/ FitClub 568
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fitclub_567-678329
leon: I’m sure you’re not back to square one if you look at it with a longer time perspective. Although it may be true some training adaptations will reverse within a couple of weeks, right now you are just trying to increase your monthly/yearly volume. The only thing that won’t help with that is worrying about the last few weeks
hms: Out of interest have you ever done kettlebell style weights for your core/antagonist workouts? (more compound and/or dynamic than your standard lifts or TRX style stuff)
powderpuff: Fitclub posters should be somehow exempt from illness. This season it’s been killer!
Climbthatpitch: Nice work last week! Agree there is nothing better than waking up on a day knowing you are going to have time to get some solid training and then still have time for some normal life stuff as well!
AlanLittle: I’m sure you discussed this a few weeks ago (but can’t find a post), are you planning on adding any hangs or other more specific exercises to circuits and routes? Did you decide mileage was the tonic?
Dandan82: Look forward to seeing what week 1 held.
wurzel: 4 days on sounds brutal, maybe not a bad thing once in a while though!
Si dH: Happy last week birthday!
AJM: When trying the ring muscle up are you using a false grip? I understand (but cannot verify) that makes the transition quite a bit more manageable. Unfortunately, for me at least, the false grip seems to be extremely painful!
biscuit: Ooh exciting cycling goals! They should provide some good motivation during the rainy miles!
Curious Yellow: Have you a trip/project planned at the moment?
guy127917: don’t eat 3 chicken burgers
Tyler: “this just feels like trad climbing” - I can so picture someone bringing a brand new rack of cams and going through the motions placing them while arcing on a VB circuit (we get a lot of strange people at the castle)
MFB: Definitely agree Mark Twight’s writing is more entertaining! Reminds me I need to pick up a copy of Kiss or Kill…
Stuart William: Welcome along, thanks for posting a good set of goals, I hope we can contribute to keeping you motivated!
Laura Morrissey: Don’t become a SUP dude, it’s not a real sport!
Just Tintin: As an outsider looking in, one would never guess you struggle for motivation- but just letting you know that objectively, based only our posts, you do more than average, at high intensity (comps, 2 a days etc).
the sheep: Sounds like a great week, happy last week birthday!
Bones: Your MTG’s psych me up!
crimpsoplenty: It’s funny how different things work at different times for the head game. Totally agree that sometimes taking lobs is not the way to become more relaxed!
Ardo: Welcome along! Is your trip to Provence with Adrian Berry coaching?
mattrm: Another fitclub flu victim, hope you’re feeling better this week.
Ally Smith: How was the pow?
Tom G: I imagine moving house probably simulates a mountain day quite a bit better than a 45 minute z1 walk!
TheFasting: Think you may have posted in the wrong thread last week (they were out of order on the forum page). Hard to make much diagnosis on the video, but one suggestion on that last move would be consciously trying to drop your centre of gravity/hips lower, so your left arm is straighter on the matched hold.
Thanks Guy, had a good birthday thanks. I'll do a full report later but just noticed what you said to hms about kettlebells. Can they be done as specific to climbing as a TRX; what are the best exercises? Do you need a high ceiling?
I'm tempted to try some and I know my wife got on with them in a 'mummyfit' class this week too.
> AlanLittle: I’m sure you discussed this a few weeks ago (but can’t find a post), are you planning on adding any hangs or other more specific exercises to circuits and routes? Did you decide mileage was the tonic?
Good questions Guy. Am laying off the hangs for the time being because I'm nursing a right forearm muscle strain that turns into golfer's elbow at the slightest provocation. When that's sorted I will resume, but I regard fingerboarding as building a long term strength base rather than serving short term goals. My fingers are strong enough for the routes I want to do at the moment - my successes, both indoors and out, tend to be crimpfests. In the short term the biggest thing that's holding me back is a state of terrified panic whenever I'm slightly above the bolt and slightly pumped on steep ground. So the plan is to get used to being pumped above the bolt on steep ground, falling off, and not dying.
Monday: Much needed rest day
Tuesday: 45 minutes z1 run, 1 hour on the stairmaster, 3 rounds TFTNA conditioning
Wednesday: 45 minutes z1 run, climbing- felt pretty bad on boulders to warmup so decided to do some routes. Flashed a 7a+ and got within a move of flashing a 7b- strangely good performance for me considering I was feeling fatigued- terrible grading, improving technique and confidence definitely contributed more than conditioning! Didn’t do much else in the session.
Thursday: Woke up feeling fatigued and thinking I’d definitely overcooked training plan and should have deloaded this week. Within a couple of hours felt a bit better so went out for a long/slow run. Pretty immediately felt top notch so opened it up a bit and just ran at a fun pace, and got quicker and quicker throughout. Near home I decided it would be a good idea to see what my current max heart rate is. 188 seems like current max- this used to be my threshold! I ran a 10 mile race in 2013 at 185 the whole time except for the sprint finish!
Friday: Snowdon horseshoe, beautiful weather, great day. Snowy on top but not icy enough to need crampons. 6 hours total 2 hours in z1/2.
Saturday: Tryfan + Glyder Fach hking/scrambling. Weather terrible but another great day. Quite deep snow on the Glyders but again no ice, turf not frozen. 6:30 total, 3 hours-ish in z1/2.
