UKC

/ Fitclub 564

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guy127917 - on 07 Jan 2018
Afternoon all, the first week of 2018 to report on… surely you all started the year with brand new enthusiasm and resolve? If you are reading this but have never posted or have been taking a break... what better time to get started than the end of the first week of January?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=676592

hms: Thanks for that- will be interested to hear how you think they are working for you in a few weeks.
TheFasting: How do you feel the hang boarding is going- feeling gains?
Tyler: If my memory serves, before xmas you were doing foot off bouldering workouts fairly regularly- do you think you would have been able to 1-3-5 at that point? I’d be surprised if power dropped off so quickly?
AJM: Has reading OG yielded any interesting insights for you?
MFB: Welcome along! (apologies, I meant to reply to you during the week to say hi but forgot). Do you have any E1’s in mind, or any particular style etc?
wuzel: Looks like you are doing a good mixture of climbing/bouldering etc. Do you have a plan or do you just try and hit all the major systems?
The sheep: I’m looking forward to hearing how you get on with your goals for the year. Are you changing the training approach in the run up to planned events, or are you just going to keep clocking up the miles?
mrchewy: Running downhill on ice with a dicky ACL… brave man!! Happy to hear it didn’t end in tears.
AlanLittle: Agree- 100 hours aerobic/year seems pretty decent for keeping yourself generally fit and well.
Laura Morrissey: Well done on getting your cycle goal done. How’s the pull-ups going- 5 by the end of the month would be very impressive
Si dH: 6am fingerboarding… good hustle. What do you do for a warmup for a hard session early in the morning?
Ally Smith: Sometimes going a bit overboard gives you a good spurt of motivation. I was assuming however your ceremony would be in the Cave of Justice since you seem to love it so much.
planetmarshall: Good effort to get up to Glencoe for the weekends, especially if you manage to get your training hours in as well!
Dandan82: We look forward to hearing how the rest of the trip went…
mattrm: Tell us a little of your 2018 trip plans?
Jen-a-Thor: Nanga Parbat… surely with your fitness level you should be new routing on K2?
Climbthatpitch: Nice work getting nearly all your STG’s for the week ticked, thats what we like to see!
Tom Green: How have your goal oriented thinking progressed?
biscuit: Are there any nutrition podcasts you would recommend?
leon: Look forward to seeing what structure looks like for you.
Just Tintin: I hope you were touring with a sledge for max Denali training effect?
Powderpuff: How was the first week of 2018 for you?
guy127917: Don’t get ill- don’t get as close to other humans in future.

Bones [:B - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Jen-a-Thor: Nanga Parbat… surely with your fitness level you should be new routing on K2?

Is that more macho?? Then that, I choose that.

Climbed a bit this week and did lots of walking - training starts again tomorrow

BHG:
climb Nanga Parbat or the hardest route on K2 (serious face)
Lead 8a sport

LTG:
To climb a big wall - El Cap
The Matterhorny
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead E1

MTG:
Lead 30 x VS trad routes
Lead 5 HVS trad routes
Climb 5 routes from the Aiguilles Rouges book
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
Run a trail half marathon
To complete the TFTNA training plan starting with the 8 week transition phase - started this again due to illness
Goals for Australia in September but I have found a couple of routes in the Mt Coolum area I would like to do: Beer, Boobs and Jerky and Crazy Horny

STG:
To start the transition phase of the TFTNA plan (again) - keeping a record of progress and assessing it on a weekly basis
To work a 7a on lead once a week when I have a partner
To flash 2 6c/6c+ indoor routes for every reset
To plan my week every Sunday
hms - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

yet another busy week, including trying to get a head start on next week as family stuff will reduce how much I'll be able to do then. All a bit hazy now as to what I did when, so this may not be totally accurate!

M - FB continous hangs and 7/3/6/1 x10 with 3kg assist aerocap.
T - cycle commute. FB pockets. OHP and bicep curls at +9kg
W - cycle commute. Core.
T - cycle commute and day from hell. Squeezed in TCA session in the evening - ancap triples on lattice resin dishes, then min on/min off on lattice vanilla x10.
F - rest, rehab, theraband, TRX, pressups etc.
S - did 2 of next weeks FB sessions back to back, which meant a lot of time dangling off a thin bit of wood. 10/3/5/4 x6 at BW first, then pocket combos. Back 2 is still a total joke and I'm tempted to leave it out as a waste of time!
S - UCR for a fun birthday indoor off-plan bimble, Highlight was onsight of comp route 11 which is hard 7a. Tried new cave circuits but the 6b and 7a both have really long cross-over moves, when just going for it doesn't work. Have customised to match and shove further rather than risk the shoulders.
Powderpuff on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Ive had a decent first week of 2018 tah Guy.
I hope you all had a good Christmas and new year!

Tuesday
Went to the wall and climbed 5 of the v3-5 circuit.
Also did 2 sets of
20 push ups
20 sit ups
10 leg raises
10 eccentric wrist curls.

Thursday
Max hangs at home
4 hangs half crimped 7-10 secs
4 hangs 3 finger open 7-10 secs

Friday
Climbed at the wall again.
Chalked up 7 of the v3-5 circuit this time.
3 sets of the same exercises from Tuesday.

Felt very tried over the weekend as I'm so out of shape.
I need to pull harder on the fingerboard , but I'm not up to speed yet so no surprise there.
guy127917 - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

This week was set aside as a 'practice' week rather than 'training'. I was hoping to do 4 or 5 days of mixed climbing but didn't have a partner on the Friday so decided to bail early. I had an enjoyable few days climbing with Tom, and absorbed a good few things from him including new psyche for winter alpine routes and plenty of goal related things to think about.

Monday: 10 hour drive to Aviemore
Tuesday: Walk in/out of Sneachda Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4) Felt pretty awful coming back from illness.
Wednesday: Walk in to Sneachda, back via the top Opening Break (IV 5)
Thursday: Walk in/out of Sron Cha No for Jenga Buttress (III 4)
Did 8 of the 10 hours of driving home, probably too much- gave myself a neck strain and felt pretty awful!
Friday: Finished drive home and rest
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Long bouldering session- there are some good problems at the Castle currently.

In my plan I had this next week down as a low volume recovery week, but I don't think I need it because of lowish volume this week (week 5). Because I was ill in week 4 and didn't complete the hours after the first increase, I'm going to go back to my week 3 volume for a week before progressing to the hours that I didn't complete in week 4. This is all still transition. (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Bmz6xUUwBRBpoUsn_JYvkkPLr7nAufpW5S53V8Wgrq8/edit?usp=sharing for those interested)

Training plan week 6 plan:
Aerobic Volume: 6.0
Strength Sessions: 2
Climbing Sessions: 2.0
wurzelinzummerset on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:
> wuzel: Looks like you are doing a good mixture of climbing/bouldering etc. Do you have a plan or do you just try and hit all the major systems?

