun - Bodyblade and beer.
Super happy with this week - in Font in November, I was really concerned at one point that I wasn't going to be able to drag the knee back to some sort of fitness/pain balance I could live with and I'm so glad to be wrong. Non of the days this week were pain free but my brain has found an algorithm to get rid of the worst and being determined will sort the shortfall. No rests or food at all on Saturday, so my general fitness has held from Switzerland and this should stand me in good stead for the Welsh 3000s in spring.
Forgot to take all my winter gear like a prat and had to make do with a walking axe that I had in the car but the Camp 4 goretex mids I used were brilliant - deep lugs for the snow and the rubber on wet rock was hugely better than anything else I've ever used, the Stealth S1 rubber was amazing. A lot better in the wet than the C4 on the Tennies etc. A bit too bendy for step kicking if I'm honest but the axe cut the odd step I needed. It was grand to be up and about in wintery conditions again, lots of big smiles.
Starting the year in a good place I think, certainly in the head zone.
Nice to see you patting yourself on the back for a good last week - and hope you've enjoyed the festivities.
STG - Tie on a rope and get falling.
MTG - 7a
LTG - 7A
BHAG - Salbit West Ridge
Mon - Rest Day
Tue - AM Bodyblade PM Drive to Wales
Wed - 4hrs Over 600m ascent. Up and over Y Garn in the snow and down Devil's Kitchen before watching Chiz have a swim in the lake. ACL was fine. Bodyblade shizzle.
Thu - 3.5hrs Over 450m of ascent. Up and around a snowy Moel Siabod, ignoring the ridge as it was busy, going around the back and then up directly to the summit via boulders etc. Came off the west side and once over the style did some running down the icy path. Only the third time I've ever really let go running down hill and it felt great - legs felt good. Sore knee later but to be expected. Took the long walk back. Bodyblade physio.
Fri - Rest day. Decided to be sensible and relax but the legs felt fine if I'm honest. Bodyblade stuff.
Sat - 5.5hrs 24km 1000m of ascent/descent. Dropped off at the Pen-y-Gwryd, to force me to walk the six miles back to Capel later on. A snowy Snowdon was slow in parts due to walkers with no axe or crampons. Either would have been sensible. Legs felt strong after a rest day, I'm learning.
Sun - Bodyblade and beer.
Super happy with this week - in Font in November, I was really concerned at one point that I wasn't going to be able to drag the knee back to some sort of fitness/pain balance I could live with and I'm so glad to be wrong. Non of the days this week were pain free but my brain has found an algorithm to get rid of the worst and being determined will sort the shortfall. No rests or food at all on Saturday, so my general fitness has held from Switzerland and this should stand me in good stead for the Welsh 3000s in spring.
Forgot to take all my winter gear like a prat and had to make do with a walking axe that I had in the car but the Camp 4 goretex mids I used were brilliant - deep lugs for the snow and the rubber on wet rock was hugely better than anything else I've ever used, the Stealth S1 rubber was amazing. A lot better in the wet than the C4 on the Tennies etc. A bit too bendy for step kicking if I'm honest but the axe cut the odd step I needed. It was grand to be up and about in wintery conditions again, lots of big smiles.
Starting the year in a good place I think, certainly in the head zone.
Post edited at 18:24
3
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy - not only for this weeks stats, but for your on going efforts to keep us all in check.
The last week of 2017 was dominated by over indulgence and lurgy. I'm feeling distinctly unfit and heavy. Less booze, fewer sugary snacks and more aerobic exercise needed in Jan to kick start the year.
