/ Fitclub 564
> No it wasn't here, but I think in general it's good to keep big goals to yourself too. Very often naysayers feel the need to chime in to ruin your excitement, and there's very little benefit from telling other people about them anyway. Better to just keep my head down and work toward them on my own.
I'm glad it wasn't us.
I think there can be some benefit, in that it's fairly commonly assumed that telling people your goals acts as an extra incentive to achieve them and repeating/reminding yourself of the big aim can help maintain focus, but you've got to balance that with your past experiences. If the goals are stated within FC it's unusual for that many "outsiders" to pass comment on them from my memory, and we don't tend to do so ourselves (plenty of other people, myself included, have BHAGs which are miles from their current level, but that's kind of the point, it's about inspiration).
I've had "9a by my 40th birthday" as a BHAG goal all year and nobody has (openly) laughed at the ridiculousness of that yet!
I think putting big goals, or any goals, in the open gives some measure of accountability, creating motivation to achieve them, rather than keeping them under wraps and just letting them slip away quietly if things don't work out.
As much as I have bashed Jerry's new book, his advice on goals seems pretty solid - write them down. Whether that is here on a forum or at home on a piece of paper stuck on your fridge, it is a way to give the goal some substance so that you can't just ignore it. Sure, don't write it on here if you aren't comfortable with that, but make sure you do write it somewhere.
EDIT: Or, you know, what AJM said...
I have onyl owned up to my "8a in three (oh shit) years" to realtive strangers in online forums. I don't think any of my regular climbing partners would believe. Tbh I don't know if I actally do either. But The Way Is The Goal (tm) & all that - as long as it gives me an incentive not to be content to remain in the low 7's, then it's working.
Happy New Year Fit Club!
Guy -a triple thank you this week: the usual thanks for Fit Club, an additional thanks for a lot of good advice chatting in Scotland last week and extra thanks for the catch on Yukon Jack!
My first post of the year is going to be a bit of a behemoth, so apologies in advance! In fact I think I might split it in two... Firstly, overall thoughts heading in to a new year.
The turn of the year has been a good point of focus and has produced the following thoughts:
1. My previous training wasn't really training -I didn't know enough about the theory to even start putting a structured plan together. I still know very little, but hopefully enough to get more out of my training time.
2. Being an 'all-rounder' is dangerously close to 'being good at nothing'. Whilst it is perfectly possible to improve and maintain across different climbing disciplines (especially with my very low starting point!) it may be more productive to make some 'sacrifices' or postpone some goals to allow smarter training.
3. My life at the moment is giving me the opportunity to explore more 'mountain-based' goals, but this may well change over the next couple of years to a lifestyle where more 'cragging-based' goals are a better choice. I am never likely to have more training time than the next twelve months.
4. Although my goals for the next twelve months will fit in to the STG/MTG/LTG format (being both linear and progressive) it also makes sense (i.e. helps me!) to look at them as a bit of a year plan.
So, feel free to skip if bored as this is mostly for my own benefit!
Summary: Get used to training, with some good trips to maintain motivation.
TFTNA transition period (and in to base period)
Focus on NEVER dropping a climbing session to avoid gaining fitness at expense of skill
Build prehab exercises in to DAILY routine
Five black runs
Multiple ED routes
Alpine combine parameters increase by 10%
Summary: Build on general strength training and fitness for mountains but with some sport and bouldering trips to keep motivation high.
TFTNA base (continue max strength and start musc enduro)
Focus on not missing climbing sessions
Continue shoulder prehab and WATCH ELBOWS in lofoten.
E1 on multiple rock types
Boulder f6B in Lofoten
Sandstone trail in sub-10 hours
Norway challenge of 1000m vert ascent with 15kg bag in <4h
Alpine combine parameters improved by further 10%
Summary: Completing muscular endurance programme and tapering prior to Kyrgyzstan trip
Focus on maintaining mountaineering skills
Have discipline for proper break from climbing after Kyrgyzstan
El Cap Nose day (880m in sub 24h)
New routes on unclimbed peaks in Kyrgyzstan.
Break from climbing... Shift focus to sport climbing? Redpoint F6c
Start transition training for winter 18-19.
Post trip alpine combine
Summary: Restart training, using past year as a springboard for best ever winter season!