I try and do a bit of everything, although maybe I need to do more for endurance at some point for outside climbing as indoors I rarely get massively pumped on routes it's usually a case of power loss in the fingers that lets me down.

STG: 7a indoors
MTG: 7a+ outdoors
LTG: 7b anywhere

Session 01: Warmup 20 mins autobelays. Campus big rungs matching 0,2,4,6,8 x2 sets. Medium rungs not matching 0,1,2,3,4. 20 mins fingerboard (because bouldering being reset). 3 routes 6a to 6b+. 2 quick goes on the start of the LH black on big wall sorting the hard move.

Session 02: 15mins warmup autobelays. 4 routes 6a to 6b+. 2 attempts on the 7a yellow getting very close to finish on one run. Rest of session working the two adjacent blacks (7a ish). LH is actually a lot easier than RH one.

Session 03: 15mins warmup autobelays. Campus big rungs matching 0,2,4,6 x 2 sets. Boulder cave 40mins on the new mid-grade problems. Autobelay up the 6a down the easy one continuous for 7ish repeats.

Session 04: Outdoors. Worked a softish 7a. Got all the moves so none feel too bad. Had a redpoint run on it and failed -- had got too cold waiting for others on it, and it was very cold in the wind.

Also 4km run plus pressups and situps.
Post edited at 19:39
Cyan - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hi Guy, thanks for doing the thread and apologies for absence last week - I bouldered once or twice but generally was pretty lazy.

Happy 2018 fitclub!!

Mon: Sleeeeeeping.
Tues: Wall. Boulder, can't remember what I did so prob not noteworthy.
Wedns: Ill. Sniffles and a thumping headache.
Thurs: Ill.
Fri: Wall. Surprisingly productive, lots done including a jumpy V5 I've been trying for ages. Yoga class.
Sat: Wall. Good boulder. Some deadlifts, focused on learning good form.
Sun: Wall. Tired!! Easy aerocap (3 mins on, 30 secs off x4, 2 sets).
AJM - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Has reading OG yielded any interesting insights for you?

Lots of thoughts as to things to do - as far as insights go, a reminder of things I probably knew - Lsits are something I try to ignore because I have poor flexibility, and I’m probably a few levels higher on the pull than the push exercises as most climbers likely are. It’ll be difficult making serious progression on those exercises on a session or so a week, given it’s a book aimed at primarily training for body weight stuff all the training sessions are based on far more. I’ve chosen some things to focus on for now, and might prioritise it a bit more next winter.

I’ve been trying to do ukb sharkathon this week, so 30minutes of something each day. I’m not sure if it’s been 30 minutes but I’ve done something each day which feels like a good habit after so long not doing very much of anything.

Monday - at in laws house. Random pushups, sit-ups, dips etc
Tuesday - drove home, work pm. Again, random pushups, sit-ups, planks etc
Wednesday - I forget detail, probably more of the same, likely some stretching too
Thursday - fingerboard. Fingers felt a bit creaky, so it wasn’t a terribly good session, feeling a bit grumbly and unstable in 2-finger pockets
Friday - weighted pull-ups (bw+10), 3 sets of 5, plus other stuff
Saturday - light, stretching
Sunday - glorious sunshine so outside. Cold wind but I thought a low swell forecast, sun, and a howling north easterly straight onto Force Majeure would make the hoods grippy like Velcro as long as I didn’t freeze to death. First sight of the Bill from the road down from Southwell and I could see white horses, then I got nearer and saw spray over the top of some of the dws sectors. Parked up with diminishing hopes, and found the platform under FM awash and the spray making it onto the cliff top (video on Instagram story). High tide and far more swell than the forecast might have suggested. Went round to the other side just in case and the ledges there were awash too. So I went back to the cuttings, took a little pad, and went for an explore. Main objective was to check out Snowflakes, Sit-start (f7A+) which looked really good in the guide - found this, looks good, made reasonable progress on the stand (6C+), first few moves done maybe one tough move left where the arête changes angle, but would need more of my pads and maybe a spotter too. I looked at the sit, not entirely firing all cylinders because of the cold but it looks hard, guess it has to be to squeeze 2 extra grades out of two moves. Went for a wander further after that - Ajare (f6C) and the other problems on that block look worth a go, Hogijiberry looks hard and the indirect to its right a little confusing as to whether the foot block is in - hard/awkward without but probably not 7A with?

Not too bad a week. Very unstructured mind you but some stuff done. Been reasonably healthy and have seen some weight slip away over the week - be nice to try to get to 73 before we go away, I’m sure holiday will damage it but starting from a half way reasonable position has to be better than nothing.

A little concerned about what FM is going to be like though - after promising winters sessions in November I was optimistic I would work it over the winter but it dries slowly so if soakings like today are a regular thing that might not be the case. Skiiing from next weekend for the first time, then possibly some weekends of low climbing anyway after that, so conditions today won’t be an immediate concern next time I’m back on it.
AlanLittle - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to Jen-a-Thor:
> climb Nanga Parbat or the hardest route on K2 (serious face)

Istr recall reading that there's some heinously hard "Russian Route" on the west face of K2, done in a mass siege style most western alpinists these days would disapprove of. Just like there seems to be on most big mountains.

So that's presumably waiting for an alpine style ascent. Good luck,
Post edited at 20:29
MFB - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:
Mon - middlefell butress - solo wet
Tues - 5 miles on bike - wet
Wed - 5 miles on bike - wet
Thurs - 11 routes autobelay up and down - up to 6b, 40 mins?
Fri - Original route, raven crag alt lead
Sat - gentle 1/2 hr session ambleside wall bouldering, 5 miles on bike
Sun - Holly tree traverse, raven crag lead
Maybe lost 1 kg this week, a slow start on that element

STG - E1, onsite, lakes, reasonable pro, before Feb 28th
Post edited at 20:38
AlanLittle - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. No aerobicity this week though.

STG: Addressing the head game: fall or jump off every time I have a rope on. Top out on the Big Intimidating Roof sector at Thalkirchen - have never succeeded on this in all the time Thalkirchen has been my local lead wall.
Average weight for the month of January below 82 kgs: currently 82.6
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Wall, Boulderwelt. Hangover cure session. Had intended to work on a 7a circuit project (a different one from the one I did last week), but ended up spending most of the energy in the session locked in battle with the crux of a new "6b" that I had been hoping to warm up on. I hope it was at least partly genuinely sandbagged and not *just* the hangover.
Redpointed the "6b" eventually, then managed the crux of the 7a (move 23 of 25) a couple of times in isolation, and was close to getting a longer link into & through it than I have before. So all in all not a bad start to the year.