Sunday: Rest day
Good week this week- missed one gym session and a long run compared to my plan, but still did a bit more aerobic volume than planned (8.8 hours), got a highly enjoyable threshold run in, and spent 12 hours+ in the hills. Fitness-wise I felt excellent in Wales, strong on climbs and definitely better energy levels throughout the day compared to previously. Diet was pretty reasonable throughout, down to 81.5kg.
I’m on week 10 of transition phase this week- I’m going to reload and get ready for Scotland trip on the 16th. In TrainingPeaks you schedule training load in advance, so for a taper period it tries to predict how your accumulated training fatigue will dissipate and leave you at peak fitness and also feeling fresh! My CTL is currently 67- closer to my lowball goal for August of 80 than I imagined would be the case at this stage of training.
Having used TrainingPeaks premium for 7 days I am convinced enough to sign up to premium on a rolling monthly basis. There are a couple of things I am skeptical about which mainly arise from using it for a hybrid of endurance and strength training but I’m prepared to give it a good go.
I have added an additional trip to my original schedule (a few days in Rjukan in March) which will throw the plan off a bit anyway, so I’m going to re-plan my post-Scotland training (26th feb onward) using the Training peaks ATP tool and migrate there from my current spreadsheet approach (which has worked very well for the last 10 weeks). I also need to re-read up on the base phase in TFNTA for the zillionth time to make sure I hit the ground running. Also considering switching gyms- max strength sessions at my current gym are a massive pain due to the combination of long set rest times and busy-ness.
This week I am reducing load a bit- less running, shorter gym sessions, but with 3 climbing sessions, since I will be missing any form of finger stimulation in Scotland soon (and I don't consider climbing sessions to create too much systemic stress).
Personally I would recommend Turkish get-ups (you'll have to do some research on form) and standard Kettlebell swings (ie hold with both hands and swing between your legs in a sort of squat and thrust forward). Both exercises seem to me to work the core in a way that other types of resistance training don't- hard to describe but it really feels 'compound' and the dynamicness seems more good than 'cheat-ey' as it does with others. I think it takes a bit of time to get the weight and form right so give it a few goes if you are interested. Like any exercise one man's junk is another man's treasure etc!
For swings you dont need a high ceiling, for getups you need to be able to reach your arm above your head without touching the ceiling (but that bit isn't particularly dynamic).
In terms of climbing specificity- I think the swings are probably more specific - the hip thrust section is very reminiscent of chucking for a hold above you. The get-up maybe is good for palming/mantling type motion?! It also has a hip thrust so good for core tension?
STG: Addressing the head game: fall or jump off every time I have a rope on. Three sessions of out five in January could do better.
Top out on the Big Intimidating Roof sector at Thalkirchen - have never succeeded on this in all the time Thalkirchen has been my local lead wall. Tried, fell off.
Average weight for the month of January below 82 kgs: 82.1, close.
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 (now with Vote of Confidence from somebody who has actually climbed with me several times)
Another heavy week at work; really tired now.
M: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Light session, having already climbed both days at the weekend.There was a new 5A to 5C circuit that I thought would be ideal for a spot of active rest, forgetting the local tendency to set font 5C slabs that actually are font 5C. So it turned into a good movement skills session, and not too demanding on the fingers.
T: Bike one hour
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. A shockingly poor session - no endurance whatsoever, instant flash pump on everything. Hardly surprising in the middle of another tough week at work and shortly after the probably ill-advised three days on Saturday to Monday. I did, however, get on & fall off the Big Scary Roof, so that's one success at least.
F: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Of value only as father-son time; as far as climbing performance is concerned I was barely there, and would have done myself more good staying at home and getting an early night.
S: Wall, Landsberg with my son. Much better after a decent rest day. Am definitely getting cabin fever at my local Boulderwelt, weather having been too crappy to get outside since I came back from Kalymnos three months ago, so decided to at least drive to a wall a bit further afield for a change. Good bouldering session, except that the place was overrun with poorly supervised small children. I am used to a much more rigorous standard of pest control at Boulderwelt, so hadn't realised what a problem it can be elsewhere.
Thanks Guy. I've never been terribly tempted by kettlebells so have been using a dumbell for all the OHP type stuff - mainly cos it looks like you definitely need showing what to do cos it could get unfortunate if it all went wrong!
This has been a really busy week. I may have forgotten the finer points of what I did when, and there were a lot of press-ups chucked in at random intervals too.
M - cycle commute. FB pocket session. Yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes in evening, ~14 in pairs including finally ticking the 6c+ (7a if it's a day!), OS of a new 7a then near lap of it.
W - cycle commute. Home via UCR, FoC session. This was 4th day on so definitely not the obvious time to be trying it, but managed to beat my previous top time to nudge it over the 2 min mark.
T - cycle commute. Core session.
F - TCA. Umpteen circuits to warm up them romped round all the new V0-V2 set for fun. Then boulder 4x4s which were far less fun. Cake break, then a really good few goes on the hard woodie 7b circuit with some long links, before gentle warm down. OHP & bicep curls to 10kg plus a bit of theraband in evening.
S - TCA again, this time with D1. Circuit warmup, then trying the comp problems from a couple of weeks ago. Easier ones to continue warming up, then projecting 4 of the harder ones for an hour of power. Didn't make any startling gains on any of the ones we'd picked. More circuits to warm down.
S - Redpoint, ~14 routes in pairs. Ticked one of the comp wall 7a routes easily (the black one), so close on the other now I've got a better clipping position so can hurl for the crux without taking a monster whipper every time!
