/ FitClub 572
Evening all, hope you all survived the beast from the east and travelled safely.
This week how about everyone contributes a song (title/artist) to the “UKC Fitclub 2018 ARC playlist”? Songs to while away a long and boring skin grind session…
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fitclub_571-679967
Si dH: Did you get out on Font or was it too cold/mental?
guy127917: How was first week of base?
Bones: I think your zones percentages for the trip look good- wha was total duration for that though?
AJM: Workshy looks super! Well done on the 7A+ STG point as well. I take it/hope you didn’t get to dartmoor over the weekend!? (ice tools probably more appropriate)
MFB: Is there a story behind ‘insane rock fall person’?
mrchewy: Welcome back, great to hear your trip was a success. Sounds like you are a man with a plan for summer!!
Powderpuff: Yeah leg raises make me wonder why the world is so obsessed with situps, they feel so much more effective!
AlanLittle: This week’s mix tape is for you…
Cyan: Living on a boat sounds like an exciting change!
Tyler: Great to hear you had a good day out, that’s what it’s all about eh!
MauraLorrissey: Great to see the pull-ups progressing- half way to your goal of 5!
Dandan82: Have you tried handstand shoulder touches and/or handstand press work?
biscuit: If you want some ideas/motivation for diet stuff I’d recommend Matt Fitzgeralds work- this podcast is a good listen https://strengthrunning.com/2017/03/matt-fitzgerald-endurance-diet/
hms: Congrats on the 7b flash!
Ally Smith: I reckon we should be able to do something that week. Good luck on your trip!
Andy Nelson: Congrats on your engagement! Did you make it to North Wales this weekend?!
Climbthatpitch: Looks like a great trip from the photos!
the sheep: Well done on hitting the STG- can you feel your general fitness improving steadily?
wurzel: Nice work, how long are the routes at your local wall?
Ardo: Meant to ask- was there an interesting/funny story behind your ice axe arrest?
leon: Sounds like a good plan to get some inspiration. Keep posting!
Richard Popp: The new UKC site seems to dislike pasting content from another program on your computer, it can be a pain! I guess you need to build your capacity back before doing too much intense work?
Tom Green: Sounds like ideal pre-trip preparation! Gripped since you are so elusive.. no log book stalking possible.
Just Tintin: Bouldering in CO sounds like a good test of acclimatisation!
planetmarshall: Your photos of GotG looked awesome, hope you le
AWOL: The Fasting, mattrm, Stuart William
Shit I've totally forgotten about this for about 2 weeks.
- I made up a new Moonboard problem with all the juggiest holds to actually complete something, and called it "Moonboarding is hard", 6A+. Seems like people actually like it, 7 repeats last time I checked.
- I did 110 kg x 10 deadlifts for a new post-injury PR (injury was in 2016, so I'm just slow). Then later in the week did 90 kg x 8 squats, maybe also a new post-injury PR.
- Climbed ice at Hauktjern, did toprope laps on a WI4+ Nøkkens rike (WI-4) (looks like it was downgraded at the logbook here). I didn't feel like I should try to lead a 37m WI4/WI4+ as my second lead, even though I probably could. Only had like 9 screws with me, felt I should have more to feel psychologically safer. So I did a WI3 variation on the more angled side of the waterfall just to get some leading in. Video of what it looked like here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BfWQoUJjOdX/?taken-by=thefasting
- Didn't do that much besides planning a multi-day alpine trip in Jotunheimen on the weekend.
- A lead climbing session where I attempted some 6b+ and actually got one. Sadly I had warmed up on it slightly a few weeks before, otherwise it would have been an onsight (but it's the gym so who cares). Second go on it anyways.
- Did some bouldering at some point probably, and benched 80 kg x 6 for a nice increase since 80 kg x 3 a month ago.
- Went to Jotunheimen trying to do my STG of Bukkeholstraversen in winter. Ran out of time to do the whole traverse but we made it up Nørdre Bukkehøe (2100 masl) for what might have been the first winter ascent (certainly the first documented winter ascent, no other info about it anywhere, no one I've talked to offline has done it either).
Spent 2 nights sleeping at 1700 masl or so, it was very cold but the Direkt2 works like a charm (besides the extremely fiddly pole set up which sucks so bad with cold fingers). One night was -25C or less with windchill, but much more enjoyable in the tent. Most uncomfortable pee in quite some time though...
Snow conditions were too bad to do the other summits (extremely hard snow and not enough to cover the boulders so we plunged down to our thighs every step we didn't have skis on), we spent too long getting to Nørdre Bukkehøe, and the rest of the traverse was guarded by a steep and exposed icy ridge that we hadn't read about (because no one's been there in winter I guess). With a 17 kg backpack and skis we didn't want to solo it, so we went back down again satisfied with one summit. The ski down was horrible, super hard snow all the way made it very tricky and slow.