T: Mostly resting. Watched Eric Hörst's recent video about forearm extensor training and did what he said in the hope that it might help with my ongoing elbow issue.
http://trainingforclimbing.com/effective-forearm-antagonist-training-for-climbers/

W: Wall. Didn't have time for my normal Wednesday routes session - school holidays, family - but managed to squeeze in a shorter bouldering session. Decent progress on a couple of projects, including a tick of a roof problem with big holds & big reaches that I've been working on for a couple of sessions. Good.

T: Rest. Half an hour armaid + general stretching, mobility, foam rolling

F: Canned planned evening at Boulderwelt with my son due to a recurrence of the 2017/18 winter Lurgy That Will Not Die - sudden burst of streaming nose, violent sneezing, headache that comes for 12 to 24 hours, then lurks in the background only to emerge again a couple of weeks later. This is getting on my nerves & shows no sign of going away for good.

S: Ten degrees & sunny, would have been a perfect day day to drive down to Kochel to see if any *actual* bouldering is dry. But was in bed until midday getting over the lurgy attack. Frustrating.

S: Wall, Freimann. Bouldering, rounded off with 10x12 move lattice board ancap intervals.
And an hour mobility & rehab weights for shoulders & elbows. Which feel fine until & unless I start trying to do any serious pulling exercises, at which point they don't. So keep going with the rehab then I suppose. Learned a new exercise today: seated wall slides. Much, much harder than standing or lying down. Will definitely be adding those to the repertoire in the attempt to get my mid & lower traps working properly.
crimpsoplenty - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Can I join up?

STG: lead a lot and reduce that fear. Also f6b boulder problem
LTG: lead a 6c outdoors

Monday: dead from work, flu season and we are busy!
Tuesday: strength training. Some assisted pull ups, dead lifts and squats
Wednesday: sleeping after night shift very basic fingerboard session + stretching
Thursday: bouldering session working on comp problems that are slightly too hard for me at the moment but I am seeing progress on them. Followed by yoga
Friday: work then sleep
Saturday: lead session. Have neglected leading in favour of bouldering and have turned into a big wimp. Read some of the rock warriors way on friday night and felt a lot braver. Lots of practice falls and lead a few things that I knew would be hard and would struggle to top rope clean. Endurance is shot from the bouldering so I had a lot of rests but I felt good.
Sunday: bouldering at the depot and then yoga. Trying their comp routes but the ones I can't do are all steep powerful routes and I get too pumped to try too many times.

Next week: get back on lead and attempt to be brave :p
Tyler - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> If my memory serves, before xmas you were doing foot off bouldering workouts fairly regularly- do you think you would have been able to 1-3-5 at that point? I’d be surprised if power dropped off so quickly?
Sadly, I've never been able to do footless bouldering, you may be thinking of the foot on campusing I was doing before a trip.

It's been a pretty poor week with all my new year resolutions dropped by the 2nd.
M: New Year, a new me. A BUK session.
T: New Year, same old me. Was going to go for a run but started to finish off the delicious but unhealthy food we had left over from Xmas so I could start properly on my diet.
W: Went to BUK
T: Replaced all the delicious but unhealthy food I'd eaten on Tuesday, I'll do more cardio instead of dieting.
F: Our data centre went dark so spent the day making sure blame was pointed in the right direction, i.e. away from me. Then went out and got unusually drunk.
S: Wife's Birthday so guilt free gluttony.
S: BUK, managed 3 new V5 failed on earlier in the week.Did some campusing with no progress. Started the beastmaker 1000 7A workout but switched to BM 2000 6C halfway through due to crowding. I suspect the 2K 6C is harder as I struggled with the second half of the workout.

Other
Weight: 11stone, news made worse by being shown some photos of me when I was in my early twenties, I was sooo thin (albeit quite effete looking).
Having said I've started following the Fasting on Instagram I've been forced to reconsider after having my breakfast ruined today, he'll understand why.
Si dH - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. My warm up is fairly similar whatever / whenever I'm doing to be honest. I do a 10 second hang on some easy slopers, then 4 pullups on jugs, then a 10 second hand hang on a good half crimp, then some jogging on the spot or similar for 30 seconds or so while my fingers rest a bit, then a 20 second hang on some half crimps, bit more jogging/arm swinging, then a set of 6x 7/3 repeaters with front 3 and back 3 on good edges, then a rest for 3-4 mins, then a series of 4 or 5 more 10 second hangs on a half crimp getting progressively smaller and starting to add weight. If I'm doing a one arm session I'll add in a couple of one arm hangs on the jugs. Then after all that and another 3-4 minute rest I'm ready to go.

One thing I have discovered through this training programme though, is that however well warmed up my fingers are for normal holds, I still need to briefly warm up separately into pinches (in this case, by doing one unweighted hang before I try to do one at my max hang weight.) I need to remember this when I'm on problems with hard pinches on them. I'm guessing it's because my normal warm up routine doesn't engage my thumb at all.

STGs:
- Don't reinjure my finger
- Keep up 1 or 2 sessions per week of shoulder/core training
- Follow 5 week trainingbeta advanced finger training program (started 02/12, so should theoretically finish 15 sessions by 07/01/18.)
- Get finger strength up around 8a+ level on lattice edge.

MTGs:
January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg
- Tetris
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse

LTG: either The Mentalist or Caviar depending on whether family commitments allow for any routes next summer.

M: training programme week 4 session 3. Two handed max hangs on 14 mm edge, pinches and 3 finger 18mm edge
T: rest
W: training programme week 5 session 1. Two handed max hangs on 14mm edge, sloper pinches (ie, pinching the 35s) and pinches.
T: rest
F: training programme week 5 session 2. One armed hangs on 20mm edge and 35 degree slopers.
S: rest
S: was supposed to do the final session on my training plan, but the weather was too good so went out for a short morning session on Tetris instead. Glorious day. Had a good re-acquaintance, did the problem in 3 sections. And definitely counts as shoulder training

Have also started dieting this week. Going ok so far but not lost much weight yet.

Plan for this week is to finish the trainingbeta advanced finger training plan, which means one more session (probably Tuesday) and then a week's complete rest, also while continuing the diet. My starting weight last Sunday)/Monday was 77kg and I want to get back down to below 72kg by the end of March (sooner would be better of course.)
The other thing I want to do while losing some weight is get acquainted with the new 50, degree woody at the Unit, so once I've had my week's rest and done a benchmarking to see whether my fingerstrength has improved much, I'm going to get on that.
I'll update my goals next week.

Si
MauraLorrissey - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy!

On the pull ups, yep no way will get the done by end of Jan. I have been trying to do them more often at home. But need to get a bit more dedicated to the cause. Having somewhere to do them at home is great though.

STG:
**do 5 pull ups (tbc)
**lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
**Dave Creek Circuit Hike (10km)
**indoor 21 overhung route on the 'nose' on top rope. Need to start doing some more focused overhang sessions if Jen wants to climb in the Coolum cave in September!