Week 52
M - Nothing – though I did manage a TRX/Core session on xmas eve
T - Also nothing, but my cold was just about gone
W - Ditto - lurgy still holding on
T - Damp cave of justice; l felt distinctly unfit, though individual moves didn't feel too bad. Managed to drag myself across a few familiar 7B/+'s and re-work sections of In Heaven (lite) (f8A+)
F - Barbell complex @25kg. 4x 10 DL, 10x curl/OHP, 15x squat. An-cap hangs. 10/3/5/4 +11kg x6. Failed in hang 6 of set 5 and hang 5 of set 6 (not too bad for 2nd day on - normally the cave beats me up)
S - Nothing – looking at wedding venues and then ring shopping (no luck at either)
S - Barbell complex @25kg. 3x 10x curl/OHP, 15x squat. Max hangs session. Middle-2 + 18kg 10s x3. 4-finger drag, +38kg 10s x3. Front-2 +23kg 10s x3. Then travel to Brum, 90min hilly walking followed by way too much food, a little too much booze, and nowhere near enough sleep!
Thanks Guy - not only for this weeks stats, but for your on going efforts to keep us all in check.
The last week of 2017 was dominated by over indulgence and lurgy. I'm feeling distinctly unfit and heavy. Less booze, fewer sugary snacks and more aerobic exercise needed in Jan to kick start the year.
Week 52
M - Nothing – though I did manage a TRX/Core session on xmas eve
T - Also nothing, but my cold was just about gone
W - Ditto - lurgy still holding on
T - Damp cave of justice; l felt distinctly unfit, though individual moves didn't feel too bad. Managed to drag myself across a few familiar 7B/+'s and re-work sections of In Heaven (lite) (f8A+)
F - Barbell complex @25kg. 4x 10 DL, 10x curl/OHP, 15x squat. An-cap hangs. 10/3/5/4 +11kg x6. Failed in hang 6 of set 5 and hang 5 of set 6 (not too bad for 2nd day on - normally the cave beats me up)
S - Nothing – looking at wedding venues and then ring shopping (no luck at either)
S - Barbell complex @25kg. 3x 10x curl/OHP, 15x squat. Max hangs session. Middle-2 + 18kg 10s x3. 4-finger drag, +38kg 10s x3. Front-2 +23kg 10s x3. Then travel to Brum, 90min hilly walking followed by way too much food, a little too much booze, and nowhere near enough sleep!
Post edited at 09:57
In reply to guy127917:
Back to work unfortunately but will be doing the weekend warrior thing for a while.
Last week -
Fri It snowed heavily in the Peak so went for a quick blast up Jacob's Ladder.
Sat Drove up to Glencoe at the weekend but didn't do much.
STG
Get back into a regular training routine. The Mixed Climbing plan from Uphill Athlete stalled due to flu and I've been a bit lazy in picking it back up. B3 boots currently getting repaired so hard Winter Climbing might have to take a back seat for a while. Super cold conditions forecast for this weekend so might do a ridge or somesuch.
MTG
Some of these are pretty ambitious for this year, but...
Scottish Winter 2017/18
Fallout Corner (Winter) (VI 7)
The Hoarmaster (VI 6)
Savage Slit (Winter) (V 6)
The Guillotine (V 6)
Tholl Gate (VI 6)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Take 2018-19 Winter off from work (Dec-Feb)
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
British Trad Routes (Early 2018)
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
> planetmarshall: Good to hear you are on the up. I’ll probably be in Scotland 1-7th Jan- drop me a message if you’re around then?
Back to work unfortunately but will be doing the weekend warrior thing for a while.
Last week -
Fri It snowed heavily in the Peak so went for a quick blast up Jacob's Ladder.
Sat Drove up to Glencoe at the weekend but didn't do much.
STG
Get back into a regular training routine. The Mixed Climbing plan from Uphill Athlete stalled due to flu and I've been a bit lazy in picking it back up. B3 boots currently getting repaired so hard Winter Climbing might have to take a back seat for a while. Super cold conditions forecast for this weekend so might do a ridge or somesuch.
MTG
Some of these are pretty ambitious for this year, but...
Scottish Winter 2017/18
Fallout Corner (Winter) (VI 7)
The Hoarmaster (VI 6)
Savage Slit (Winter) (V 6)
The Guillotine (V 6)
Tholl Gate (VI 6)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Take 2018-19 Winter off from work (Dec-Feb)
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
British Trad Routes (Early 2018)
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks, I hope so too!