Really very tired by the end. Tomorrow will definitely be a rest day.
Haha yeah, I see now I posted in the wrong one.
This week was pretty good.
- 2 hour box step session. 1155m vertical
- 1 hour box step session. 470m or so vertical.
- Bouldering session followed by lifting. Managed to send my Moon Board project "Bleak House", f6A+ benchmark: https://www.instagram.com/p/BeoJEqHDhOa/?taken-by=thefasting
- Did bench pressing afterwards, top set was 80 kg x 5. Then did some power cleans at 60 kg for 2 sets of 3. Hangboarding in between these, 6 sets of 3-6-9 for open hand (20mm) and half crimp (20mm, +2kg)
- 1h50m box step session. Did 884m vertical.
- Lead climbing session. Onsighted a new 6b, and did the previous 6b+ again but didn't do the extension. Too pumped. Probably a bit worn after bouldering. Tried a 6c+ and got halfway up it, so that's my next project.
- Bodyweight strength session. Only incremental improvements, got a bit further on the one-arm chin-up, arm now slowly past parallell. And did a one-legged front lever for 2-3 seconds.
- Went to Skullerudisen and did my first lead! First toproped it twice, and practiced setting screws some more. Then the third lap I lead it. Was uneventful. I was nervous before, but when I got on the ice the autopilot switched on after all the days out toproping and it was sort of liberating to be honest. Much steeper than I thought my first one would be, UKC crag page says WI3+, but it's tall enough to be a WI4. Vertical the whole way,
Full climb here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqEb1bNsUQg
STGs January-March 2018: - weight down to 71.5kg (started at 77.0kg evening of 31/12.) - do some 7s and put up one of my own on the new woodie at The Climbing Unit
M/LTGs from April: 7B in Font, Tetris, Eastwood Traverse, Mentalist, Caviar
M: all day travel to California. Managed diet well, refused half the food on the plane, phew.
T: all day meetings. Did ok on diet front but drank too much in the evening.
W: all day meetings. Weakened and ate a doughnut in the break, and a big meal in the evening.
T: all day travel home. Managed diet well again but picked up a cold on the flight.
F: got home at 9am, tried to sleep a bit and generally recover from jetlag/cold. Did a short Fingerboard session in the evening just to keep my hand in. Did close to my previous max on the 14mm edge and did a bit of work on the pockets. Felt a tweak in my left middle finger A2 trying a one arm hang so stopped.
S: rest/family stuff
S: had a session on the Climbing Unit woodie. Managed to do my project from the previous week. I've given it 7A+, it might be 7B in reality but I'm not sure so I'll see what others think. Pleased with this. Want to do an alternative start and finish to the same problem next.
Weight tonight is 74.0kg.
Overall pretty pleased considering this week had the potential to be a bit of a disaster for weight and training. Met my first STG on the board. Still got that minor cold though, grr.
Edit, just realised I'm now over half way to my weight loss goal, so another minor milestone
> I can so picture someone bringing a brand new rack of cams and going through the motions placing them while arcing on a VB circuit (we get a lot of strange people at the castle
That's the sort of nonsense we Northerners think goes on all the time at London walls Am I correct in thinking that 7a+ flash is your first? Good effort regardless.
Poor week as I wanted to do loads as I'm on holiday until next Monday but, as is now standard procedure before going away, I have to catch up on all the work I've told everyone I've already done before handing over!
T: House of Pain, genuinely thought today would be the day I'd manage a problem on the 50 but didn't get close. Didn't manage to beat or equal my max-time hang from this time last year but beat my second best three times, not sure what that tells me.
W: Work prevented me getting out.
T: BUK, new comp problems and then Beastmaker session but ran out of time to complete.
F: Working late
S: Working again but managed to get to BUK to do a bit of max bouldering (on techy stuff so probably not much training value). Got as close as I ever have to completing the Beastmaker 1000 7A session (less than 10 seconds hang time off). I was pleased with this until I realised the discrepancy between the workouts for beastmaker 1000 and 2000 at equivalent grades - it's massive!
S: Due to my enforced hiatus next week I decided to go to BUK before the airport, so I didn't manage anything useful in the hour I had but good to chat to the Fox who, as ever, I hassled for get fixed quick shortcuts for my various ailments.
Weight has been disappointing this week as I have been eating f*ck all without losing any and then last night I ate a pudding for the first time this week and put on 3/4 of a pound!
This week I'm on holiday, the hotel for second half of week has a gym so I should do something then, until then I'll try to do 3x10 press ups each day, a modest target by most measures but I've been doing them on my knees until now because of my shoulder.
I'm worried that eating out every day will take its toll on my waist line, hopefully my natural tightness will overcome my natural greed and I'll baulk at the dining out prices you get in a European capital city (Vienna).
> AJM: When trying the ring muscle up are you using a false grip? I understand (but cannot verify) that makes the transition quite a bit more manageable. Unfortunately, for me at least, the false grip seems to be extremely painful
cheers guy. I haven’t, but probably should. Might try to give them a go again next week and work it out.