MTG:
Mt Tibrogargan:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c)
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018

LTG:
*100km cycle - either Brisbane to Bay (June) or cycle to Gold Coast (Oct)
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains (October with Jen) - lead a 20
*climb a big wall before I'm 40

Monday - 1st January
-20km return cycle to brunch

Tuesday
- Quick indoor climb before going back to work. Was intending to do 4x4 (including down-climbing), ran out of time and did x2 down-climb routes, x1 no down-climbing.

Wednesday
Climb KP
- Anonymous (14) - Lead
- Frontier Psychiatrist (16) - half lead after someone took a fall and couldn't finish it.

Thursday
AM - Two classes
Dynamic
- 20 min circuit: Jump hurdles & box, driveway run, x10 goblet squats (12kg), Rope slams x10, Jump touch x10, hanging leg raises x5, 1 min rest.
- Handstand practice
- x3 sets, x20 squats, x20 lunges, x20 jump lunges, x20 jump squats
Stretch & Core
- various mobility exercises, front & back scorpions, bear crawls, side planks
- various leg raise exercises, on floor, hanging x3 sets
- various core exercise with kettlebell (8kg)

PM - Indoor Climb
- had a bit of a failing session. Tried several 23/24's and on 3 of them I just couldn't get past the next move. A little frustrating, but can't be to hard on myself after a break from climbing and training.

Friday
AM - Metcon - High heart rate i.e. near vomit session.
4 sets
x4 sledge push (+10kg) plate
Run to the end of the block
Max wall sits (10kg plate)
Various stretches

Saturday
- Mt Mitchel hike (10km)
- added on the Box Forest walk at the end (5km)

Sunday
- rest day
Si dH - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Si dH:

Forgot to mention that for the last week or so, as a result of all the training, I've had a few minor golfers elbow flare-ups, particularly my left but also slightly my right. This needs fixing so I need a goal to do a few sessions per week of elbow rehab while losing weight and especially after board sessions.
Bones [:B - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Istr recall reading that there's some heinously hard "Russian Route" on the west face of K2, done in a mass siege style most western alpinists these days would disapprove of. Just like there seems to be on most big mountains.

> So that's presumably waiting for an alpine style ascent. Good luck,

This is very interesting AlanLittle - greatest thanks. I'll be all over it soloing sans oxygen - I think that must be the west face direct. There is only one 3 metre overhang on the hardest face, I reckon bouldering on the training board at the climbing wall should help with that. What's the route that the Russians won the Piolet d'Or for and Steve House was pissed? That wasn't that was it??
mrchewy - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Not so brave - I heal quickly in general and at some point you have assume it's sorted, otherwise you have nagging doubts in the back of your head and I really don't need to go down that road.

Turns out my seasonal asthma has turn into full-time, so on inhalers now. I reckon it might be down to there being a cat where I live nowadays and I'm allergic to them, dunno, but I'm hoping it gives me a Chris Froome type boost.

STG - Put up fingerboard
MTG - 7a
LTG - 7A

Mon - Rest Day.
Tue - Paul's garage. Pulled on at 30deg, managed a load of moves warming up that normally are no go, the shoulder is feeling a lot better. Max hangs on lattice edge. Bodyweight, both hands. 5,5,8,7,5,6,5. A lot of single pullups off straight arms.
Wed - Massage. Wow, this was a great one.
Thu - Rest Day. Ruined a bit by the massage.
Fri - Bodyblade and physio. Weighted mobility. Felt amazing and lots more movement in the shoulders. Super happy.
Sat - Bodyblade and physio.
Sun - Stanage Causeway. Basically took a rest day when I got there, was psyched on the way up but not when I got there and a lot of stuff was wet. Did sit down and pull on to Hippo, just to test the knee out on a heel and it felt fine. Happy days. Nice to be out with old mates etc.

Feel a little like I'm treading water until next week and heading off to Spain but should get the finger board up today and then I can use the time better at Paul's actually playing on the board.
Otherwise, the massage made a huge difference and felt like the final piece in the jigsaw to being recovered from the last 18 months. There's a long way to go in regards to getting strength back in the fingers and the shoulders, plus some flexibility but this'll do me for now.
Started cutting down the food and beer, need to lose the pile of weight that's been amassed since the crash. I'm guessing about 10kg heavier than then, dunno, I never weighed myself at the time but I'm certainly the heaviest I've been in the 7 years since I started climbing - there are big gains in strength, endurance and power to be made by losing what must be an eighth of my body! Ha

Nice to read everyone else's reports - some great stuff happening.

planetmarshall on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> planetmarshall: Good effort to get up to Glencoe for the weekends, especially if you manage to get your training hours in as well!

Yes, Glencoe is a bit closer than the Cairngorms, so I can get to the hostel and still get a decent night's sleep.

Last weeks goals -

Get back into a regular training routine. The Mixed Climbing plan from Uphill Athlete stalled due to flu and I've been a bit lazy in picking it back up.

Achieved.

Been devouring the material on Uphill Athlete and trying to resolve some of the inconsistencies in Training for the New Alpinism regarding zones and training volume (like how you can do 4 hours of Z1 training in a week over three sessions, the largest of which is 25%??). The forums are quite good for this.

Mon - Walk to to the bealach between Glen Etive and the Lairig Elide, with a vague intention to do Sron na Lairig (II), but couldn't see a thing! Ridges best left for a clear day.
Tue - Rest
Wed- General strength session. Core and bodyweight exercises. Loving the hanging windshield wipers, now I can actually do them...
Thu - Rest
Fri - General strength.
Sat - Trail run round Burbage and Higgar Tor. 90 minutes at aerobic threshold (about 141bpm for me)
Sun - Rest/Pub

STG

Continue with the Uphill Athlete strength plan but add in some aerobic threshold training on the off days. Start the volume at about 3 hours per week. Get up to Scotland at the weekend for either climbing or ski touring.

MTG

LAMM in June.

Some of these are pretty ambitious for this year, but...

Scottish Winter 2017/18

Fallout Corner (VI 7)
The Hoarmaster (VI 6)
Savage Slit (V 6)
The Guillotine (V 6)
Tholl Gate (VI 6)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Kami-kaze (VI 7)
Central Buttress (VI 7)
Shang-High (VII 7)
Central Grooves (VII 7)


Bouldering

Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)


British Trad Routes (Early 2018)

The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone


LTG

The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (VD) Solo


BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
The American Direct (ED1)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.







Ally Smith on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Tyler:

> Weight: 11stone, news made worse by being shown some photos of me when I was in my early twenties, I was sooo thin (albeit quite effete looking).