Quick run down from me as I'm on my phone, last week consisted mostly of me still being full of cold and a few punchy climbing sessions to keep things ticking over. After having a real improvement in the elbow at the start of the week, it seemed to settle back to its usual slightly painful self after another session at the Project. I probably pushed it too hard as usual.
S: and We flew out on the 30th and the elbow was kind of OK but definitely not miraculously healed.
It was an early flight so we went straight out to touch some rock, just a few 6's at Can Llepafils up above laboratory, decent little crag with some typical hard starts.
S: We went to Espadelles extension on new years, a fantastic bit of rock without a hint of polish and some crackers in the 7's and 8's. I was still feeling a bit tentative with the elbow so I had a play on El Último Poeta (7b) which felt hard as nails on the first go but felt a lot more like it should on the second go when I got the tick.
Despite there being draws in a great looking 7c and 8a, I decided to stop there, elbow intact.
New years was spent at a friends house out in the sticks with wine, beef pie and a game of cards, we just about made it to midnight!
More to come in next weeks update, safe to say I've yet to have any big ticks but I have at least been able to try hard which is all I could ask for.
I need to think up some goals for the year too...
> Dandan82: Hope you have a good trip and don’t do yourself any damage!
Thanks, I hope so too!
Quick run down from me as I'm on my phone, last week consisted mostly of me still being full of cold and a few punchy climbing sessions to keep things ticking over. After having a real improvement in the elbow at the start of the week, it seemed to settle back to its usual slightly painful self after another session at the Project. I probably pushed it too hard as usual.
S: and We flew out on the 30th and the elbow was kind of OK but definitely not miraculously healed.
It was an early flight so we went straight out to touch some rock, just a few 6's at Can Llepafils up above laboratory, decent little crag with some typical hard starts.
S: We went to Espadelles extension on new years, a fantastic bit of rock without a hint of polish and some crackers in the 7's and 8's. I was still feeling a bit tentative with the elbow so I had a play on El Último Poeta (7b) which felt hard as nails on the first go but felt a lot more like it should on the second go when I got the tick.
Despite there being draws in a great looking 7c and 8a, I decided to stop there, elbow intact.
New years was spent at a friends house out in the sticks with wine, beef pie and a game of cards, we just about made it to midnight!
More to come in next weeks update, safe to say I've yet to have any big ticks but I have at least been able to try hard which is all I could ask for.
I need to think up some goals for the year too...
In reply to guy127917:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 3lbs
M - T - Too much food and booze...
F - 2 mile run
S - S - Rest
It was nice to get out and go for a run on Friday. The leisure center was mostly shut so no chance to get to the wall. I did get out for a walk most days and on some days twice. But mostly just pushing the pram round the park, so nothing too strenuous.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 3lbs
M - T - Too much food and booze...
F - 2 mile run
S - S - Rest
It was nice to get out and go for a run on Friday. The leisure center was mostly shut so no chance to get to the wall. I did get out for a walk most days and on some days twice. But mostly just pushing the pram round the park, so nothing too strenuous.
In reply to guy127917:
Yes! I need to decide which alpine trips to go on this year, continue working on my aerobic endurance and do some hard, wave bouldering. Also, I think 2018 is most definitely the year of the front lever and when that is complete I am going to treat myself to a massive gold chain with the words "Front Lever Crew" hanging from it and maybe also a tattoo.
Monday - Saturday I didn't do any training. Decided to stop calling it rest now as I feel like that implies I am resting from something! I feel totally recovered now so time to get back on it slowly.
Sunday: Bouldering!! Felt really good to get out and do a little climbing. I have only been a few times since my trip to Costa Blanca due to illness but I felt strong and it made me feel very happy.