Just spending time in the mountains in winter is my goal anyways, I figure if I can do winter ascents regularly in Jotunheimen in -25C (it was -35C with windchill there a few days after we left) then I will be very experienced in the conditions I'll meet on 8000ers and the 7 summits
The view was amazing! https://www.instagram.com/p/Bfq5ba2jhpe/?taken-by=thefasting
- One lead session where I onsighted a 6b and a bunch of 6a+ and 6a. Really starting to consolidate the 6a grade, I feel. Can pretty much warm up on it now. However my gym might be soft compared to outdoors, but it gives me hope for the next season.
- Bouldering session on friday. Flashed my second ever 6B+! Also flashed a 6B. I always have my best bouldering sessions right after an alpine trip for some reason. Could also do 3 out of 5 moves on a 6C on my first go, so new PR seems incoming.
- 3 hour ski trip on the weekend. Didn't have wax so the very steep trail I usually go on was very slow going. Next weekend I'll go for a hillier but longer distance trail, I think that works better with skis. Skiing is way too slow uphill so I can't pick the same kind of trails I do with running. Might be because I'm a horrible skier though.
> planetmarshall: Your photos of GotG looked awesome, hope you le
If that was going to be "Hope you learned something", then the answer is yes
Haha yes it was, didn’t know how to phrase it and got distracted!
> AJM: Workshy looks super! Well done on the 7A+ STG point as well. I take it/hope you didn’t get to dartmoor over the weekend!? (ice tools probably more appropriate)
thanks guy. No, we didn’t make it to Dartmoor - have rearranged for the weekend after Font so have to extend the winter goal time horizon out by a week.
The week started well, got to the wall on Tuesday and had a decent session. I should have trained on Thursday probably but in the faff of Dartmoor/not I just failed to. Ditto Friday.
Then Saturday and today I’ve been ill - fever, sickness, stomach cramps, all sorts of fun. Barely left bed yesterday. Did a bit more today, partly to avoid my birthday not being such a total writeoff and partly because MrsAJM was also ill so I had to do more to take care of the wee one.
possibly climbing next weekend, probably not the weekend after, so running a little short on time for those winter goals given ive got 2 at the top of the pyramid left to take down and FM conditions haven’t really been there of late. Have to see how it goes. Breaking into 7B (or even doing 7A+) in Font on a family holiday should be easy, right? ;)
Mon-always a long day at work, may have waved weights around.
Tue-TCA, reset going on, bouldered about and then got on the circuits, managed three circuits, that is three more than last week.
Wed-Rehab weights and fingerboard, 6x4x3.
Thu-Total Body Conditioning cancelled-phew! Busy with work and snow.
Fri-Rehab weights and fingerboard, 6x4x3.
Sat-Gym-tried the lattice TRX workout, plus warm up. Normal strengthening routine but larger selection of weights allowed me to push it a bit. TRX interesting and more doable than I thought. The pull ups were the hardest, I was doing weighted pulls ups on lapis balls last April/May, struggled to do three in good form. Writing this on Sunday night I think this might be down to muscle memory in part, we will see. Could really feel it later.
Sun-TCA. Finally ticked an annoying black (5-6A) and got some of the next circuit, which is generally quite hard. Then managed 5 circuits.
Later did rehab weights and fingerboard 6x4x5. Also tried some hangs, heading towards 10sec's on bottom Beastmaker 1000 crimp, though I open handed it.
Goals-Short term, I am writing things down and know what I am doing next week, roughly.
Not been near a lead route so no progess there.
> . Breaking into 7B (or even doing 7A+) in Font on a family holiday should be easy, right? ;)
There is so much to choose from in Font, I am sure we can find you something
> Si dH: Did you get out on Font or was it too cold/mental?
Hi Guy, I assume you mean Tetris - unfortunately not, there was way too much snow, i couldn't have got my car to the crag (PS. Font mid week would be awesome, but I don't drive that fast ).
M/LTGs from April: 7B in Font, Eastwood Traverse, Mentalist, Caviar
W: Afternoon off work, ended up indoors due to snow. Did 10 of the blue (v5-7) circuit at the Climbing Unit. Pleased with this, felt like a hard workout.
F: Climbing Unit woodie. Did a mate's 7B and downgraded it to 7A, now feeling guilty (it wasn't, though.)
S: Climbing Unit, couple more blues then the woodie. Did another 7A and worked a 7A+ for a while.
I've decided to ease off the diet slightly by upping my daily calorie intake a bit for a few weeks as I had started to get into a bad habit of sticking to the diet for a couple of days, then binging in an evening. I'll see how it goes over the next couple of weeks. It has also been hard in the cold weather.
Weight this evening is 74.6 kg.
After researching how to do shoulder endurance work last weekend, I then completely forgot about it! Also failed to pick up a Kettlebell all week. I had quite a good week indoor bouldering though.
> I assume you mean Tetris
D'oh, having a dopey week!
STG: Addressing the head game: fall or jump off every time I have a rope on.
Top out on the Big Intimidating Roof sector at Thalkirchen.
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60
T: 40 minutes mobility, shoulders, elbows
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. One of those sessions where you wonder why you even bothered, but they're inevitable from time to time. Press on regardless.