8st target weight then ;-)

Tyler - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:
I remember when I went to Peru when I was about 23 I tried to put on weight by eating as much as I could, my target was to get to 10 stone but didn't manage it. Oh for a return to those days.
Post edited at 10:18
planetmarshall on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

...also planning to do some testing this week.

Aerobic Threshold Test - https://www.uphillathlete.com/8-diy-steps-to-figure-out-your-aerobic-threshold-indoor/
Anaerobic Threshold Test - https://www.uphillathlete.com/diy-anaerobic-test/

I note that Frontrunner in Sheffield do a lab test, might look into this also.
Ally Smith on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks guys, I'm trying to ween myself off the cave - too much of a good thing, and all that...

Hence, this week i went to a different wall, and bouldered on grit for the first time in 3 years, with some unexpected results

Also, like AJM i've been trying to do 30min+ of exercise a day to kick start recovery from 2months of festive gluttony

Week 1
M - 90min urban park walking in Brum with a mild hangover
T - Depot. Just wasn’t feeling it – tried a few things, tried getting involved in the 30degree board, but body didn’t want to know. Pulled on the circuit board, got a nasty flash pump on the “7c” (soft 8a?) circuit, and went downhill from there. Ended up failing on a 6c and at that point knew I should be heading home.
W - Freebie gym pass. 7min14s 2k ergo row (best for a couple of years; thigh growth definitely a bonus for something! Still some way off 7:02 PB). TRX reverse flys, I’s & T’s. 2x10min cross-trainer, then 60min hatha yoga (gentle hippy yoga, not the ashtanga i'm used to, but still found some kinks in my thoracic)
T - Boardroom – climbed so much better than Tuesday, but a bit “front-wheel-drive” still. Lattice edge test, BW-5kg both hands (94%) – much easier than my home edge! Moonboard problems; 8x 7A, about 60% flash. Failed on “Hard Times” the benchmark/sandbag Ben Moon 7A problem though. Finished with lattice 50s on/70s off x10 HI aero-cap.
F - Lunchtime bike ride. 22km flat. 50min. 411kcal. Evening stretching
S - 30min of core, shoulder engagements and calf raises before a whole day of engagement ring shopping
S - Stanage Plantation. Repeated Not to be Taken Away (f6C) and got gripped on the damp top out. Did the 7A+ dyno next to it. 90min trying a one move wonder https://www.instagram.com/p/BdsA7Cohp5D - came super close to holding the top a couple of times, which cost a lot of skin! Flashed Glass Hour (f7A) as warm down. Then got super jealous of friends private moon board in the spare room of their Sheffield "mansion"... (I $hit you not)
Dandan82 - on 08 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks as always Guy, here's the run down of the rest of the week in Margalef, it's not the bumper tick list that I might have hoped for but I took a bunch of positives from it.

M: We went to Cami de L'ermita up at the top of the small valley, I think I must have been nursing the elbow a little as I only did a bunch of 6's, but it's a really good crag with some surprisingly good lines, Kagate Kid (6c+) is one of the best at the grade I've ever done.

T: We went to a new crag called Margalwest, sat on its own on the North side of the Ermita valley. The walk in could do with a bit more footfall, it was pretty challenging at times and seemed a lot of effort for a crag with only 12 lines, luckily it turned out that some of those lines were pretty fantastic.
The grades rose in almost perfect order from a 5+ slab on the right to a bouldery 8a and 8a+ on the left.
I did a couple of warm ups then onsighted Margalwest (7a) which was a joy to do, then I got properly stuck in and had a go at Balada Triste (8a) a one-move boulder to an easier top section.
I didn't stick the crux move while putting the draws in, but then on my first redpoint attempt, I hit it first time, and nearly ticked the route, fluffing the easier moves on the top section! Not only was it nearly 8a in a day, it was nearly 8a first redpoint!
This tells me two things, firstly my endurance is definitely a bit poor as the top section after the crux was no more than 7a+ and I totally ran out of juice, secondly, the route is definitely not 8a! The crux is straight off the floor and maybe 7A at a push, and like I say the rest would be a low 7 sport route on it's own.
Still, 7c+ in a day would have been nice, sadly, my third go involved further faffing down low so I ran out of steam even earlier.
No cigar, but I did learn a few things, most notably that I'm currently really not moving well on rock. I didn't feel comfortable throughout the holiday and i'm sure it cost me a lot of efficiency at all grades. I think I've taken movement for granted while training harder and not given it the constant attention it needs, that or i'm just coming to realise that i've always moved badly!

W: I rested properly this time, we went up to La Braseria so Mrs Dandan could do some leading, and I mostly sat in the sun and read my book, lovely.

T: We went up to Espadelles so I could try Maligna (7c). I got all the moves easily enough going bolt to bolt, but I was lacking the stamina to get it in one. I even used my shonky home made knee pad to take advantage of a big kneebar rest and still I came off a few moves from victory, twice. This is definitely not me on form, much work required!
The day was dampened somewhat when we witnessed a guy take a huge whipper, invert and smack the wall with his back and the back of his head really, really hard. He half scalped himself but stayed conscious and seemed ok, he got airlifted off by helicopter eventually. Stay safe kids, don't skip those clips...

F: Back along to Espadelles Extension where I had a frustrating random occurrence of my old elbow/bicep overuse ache, quite severely and totally out of the blue. My only explanation is that I had not done my usual gymnastic antagonist stuff all week and it had actually been doing a better job of keeping the elbow pain in check than I had realised. I might need to come up with a pared down holiday version of the antagonist work to use when away.
I had a go at Fòllame (7c) which was fantastic but I could only do bolt to bolt because of the elbow, although its another endurance route so in my current shape I can't claim that I'd have been successful anyway. One for the 'to do' list, along with two ridiculously steep routes in the Cova del Cavall, 45 degree cave climbing at 7b+ and 7c that look just preposterous.

S-S: Travel back home and sort our lives out ready for the dreaded return to work.

Even though the big ticks weren't coming thick and fast, it was a great holiday as always, nice to start the year off with 25 or so ticks while you can still taste the mince pies.
We got to hang out with awesome people as always, which really makes the experience worthwhile, our host Mac was brilliant as ever, nice to see Liam Lonsdale again, even if he was turning the air blue for miles around when falling off his project! His friend Tom, a bonkers Verdon guide called Alan, a couple called Ali and Phil were all new faces to us and all very awesome. We saw our friend Patrick for new years, watched a bunch of famouses falling off stuff in Laboratory, and just got another step closer to wanting to live the rural Spanish lifestyle at least semi-permanently.

I suppose I had better get back to some training then, we are going back in May...
the sheep - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> The sheep: I’m looking forward to hearing how you get on with your goals for the year. Are you changing the training approach in the run up to planned events, or are you just going to keep clocking up the miles?

Cheers Guy.