BHG:
climb Nanga Parbat or similar (laughing face)
Lead 8a sport
LTG:
To climb a big wall - El Cap
The Matterhorny
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead E1
MTG for 2018:
Lead 30 x VS
Climb 5 routes from the Aiguilles Rouges book
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
To follow an 8 week nutrition plan to ensure I eat the right things to repair my body after workouts. To fuel my body in order to become more efficient, energetic and fitter without eating in excess
To complete the TFTNA training plan starting with the 8 week transition phase
Goals for Australia in September tbc
STG:
To start the transition phase of the TFTNA plan (again) - keeping a record of progress and assessing it on a weekly basis
To work a 7a on lead at least once a week when i have a partner
To flash 2 6c/6c+ indoor routes for every reset
> Jen: OK 2018, time to crush!
Yes! I need to decide which alpine trips to go on this year, continue working on my aerobic endurance and do some hard, wave bouldering. Also, I think 2018 is most definitely the year of the front lever and when that is complete I am going to treat myself to a massive gold chain with the words "Front Lever Crew" hanging from it and maybe also a tattoo.
Monday - Saturday I didn't do any training. Decided to stop calling it rest now as I feel like that implies I am resting from something! I feel totally recovered now so time to get back on it slowly.
Sunday: Bouldering!! Felt really good to get out and do a little climbing. I have only been a few times since my trip to Costa Blanca due to illness but I felt strong and it made me feel very happy.
BHG:
climb Nanga Parbat or similar (laughing face)
Lead 8a sport
LTG:
To climb a big wall - El Cap
The Matterhorny
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead E1
MTG for 2018:
Lead 30 x VS
Climb 5 routes from the Aiguilles Rouges book
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
To follow an 8 week nutrition plan to ensure I eat the right things to repair my body after workouts. To fuel my body in order to become more efficient, energetic and fitter without eating in excess
To complete the TFTNA training plan starting with the 8 week transition phase
Goals for Australia in September tbc
STG:
To start the transition phase of the TFTNA plan (again) - keeping a record of progress and assessing it on a weekly basis
To work a 7a on lead at least once a week when i have a partner
To flash 2 6c/6c+ indoor routes for every reset
2
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
Hope everyone had a good new year.
STG - Last week
1 x climb - Tick
1 x Run - 1 hour 15 min - Fail only 50 min
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace - Tick
1x run - 45 min - Tick
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions - Tick
1x TFTNA Conditioning - Tick managed 2
Stretch more - Tick but still no where near what I should be doing
STG - Next week
2 x climb
1 x Run - 1 hour 20 min
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace
1x run - 45 min
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
2 x TFTNA Conditioning
Stretch more
MTG - Next march
2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3
Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism - Increase all by 10%
Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c
LTG- August 2018
Mount Blanc
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - AM- Run 3.3km, Pace 5:49 PKM, Elevation gain 122m - Zone 3/4
PM - 1 round TFTNA condtioning
T- ARC on the auto belay 20 min on 10 min off x3
F - Run - 7km, Pace 7:06 PKM Elevation gain 198 m - Zone 1
S - Rest
S - AM -1 round TFTNA Conditioning
PM - Run 7.13km, Pace 6:41PKM, Elevation Gain 168 meters
Lee
Thanks Guy
Hope everyone had a good new year.
STG - Last week
1 x climb - Tick
1 x Run - 1 hour 15 min - Fail only 50 min
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace - Tick
1x run - 45 min - Tick
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions - Tick
1x TFTNA Conditioning - Tick managed 2
Stretch more - Tick but still no where near what I should be doing
STG - Next week
2 x climb
1 x Run - 1 hour 20 min
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace
1x run - 45 min
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
2 x TFTNA Conditioning
Stretch more
MTG - Next march
2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3
Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism - Increase all by 10%
Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c
LTG- August 2018
Mount Blanc
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - AM- Run 3.3km, Pace 5:49 PKM, Elevation gain 122m - Zone 3/4
PM - 1 round TFTNA condtioning
T- ARC on the auto belay 20 min on 10 min off x3
F - Run - 7km, Pace 7:06 PKM Elevation gain 198 m - Zone 1
S - Rest
S - AM -1 round TFTNA Conditioning
PM - Run 7.13km, Pace 6:41PKM, Elevation Gain 168 meters
Lee
Thanks Guy,
Just a short one as on phone...