A decent week with a slightly disappointing weekend. I forget exactly what I did in the week on the other days, but on Tuesday I went to the wall, saw Dan again. Found a lot of the set rather hard and, without anything to project on the go, wandered without much inspiration and ended up on the board. Managed to link the project in two, and had some goes where my feet were staying on a lot better - last week it was a bit of a series of cut looses. Then ran into some more people out on the wall, got stuck into trying some problems, and, because I was by that point a bit breasted, acquired some projects. So that was good. And then on Thursday I got back on the crimps on the fingerboard. I’d been a bit lax with the fingerboard - the last time I did crimps they felt a bit tweaky, I find the slopers conditionsy and progress on the pockets has been very low. But I got back on the crimps and sneaked a new pb in, not by much admittedly but I’ve got the psyche back.
We had round 2 of the baby birthday this weekend with the grandparents visiting. This was meant to be an opportunity for us to sneak out into Sunday’s bluebird sunshine and get some climbing in. But the infant decided to reenact being a newborn and refused to sleep from just after 12 until some time around 4 Saturday night, and continued this palava this morning too to the point where we didn’t really feel like leaving him. So in the end I moved some stuff round in the garden, shifted the log store, went for a bit of a walk and snuck out for an early dinner with the wife where I ate about a million calories of glorious unhealthyness. So good. Almost a consolation for not getting outside!
Have a few weekends of outdoorsy stuff coming up so hopefully the opportunity to get some stuff done. And more psyched for the training as well now, under 2months to Font so about time. Hopefully the end of the birthday stuff also means a chance to improve the diet - be good to get back down through “normal” weight to what I used to say was “peaking” weight - 3kg or so.
Hi All. Thanks as usual Guy.
Last Week Revue: W3 of TFTNA
Another disrupted week with moving house and work
T: Work and muchos driving
W: Work and muchos driving
F: Travelling to alps!
S: Downhill Skiing (on-piste) -good getting used to my touring skis again.
S: Downhill skiing (on-piste and 'side country') 3 Black Runs -TICKED STG!!
Next Week Plan: W2 of TNFTNA
Two general strength sessions
One long Z1
One short Z1
One short Z2/3
Scottish VI (TICKED!!)
Ski 5+ Black Runs (TICKED!!)
3 Routes ED1+ (dropped from previous goal of 5 as had to reduce trip length)
E1 on multiple rock types
6B in Lofoten
Sandstone trail in <10h
'El Cap Nose Day' 880m climbing in <24h (probs N Wales)
New routes in Kygyzstan
Droites N Face -Colton Brookes
Monty's Axe at Lower Montcliffe
Le Couer at L'Elephant
TFNA - Read from 22% to 34% the training is going better than the reading. This week's TFNA revelation, getting stronger will make endurance easier, sort of makes sense.
Twight -Extreme alpinism, climbing light fast and high
M- bike 1 hour 200m?
T- 1/2 hour bike
W- no time today
T- Odin, VS alt ld, Raven crag - Kendal wall overhanging auto belay, 10x up and down no rest 32mins.
F-Patella Pinch HVS sec, Mendes VS lead, Raven crag
S- Stickle Tarn, 350m 30mins with Ed
S- Middlefell butress, ODG to top 200m, 13 mins
STG - 83 kg, regaining some control, tough
MTG - confident of hanging on long enough to place good gear high on crude, less confident on off feet, E1 goal seems like possibility.
Family Scotland skiing next week so escape to climb route is possible if conditions good.
LTG- it's still beating and the joints keep creaking so all good
Well done on the lead, mate. Great work.
Good to see so many pick placements were ‘one hit sticks’ and you looked strong and controlled throughout. Impressive improvement over this season.
Keep kicking those front points in hard.
Just noticed my copy and paste typos! Last week was week three of TFTNA transition. Next week is week four.
> Dandan82: Look forward to seeing what week 1 held.
Thanks for statting Guy, top job as always!
Week 1 isn't too exciting, Tom is ramping up the intensity nice and slowly due to the still recovering elbow (which is doing pretty well), so this week was very steady with more rest days than I am used to!
M: Nothing, but I was super keen to do something so I snuck in an OG session, still no 30 second handstand but the control is improving all the time. Muscle-ups still seem next to impossible, but I think that's an upgrade from completely impossible.
T: Indoor boulder; 3 min on 30 sec off x4, 3 sets. I like this session, it's aero but intense enough to not be boring.
I successfully managed to go (almost) cold turkey on the woody despite AJM having a session on it, i'm really enjoying the woody right now but I have to try and stick to the plan for the sake of the elbow, chucking loads of extra woody on top of the largely aero cycle is not going to help! (I did however catch local strongman and physio extraordinaire Huffy and tell him that I wanted to have a woody session with him, oops)
TRX; Low rows, Flys, reverse flys, typewriters. all 4 sets of 5 reps. Only did a couple of typewriters as the elbow was fatigued from the climbing. I'll try to do this session on a non-climbing day next week.
T: Indoor Boulder; Split continuity, 3 reps of boulder problem at 75%, then 6 mins of easy climbing. Repeat x3. 75% difficulty is a tough one to hit, it needs to be hard, but I also need to be able to complete the 3 reps, I think I got it pretty close, 2 woody problems and one normal set problem.
Conditioning: Finally got to have a play in the new conditioning room! I had it to myself which i'm sure will change with time but currently I think very few people have signed up to use it.
Dumbbell shoulder press at 14kg, 4 sets of 5. Hanging shoulder depressions, 3 sets of 8. Low rows to reverse flys, 3 sets of 8/5. Prone floor IYT no weight, 3 sets of 5. Rotator cuff dumbbell rotations, 3 sets of 5.