Plan is to keep on clocking up the distance in all disciplines, however as we get closer to events focus more towards the specific goals. First up is the half marathon early Feb so plan to get some more distance runs in, thereafter a duathlon so back out on the bike more and with distance in the legs already some speed work on the runs.
Swimming will hopefully be a constant, however im currently adapting my stroke to breathe on both sides every third stroke rather than just breathing on the one side as i have always previously done. This also allows me rotate my shoulders more to get a longer reach and a more powerful pull. Going to separate the swim sessions into discreet technique, distance or speed/power sessions throughout the week. There is a lot of muscle memory to overcome to achieve this but it makes it interesting
Then also as the weather improves start to get some brick sessions in and get used to wearing the tri suit. Oh and go climbing more and finally finish off my sports diver qualification. All this combined with a wife who likes to run, all 3 kids who swim and do gymnastics leads to a hectic life!

Anyway last week wen as follows;

Monday, 13.5km run, not sure at times whether i was running or swimming through the mud
Tuesday, 1km swim
Wednesday, 1km swim and 6.7km pace run
Thursday, 2km swim
Friday, 1km swim
Saturday, rest
Sunday, 6.6km trail run, slightly dodgy knee which was a pain

Still good start to the year ticking off the basics, onward and upwards!
mattrm - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 6lbs

M - W - Rest
T - Indoor routes
F - S - Rest

Managed to get down the wall. So that's something. I'm beginning to get more sleep, which is nice. Post christmas ballon was only 3lbs, which is a good thing I think. Again lots of walking at the weekend which was nice, but probably not enough to put much of a dent in my weight. Hopefully all this pushing a pram will at least stop me from gaining this week. It's all finally heading in the right direction.

My trip won't be much I'm afraid. A weekend away in North Wales or the Lakes doing easy trad is the aim.
TheFasting on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Bones [:B:

Those are my kind of goals!
TheFasting on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I can't feel that they are helping much as of right now. Actually got a slightly tender finger after Moon Board + hangboard last time even though I felt 2x as strong on the hangboard as I did before. Can climb with it just fine and I don't feel anything in it right now, but I'm taking 1 week+ off the hangboarding for now.

Right let's write down some goals for this season. Not writing any longterm goals because any time I do that on this forum people give me shit about it.

STG (winter season, before 1st of April):
- Do my first ice lead climb, then more. Keep toproping in between those.

- Climb Siluetten (M3+) in winter

- Climb Store Skagastølstind in winter (Andrews renne (M3)

- Climb Fabrikkfossen (WI-3) in Rjukan

- Do Bukkeholstraversen (about 20 km, 1900m vertical, 18 2000er, some exposed scrambling) in winter

MTG (before June):

- Climb the North East couloir of Nordre Soleibotntind (750m, 50-60 degrees)

- Climb Eilert Sundts Gate (n5-) and Borchgrevinks crack (n5) (might be overambitious, I dunno)

- Do a longer trad holiday to Hægefjell or Bohuslän


LAST WEEK (cant remember half the stuff I did):

MONDAY:

Ice climbing at Hvalsberget. Did 5 laps on a WI4, it went reasonably well, but I think I might be moving my feet too high? I get pumped on the vertical stuff because I can't shift my weight over my feet well when I stand up, so I need to pull myself up with my arm.

Video, please critique what you can: https://www.instagram.com/p/BdadZ3ijIOt/?taken-by=thefasting

WEDNESDAY:

Gym session. First Moon Board where I tried and failed a bunch of stuff. Limit session, after all.

Then lifting and hangboarding. Hangboard with 3 sets of 3-6-9 for open hand (20mm), crimp (+ 2kg), half crimp (+ 2 kg)

Did 100 kg squats and realized I can't linearly progress those anymore.

Bench: 50 kg x 6, 60 kg x 6, 70 kg x 10 for the + set. Then 60 kg x 12 AMRAP I think.

Deadlift: 120 kg for 2 sets of 5.

FRIDAY:

Home strength session.

3-4 reps for 3 sets of one arm push-ups.

6 reps of +9 kg pistol squats = PR

Some jumping one arm chin-ups and slow eccentrics. But first the first rep I tried to see where I was at with a full rep and this happened (WARNING, MAN IN BOXERS BECAUSE HE COULDNT FIND HIS TRAINING PANTS) : https://www.instagram.com/p/BdnErj5jdlZ/?taken-by=thefasting

Then a few sets of advanced pike presses (shoulder exercise), got 10 rep as a max.

And 2 sets of 4 leg raises, I was pretty dead at that point.

SUNDAY:

Ice climbing again! This time in Kinnartangrenna

First did 4 laps on a WI3 I can't remember the name of.

Then did 1.5 lap where I failed due to pumping out on my first ever WI5 Careful with that axe (WI-5). I had the same issue with the transition from stepping up to standing up that lead to being pumped I think. Also, stubbornly chose a line along this "ice arete" type of feature instead of more of a gully-like feature to the left, which made it harder to get good axe placements fast. Need to learn to read the terrain more.
Dandan82 - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

> Not writing any longterm goals because any time I do that on this forum people give me shit about it.

Really? This doesn't seem very FitClubby...
I'm hoping I wasn't involved because what I don't know about ice climbing and mountaineering is, well, everything, so I hope I didn't comment.
It seems a shame for you to feel like you can't freely post whatever goals you want, that's kind of the point of this!

More importantly, loving the surprised face after the 1 arm chin up!
mrchewy - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to TheFasting:
I really hope it wasn't fitclub or myself that makes you not want to post long-term goals. I've found the rest of the forum can be brutal sometimes in replies but generally, in here, everyone is fairly supportive but honest if necessary.

Ice wise, and you asked for comments, it's not the feet being to high in relationship to your hips but the heels being too high - that's going to feel sketchier and then you grip harder and have to pull harder. Hard to remember when you're on the ice but it's something to really focus on to make good gains.
Post edited at 07:08
Ally Smith on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to TheFasting:
Ice critique:
- foot placement basics - heels lower! Maybe try some yoga/downward dog to loosen your calves up so you can take some tension out?
- you're not getting first time placements with you feet. Pick a spot, ideally a sweet spot with a little bulge below the strike point to provide support from the secondary points, and make sure your foot strikes that spot
- second to those points: How sharp are you crampons? That could be another reason why they're sketching about, which in turn is making your arms over grip and pump out?

- forearm pump on axes - this should be so much less of an issue with modern axes - you're not leashed in, so just like rock climbing, so can, and should shake out!
Post edited at 09:38
TheFasting on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to Dandan82:

No it wasn't here, but I think in general it's good to keep big goals to yourself too. Very often naysayers feel the need to chime in to ruin your excitement, and there's very little benefit from telling other people about them anyway. Better to just keep my head down and work toward them on my own.
TheFasting on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to mrchewy:

Aha, so I need to focus more on heels lower. I thought they were low enough already so I didn't think much about them.
AJM - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

> No it wasn't here, but I think in general it's good to keep big goals to yourself too. Very often naysayers feel the need to chime in to ruin your excitement, and there's very little benefit from telling other people about them anyway. Better to just keep my head down and work toward them on my own.