S: Temperature dramatically up from -15 to -5; contemplated going to Kochel for a go at a south facing boulder project I have there, but after a brief look at the webcam opted for Boulderwelt instead. Circuits & weights.
S: Awoke to another dramatic temperature rise, to plus 10 degrees an dbright sunshine. Couldn't resist the temptation to drive out to Kochel, where however I found conditions humid, myself tired (unsurprisingly) and the sequence on my former proj, which I haven't been on for a year, forgotten. So nothing doing, but at least I tried.
Definite loss of momentum. My son is laid up pre-Font by a strained knee from skiing, and my motivation is suffering too from the lack of a training partner.
Did at least discover that one of my local walls has installed an Eva Lopez Transgression board, so was curious to work my way down that for a finger strength benchmark. Was comfortable for 10 seconds plus on 12mm at bodyweight, but then it got suddenly much harder - could barely do 5 seconds on the 9mm.
Better get my mixtape started then: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xELPAsL20Vo
Absolutely! Having never had a naturally strong core, leg raises have helped my body tension enormously.
I would of liked to have done more training this week but I felt rough at times.
Tuesday: climbed 3x v2-3 problems and 5x v3-5 circuit. Finished with a core and push up session.
Thursday: climbed 2 of the v3-5 and 3 of the V4-v6 circuit. Also worked on 2 harder problems. Core and push up session to finish.
Sunday: small core session.
Monday: 45 minute run, max strength session 1
Tuesday: 1 hour stairmaster, 2 hour run
Wednesday: 1 hour run, bouldering sessions up to v5
Thursday: 1 hour stairmaster
Friday: 1:40 run, bouldering session at mile end, up to v5
Saturday: 1:10 run, max strength session 2
benchmarks- 2RM 110kg back squat, 2RM 90kg front squats, 2RM 35kg pullup, 2RM box step up 60kg (form needs work), front lever progression at the tuck lever for 10s on 60s x6
Sunday: 0:50 run zone 1
9:20 total aerobic time, 2 strength sessions, 2 climbing sessions.
A pretty good first structured week back, plenty of volume completed and feeling good. Strength workouts went to plan and I have a good idea of where I am with the lifts I want to progress. I really wanted to drive to south Wales for some ice climbing this weekend but sacked it off in the end for driving safety reasons.
Next week should look very similar just with more aero work.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 4lbs
M - T - Lazy
W - 90 pushups, squats and lunges
T - S - Equally lazy....
S - 90 pushups, squats and lunges
It's been nice in Falmouth. Only a bit of snow, but we wimped out totally cause of the baby, so just spent a couple of days chilling in the flat. But the snow wasn't bad and it'd largely gone by Saturday when we had to drive home. I've finally slept enough not to be feeling utterly awful all the time. Now I'm just back to not having much energy cause I'm a fat lazy slob at the moment. Next week should be good, as I'm off work for a few days as we're on strike at work over pensions (I work at a uni). So I hope to be able to get to the wall a few times.
As for music, I've got two recommendations, both are probably slightly odd. But here we go.
Killer Mike - Reagan - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lIqNjC1RKU
Stan Rogerd - Barrets Privateers - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIwzRkjn86w
There's a whole bunch of sea shanties here which I think are ace for repetitive work outs. I might be alone there... But here's the link - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CuyLbC2TZo
Faithless - Insomnia
Sash! - Encore une Fois
You know when I grew up.
Not sure I would choose them for a work out but enjoyed the sea shanties to a surprising degree!!
Still away, posting on phone, so no restating of goals other than to say this trip was supposed to be providing a few tasty ED routes.
M: woke up in Cham, sorted some stuff in town, late bin up Midi and skied into Abri-Simond with big bags (food, gas etc for three nights).
T: leisurely start after a night at -30ish. Skied in to east face of tacul to find it completely dry. Modica-Noury etc TOTALLY devoid of ice. Got on M6 Solar, as Rockfax says it goes in any condition. Sadly it didn’t go in MY condition! Bailed and skied toured around to try and find a route in decent nick for the next day. Failed. Before going out people had told me nothing was in but I hadn’t believed them (How can there be nothing to climb in a WHOLE mountain range?!?)
W: Decided no point staying up looking at brown rock and black ice. Skied the VB back to Cham. Nice day only partly ruined by massive bags.
T: Cham is dead to me. Au revoir Cham. Bon giorno Cogne. Skinned up the valley to have a look at the ice, got overexcited and dashed back to get the tools. Nice evening of WI3 single pitch
F: Tuborg (WI-4+) Got v pumped seconding first pitch.
S: Decide to try ski ascent if Gran Paradiso. Turned back due to horrible avalanche conditions.
S: Chandelle Levure (WI-4) nice route. A bit hooked out on steep pitch. Skinned up to check out a few other routes. Went up first pitch of Pattinaggio Artistico Direct (WI-5+) to have a closer look at the dry tooling link to the upper ice fall. Skied powder down.
All in all, a fun week but not quite what I’d planned. Dry faces in the high mountains look set to make my STG difficult to achieve. Unless anyone has some good beta or suggestions of ED routes in good condition?