My bionic shoulder is very unstable on the dumbbell shoulder presses, so I think this exercise will be good for building stability, I won't move it to a resistance machine.
F: Core; dish, crunches, plank, hanging leg raises, repeat x3.
I did go to a bouldering wall to sign a friend in but didn't really climb anything myself, although showing an absolute beginner good technique is quite a good exercise in itself, it really makes you pay attention to the most basic of movements.
S: Nothing, bit of DIY club in the workshop
S: Outdoor routes; Went to a very bracing Portland for some real rock, we had our eye on some specific routes which didn't get the sun until early afternoon so had to endure some pretty low temps until then. Worse was that we could see another crag bathed in sun while we shivered in the shade!
It was worthwhile though, I got a very comfortable retro-flash of Jurassic Shift (7a) and then Mrs Dandan made it her first UK 7a flash! Good stuff.
I also had a crack at Shape Shifter (7c) which I had heard was pretty soft so I thought it might be a good contender for an onsight attempt, give me a chance to put a bit of effort into preparing mentally and really go for it.
Unfortunately, the crux was two bolts of completely blind climbing, it's very hard to go full-bore when you literally cannot see a hold to go for. A bit of hanging around and I found a sequence but I'm not sure it is particularly optimal, it felt very hard and very low percentage. I did the whole sequence clean on the top rope (including mock-clipping) so I probably could have got the tick as there is a sit down rest directly below the crux. It didn't inspire me much and the rapidly sinking sun meant I left it at that. If we return i'll spend a bit of time looking for a less heinous sequence then give it a blast.
STG: (last week)
* Every session on week 1 of plan - TICK
* 30 second handstand - Fail, maybe 20 seconds once or twice
STG: (next week)
* No excess woody use
* 30 second handstand
MTG: (next few months)
* Pull on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef in May
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 8a in a day in Margalef in May
* Pick a lattice max moves target for May based on result from todays test
LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 19/150
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
massive congrats to Mrs Dandan - saw it on Facebook last night but not what the route was. I got that last summer through pure stroppiness. Had really wanted a fun bimble up Buoys will be Buoys only to find that a couple had a top rope up it literally all day and despite polite enquiry were not going to shift it. By mid afternoon I finally lost patience and decided right, I'll just flipping blast up the route next to it instead - a rare UK 7a OS.
Looking at the stats, Shape Shifter may be rated 'soft' by people, but hardly anyone has logged an OS which does rather imply sequency trickery - easy when you know how perhaps?
STG: another 7a indoors or outdoors.
MTG: 7a+ indoors or outdoors.
LTG: 7b indoors or outdoors.
Session 01: 15 mins Autobelay warmup. Campus big rungs matching 0,2,4,6. Then 0,2,4,6,8, which feels easyish now, but can't go higher because of dodgy knee jumping off. Medium rungs matching 0,1,2,3,4,5 x 2 sets; still a struggle. 30 mins boulder cave.
Session 02: 5 mins Autobelay warmup. 5 routes 6a to 6c. Attempted the 6c+ with the heel move, got the pocket move above, but came off with the reach right after. Attempted 3 routes 7a to 7b, not getting far with latter.
Session 03: 20 mins easy bouldering (indoor), 1 hour on circuit boards.
Plus 4km run, usual sit ups, press ups, and 16km hill walk.
which 7b? Apparently of the 3 on the comp wall the order of difficulty is orange (easiest), yellow, white (boulder sandbag). I tried the black up the middle groove and it is really hard - was told that it is also considered a notorious sandbag esp at the top, with very few ascents!
> massive congrats to Mrs Dandan -
Thanks, it was on second so not a lead flash, but while she's got me around to put routes up I don't think i'll ever get her leading hard!
> Looking at the stats, Shape Shifter may be rated 'soft' by people, but hardly anyone has logged an OS which does rather imply sequency trickery - easy when you know how perhaps?
Exactly, I tried several approaches and I still don't think my solution is that good, it felt too hard at the grade so i'll try to improve the sequence next time i'm there. That reminds me I must write down what I did before I forget...
> the sheep: Sounds like a great week, happy last week birthday!
Had a good solid week, manage to do something every day. Week went as follows;
Monday, 1km lunchtime swim
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 16km ride home
Wednesday, 26.5km ride home
Thursday, 5km run at lunch time then straight into the pool for a 2km swim
Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and 26.5km ride home
Saturday, 7.5km run over the fields
Sunday, brisk 6km woodland run
Short term goals, next Sunday is the Leicestershire half marathon which will be my first ever organised event! STG is to get round and not get picked up by the sweeper car as there is a strict cut off time.
After the distance runs i would also like to clock a sub 25min 5k and sub 55 10k
Thanks Guy - found some pow, but was hit hard by some lurgy during the week too. This probably kept me off indulging too heavily in the 90% cheese based diet.
Plan to lose some weight and get back on the climbing wagon again this week.
STGs for next 2 weeks:
- 3x lap of the Depot 7a and 7a+ purple circuits
- Less steep 7a on teeny footholds ("7b")
- Double lap of the orange 7b+++
- Complete Lattice and FoC benchmarks
M - Lurgy – semi-sharkathon-fail. Very light weights session for mobility, and stretched whilst watching a film and went to bed early.
T - Lunchtime an-cap assessment. 10:3@60% (+13.5kg). 150s max. Retrospectively found out I cocked up the rest interval and this data is trash, apart from the headline 150s value, which is pretty respectable.