I'm glad it wasn't us. 

I think there can be some benefit, in that it's fairly commonly assumed that telling people your goals acts as an extra incentive to achieve them and repeating/reminding yourself of the big aim can help maintain focus, but you've got to balance that with your past experiences. If the goals are stated within FC it's unusual for that many "outsiders" to pass comment on them from my memory, and we don't tend to do so ourselves (plenty of other people, myself included, have BHAGs which are miles from their current level, but that's kind of the point, it's about inspiration).

Dandan82 - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

I've had "9a by my 40th birthday" as a BHAG goal all year and nobody has (openly) laughed at the ridiculousness of that yet!

I think putting big goals, or any goals, in the open gives some measure of accountability, creating motivation to achieve them, rather than keeping them under wraps and just letting them slip away quietly if things don't work out.

As much as I have bashed Jerry's new book, his advice on goals seems pretty solid - write them down. Whether that is here on a forum or at home on a piece of paper stuck on your fridge, it is a way to give the goal some substance so that you can't just ignore it. Sure, don't write it on here if you aren't comfortable with that, but make sure you do write it somewhere.

EDIT: Or, you know, what AJM said... 

Post edited at 07:40
AlanLittle - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to Dandan82:

I have onyl owned up to my "8a in three (oh shit) years" to realtive strangers in online forums. I don't think any of my regular climbing partners would believe. Tbh I don't know if I actally do either. But The Way Is The Goal (tm) & all that - as long as it gives me an incentive not to be content to remain in the low 7's, then it's working.

Tom Green on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Happy New Year Fit Club!

Guy -a triple thank you this week: the usual thanks for Fit Club, an additional thanks for a lot of good advice chatting in Scotland last week and extra thanks for the catch on Yukon Jack!

My first post of the year is going to be a bit of a behemoth, so apologies in advance! In fact I think I might split it in two... Firstly, overall thoughts heading in to a new year.

The turn of the year has been a good point of focus and has produced the following thoughts:

1. My previous training wasn't really training -I didn't know enough about the theory to even start putting a structured plan together. I still know very little, but hopefully enough to get more out of my training time.

2. Being an 'all-rounder' is dangerously close to 'being good at nothing'. Whilst it is perfectly possible to improve and maintain across different climbing disciplines (especially with my very low starting point!) it may be more productive to make some 'sacrifices' or postpone some goals to allow smarter training.

3. My life at the moment is giving me the opportunity to explore more 'mountain-based' goals, but this may well change over the next couple of years to a lifestyle where more 'cragging-based' goals are a better choice. I am never likely to have more training time than the next twelve months.

4. Although my goals for the next twelve months will fit in to the STG/MTG/LTG format (being both linear and progressive) it also makes sense (i.e. helps me!) to look at them as a bit of a year plan.

 

So, feel free to skip if bored as this is mostly for my own benefit!

 

QUARTER ONE

Summary: Get used to training, with some good trips to maintain motivation.

 

Process:

TFTNA transition period (and in to base period)

Focus on NEVER dropping a climbing session to avoid gaining fitness at expense of skill

Build prehab exercises in to DAILY routine

 

Trips:

Norway Ski

Scottish winter

France ski

Chamonix climbing

 

Goals:

Scottish VI

Five black runs

Multiple ED routes

 

Measure:

Alpine combine parameters increase by 10%

 

QUARTER TWO

Summary: Build on general strength training and fitness for mountains but with some sport and bouldering trips to keep motivation high.

 

Process:

TFTNA base (continue max strength and start musc enduro)

Focus on not missing climbing sessions

Continue shoulder prehab and WATCH ELBOWS in lofoten.

 

Trips:

Montserrat

Norway

 

Goals:

E1 on multiple rock types

Boulder f6B in Lofoten

Sandstone trail in sub-10 hours

 

Measure:

Norway challenge of 1000m vert ascent with 15kg bag in <4h

Alpine combine parameters improved by further 10%

 

QUARTER THREE:

Summary: Completing muscular endurance programme and tapering prior to Kyrgyzstan trip

 

Process:

TFTNA base/specific

Focus on maintaining mountaineering skills

Have discipline for proper break from climbing after Kyrgyzstan

 

Trips:

Kyrgyzstan

 

Goals:

El Cap Nose day (880m in sub 24h)

New routes on unclimbed peaks in Kyrgyzstan.

Break from climbing... Shift focus to sport climbing? Redpoint F6c

Start transition training for winter 18-19.

 

Measure:

Post trip alpine combine

 

QUARTER FOUR

Summary: Restart training, using past year as a springboard for best ever winter season!

 

Process:

TFTNA base

Focus on Drytooling for climbing sessions

 

Goals:

Onsight M7

Redpoint M8

 

Sorry... that's probably a dull read! Now for a more normal Fit Club post...

Post edited at 12:51
Si dH - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

Your mention of Kyrgyzstan has reminded me to recommend Tommy Caldwell's book to everyone. Recently finished it, really good. It's an autobiography, not a training book, but he writes a lot about how his upbringing and mental approach affects his climbing and how he justifies his activities to himself alongside parenting. It's really interesting and much better written than some climbing books. 

PS. Tom if planning prehab every day, be careful what you do before a climbing session. There is no point building strength in those small stabilisation muscles we need to prevent chronic injury, if they are already tired before you start training and relying on them.

 

Si

Tom Green on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to Si dH:

> Tom if planning prehab every day, be careful what you do before a climbing session. There is no point building strength in those small stabilisation muscles we need to prevent chronic injury, if they are already tired before you start training and relying on them.

 

Good point. Thanks Si

 

AJM - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

Montserrat as in Spain near Barcelona? What have you got your eye on?

biscuit - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy. This is the site that has the podcast link to it. 

http://www.climbingnutrition.com/

They are long rambling podcasts but I was doing a lot of driving that week.....

So far I reckon it makes sense and i'm feeling good. I've stayed away from the scales as I want to see if I feel performance benefits not weight change. It's only a bit into it but i'd say yes I feel stronger/more recovered on the bike. However two days a week I have to eat nearly 4000cals and that's surprisingly hard to do healthily. I just can't fit that amount in.

So last week ended up being a quiet one climbing wise. I did my rehab and shoulders/elbows are feeling great. I have had a climbing session since and no reaction at all. A real novelty to have no pain during/after climbing. I could get used to that! 

It's coming up to exam time so climbing will be a bit curtailed this week and next but then I've got a nice week off before placement. So i'll keep plodding along but I need to have some good efforts on the BUK and Depot winter leagues.