Focus on Drytooling for climbing sessions
Sorry... that's probably a dull read! Now for a more normal Fit Club post...
Your mention of Kyrgyzstan has reminded me to recommend Tommy Caldwell's book to everyone. Recently finished it, really good. It's an autobiography, not a training book, but he writes a lot about how his upbringing and mental approach affects his climbing and how he justifies his activities to himself alongside parenting. It's really interesting and much better written than some climbing books.
PS. Tom if planning prehab every day, be careful what you do before a climbing session. There is no point building strength in those small stabilisation muscles we need to prevent chronic injury, if they are already tired before you start training and relying on them.
> Tom if planning prehab every day, be careful what you do before a climbing session. There is no point building strength in those small stabilisation muscles we need to prevent chronic injury, if they are already tired before you start training and relying on them.
Good point. Thanks Si
Montserrat as in Spain near Barcelona? What have you got your eye on?
Cheers Guy. This is the site that has the podcast link to it.
They are long rambling podcasts but I was doing a lot of driving that week.....
So far I reckon it makes sense and i'm feeling good. I've stayed away from the scales as I want to see if I feel performance benefits not weight change. It's only a bit into it but i'd say yes I feel stronger/more recovered on the bike. However two days a week I have to eat nearly 4000cals and that's surprisingly hard to do healthily. I just can't fit that amount in.
So last week ended up being a quiet one climbing wise. I did my rehab and shoulders/elbows are feeling great. I have had a climbing session since and no reaction at all. A real novelty to have no pain during/after climbing. I could get used to that!
It's coming up to exam time so climbing will be a bit curtailed this week and next but then I've got a nice week off before placement. So i'll keep plodding along but I need to have some good efforts on the BUK and Depot winter leagues.
OK. Second and more normal Fit Club post...
Last Week Revue:
M: Walked in to Sneachda. Bailed off route due to poor conditions. Walked out.
T: Walked in to Sneachda. Mirror Direct. Walked out.
W: Walked in to Sneachda. Fell off Yukon Jack. Got back on and climbed past fall. Felt desparate. Bailed.
T: Walked in to Cha-No. Felt crap: coughing/retching. Jenga Buttress. Walked out (sorry for the short day Guy).
S: Travel to Oslo. Shoulder rehab (bands).
Next Week Plan: W1 of TNFTNA
One day skiing
One General Strength session
Two Zone 1 sessions
One Zone 2/3 session
Two days winter climbing
Scottish VI (dropped from previous goal of VII due to not climbing well so far!)
Ski 5+ Black Runs
3 Routes ED1+ (dropped from previous goal of 5 as had to reduce trip length)
E1 on multiple rock types
6B in Lofoten
Sandstone trail in <10h
'El Cap Nose Day' 880m climbing in <24h (probs N Wales)
New routes in Kygyzstan
Droites N Face -Colton Brookes
Monty's Axe at Lower Montcliffe
Le Couer at L'Elephant
Actually Alan, I think it's perfectly possible for you if you can overcome the head stuff but you're aware of that and halfway there now. Not getting sidetracked by trad, alpine etc can only help.
What Andy said really - BHAG is meant to be a dream achievement and I've probably set mine too low, seeing as I'm heading there this summer to go for it. If it doesn't work for you, that's fair enough but I know I find the BHAGs inspiring.
Yep. That Montserrat.
I'm just there for a day or two (tacked on to the front or back of a business trip) and with a fairly inexperienced partner so will probably do one of the Gorros classic... Ratanplan or something. Unless you've any top tips for easy (5a or less) but awesome routes?
The route we did at Gorros was a little harder and slightly damp low down but I suspect the easy routes there are very good. The only thing we did in that grade range was on the arbret, at the north east end of the area (agulles?), which I'd recommend. Slightly harder to navigate round there though as more trees at the bases.
Unfortunately I spent a good few years of my life trying to get as big as possible and still have the appetite to match so can’t say I feel you there. 4000kcals isn’t too much to eat, but it is quite a lot to prep I agree. Do you go in for protein shakes etc? Protein powder + banana + nut butter is pretty easy and calorie dense!!
Thanks though, will check that podcast out, long and detailed/rambling is good for the long slow workouts!