Thanks Guy! They are coming along slowly. Annoying I think I have hurt my finger, so I will have to take it easy climbing this week.
*work on food plan/meal prep to fuel myself properly - Sunday prep done, tick!
*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives) - didn't attempt this week
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point (currently at 14) - top roped a 20
*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - 4 sessions tick!
*1 longer ride per week (>10km) - nope
*Learn how to use my compass/weekend navigational course - booked for this weekend
*100km cycle - either Brisbane to Bay (17th June) - have now entered
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - aiming for Easter
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
*buy a van by the end of 2018
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains (October with Jen) - lead a 20
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
AM: warm up, resistance band ski arms/mountain climbers / push press / single arm kettlebell swings (12kg) / core exercises
AM: Mt Coot-tha hike - 5.8km, 198m elevation, 1hr 3 min
AM: warm up, skipping, push press with dumbbells / sumo squats with barbell, leg raises / sled, rower, step ups / core exercises
PM: Top rope session. Worked some more reds 22/24 range. Feel like I'm making moves that I previously couldn't even attempt. Tried the 'nose' overhung route again... can't get very far on the 21.
AM: boulder session. Completed a few greens, finished a problem that I couldn't get the last move on.
AM: lots of running up and down steps
PM: Indoor climb, worked my 23 project, got all the moves just need to stick it.
AM: attempted to climb at KP, but was massively pissed off to find more than half the crag covered in top ropes. Two separate companies had set up in excess of 30 ropes. Pretty pissed! Only did two climbs on top rope, but I dogged my way up a 20/6a+
Rested in the air-con all day... its ridiculously gross and muggy at the moment.
> planetmarshall: Your photos of GotG looked awesome, hope you learned something
When you're a weekend warrior, opportunities to do stuff as conditions dependent as Scottish Winter don't come up that often, so there's the temptation I think to push yourself onto routes that you may not be quite ready for. More patience needed.
A quiet week this week, a bit of reflection needed to establish some goals.
Fri - Light Z1 workout getting to the pub as was completely cut off by road and rail. Light gym session.
Establish some new goals for the year. Get back into the gym for some strength and conditioning sessions. A couple of Z1 workouts.
Complete 8 week Transition period.
Take Winter 2018-19 off (Possibly Dec,Jan,Feb). Make trip plans.
Thanks Guy - i'll be in touch.
Got home late last night - very glad to say that the missing cat arrived for breakfast, none the wiser to the concern he's caused me for the last week.
Good trip, scuppered by poor weather, which in turn forced us in to a very sub-optimal 4on-1off-4on climbing structure - definitely not conducive to hard RPs.
Cold weather was a bugger too - i climbed in thermals everyday bar one, when just for a change it was damp and foggy.
hms impressed me on Corva de la Felicitat - a route that's very antistyle for someone who's forte is vertical fiddles. No calls for the clip stick, taking falls, nailing a couple of kneebars with aplomb, pushing on despite some deep flappers, and eventually doing the route in 3 sections. Given some better weather i'm certain a 1-hang ascent would have happened pretty early in the trip and then some RPs, and who knows what.
M – 3rd day on, but looking at the super wet forecast, made sense to go big. “Gentle day” at Espadelles. 6b and 6b+ warm-ups with numb hands, then sun came out and 7b, 7a+ OS’s and 7a flash warm-down (last one had hardest moves of the lot – hms did great OS’ing the boulder problem start but fluffed the upper section by following the chalk rather than the holds…)
T – 4th day on! 4 inches of snow whilst trying Sàtiva Patàtica (8a) after a failed OS. Bugger me it’s hard and anti-style. One further tie-in, tweaking beta. Pooped. Amazed we got to climb anything. Sketchy drive back down the valley.
W – Rainy rest day.
T – Masriudoms. Damp 6b+ warm-up. OS attempt at ATP L3 (8a) ended quickly on the crux of the 7c section, with predictably wet holds. Dogged to top of 8a (L3). 2nd go, smashed it despite water flowing down the upper tufa (found a good kneebar rest by 7c chains which helped massively). 7a flash warm-down. E4/5 5c/6a damp death choss.
F – In retrospect, this is the day when I should have rested. My arms were knackered from ATP, but I couldn’t help myself! Tenebres again, found some good beta on Sativa, but when I had a RP attempt it showed that I didn’t have the clipping position right in the roof. Tried a FA link-up of Corva de la Felcitat into Sativa. Fell on Sativa RP crux.
S – Decided to warm-up in the sun after un-forecast rain. 6a+ flash and 7a OS. Put first 3 draws back in then had good RP burn that ended on RP crux by bolt 11 after wrong handing myself in desperation on the only good hold in this section. 2nd RP ended 2 moves sooner. RP attempt on link-up was same result. “Fun” stripping both routes at once…
S – battered, broken and with a pounding sinus headache – gotta smash on though, eh – it’s the last day of the trip!?! Run out 6a warm-up. 7a OS that felt hard, then dogged a 7c roof. Took a comedy fall, aborted another RP, then smashed it. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bf67xuzhnxz Despite pleadings that we needed to head to the airport, convinced hms to belay me on one final route – a great pockety 7a at Can Torxa.