After dinner aero-cap. FoC 1on/1off x12 reps. Wearing a 5kg weight vest to up the intensity. Felt about the right level.
W - Pilates; lots of balance work was a nice change and challenged my core somewhat. Got bored by the plank challenge after 3minutes…
T - Depot. Route circuits. Managed the 7b+++, but failed on a bunch of other stuff. Much aero-power work to be done before Margalef.
F - Nowt – packing and house tidying.
S - Travel – very boring – theraband shoulders in evening.
S - Ski day #1. Blue skies. Ace. Snotty overnight. 10x 1on/1off 7/3/6/1 with some hand grippers.
Week 5 to follow...
M - More sunny skiing. More snot/general lurginess.
T - Yet more sunny skiing; snot/lurgy & a close call on a bathroom emergency in salopettes.
W - Legs were dead, but dosed myself up on a cocktail of over the counter drugs and completed an off-piste lesson. Some very good pointers for steep and cruddy snow.
T - White out – found some pow but had a close call falling off a small drop in near zero visibility.
F - Epic bluebird pow day, though I exceeded the ladies fear tolerance with a 40 degree off-piste powder filled mogul infested couloir (there were tears…)
S - Travel – very boring – 14x 1on/1off 7/3/6/1 with some grippers.
S - Depot. Bit of bouldering to warm-up. Then back on the circuit board. 7a+, close on the 7b+++, 6c+ (as hard as the 7a+), 7a twice. Arms like lead balloons. Tried to do all the reds in room 2, but failed on the steeper one – arms had nothing to give. Less bad than previous first days back climbing. Weight not too bad either – a mere 78.4kg (agreed no cake, no biscuit diet for a week with the lady)
Thanks! I feel very secure on the ice too. Only gotten pumped once so far this year and that was on a WI5. Small tweaks to technique seem to work well.
My next goal for the season is doing an easy multipitch climb. But that depends on how long the ice holds.
> That's the sort of nonsense we Northerners think goes on all the time at London walls Am I correct in thinking that 7a+ flash is your first? Good effort regardless.
It was indeed, thanks!
I like the term, "Exempt from illness" , as you certainly do pay for it when it gets you!
Not a sausage this week, I was too ill/knackered to consider training, however I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
I don' feel the symptoms anymore, just have a complete lack of energy. Maybe tomorrow I'll be fighting fit, fingers crossed
Yup Guy, it is the Adrian Berry coaching week. Couple of guys I know have done some trad work with him and he comes recommended, plus it's in Provence!
New STGs, (Jan-Mar)
• weight target 10st 7lb/bf 15% (started at 11st 1lb/18% 1/1/18)
• e1 trad leads
• lead 7a indoor
- weight target 10st/bf 12.5% (started at 11st 1lb/18% 1/1/18)
- e2 trad leads
- lead 7b indoor, 7a outdoor
Mo: General walking, 7.5 miles Bouldering hypertrophy, (20 problems).
Tu: Commuting walk, 8.0 miles. Rest day.
We: General walking, 5.3 miles. Bouldering hypertrophy, (20 problems).
Th: Commuting walk, 7.5 miles. Rest day.
Fr: General walking, 6.1 miles. Actual outdoor bouldering session!
Sa: General walking, 6.5 miles. Climbing, indoor lead session.
Su: General walking, 5.6 miles. Climbing ARC, (30m,30m a/belay).
- weight 10st 10lb/bf 16.6%
All sessions ticked and managed to get out and climb on actual rock. Looked like the 7a target would go as well: cruising on a route that's my style, but ran into traffic as routes converged and the guy above wasn't moving up or out of my way, c'est la vie.
Monday: Training: Warm up: j-curls, walking lunges, glute bridge activation,
4 sets: deadlifts (reps: 10@25kg, 8@35kg, 6@40kg, 5@45kg, extra 5@55kg), x10 wall 'fairies', x5 squat lunge, x5 (each leg) reverse leg lunges (12kg kettlebells)
2 sets: x10 hanging leg raises, x15 12kg kettlebell swings, x10 push up/side planks, x10 box step ups with 5kg plate
Tuesday: Lead session - Kept the grades a bit lower (purples/greens). Told my belay I wasn't allowed to take to practice falling and also helps me push myself to max/failure. Good session
Wednesday: Training - all arms. pull ups, scot overhead press and squat, ball slams, tricep pulses to failure, dead hangs, high knees, bicep curls to failure.
Thursday: Training: “Altitude training” x10 box jumps, walk around box 3 times then back to box jumps (10reps). Was a fun drill to make you dizzy.
4 sets: agility sprints, wall balls, leg raises, plank
*PM indoor climb: top rope session - another session of failing on red and getting a little frustrated. But I did take my frustration out on the crack climb and managed to lay-back up about 2 meters which is a new PB.
Friday: Morning swim: 1.2km / 45 min
Sunday: 18km cycle / Top rope session - good session, tried a few greens and reds, included some overhang routes. Focused on falling off instead of letting go.
> Bones: Your MTG’s psych me up!
WOOWOOWOOOOO. You and me both pal. Looking forward to getting going on that slabbo in the spring.
Week four of TFTNA was good. I missed a strength session and did only 1 out of 3 climbing sessions as the week just got too short being in Wales on Fri and Sat but I am still feeling pretty exhausted. Right now completing all my sessions and having two days away seems to have taken its toll but as the weeks go on and I get fitter and more used to the training load it should all work out well. I am definitely seeing an improvement in my fitness which is excellent. Not sure if my climbing is improving or going a little downhill but not going to assume anything until I have some stats to back it up!