 

Tom Green on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

OK. Second and more normal Fit Club post...

Last Week Revue:

M: Walked in to Sneachda. Bailed off route due to poor conditions. Walked out.

T: Walked in to Sneachda. Mirror Direct. Walked out.

W: Walked in to Sneachda. Fell off Yukon Jack. Got back on and climbed past fall. Felt desparate. Bailed.

T: Walked in to Cha-No. Felt crap: coughing/retching. Jenga Buttress. Walked out (sorry for the short day Guy).

F: Rest

S: Nowt.

S: Travel to Oslo. Shoulder rehab (bands).

 

Next Week Plan: W1 of TNFTNA

One day skiing

One General Strength session

Two Zone 1 sessions

One Zone 2/3 session

Two days winter climbing

 

STGS:

Scottish VI (dropped from previous goal of VII due to not climbing well so far!)

Ski 5+ Black Runs

3 Routes ED1+ (dropped from previous goal of 5 as had to reduce trip length)

 

MTGS:

E1 on multiple rock types

6B in Lofoten 

Sandstone trail in <10h

 

LTGS:

'El Cap Nose Day' 880m climbing in <24h (probs N Wales)

New routes in Kygyzstan

 

BHAG:

Droites N Face -Colton Brookes

Salbitschijen Westgrat

Monty's Axe at Lower Montcliffe 

Le Couer at L'Elephant

Post edited at 13:37
mrchewy - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

Actually Alan, I think it's perfectly possible for you if you can overcome the head stuff but you're aware of that and halfway there now. Not getting sidetracked by trad, alpine etc can only help.

mrchewy - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

What Andy said really - BHAG is meant to be a dream achievement and I've probably set mine too low, seeing as I'm heading there this summer to go for it. If it doesn't work for you, that's fair enough but I know I find the BHAGs inspiring.

Tom Green on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to AJM:

Yep. That Montserrat. 

I'm just there for a day or two (tacked on to the front or back of a business trip) and with a fairly inexperienced partner so will probably do one of the Gorros classic... Ratanplan or something. Unless you've any top tips for easy (5a or less) but awesome routes?

AJM - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

The route we did at Gorros was a little harder and slightly damp low down but I suspect the easy routes there are very good. The only thing we did in that grade range was on the arbret, at the north east end of the area (agulles?), which I'd recommend. Slightly harder to navigate round there though as more trees at the bases. 

guy127917 - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to biscuit:

Unfortunately I spent a good few years of my life trying to get as big as possible and still have the appetite to match so can’t say I feel you there. 4000kcals isn’t too much to eat, but it is quite a lot to prep I agree. Do you go in for protein shakes etc? Protein powder + banana + nut butter is pretty easy and calorie dense!!

 

Thanks though, will check that podcast out, long and detailed/rambling is good for the long slow workouts!

Post edited at 18:36
guy127917 - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Will anyone freak out if I use bold text in the top post next week?

Si dH - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to biscuit:

What are you doing on the days you have to eat 4000 kcals - is that lots of cycling and gym work? Do they balance with low intake on rest days or is it generally high?

Post edited at 19:32
guy127917 - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

Glad to hear it wasn't in here, but sorry to hear about conduct elsewhere on the forums. The mentality of some people on ukc amazes me (I mean, no more than other places on the internet, but still).

I don't think there is a goal too big and hairy for fitclub, mainly because we can see how hard people work every week  

 

Post edited at 21:03
biscuit - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to Si dH:

A couple of different sources put me at requiring 2750 calories a day without exercise, so that’s been my baseline. Cycle commute a couple of times a week = 1000 cals a time. That’s from garmin with all my stats and a hrm. 

A while ago I lost a couple of kilos by dropping down to 2000cal a day. However the weight loss stopped. So I wasn’t going to increase cals was I as that would put weight on? I think it was the classic situation where I was fighting my own body as it tried to hang onto my weight. 

Whether or not I lose weight or put it on 2 weeks (ish) in I’m feeling great on the bike. Two fastest commutes ever done today. 

It turns out you may not be able to improve performance if you don’t fuel properly. Who’d have thought it? 

Si dH - on 12 Jan 2018
In reply to biscuit:

.  > A while ago I lost a couple of kilos by dropping down to 2000cal a day. However the weight loss stopped. So I wasn’t going to increase cals was I as that would put weight on? I think it was the classic situation where I was fighting my own body as it tried to hang onto my weight.   

Anecdotally your experience on that occasion is similar to mine whereby a particular kcal/day level will lead to me gaining a particular rough weight and plateauing at that new weight. If I increase intake again then I plateau back at the same weight I started (after a period of time.) Obviously there can be short term peaks caused by things like Christmas.

Ultimately I disagree with your conclusions but I don't think that's important because the best balance to improve climbing undoubtedly depends on the individual (what you do, how you need to improve, and your own body). Personally I've found that after a few months, 1800kcal/day leads to me weighing about 11 st, 2000 kcal/day to about 11 st 4 and roughly 2500-2700 kcal/day (at this level it's just 'eat whatever I like') to about 12 st. I've never tried eating more than that, averaged over a reasonable period of time.  I climb a lot better and get injured less (especially fingers) when I am at my lightest. I also feel better in myself. However it does mean not really drinking much alcohol at all to hit 1800 kcal, and always monitoring food intake, so I go through cycles of giving myself a break. (The last 14-15 months has been a 'break' that is now ending...)

I obviously add Kcal to each of the above averages on training/climbing days. I find on a day out bouldering in winter I need around 1000 extra, ROM, but I'm not very scientific about it. Doing things like cycling or running would obviously change the balance substantially. I was intrigued by the 4000 number as it seemed so high but it makes sense in that context.

Edit: I meant to say, there are some interesting posts on that website, thanks for the link. I always eat a lot of protein even at relatively total kcal/day, but I've never gone to the effort of spacing it out every few hours systematically. I'm tempted to try but it seems awkward without taking protein drink or something to work.

Post edited at 08:03
biscuit - on 12 Jan 2018
In reply to Si dH:

I’m just less than two weeks in so very early days. I may end up at the same conclusion as you in 2 mths if I’m 5kgs heavier! 

Im finding the protein easy enough - but I do use a whey protein in my morning porridge to help. 

What I do know is that I feel like I have more energy. This year I have more bike orientated goals so that’s important. My climbing goals are boulder based not route based and historically a little bit of extra weight hasn’t affected boulder grades. The opposite in fact, to a degree. 

Climbthatpitch - on 14 Jan 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

 

Quick Update for me

 

M - Rest

T - Run 11.1km, 7:46 per km, 351m accent

W - Indoor climbing no structure just climbing routes

T - Rest

F - 3 rounds TFTNA conditioning

S - Run 4.7km, 5:10 per km, 190m accent

S - Rest

 

Lee

 


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