> wurzel: Nice work, how long are the routes at your local wall?
Judging by the half-way mark on a 30m rope, probably up to around 13m. And nice work on your part keeping up with the questions and answers.
Frustrating week as my Scottish climbing weekend flight was cancelled, and didn't climb much indoors as was trying to get work finished before that weekend away.
STG: another 7a indoors or outdoors.
MTG: 7a+ indoors or outdoors.
LTG: 7b indoors or outdoors.
Session 01: 8 routes 6a to 7a, harder ones dogged.
Session 02: Quick fingerboard 7s on 3s off over 2 mins. Three repeats. Plus sit-ups, press-ups.
Session 03: Quick fingerboard 7s on 3s off over 2 mins. Three repeats. Plus sit-ups, press-ups.
Session 04: 8 routes 6a+ to 7a. Didn't get very far with one of the hardest ones.
Plus a Grade II Welsh gully and hillwalk.
the cat came back, the very next day, he thought it was a goner but the cat came back.
(from a very funny little animated short several years ago - see if you can find it, it's worth it)
My first fitclub post. Using this as a way to record my training or lack thereof, and keep myself accountable. Objectives are to:
-help my tweaked lower back muscle recover by doing physio exercises, staying away from climbing for a bit
-get stronger generally by doing crossfit/gymnastics stuff/weight training
-get stronger fingers in preparation for return to climbing by careful hangboard training.
-not drinking too much...
Sun 25th Feb. My first workout on new Beastmaker 1000. Tried the 5A program (12 hangs each consisting of 7* 7s hand, 3 sec rest). Really hard! Failed early in 3rd hang with bodyweight hanging. Then used assistance from chair to complete all hangs. No booze.
Mon. Ran 5.4 miles to work with 8kg pack (clothes, shoes, laptop, book etc). 9.00min per mile. Got a lift home. No booze.
Tues. 40 min total commute on bike. Another Beastmaker 5A workout. Failed around half way through 3rd hang. Did the rest using either a foothold or putting some weight on scales. In the second half of the 11th and 12th hangs I had only around 20-35kg of pulling power. No booze.
Weds. 70min cycle commute. First CrossFit class. This one towards muscle up, front lever, planch press-up, handstand push-ups. Apparently I'm close to handstand press up, and muscle up. Miles away from front lever and planche. No booze.
Thurs. 20min commute. No exercise. Late night boozing (home at 1am). Around 1.5 bottles wine.
Fri. 20min commute. No exercise. No booze.
Sat. 40min cycle. BeastMaker 5A workout. Failed after 4th rep of 3rd hang using bodyweight. After that I stood on scales and tried to keep my pulling power above 40Kg at all times. See Physio. Latish night (hope at 12:00). 3.5 pints beer.
Sun. 2 mile walk with family. 1.5 pints beer.
> the sheep: Well done on hitting the STG- can you feel your general fitness improving steadily?
Cheers Guy, base level of fitness defiantly improving, especially the running. I can now just head off and enjoy a 6 or 7 km run over the fields without it feeling like a workout. Had a bit of a disjointed week gone by what with a poorly daughter and the weather (cycling dint really appeal!)! Week went as follows;
Monday, at home with poorly girl, no activities
Tuesday, 16km ride home, average pace up near the 25kph mark which is good as there is city cycling, dirt track as well as road work involved.
Wednesday, 1km swim
Thursday, 2km swim
Friday, 1km swim at lunchtime and 7km evening run
Saturday, back not feeling good but ran anyway, slow 7km but payed for it as I definitely have twanged something
Sunday, back very much hurt, back on the prescription cocodamol. Fingers crossed it will ease off quickly!
Tune wise one of my favourites on my running play list is Chemical Brothers Star Guitar
Training track choice would be "No sleep till Brooklyn" by the Beasty Boys.
Never fails to give me a boost!
> Dandan82: Have you tried handstand shoulder touches and/or handstand press work?
I do a bit of handstands and handstand press work as part of my warm up, intermediate difficulty ones with feet on a raised box or similar, i'd like to do more but there isn't much space in the Lattice plan to add these in without compromising other stuff at the moment.
The week started off fine and dandy with everything going to plan, then I caught a virus which put me on my arse from Thursday evening until today. I'm back at work but still feeling pretty horrendous so this coming week is going to have to be an easy one, at least to begin with.
M: Core; This is called 'dive team core' so I guess that is a hint to the origin, the full session is 600 core movements plus 10 minutes of plank. I only had to do half the session this time around but even that was incredibly difficult! Not looking forward to attempting the full monty...
T: Indoor Boulder; 7 reps of problem at 80%, 2.5 min rest. 1.5 sets. Picked a couple of problems on the woody that I wouldn't have managed this session with a few weeks back, good progress.