Honestly, I think that it’s because last time I worked it I had really good super-detailed beta and this time I’d forgotten most of it, so I was closer to ‘onsight’ style than revisiting a project.
GOALS: in a state of flux... see next week.
Last week: kind of went off track as I expected to be going up to Scotland on the 27th, then it got delayed a day, then another day, so my ‘pre-trip rest days’ kind of lasted all week!
M: nowt
T: shoulder rehab
W: nowt
T: shoulder rehab
F: nowt
S: Climbed Rampant in Sneachda. Felt pretty easy. Chilled walk in/out.
S: Crap weather. Rest
Just a short one as on phone...
> Tom Green: From your drytooling day summary last week- what stopped you on that route? You say you went backwards- do you think that is because of something lacking from your training or like mental prep etc?
Honestly, I think that it’s because last time I worked it I had really good super-detailed beta and this time I’d forgotten most of it, so I was closer to ‘onsight’ style than revisiting a project.
GOALS: in a state of flux... see next week.
Last week: kind of went off track as I expected to be going up to Scotland on the 27th, then it got delayed a day, then another day, so my ‘pre-trip rest days’ kind of lasted all week!
M: nowt
T: shoulder rehab
W: nowt
T: shoulder rehab
F: nowt
S: Climbed Rampant in Sneachda. Felt pretty easy. Chilled walk in/out.
S: Crap weather. Rest
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
I'm really looking forward to getting out on placement. The only downside is that I will be in full time which means no chance to work and earn money for the next 5 mths. Not great. Not sure how it will pan out time wise for climbing and general life stuff. Just have to wait and see.
A good week in which I got to BUK 3 times - I think. One more go on the comp problems in which I made progress (more than I thought) on a couple of problems but no additional points gained. I got a new V6 on the second visit and two new ones on the new set on the 3rd. There's another set up for next time but I ran out of time/energy. V6 seems about right atm as they're pushing me enough to work hard but they're doable.
Had a flare up in my biceps which I think is due to starting exercises for my shoulders. It's just moved down the chain a bit. Also got a tweaky A2 on my left ring finger (old injury) and my left knee (old ACL) is also feeling a bit sore. These all come and go with the right care so just got to make sure I do that.
Kids and back to uni may mean a few enforced rest days so possibly not a bad thing. I'm also increasing my calorie intake having listened to some nutrition podcasts where they appear to talk basic sense. Feels a bit weird atm and i'm struggling to eat enough. Worried i'll end up lardy but i'll stick with it and see how it goes for me.
Cheers Guy.
I'm really looking forward to getting out on placement. The only downside is that I will be in full time which means no chance to work and earn money for the next 5 mths. Not great. Not sure how it will pan out time wise for climbing and general life stuff. Just have to wait and see.
A good week in which I got to BUK 3 times - I think. One more go on the comp problems in which I made progress (more than I thought) on a couple of problems but no additional points gained. I got a new V6 on the second visit and two new ones on the new set on the 3rd. There's another set up for next time but I ran out of time/energy. V6 seems about right atm as they're pushing me enough to work hard but they're doable.
Had a flare up in my biceps which I think is due to starting exercises for my shoulders. It's just moved down the chain a bit. Also got a tweaky A2 on my left ring finger (old injury) and my left knee (old ACL) is also feeling a bit sore. These all come and go with the right care so just got to make sure I do that.
Kids and back to uni may mean a few enforced rest days so possibly not a bad thing. I'm also increasing my calorie intake having listened to some nutrition podcasts where they appear to talk basic sense. Feels a bit weird atm and i'm struggling to eat enough. Worried i'll end up lardy but i'll stick with it and see how it goes for me.