Transitional phase - week 4 summary:
Energy levels - very good
Recovery - I was feeling pretty exhausted yesterday (Monday)
Hydration - need to drink more water when out climbing etc.
Aerobic activity - 1050mins (17hrs 30mins), not including climbing
Zone 1/2 (walk/running) time - 526mins (8hrs 46mins), not including zone 3/4 run or the cycle on Sunday
Aerobic climbing - maybe 60mins (planned 90)
Climbing sessions - 1 (planned 3 - not sure how I ever thought I would fit that in!)
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength and core sessions - 1 (planned 2)
Transitional phase - week 5 plan:
Aerobic activity - 264 mins
Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stepper) time - 174 mins
Climbing sessions - 2
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength (and core) sessions - 2
Monday: Rest quite tired after the previous week
Tuesday: 66 minutes on the stepper. I increased the level from 4 to 5 and stayed in zones 1 (43 mins) and 2 (22mins). My max HR on the higher level was 157bpm down from 166bpm in the previous week (average HR 147bpm down from 154bpm). Then core and two sets of strength - I increased some weights and reps and on other exercises I worked on form, slowing them right down to make sure the correct muscles were engaging.
Wednesday: 1 hr run, 5.87 miles (same time and distance as last week) - Max HR decreased from 189bpm to 188bpm and average HR decreased from 182bpm to 175 bpm which put most of my run in zones 3 and 4, compared to 4 and 5 the previous week.
Then a bit of bouldering to warm up and some lead routes. Almost top roped an easy 7a clean but came off at the last bit.
Thursday: Rest and drive to Wales
Friday: Climbed the Snowdon Horseshoe starting on Crib Goch - 6hrs 8 mins, 8.76 miles. Excellent days scrambling and walking along the ridge. I spent 43% of the day in zone 3 roughly 50% in zones 1/2 and the rest in zone 4. Average HR was 157bpm with max at 185bpm.
Saturday: Another awesome day out in Wales. 6hrs 46 mins, 10.57 miles. According to Garmin it was 17.6 miles and my average speed 67.5 miles per hour so pretty damn fast, weird. Climbed Tryfan in the wet and wind of Wales and found lots of snow! Then walked the long way around and up to Glyder Fach. An excellent day in painful ice showers, I now see why people have goggles (and maps/compasses). 32% of the day in zone 3, 50% in zone 1, 18% zone 2 with an average HR of 146bpm and max at 178bpm.
Sunday: 2.5 hrs cycling - didn't record zones, roughly 22 miles.
To climb a big wall - El Cap
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead 30 x VS trad routes
Lead 5 HVS trad routes
Climb 5 routes from the Aiguilles Rouges book (or similar in July)
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
Run a trail half marathon
To complete the TFTNA training plan starting with the 8 week transition phase
Goals for Australia in September tbd
To complete week 5 of TFTNA and keep a record of progress, assessing it on a weekly basis - did not do multiple strength or climbing sessions
To work a 7a on lead once a week when I have a partner - nope
To flash 2 6c/6c+ indoor routes for every reset - attempted
To plan my week every Sunday - nope!
I like your lead climbing practice of no takes! Nice work matey.
Thanks Guy. Well done on the flash
Yeah that did feel really good last week. Even with working this week I managed to get most of my training done so a good week in all. This is the last week of the transition period for me now.
I am going to have a more of a relaxed week then before going away the week after. Really looking forward to taking it easy next week.
Short term goals - Last Week
5hr zone 1 running, 900m accent minimum - Sort of tick. Spent Sunday doing a hike around the beacons
25 min zone 2/3 running - Fail - I am really bad at fitting these in. I always tell myself because it is short I will do it tomorrow and always end up missing it.
2 x TFTNA conditioning - Tick
1 x climbing focusing on endurance. - Sort of tick - I really need to stop just going climbing and messing around
Short term goals - Next Week
5hr 30min zone 1 running, 900m accent minimum
25 min zone 2/3 running
2 x TFTNA conditioning
1 x climbing focusing on endurance.
M - Rest
T - 10.9km run, 8:40 min perkm, 266m accent, z1
W - More sort of a rest day. Took my boy climbing and spent most of the time belaying him which was great and hopefully he keeps coming. Messed about on some boulders in the v3 - v4 circuit
T - 3 rounds TFTNA conditiong
F - AM - 8.98km run, 08:35 min perkm, 364m accent pushed into zone 2 on this
PM - Bouldering on the v3 -v4 circuit
S - 3 rounds TFTNA conditioning
S - 23.7km hike, 1400m Accent around the central beacons
> which 7b? Apparently of the 3 on the comp wall the order of difficulty is orange (easiest), yellow, white (boulder sandbag). I tried the black up the middle groove and it is really hard - was told that it is also considered a notorious sandbag esp at the top, with very few ascents!
Only just saw this. The white one; unfortunately I didn't even make it to the hard bit. The black right of the groove, same line as that white, does get very hard at the top. I try it every now and then but always get to one move that threatens finger damage and decide it's beyond me at present.
Yes they are exciting but also scary - the best kind of goal and totally different to climbing.
What did I do last week??? I went to The Depot and did OK for a one session go at the WBL. 225 pts I think. 21 flashes and then a couple second go and a one pointer. Have to see where that puts me. Pretty pleased all things considered.