Aero 3 min on 30s off x4 2 sets
W: Aero Fingerboard; 7 on 3 off for 10 minutes on AA pocket at 30% of max hang. This still feels difficult (which I don't think it should) but I reckon it was slightly less agonising than last time.
Flexibility lower body.
T: Conditioning; dumbell press, hanging shoulder depressions, low rows, reverse T, prone IYT, rotator cuff curls.
F-S: Sofabound, bleugh.
I won't bother with goals as I have no expectations for the next week, I just want to ditch the lurgy, so I can be back up to speed as soon as possible.
Thanks Guy. Ally has already pretty much written up the week so I won't waffle for too long. If it had been wall to wall sunshine we would have planned very differently, but the weather very much forced 4 on, 1 off, 4 on onto us. And it was cold - proper numb fingers and hot aches.
M - one of the nicer days. Started very cold but got some sun and we were in a sunny sector. As already reported, 7b flash. Went wrong way on a 7a on-sight else I'd have had that too.
T - Warm-up route just as the snow started. Project 7c, working moves and short sequences.
W - rest day, wall to wall rain.
T - 6b+ & 6c+ flashes but head seriously not in gear. Then 7a onsight. Soft but I'll take the grade due to the choss, mud and rain making it an 'entertaining' experience!
F - back to 7c project. Best day, some long links. Top still troublesome as I'd been unable to work it on Tues as it was wet.
S - warm up on a couple of flat wall fiddly 6cs, then back to project 7c. Really gunning for it but hard move low down kept spitting me off. Power fade, heroic clip rescue mission by Ally.
S - shoulder & wrist both distinctly unhappy. Brief try on a boulder 7b but 4th day on was way too big an ask. 6c by skin of my teeth!
so we made best use possible of the time, given the unfortunate weather, but blocks of 4 days are not the way to get up seriously hard anti-style steep stuff. I now need to write the sequences down whilst still fresh in my mind - 60+ hand moves in 25m, overhanging by about 8m. STEEP!!
I’m sure the deal always used to be that these winter/spring Spanish trips had a guarantee of good conditions included as part of the t&cs! It feels like you’ve had some bad luck.....
> I’m sure the deal always used to be that these winter/spring Spanish trips had a guarantee of good conditions included as part of the t&cs! It feels like you’ve had some bad luck.....
To be fair I don't think they have done too badly. The last Font trip I went on was closer to 4 off / 1 on!
Great effort flashing that close to your limit (only 1 or 1.5 letters below max rp?)
Don't put those negative thoughts in my head! I've spent half my day (off ill) watching Font videos to get my psyche on .
It was this week a year ago that I was there. Hopefully the weather will be more reliable at Easter.
Only 4 weeks to go! Got a growing ticklist?
> It was this week a year ago that I was there. Hopefully the weather will be more reliable at Easter.
> Only 4 weeks to go! Got a growing ticklist?
Well, I think I suffer from a case of the "it all looks good"s. So many problems, so many areas! I need some way to narrow it all down a bit. Either that or I'll just have to write a list for each crag.
Are there places you would like to go to or avoid? I suspect you may have the most solidified preferences out of the team...
Edit: although I have to say Beatle Juice looks like a crazy/cool piece of rock.
An old favourite at a cheerful plod suitable for ARC:
Training didn't really happen this week. Had a couple of boulder sessions though, including checking out Harrow Wall, OMG. Is it possible for a climbing wall to be too big???
Moving Thursday, then in Spain, will report back afterwards. A couple of low 7's including a 7b would be great, a few specific routes in mind.
Beatle Juice looks good, really powerful though, need to be fresh. I pulled on with tweaked elbows 3 years ago and couldn't do a move on it. There are a couple of 7B things at Cuisiniere that look amazing too. Pensees Cachees (f7B) is one.
The only single problem I'm really keen to try specifically is L'Angle Parfait (f7B). Otherwise, I'll find stuff to do where everyone else wants to go. I can't think of any crags where I'm out of things to do!
Edit: but, if you want me to point us at a crag each day with lots of good problems for everyone, I'm certainly happy to do so!
Powerful on ok holds? The edges of the scoops look potentially quite good.
Pensees looks brilliant.
I suspect crag recommendations might be most important for the early days (you won't climb Saturday will you, although we will) given that I assume the classic crags will all be heaving on Easter weekend. Finding the right balance of good but quiet might be key!
Cool, I didn't realise you were arriving earlier. Will think about quieter crags - in early March it's never a major issue...
Our ferry is Friday so will likely be there Friday night ready to climb Saturday
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bznxx12Ptl0&index=8&t=0s&list=LL3EHXKrUT0k-KEat6hez5SQ Dirty euro pop - this was playing lots when i was trying to redpoint Fisheye - worked for JM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4UqMyldS7Q&index=7&t=0s&list=LL3EHXKrUT0k-KEat6hez5SQ Somewhat more relaxed tune which was played lots in the apartment the year before when both me and John did Aspid (8b+) - you just can't get pre-redpoint nerves when you've got the line "pulled out the jammy and killed the poonanny" stuck in your head!
https://soundcloud.com/nickbaskerville/hos-october-mix-2014 Excellent home fingerboarding mix; smashed a few PBs to this! Really gets going 15min and then proper good from 21min onwards
Needless to say, last week there was a bit of a two-way education going on between myself and hms regarding evening playlists; I'd never heard of Bauhaus, so as penance, my final choice...