Will anyone freak out if I use bold text in the top post next week?
What are you doing on the days you have to eat 4000 kcals - is that lots of cycling and gym work? Do they balance with low intake on rest days or is it generally high?
Glad to hear it wasn't in here, but sorry to hear about conduct elsewhere on the forums. The mentality of some people on ukc amazes me (I mean, no more than other places on the internet, but still).
I don't think there is a goal too big and hairy for fitclub, mainly because we can see how hard people work every week
A couple of different sources put me at requiring 2750 calories a day without exercise, so that’s been my baseline. Cycle commute a couple of times a week = 1000 cals a time. That’s from garmin with all my stats and a hrm.
A while ago I lost a couple of kilos by dropping down to 2000cal a day. However the weight loss stopped. So I wasn’t going to increase cals was I as that would put weight on? I think it was the classic situation where I was fighting my own body as it tried to hang onto my weight.
Whether or not I lose weight or put it on 2 weeks (ish) in I’m feeling great on the bike. Two fastest commutes ever done today.
It turns out you may not be able to improve performance if you don’t fuel properly. Who’d have thought it?
. > A while ago I lost a couple of kilos by dropping down to 2000cal a day. However the weight loss stopped. So I wasn’t going to increase cals was I as that would put weight on? I think it was the classic situation where I was fighting my own body as it tried to hang onto my weight.
Anecdotally your experience on that occasion is similar to mine whereby a particular kcal/day level will lead to me gaining a particular rough weight and plateauing at that new weight. If I increase intake again then I plateau back at the same weight I started (after a period of time.) Obviously there can be short term peaks caused by things like Christmas.
Ultimately I disagree with your conclusions but I don't think that's important because the best balance to improve climbing undoubtedly depends on the individual (what you do, how you need to improve, and your own body). Personally I've found that after a few months, 1800kcal/day leads to me weighing about 11 st, 2000 kcal/day to about 11 st 4 and roughly 2500-2700 kcal/day (at this level it's just 'eat whatever I like') to about 12 st. I've never tried eating more than that, averaged over a reasonable period of time. I climb a lot better and get injured less (especially fingers) when I am at my lightest. I also feel better in myself. However it does mean not really drinking much alcohol at all to hit 1800 kcal, and always monitoring food intake, so I go through cycles of giving myself a break. (The last 14-15 months has been a 'break' that is now ending...)
I obviously add Kcal to each of the above averages on training/climbing days. I find on a day out bouldering in winter I need around 1000 extra, ROM, but I'm not very scientific about it. Doing things like cycling or running would obviously change the balance substantially. I was intrigued by the 4000 number as it seemed so high but it makes sense in that context.
Edit: I meant to say, there are some interesting posts on that website, thanks for the link. I always eat a lot of protein even at relatively total kcal/day, but I've never gone to the effort of spacing it out every few hours systematically. I'm tempted to try but it seems awkward without taking protein drink or something to work.
I’m just less than two weeks in so very early days. I may end up at the same conclusion as you in 2 mths if I’m 5kgs heavier!
Im finding the protein easy enough - but I do use a whey protein in my morning porridge to help.
What I do know is that I feel like I have more energy. This year I have more bike orientated goals so that’s important. My climbing goals are boulder based not route based and historically a little bit of extra weight hasn’t affected boulder grades. The opposite in fact, to a degree.
Quick Update for me
M - Rest
T - Run 11.1km, 7:46 per km, 351m accent
W - Indoor climbing no structure just climbing routes
T - Rest
F - 3 rounds TFTNA conditioning
S - Run 4.7km, 5:10 per km, 190m accent
S - Rest
Expedition Kit Hire offer high quality clothing (inc B2/B3 boots) and equipment for any type of expedition, e.g. from Polar,... Read more
Overlooking the village of Tremadog, the sun-blessed cliffs of Craig Pant Ifan and Bwlch y Moch offer over 300 routes ranging... Read more
The seventh annual Arc'teryx Alpine Academy, which ran from Thursday the 5th to Sunday the 8th, drew to a close last week in... Read more
Emma Twyford has made the 5th ascent of Steve Mayer's E8 6c on in the Llanberis Pass. The route features sustained technical... Read more