In reply to guy127917:
Happy New Year!
Good week. 3 ARC sessions & a bouldering session at The Works.
Bought some gym rings....
This week will be my last of no structure. Just need to recover from new years eve now!!!
Happy New Year!
Good week. 3 ARC sessions & a bouldering session at The Works.
Bought some gym rings....
This week will be my last of no structure. Just need to recover from new years eve now!!!
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. All individual holds with names - largely LOtR and Star Wars names...
M - low key Christmas almost getting Gorilla Warfare. Powered out on top out on my flash attempt. Maybe January...
T - fly to Austria. Short piste ski tour
W - ski tour Joel
T - ski tour Marienkopf (plus boulder at Wörgl wall)
F - ski tour Ludestein
S - ski tour Feldalphorn (plus 6x2 session on 16m wall)
S - ski tour Gern
Tricky avalanche conditions and snowpack kept us below 2000m and mostly in the trees, so no mountaineering action. Some great snow and lovely views when there was visibility but will have to go back for bigger summits - maybe spring...
Cheers Guy. All individual holds with names - largely LOtR and Star Wars names...
M - low key Christmas almost getting Gorilla Warfare. Powered out on top out on my flash attempt. Maybe January...
T - fly to Austria. Short piste ski tour
W - ski tour Joel
T - ski tour Marienkopf (plus boulder at Wörgl wall)
F - ski tour Ludestein
S - ski tour Feldalphorn (plus 6x2 session on 16m wall)
S - ski tour Gern
Tricky avalanche conditions and snowpack kept us below 2000m and mostly in the trees, so no mountaineering action. Some great snow and lovely views when there was visibility but will have to go back for bigger summits - maybe spring...
In reply to Just Tintin:
Good going flashing that far - you got to the finishing crimps?
Do Early Doors too when you go back, it's not much harder with good beta.
> Cheers Guy. All individual holds with names - largely LOtR and Star Wars names...
> M - low key Christmas almost getting Gorilla Warfare. Powered out on top out on my flash attempt. Maybe January...
Good going flashing that far - you got to the finishing crimps?
Do Early Doors too when you go back, it's not much harder with good beta.
In reply to guy127917:
Training plan week 4 summary:
Aerobic Volume: 3.3
Running Distance: 16.20
Strength Sessions: 1
Climbing Sessions: 0
Xmas week didn't go to plan- started well with aerobic sessions on xmas day and boxing day, but was bed-ridden with a virus by Thursday. Next (this) week my plan is to be in Scotland for a few days winter climbing, so no scheduled sessions.
Training plan week 4 summary:
Aerobic Volume: 3.3
Running Distance: 16.20
Strength Sessions: 1
Climbing Sessions: 0
Xmas week didn't go to plan- started well with aerobic sessions on xmas day and boxing day, but was bed-ridden with a virus by Thursday. Next (this) week my plan is to be in Scotland for a few days winter climbing, so no scheduled sessions.
In reply to Si dH:
Sometimes I’m weirdly good at reading things first time as I’m properly concentrating. Then if I don’t get it I get rubbish very quickly as I try to remember what worked last time, second guess myself wrong and get tired and frustrated - hence not great at red pointing. Early Doors definitely on my list as is Original. Though I’m sure it helped to have the whole of curbar field to ourselves without the usual circus.
Will have a go tomorrow I hope though after a week of ski touring and lurgy dodging I’m definitely weaker than before Christmas. No woody for me this week.
Sometimes I’m weirdly good at reading things first time as I’m properly concentrating. Then if I don’t get it I get rubbish very quickly as I try to remember what worked last time, second guess myself wrong and get tired and frustrated - hence not great at red pointing. Early Doors definitely on my list as is Original. Though I’m sure it helped to have the whole of curbar field to ourselves without the usual circus.
Will have a go tomorrow I hope though after a week of ski touring and lurgy dodging I’m definitely weaker than before Christmas. No woody for me this week.
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