> I'd never heard of Bauhaus
What !? Kids these days.
That is a decent cover of Ziggy Stardust though. Though you'll be telling me next you don't know it's cover.
Enjoying the tunes!
W/C 26/2/18, (recruitment)
Mo: General walking, 5.4 miles. Bouldering, (15 problems, 40 mins limit bouldering).
Tu: Commuting walk, 8.1 miles. Rest day.
We: General walking, 8.1 miles. Rest day.
Th: General walking, 5.5 miles. Bouldering, (14 problems, 20 mins limit bouldering on woody, 20 min hangboard).
Fr: General walking, 6.3 miles. Rest day.
Sa: General walking, 7.5 miles. 1 Peak District winter route, (rubbish!!).
Su: General walking, 6.2 miles. Rest day.
- weight 10st 7lb/bf 15.9%
A bitty week due to the snow: missed ARC session, but got a winter route in. Feeling stronger, managed to maintain weight and a drop in df, so going ok.
> Ardo: Meant to ask- was there an interesting/funny story behind your ice axe arrest?
Nothing much to it, apart from interesting to put into practice skills/training from courses and reading. Be flexible, was heading to descent plan B, after aborting plan A due to weather. Be prepared, axe stored alpine style and retrieved when I noticed change in snow. Slip, slide, ice axe arrest, back up and walking. Be safe, plan C descent abandoned and headed down into same valley as ascent, even though it added a few miles onto the day.
Bauhaus were the first live band I ever saw, 1983 in the Royal Court Theatre in Liverpool. I was pretty small even for a thirteen year old so I watched the whole thing on the shoulders of a group of (what would now be called) goths who took pity on me. Mind you I wouldn't have chosen that song.......
I've always been pretty passive when it comes to music, I'm not sure I've ever used a music service for long enough to even create a playlist.
The only exception to this was in the early 00's when I thought I was going to be drum and bass's answer to Carl Cox, so if put on the spot, I'd probably put on something like this:
There's a box full of vinyl like that in my loft, who knows, one day it might all be worth almost what I paid for it... ;)
Cheers Guy, muchly appreciated - nothing to add to tunes for training as I hate having music in my ear when I'm up to stuff. I enjoy being alone with my thoughts and if I need a music hit, I'll tune the head into whatever garbage is being played around around me or just sing something inside my cranium.
Snow played havoc with everything this week but walked to work etc and the quads were battered by the end.
Physio shizzle most days obviously.
Wed - Fingers. Messed about on the Crusher rail - this thing is nails for me. Can't do much of anything on it. Fingers are incredibly weak at the moment for some unknown reason.
Fri - 3hr round trip walk to the wall. 1hr autobelay. Climbed up and down, didn't step off.
Sat - 1hr autobelay, up and down. Tried a 2nd stint of 1hr, gave up after 15min as blister started on left palm.
Bit of a hectic week, back to work again and the snow falling meant I had to focus elsewhere. Interesting getting back on the Bodyblade - lost some control with the left shoulder again, I'm thinking a trip to the physio might be a good shout again after Swizzy in early April but I'm definitely getting more movement from the right shoulder now.
ARCing around on the autobelay is doing the trick, the left shoulder is engaging enough now to feel confident on a straight arm. I can't explain how great this feels! It's a bit boring, I really need to do some foot on campusing to help the fingers get stronger but it's far more enjoyable and less frustrating than tying onto a rope indoors. I'm happy.
T: BUK - matched my effort on the black traverse of last week when I got the ought first crux
W & T: Snowed in
F: Short BUK session
S: House hunting in Burnley then soloed Lancashire's best (only) ice route on the way home. Worth doing for the novelty as I missed out last time it froze, also nice to get a tick in the logbook.
Training has gone a bit random again, need to start doing some footing on campusing ready for Kaly. Weight is refusing to shift (more accurately I'm refusing to stop eating cake and chocolate). I did some analysis of the routes redpointed since 2006. It turns out last year was quite good which underlines what a decade of underachievement it has been, still helps with realistic goal setting .
> Bones: I think your zones percentages for the trip look good- wha was total duration for that though?
I wasn’t 100% consistent turning my watch on and off during climbing or when we got back to the car but those percentages are based on roughly 24 hours work - mainly just walking in and out from crags but I believe I recorded the first two days climbing too.
Average time spend in zones over 9 days (24 hours total work) from my Scotland trip (based on watch % which loses 43 mins somewhere) :
Zone 1 - 59% - 845 mins
Zone 2 - 22% - 318 mins
Zone 3 - 16% - 226 mins
Zone 4 - 1% - 12 mins
Zone 5 - 0% - 0 mins
I felt very fatigued during my first week back after Scotland - I didn’t have a rest week but I definitely didn’t feel on top of my training.