Not been back to BUK for ages and got the comp there a week on Saturday. Need to pull hard on some stuff to get woken up and trying 100%. My goal is not to disgrace myself and enjoy the day/evening.
I did quite a bit of biking in the cold and ice. Broke myself on a very hilly thing (it all got quite emotional about 15 km from home when I was cold, tired and hungry with the biggest hill still to do) and tried an hour long ride as fast as I can thing. Some other rides in there as well. Mileage is going ok as far as riding on consecutive days goes but I still need to be ramping up the single ride time/distance/ascent.
A bit late posting this but there we go.
STG: Climb every slab problem at TCA. One arm, half-crimp hangs with 4kg assistance. Complete one core workout, one FB workout, and one antagonist workout next week, plus usual climbing.
MTG: Finish Black Snake Moan at Brean and Liquid Crystal at Cheddar - kept dropping both at the last hard move last year. 65 moves on Lattice board (previous best 56), with 3rd rep at 75% and 8th rep at 40% of max. Unassisted one arm hang on BM1000 bottom edge.
Very LTG: La Rambla.
Monday: Short run then TRX: Inverted rows, Ys and Ts, and pec flys
Tuesday: TCA bouldering. Too busy at the wall to get on circuits (or maybe that is an excuse). Aim was limit bouldering on the mood board in the end. Found a problem that targeted a few weaknesses - nearly got it by the end of the session so maybe not hard enough.
Thursday: Core workout. Less painful than last week but better form throughout.
Friday: Sun was shining so bailed out of work for a couple hours to go play on the Bourton Combe boulders. Got the AD Bourton Link done pretty quick which has been on the list since i first tried it a few years ago.
A busy week with other things so not much done over all.
> Aim was limit bouldering on the mood board
Well it definitely tends to bring on performance anxiety, depression and lack of self confidence for me
> MTG: ..... Unassisted one arm hang on BM1000 bottom edge.
Sounds hard! They are smaller than the bm2000 central lower edge, right?
> Sounds hard! They are smaller than the bm2000 central lower edge, right?
Yep - the BM1K outer edges are about the same as BM2K with an AA battery.
That's 8b+/c fingerstrength - good aim Stuart.
One question though - why are you aiming for such a high an-cap (8th rep lattice test score)? 40% would be appropriate for a boulderer, or maybe if you were projecting a sustained hard bouldery route like Mecca.
Current ukc article on Fear contains a link to this Climbing mag article, which I think is really good.
I think there are a few people on here who feel that fear holds them back at times - it's definitely worth a read.
Struggling to find my mojo after being ill. theres two ways to look at last weeks training. One ways says "hey two sessions, that exponential growth on the previous week!" and that's the way I'm choosing to look at it ;)
Hmmm, interesting. I can't remember what my previous best an cap score was but the 40% was broadly just pulled out of thin air. I think at the moment it's about 25% and it's rarely the reason I fail on a route. Perhaps I need to just focus on keeping that roughly proportional to any gains in aerobic fitness. I'll have a look at that and perhaps recalibrate that goal! Thanks.
Thanks for this, really like this quote:
"When you’re prepared and well-practiced, you have no reason to doubt yourself. It’s not about closing your eyes and jumping into the unknown. It’s about having eyes wide open to the dangers around you but knowing that you’re as ready as you can be. Trust in your training and preparedness will give you the required confidence to apply your skills to the task at hand."
Late again... Sorry....
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 4lbs
M - F
S - 30 pushups
S - Rest
Did a little bit of exercise. Lots of family stuff over the weekend, so didn't manage much. I've managed to loose 2lbs, which is great. Just need to keep up a decent start.
> Personally I would recommend Turkish get-ups (you'll have to do some research on form) and standard Kettlebell swings (ie hold with both hands and swing between your legs in a sort of squat and thrust forward). Both exercises seem to me to work the core in a way that other types of resistance training don't- hard to describe but it really feels 'compound' and the dynamicness seems more good than 'cheat-ey' as it does with others. I think it takes a bit of time to get the weight and form right so give it a few goes if you are interested. Like any exercise one man's junk is another man's treasure etc!
> For swings you dont need a high ceiling, for getups you need to be able to reach your arm above your head without touching the ceiling (but that bit isn't particularly dynamic).
> In terms of climbing specificity- I think the swings are probably more specific - the hip thrust section is very reminiscent of chucking for a hold above you. The get-up maybe is good for palming/mantling type motion?! It also has a hip thrust so good for core tension?
Guy - what sort of weight kettlebells do I need for these - is 8-10kg enough? Just one per weight, or two?
Well, you might want to try them out/develop your form with 10kg but I suspect you will want heavier pretty quickly. For get-ups I just started doing 32kg... as a gauge the hardest part of the move is probably the press section (ie like a db bench press). I used 16-20kg for a few weeks to improve form and stabilization but I think more was needed for strength gain. For swings my sweet spot is more like 16kg- these are more about volume than get-ups. Both only need one though.
Turkish get-ups with 32kg?
Adding to Guy’s response.... I used 8kg to begin with and now use 10kg, you might soon want to do heavier but I would start with a weight you are happy with to get the movement and then ramp it up.
32kg for Turkish get-up... Beast!
I do 10kg to TGU and 12kg for KB swings.
Thanks Si. That is a good article. It has involved fear and my hands are now all sweaty!
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