Transitional phase - week 6 summary:
Energy levels - pretty low
Recovery - could have done with more
Hydration - good
Aerobic activity - 280 mins (87 mins less than planned)
Zone 1/2 (walk/running) time - 180 mins (97 mins less than planned)
Aerobic climbing - 0 mins
Climbing sessions - 1 (planned 2)
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength and core sessions - 2
Transitional phase - week 7 plan:
Aerobic activity - 367 mins
Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stepper) time - 277 mins
Climbing sessions - 2
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength (and core) sessions - 2
Tuesday: 70 mins stair master (every week I have been calling this the stepper - it is not a stepper!). Core warmup and then just one set of strength.
Wednesday: 110 mins zone 1 walking fast to and from climbing. Then a great boulder session. Managed to do most of a lot of pinks as they seem to suddenly be a lot easier. When I say most it is because I have suddenly re-developed a weird desire not to go to the very top hold. Apparently it is just 1 foot too far to fall.
Friday: 9.2miles run, 100 mins - av hr 175, max hr 186 - 59% z4, 38% z3, 3% z1/2. Bouldering session at mile end - good, fun session up to V4.
Saturday: Gym - core warmup and then one set of strength. Max 8.75kg pull-up 1 rep.
To climb a big wall - El Cap
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead 30 x VS trad routes
Lead 5 HVS trad routes
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
Run a trail half marathon
To complete the TFTNA training plan starting with the 8 week transition phase
Goals for Australia in September tbd
To enjoy lead climbing, maybe top-rope a little more on harder grades to take some pressure off and have fun
Fall practice each rope session
To plan my week every Sunday - nope
To keep a record of benchmarks in climbing and gym work
To keep an eye on my plan for the week so that I make sure I get in all my zone 1
Quite late on this week's update. Funeral planning. The vicissitudes of life eh? Last week engaged, Thanks for the congrats everyone, this week family bereavement. (And in terms of the sad news, t'was my 98 y.o. Gran, passed peacefully in sleep after a very good innings, so celebration of her life rather than mourning her loss
@Bones - sounds like we have similar goals, and that we both suffer from 'last move phobia' at the boulder wall. May be we should include getting over that ion our STG.
@Guy - turned back on Friday night heading to Snowdonia after witnessing too many crashed on the roads. Maybe I'm getting more sensible as I get older :-/ Did go up on Saturday though and had a Sunday and Monday in the hills...
From previous post: statement of intent:
STG : April - Le Flipper Font 6B (not the sit start)
MTG: Aug - Swim 1km open water
MTG : July 31st (hut booked) Matterhorn via Hornli (or similar objective depending on weather)
a.m. zone 1 stepper - 1h:30m
a.m. Gen strength workout. Solid.
30 min zone one commute
p.m. 30 mins warm up bouldering, then joined london mtn club and nearly got 6b+, two attempts, short route. Then flashed 6a. Both top rope. Both in approach shoes
30 min Z1 commute home
a.m. Z1 commute 30 minutes
p.m. Z1 commute 30 minutes
a.m. nowt -snowmagedden!
p.m. nowt -snowmagedden!
a.m. nowt -snowmagedden!
a.m. Gen strength
am. 10 hours march with Yr Gribben ridge scramble,Glyn Fach, Glyn Fawr and down via lake and ice stream. good winter conditions, short roped sections for practice with JWeeks. Crampon picking rock sections. Wow, out of practice on all this
pm see abve
Training slightly impacted by snow and ice - commute not feasible, weekend hill days cut short.
Just a quick one from so I can say I've posted. It has been a hectic week
Attempted to 're test my alpine combine twice last week and failed both times. On the Monday my knee from the beginning felt strange. Half way through it was in screaming pain so thought best leave this.
On the Sunday I tried again but could feel I was tired from the start. (I had done a decent walk post holing through snow and then cleaned about 4 ton of snow off my farther in laws drive on the saturday). Again half way through and called it a day.
M - failed alpine combine teat
T - Run 20.47km, 8:47 min per km, 497 meters accent
W - indoor climbing to 6b
T - max strength session followed by a run, 13.8km, 8:52 min per km, 252 meters accent
F - rest
S - hike with full pack. 18km, 1000 meters accent. Not a foot print to be seen around the South Wales valleys it was lovely. Then cleaned farther in laws drive way
S - another failed retest of my alpine combine
Thanks Guy - a quick one now and I’ll do that analysis next week (aka this afternoon).
M - coaching, fingerboard and a potter
T - recce HarroWall for WCS18 - bloody hell that’s a big exciting wall. Hoping I’ll actually get to climb there on further recces!
W - T general training failure as we finished the ORG report.
F - climbing Unit greens (either they’re harder than normal or I’m exceptionally weak or both...) and last comp set.
S - wirksworth WBL. I missed two sets when I was away so probably looking at second unless something insane happens with last couple of sets
S - climb unit - working harder comp problems and circuit
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